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Holdbrooks posted:Be sure to add ~$200 for a bell housing to that cost as well, that won't be included I'm sure. This great. Thank you! And good call on the bell housing. I should ask about that. I got an email response from Tick. He confirmed that their level 1 transmission would be $1,999 shipped, but recommended a level 2 tranny instead as it's rated for 600whp over the standard GM rating of 450 ft lbs. That would be around $2,400 shipped. If I have to start adding a bell housing and shifter to that, then the Magnum is starting to look like the way to go. Plus he said the wait time is currently 6 to 8 weeks since cores are getting difficult to come by. Where did you go for yours Holdbrooks? I have seen them online in the $2,800 range before. I was really hoping to not spend so much on the tranny, but I guess I can save for a while. My last option might be to try to locate a cheap LT1 tranny and have them rebuild that while swapping the front plate and input shaft. Still probably won't be much cheaper than the Magnum at that rate.
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Dec 7, 2012 19:22
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I bought a kit from hurst and got the SFI bellhousing because I like my legs if the twin plate decides to let go. It is expensive but its rated at 700ft/lbs and I haven't heard or people breaking them. I justified spending 4x the cost of the truck since it will come out and go in my next project when I build a real old truck in the future. The mazda is really a test bed for all my automotive ideas.
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Dec 7, 2012 19:46
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This may have been covered already but there is a sweet white bricklin in hobo with a shotgun. I just watched it on Netflix and it sounded like a jet every time it drove up.
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Dec 8, 2012 13:38
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Holdbrooks posted:This may have been covered already but there is a sweet white bricklin in hobo with a shotgun. I just watched it on Netflix and it sounded like a jet every time it drove up. Just hear the crowd. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcYf64aKDJo
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Dec 8, 2012 14:17
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I have a t56 I am looking to get rid of out of a 94 z28. Email me at carboy44 at gmail if you are intrested. I'm in socal so I can even deliver.
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Dec 8, 2012 21:57
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rowebot44 posted:I have a t56 I am looking to get rid of out of a 94 z28. Email me at carboy44 at gmail if you are intrested. I'm in socal so I can even deliver. Thanks for the offer. I got your PM, I'm just waiting to hear back from the shop that would be doing the rebuild to see how much it will all cost. I'll let you know asap. So after 3 weeks I finally got a couple hours to spend on the car. There's just never enough time in the week... Clutch and brake pedal assembly from the '74 Javelin I won on eBay.  Installed! They went in much easier than I thought they would, and they fit really well.  Driving position. I was afraid I'd have to bend them to the left to clear the gas pedal, but my size 12 shoe fits without touching, so I think it should be ok.  Here's how they are connected. I have to figure out where and how to mount the master cylinder.   Next I wanted to drop the gas tank, but ran out of time. Rear bumper off.  I thought for sure I'd find some rust, but I got lucky.  The tube to the right here is the gas filler. The stock tank is around 11" tall on the back side and 14" on the front. There's about a half inch of room between the floor of the trunk and the top of the gas tank, so I'm going to need to figure out what size fuel cell will fit with a top feed for the filler tube in that space.  Exhaust dropped.  Then I ran out of time. gently caress. I guess that's it for this week. 
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Dec 9, 2012 03:52
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Of course with my luck this car was parked 31 years ago with a full tank of gas. What the hell do I do with a shitload of old gas? There's still a ton in the tank after filling a huge bucket. I'll have to grab my gas tanks from my office and fill them up, but then what?
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Dec 10, 2012 00:33
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BoostCreep posted:Of course with my luck this car was parked 31 years ago with a full tank of gas. What the hell do I do with a shitload of old gas? There's still a ton in the tank after filling a huge bucket. I'll have to grab my gas tanks from my office and fill them up, but then what? Burn it off. Most of the aromatics will be long gone, so you're basically looking at something with an octane rating of 50, a very high water content and no top-end lubricity there. If you could make it start reliably, it'd still work great in a flathead B&S. vv You could probably burn it off through a blow-lamp; because of the high combustion temperature you shouldn't be irritating anyone. Oil recyclers should be OK with accepting it too, just ask a few. Failing that, just take out an advert on Craigslist for antique gasoline. Who knows, maybe one of those morons who deliberately rust their bonnets (hoods) will buy it because it's leaded and therefor HAS to perform better. IPCRESS fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 10, 2012 |
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Dec 10, 2012 00:45
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Falkenbok posted:Burn it off. Most of the aromatics will be long gone, so you're basically looking at something with an octane rating of 50, a very high water content and no top-end lubricity there. If you could make it start reliably, it'd still work great in a flathead B&S. I was going to say. That'd be fine for mowers still. Hell I used my mowers to help get rid of some old diesel I had. As long as there is some petrol in there they still run fine.
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Dec 10, 2012 00:47
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I live in the middle of Los Angeles, so starting a gasoline fire will probably get me arrested. Is there another option? I know oil change places will take old oil, but I've never had to dump 10 gallons of gasoline before.
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Dec 10, 2012 00:49
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You probably should just call around some oil change places or the parts store and see what they suggest. I'm not used to problems like that. I dump old fuel in the driveway or the firepit and burn it 
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Dec 10, 2012 00:56
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BoostCreep posted:I live in the middle of Los Angeles, so starting a gasoline fire will probably get me arrested. Is there another option? I know oil change places will take old oil, but I've never had to dump 10 gallons of gasoline before. craigslist free, and see 10 million goofs email you in 5 minutes.
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Dec 10, 2012 00:57
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Do you have a local household waste collection facility? There has to be one in LA. They'll take that stuff.
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Dec 10, 2012 00:59
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If you were any closer I'd gladly take it, my M54A2 gives zero fucks about what I feed it so long as it's liquid, somewhat flammable, and under 85 octane. I'm actually supposed to throw a few quarts of motor oil in the tank if I run it on pump gas. So what I'm saying is find a guy in your area with an old multifuel military truck. He'll get 50 miles out of it. If you're going to be out toward Apple Valley anytime soon, 100dollarman is out there, he'd probably gladly take it.
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Dec 10, 2012 01:03
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I'd love an old multifuel engine in a vehicle. It'd be worth my while to take a trip to Canberra just so I could chuck laps of the parliament house burning old diff oil to get my money's worth out of the carbon tax paid.
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Dec 10, 2012 01:13
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Take it to a local fire hall and they should be able to dispose of it for you (but in reality they'll just take it into the back and burn it while giggling and exposing themselves to the flame).
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Dec 10, 2012 07:26
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Gas tank out. And there is plenty of room for a fuel cell in there.  I'm running out of things to do to the car without buying new parts. I still need to strip the other door and get them media blasted, but I want to buy the transmission and other mechanical stuff before tackling the body.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:46
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Is that plywood or particle board up there?
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Dec 16, 2012 21:50
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MiniFoo posted:Is that plywood or particle board up there? Fiberglass. The entire body is fiberglass. Edit: It does look like particle board in that pic though.
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Dec 16, 2012 21:51
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it is so strange seeing an AMC 20 rear diff in something other than a jeep or Eagle.
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Dec 16, 2012 22:22
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I decided to get the engine in and running NA before worrying about the turbo build. One step at a time. This means I am going to install the fuel cell and run gas in it with an external inline pump like a walbro or something else cheap with enough juice to run a stock 4.8L engine now, and swap it for probably a Bosch 044 pump pushing e85 later. That means I need to set up the fuel system now to easily accomodate the switch to e85 down the road. So here's where I am with this fuel system. Fuel cell: The fuel cell has to be plastic due to the corrosive nature of e85. I want it to have a sump, sending unit, and be able to be filled remotely. It also can't have foam, due again to e85. From what I'm reading, a gravity fed external Bosch 044 pump should be able to support ~850hp. Let's hope that's right because I won't have a way to install an internal feeder pump inside the cell. This seems to be the only tank available within a reasonable price range that fits the bill (and the space under the trunk): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-205-016-01/overview/ As long as I use this kit to reach the fuel filler at the license plate: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-300-001-20/overview/ Fuel lines I'm going to run -10AN braided SS lines from the pump to the rails, then the regulator, then return to the tank. The problem I'm running into is that I can't find a fuel cell with -10AN outlets. The largest I can find is -8AN unless I want to spend like $1,300 on a fuel cell. So, I assume 8 will work between the tank and the pump? Or will -8AN flow enough e85 to the rails for 700hp? Does anyone have any input here? I've been researching this part like mad and can't find any decent answers. When I search on LS1tech, the most common answer to all the threads is "Search NOOB". Not very helpful. I haven't decided on a fuel regulator yet, but will probably go with an Aeromotive since they have a great reputation even though they are incredibly expensive. Fuel injectors Fuel Injector Connection has 127lb high impedance injectors for $900. That seems to be about the best deal I can find to feed e85 at 700hp. http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=11 I'm hoping the stock fuel rails will flow enough, but there are relatively cheap options out there to upgrade if needed. I still have to see if I can get by with the truck intake or if I need to use the LS1 intake to clear the hood. That will change how I go about the fuel system once it gets into the engine bay. What am I missing? This is all very new to me so I'm learning as I go.
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Dec 20, 2012 05:29
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Falkenbok posted:Burn it off. Most of the aromatics will be long gone, so you're basically looking at something with an octane rating of 50, a very high water content and no top-end lubricity there. More like an octane rating of 150.
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Dec 20, 2012 07:17
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-8 should be enough. To save money on lines you can use stainless pipe down the bottom of the car and weld fittings onto the ends. You also don't need expensive -an stuff for the return because there is no pressure. E85 safe fuel line and standard hose barbs will do it and save you a ton of cash. There are a number of ways to setup the cell and pumps. If you are going to be driving the car on a race track you want to ensure there is fuel under high g loads. Usually you would have a baffled box or something surrounding the pickup or a surge tank. If not you can just have a single main pump that is gravity fed. Still, if you have that cell and are pulling fuel from the bottom front it's going to be pretty easy to starve the pickup during acceleration. Installing it at a slight angle would help. To max out those injectors you will need dual bosch -044s. A single Bosch -044 will flow about 300 lph depending on your pressure. On e85 that will support somewhere over 500hp. So with two you will have the right amount of pump and injector to make well over 1000hp. You would need a huge single pump from fuellabs or wheldon to handle that much. I think the fittings on a bosch are -6, so you would want a Y fitting that merged them into a something bigger. Also, I should be able to get a lot of this stuff through my distributors. I'll check around tomorrow.
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Dec 20, 2012 10:27
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BoostCreep posted:
This is way over my head, but make sure to check with the manufacturer that the plastic used in that fuel cell is ok to use with e85. High ethanol fuel has been known to cause softening and swelling/deformation of plastic tanks on motorbikes which leads to cracking or splitting in some cases.
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Dec 20, 2012 12:05
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jamal posted:-8 should be enough. Thanks for the advice! I was thinking about running stainless lines for the length of the car. I'll definitely look into that. This car with it's 70's era leaf springs will not see much in terms of lateral g forces. It will see quite a bit of time at a drag strip and street use though. That's why I was planning on getting a fuel cell with a sump and angling it backwards so fuel will feed itself into the pump under acceleration. I have a thought. I'll need an external pump to set the engine up to run on gas at first. If I get a pump that is good at sucking to feed the stock injectors, I could in theory retain that pump when I switch to e85 and use that to feed the Bosch 044 correct? Since that pump is great at pushing and bad at sucking, having the lower power pump to suck fuel from the cell and feed it might work? And thank you for checking with your distributors. That is awesome. I won't be buying the e85 gear right now, but the fuel cell, fuel pump for NA operation, and lines will be happening now for sure. Linedance posted:This is way over my head, but make sure to check with the manufacturer that the plastic used in that fuel cell is ok to use with e85. High ethanol fuel has been known to cause softening and swelling/deformation of plastic tanks on motorbikes which leads to cracking or splitting in some cases. It's way over my head too. I've just been doing a shitload of research and reading. I'm making a lot of assumptions and hoping people will correct me if I'm on the wrong path. I will look into the fuel cells though. Good point.
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Dec 20, 2012 23:27
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BoostCreep posted:I have a thought. I'll need an external pump to set the engine up to run on gas at first. If I get a pump that is good at sucking to feed the stock injectors, I could in theory retain that pump when I switch to e85 and use that to feed the Bosch 044 correct? Since that pump is great at pushing and bad at sucking, having the lower power pump to suck fuel from the cell and feed it might work? Your sucking pump would probably just turn into a restriction once it meets it's flow rate. And re. the fuel cell. If you put a sump at the rear it's going to be hanging pretty far down no? It looks like in the picture the factory tank angles up towards the rear of the car.
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Dec 20, 2012 23:50
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Depends how you size them. A walbro 255 for example with no backpressure (ie feeding a main pump or surge tank) will flow pretty much exactly the same as a bosch working against 50psi. However, there's no real need for a lift pump unless you have a surge tank to fill. I would probably just run both bosch pumps straight off the cell, and have a circuit to turn on the second on only under high throttle opening. Constantly circulating 1000hp worth of fuel for a daily driver is overkill and will just heat up the fuel.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:06
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obso posted:Your sucking pump would probably just turn into a restriction once it meets it's flow rate. Wouldn't the sucking pump still supply fuel faster to the Bosch than gravity? That is if it's sucking fuel from the tank as opposed to fuel just funneling into it. The fuel cell I linked above has a 2" sump built into it. The stock gas tank is tucked pretty high in the car. I think I should have enough space. The tank does angle up, but the rear bumper hangs quite a bit lower. Good point though. I'll take more measurements soon.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:25
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BoostCreep posted:Wouldn't the sucking pump still supply fuel faster to the Bosch than gravity? That is if it's sucking fuel from the tank as opposed to fuel just funneling into it. Yes, to a point. But after it meets it's flow rate (or however much volume it can move wide open with no resistance) it can't flow any more (it's little rotary pump is spinning as fast as it can) and at that point becomes a restriction. Like jamal said, if this pump is big enough to flow the amount of fuel you are going to need once you put your bigger pumps in then it will work fine as a lift pump. But even a walbro 255 is only going to be able to flow ~300lph when used like this. Any more flow than that and it will be a hindrance. Edit: you can get an aeromotive a1000 for what 2 boschs cost. Not sure if they are better at sucking than the boschs or not. I have a friend that runs one with a fuel cell on his 10 second silverado without issues. obso fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Dec 21, 2012 |
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Dec 21, 2012 00:35
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Holdbrooks posted:This whole headache is why I bout a brand new t56 magnum, less hassle and everything comes with it, bolts, harnesses, yolk, adjustable shifter, mount, etc. and I could pick the ratio for that sweet overdrive. I'm in the middle of transmission research hell and have a question for you Mr. Holdbrooks. You mentioned your transmission came with all this stuff, but all the Magnums I'm seeing don't have a yolk, or sensors or harnesses. Am I not looking in the right place? Where did you buy yours from if you don't mind me asking? So far I'm seeing this: T56 Magnum $3,006.00 shipped from Summit or $3,033 from Jegs. Sensors: ~$120 Yoke: $150 Bell housing: ~$250 Total just to bolt the transmission to the engine, not including clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, or TO bearing or hydraulics, etc : ~ $3,500 Somehow I underestimated the price of the transmission on this build. I never thought getting the car to shift would cost as much as the car itself.
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Jan 5, 2013 05:37
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BoostCreep posted:I'm in the middle of transmission research hell and have a question for you Mr. Holdbrooks. You mentioned your transmission came with all this stuff, but all the Magnums I'm seeing don't have a yolk, or sensors or harnesses. Am I not looking in the right place? Where did you buy yours from if you don't mind me asking? Oops, I thought I had linked you a while back. I bought mine from Hurst driveline. Just call them up and talk to them to place your order, they were super helpful and can answer any question you have. I was really impressed with the completeness of the kit I bought from them and their customer service that I would reccomend them to anyone. this is what I bought: $3490 with the SFI spec bellhousing to my door.  Edit: while I'm at it I bought my clutch and aluminum flywheel kit from tick performance. McLeod RXT Street Twin LS1/LS6/LS2/LS3/LS7 Clutch Kit (horsepower capacity: 1000) 6932-07 1 $1,289.99 USD $1,289.99 USD And the slave was like $60 from autozone. And I gave you the parts list for the master and lines from speedway motors in my other post. All in all its around $4900 to get everything you need to have a propper 6spd trans for a 1000hp ls motor swap. ...I think after 6 edits I fixed all the iPhone out of this post. Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Jan 5, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 09:48
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Holdbrooks posted:Oops, I thought I had linked you a while back. I bought mine from Hurst driveline. Just call them up and talk to them to place your order, they were super helpful and can answer any question you have. I was really impressed with the completeness of the kit I bought from them and their customer service that I would reccomend them to anyone. Thank you, thank you! Now I need to decide if I want to put all that money on my credit card or pay cash for a built 4L60e. $4,900 vs. $1,650 is a pretty big difference.
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Jan 6, 2013 02:54
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BoostCreep posted:Thank you, thank you! Now I need to decide if I want to put all that money on my credit card or pay cash for a built 4L60e. $4,900 vs. $1,650 is a pretty big difference. If your are going auto get a 4l80e that's the one that will live with high power.
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Jan 6, 2013 03:09
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Agreed. A T56 and all the trimmings costs $4900, a built 4L60e and a T56 to replace it costs $6550 
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Jan 6, 2013 07:50
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Holdbrooks posted:If your are going auto get a 4l80e that's the one that will live with high power. I read that the 4l80e is a lot bigger and I'm worried about clearances. There are several aftermarket builders that claim 700-800 torque capacity and come with warranties out of the 4l60e. Not that I'm married to a particular transmission, I just want to drive this car without putting me massively in debt.
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Jan 6, 2013 19:48
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Holdbrooks posted:Oops, I thought I had linked you a while back. I bought mine from Hurst driveline. Just call them up and talk to them to place your order, they were super helpful and can answer any question you have. Well, it turns out Hurst is in California, so I'll be charged about $500 in sales tax. To avoid that I'm going to try going through Summit to order everything tonight. I decided on the Magnum. I don't want to set it up as auto now and then have to redo everything later on. I'll just have to be ok with this project taking longer to complete with the price of the tranny and related bits being much higher than expected. Thanks for all your help!
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Jan 10, 2013 00:41
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BoostCreep posted:Well, it turns out Hurst is in California, so I'll be charged about $500 in sales tax. To avoid that I'm going to try going through Summit to order everything tonight. I decided on the Magnum. I don't want to set it up as auto now and then have to redo everything later on. I'll just have to be ok with this project taking longer to complete with the price of the tranny and related bits being much higher than expected. Weak, I almost bought one up in Phoenix but ran into the same thing. Who claims their Internet purchases on the tax form anyway. I decided the same thing on the truck, I only had $50 in a rebuilt 4l60e and converter, but at least sold it for $350.
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Jan 10, 2013 06:22
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Holdbrooks posted:Weak, I almost bought one up in Phoenix but ran into the same thing. Who claims their Internet purchases on the tax form anyway. What made you choose the wide ratio transmission? I'm ready to pull the trigger but I'm having trouble deciding between the two. I know I'm massively over thinking this, but I don't want to order the wrong one for my situation. Wide: 2.97 2.10 1.46 1.00 0.74 0.50 Close: 2.66 1.78 1.30 1.00 0.80 0.63 The stock gears of the Bricklin's AMC 20 have a 3.15 ratio from what I can find. Of course I will probably change this eventually anyway when I get to figuring out the LSD options. The car will be used primarily for the street but will also see plenty of passes at the drag strip with a 7k redline. I punched some numbers into online calculators and I'm finding that if I go with the wide ratio, 6th gear would have me at around 1,500rpm at 75mph which sounds pretty low, especially when the turbo goes on. However, I like the 2.97 first gear compared to the 2.66 of the close ratio. But then again, once the turbo does go on I'm worried about just shredding the tires in first gear with the 2.97, especially if I end up going with something like 3.73 gears later. Tremec calls the close ratio their "road course" option and the wide ratio their "street/strip" option. I'm leaning towards the wide ratio right now and going with a more mild differential regear later, but I can only do so much research on my own before I come to people with more experience than myself. So I guess my question is pretty simple. Wide or close?
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Jan 10, 2013 08:54
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UF posted this in his thread: http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/497445-ls1-t56-swap-s13-mounts-rad-driveshaft-400whp.html Kinda cheap for the whole thing, but definitely not the same as buying new for the tranny.
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Jan 10, 2013 09:46
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BoostCreep posted:What made you choose the wide ratio transmission? I'm ready to pull the trigger but I'm having trouble deciding between the two. I went with the wide since it won't be use for a road course ever, and it is essentially a 5 speed with a corvette 6th. Close is nice to have the proper rpm on corner exit at various speeds but is a bit of a pain around town. My motor ycle is a perfect example, I don't need to shift 6 times on the way up to 45mph around town. If you plan on drag racing you want to shift less, even a fast rear end shift will cost ~0.2 second on your ET. Additionally you won't need a lot of help from gearing with the power from a turbo v8. There is so much more power out of boost compared to a 2.0l turbo and won't need 4600 rpm to spool a 62mm. Plus swapping the gears in the the diff is much easier than the trans, not to mention that you stock rear end like mine won live long at the power levels we are going for. Fyi: My dads srt8 challenger happily cruises at 1500 rpm on the interstate, and that is a 600000lb mopar the size of a small country.
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Jan 10, 2013 10:06
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