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Got the tie rod nut loosened a few minutes ago in a fit of blind rage.  Edit: All sorted, alignment this arvo. General_Failure posted:INOX is the poo poo. I'm considering buying one of the bottles of it rather than the aerosol. Yeah, it's brilliant, I've been using it on ancient pushbike parts for years, it stops rust dead. Lurch fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 02:27
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General_Failure posted:STR, your car is begging you for help. I know I said it before but timing chain failures of any kind will seriously ruin your day. Damnit I miss the Magna. Comfortable car but a chain issue killed it. Sure I was actually offered a free motor but I wasn't able to go get it I finally have the money to have a friend's shop tackle it; if the engine bay was a bit roomier I'd do it myself, but I can't even get the timing cover bolts out without removing the motor mounts and moving the engine to one side a bit (in addition to tearing out the power steering pump, which is buried under the intake manifold.. and the PCV system, equally buried). It'll probably get done next week.
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Jan 2, 2013 07:05
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Yanked the ABS pump from my '89 RX-7 TII a few months ago because it finally developed the dreaded brake fluid leak issue. I finally got around to tearing apart the spare failed units I bought to figure out how to rebuild the pumps, because no one seems to rebuild the pumps or sell a kit. Turns out, it looks like all the pumps, including mine, leak from the same location, and the two o-rings in that location always look like they experience heat failure (which seems logical, since the pump sits right over the turbo for some reason). So I think two cheap replacement o-rings I'm ordering tomorrow and some stick on reflective heat shielding tape will fix everything for a long time.
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Jan 2, 2013 07:25
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Pulled my rear wheel bearings on my Jetta TDI, found out the nut that holds the bearing in was loose on both sides, the only thing holding it together was the cotter pin, so I re-greased it and torqued it back down.General_Failure posted:INOX is the poo poo. I'm considering buying one of the bottles of it rather than the aerosol. Where can you pick this stuff up? CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 21:11
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CommieGIR posted:Pulled my rear wheel bearings on my Jetta TDI, found out the nut that holds the bearing in was loose on both sides, the only thing holding it together was the cotter pin, so I re-greased it and torqued it back down. Am I the only person just a little bit alarmed here? Upon finding something like that I'd suspect that the bearings were worn to the point that the nut came loose.
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Jan 2, 2013 22:37
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CommieGIR posted:Pulled my rear wheel bearings on my Jetta TDI, found out the nut that holds the bearing in was loose on both sides, the only thing holding it together was the cotter pin, so I re-greased it and torqued it back down. Good question. Even in my tiny town I can think of two places straight off. The hardware store and the motorbike/mower/tool/rural/industrial/hose/fastener/etc. catch-all store. It's just something sitting on the shelf, not a special item. The good thing about it is it's available in aerosols and plastic bottles of varying sizes. I suspect it's a PB Blaster equivalent, although as I have never owned PB blaster I can't comment on its rust conversion ability. Now I think of it, INOX may have an Aussie flag in it's logo. Their site is borked but here's some info on an online store. https://www.bolt.com.au/inox-spray-300g-p-7577.html What I'd like to know is if I can use it on rust pitted chrome to clean up a bike. Anyway what I did today was a pre-drive check on the Fairlane because it's a medical travel day  Just the usual. Coolant, washer water, LR tyre low. But some horrid little beastie has been chewing on the spark plug leads! Did all I could and wrapped the affected areas in electrical tape. When all this xmas / new years BS blows over I'm going to be shunting an order for RockAuto over here with a bit of help. Yes I know they post internationally but the premium on that is organ trade worthy. edit: also I spent an hour trying to get a wheelchair to fit in the Fairlane. It Doesn't loving Fit. The last one I had to rent was an interference fit. Glad they didn't look hard at it when I returned it. I am so loving sick of this car not meeting our needs. edit yet again. Bonus points if you import INOX and use it on a Miata. No gently caress that's an MX5. Nevermind. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 22:42
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EightBit posted:Am I the only person just a little bit alarmed here? Upon finding something like that I'd suspect that the bearings were worn to the point that the nut came loose. Its a weird setup, the bolt just pushes against a washer that holds the bearings on the race. You torque it down to 10 ft lbs, and then make sure the washer can move.
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Jan 2, 2013 23:05
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That's exactly how it went together on my old Polo/Ibiza, the Haynes manual doesn't specify a torque but states something like "torque it until you can just push the washer around with a screwdriver."  I did come across one loose nut when I came to change a rumbling bearing but I chalked it down to the bearing taking a poo poo, I'd driven it far, far too long on it already. *E* poo poo I did today, ordered a set of injectors, seals and hard fuel lines for my Peugeot to try and solve a non-start issue. The PO had been cracking a fuel line off one injector every time he went to start it and I've just been giving it shots of brake cleaner down the intake to get it going. I'm sorry car, I know I've been bad, it'll all be better soon. 
jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 23:14
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jammyozzy posted:That's exactly how it went together on my old Polo/Ibiza, the Haynes manual doesn't specify a torque but states something like "torque it until you can just push the washer around with a screwdriver." The cover for the nut holds onto the cotter pin and is supposed to keep the bolt from un-torquing. But I was a little worried about it, but it seems to work find. I was looking at replacing the bearing thinking it had gone bad, but I took it with me and compared the old bearing with the new one...and it was exactly the same. It was just loose I suppose
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Jan 2, 2013 23:19
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I have used both PB Blaster and INOX, but for fairly different nut-loosening jobs, so it's not a fair comparison. Having said that, the INOX worked fantastically well, just one application and the nut spun off like it was new. The PB had a harder job, I used it on some very rusty brake-bleed screws but ended up giving it to the shop to replace the calipers instead so it's not like the PB failed so much as was redundant. Also, INOX is some kind of plant-oil based (can't remember off the top of my head), whereas PB is apparently derived from the leftovers of the leftovers at the bottom of the waste pile at a crude-oil refinery. That might or might not affect your cancer risk associated with using either. I doubt I can take my can of INOX with me when I go back to Canada, airplanes don't much like pressurized aerosol cans.
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Jan 3, 2013 08:48
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ExecuDork posted:I have used both PB Blaster and INOX, but for fairly different nut-loosening jobs, so it's not a fair comparison. Having said that, the INOX worked fantastically well, just one application and the nut spun off like it was new. The PB had a harder job, I used it on some very rusty brake-bleed screws but ended up giving it to the shop to replace the calipers instead so it's not like the PB failed so much as was redundant. Well, I surely learned something today. You could probably just buy some online and get it shipped. For once I don't feel like Aussies got the short end of the stick.
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Jan 3, 2013 09:14
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My shocks were all original (180,000km) and badly leaking. For the cost of replacing the shocks alone, I got a new set of lowering springs, shortened shocks, new strut top bushes and bearings, and new fastners. Front:  Rear:  How it sits now:  It's lower, looks meaner, and holy poo poo does it handle better... Feels sporty and corners nearly flat instead of pitching and rolling like it used to. The rear end doesn't squat under hard acceleration anymore. It's also not so low that it scrapes on speed bumps and driveways. Utterly chuffed with how this has turned out, it's a massive improvement all around.
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Jan 3, 2013 09:23
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/\/\/\ Nice. I've been mildly worried about my BMWs rear shocks and springs since I bought it, when I get back I'm going to look into doing something similar. Was it a particularly difficult job? Did you do it by yourself, or have a friend to help you?General_Failure posted:For once I don't feel like Aussies got the short end of the stick.
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Jan 4, 2013 13:54
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Scrapped it!  One less dented, rotted third gen Dodge Ram Van with a failing transmission on the road. Good riddance. And then there were four...
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Jan 4, 2013 17:21
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Finally found the stock subwoofer box I've been trying to remove. Apparently when the FSM refers to the seat belts as being passive or non-passive (which it only does when documenting the subwoofer box location and no where else) its really saying are your seatbelts automatic (passive) or normal (non-passive). Since I thought passive meant non-motorized, I was looking in the wrong spot in the car for a week. Also finally removed an AC line that has been pissing me off. Unfortunately I could only get enough access to turn the bolt 1/16th of a turn, so it took me an hour. I'm still glad its out. Still waiting on the o-rings for the abs pump to ship.
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Jan 4, 2013 18:11
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Completely just an interior issue of tidiness, but I re-routed the USB cable behind the dash so I can have the phone charging in the cradle without wires hanging all over the place. The cradle is above the dash vent because in the summer sun you need at least some AC blowing right on it to prevent overheating. I considered hard-wiring in a USB charger behind the dash to leave the power outlet free and not have the cable coming out and around, but that seemed like I'd be asking for a visit from the electrical gremlins.
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Jan 4, 2013 23:54
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Replaced the ladies headlamps. Great timing too as I noticed the driver's side was out. What should be a relatively simple job is a loving nightmare on a Yaris LB. The manual says to unplug the connector, pull off the boot, push in the retaining clips and swap out the bulb. The connector comes out easily enough, but removing that boot with next to no clearance is near impossible, and the drivers side has about 1 inch of clearance from the airbox and fusebox. Instead I had to drop the front bumper cover in order to pull out the headlamp assemblies. Once that was done, it was really straightforward. Ended up destroying one the rubber boots, so I'll need to replace that.
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Jan 5, 2013 04:36
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Replaced the B-pillar wind seal so I don't have to listen to the wind howl around behind the door every time I get on the freeway. I thought I might be barking up the wrong tree until I got the new one in and realized "oh yeah, that's how that used to fit." Bonus fix: There had been an intermittent rattle at that B-pillar for about a year. It seems now it was the seal retainer, rattling around amid shriveled up rubber instead of actually retaining anything.
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Jan 5, 2013 07:32
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I overfilled the oil and broke down halfway to London (oil in exhaust system, d'oh!). Emptied the oil today and refilled to correct level. Car seems to be running fine now but is there anything I should be mindful of? (Other than the loving dipstick).
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Jan 5, 2013 11:57
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Finally caught up with maintenence! Done to the Tauras: Breakes, rotors and flush all four tires. New drum cylinders on the back water pump heater core heater blend door thermostat coolant flush oil transmission fluid and filter four brand new winter tires EGR valve IAC valve inner and outer tie-rods ball joints struts engine mounts accessory belt idler tensioner 180,000 miles without any issues and as SOON as I change the heater core out everything else decided it was time to be replaced. Then again I just got a job that pays decent money so now I get to actually catch up on everything. 
FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jan 5, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 20:53
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Two SAABs at one time.  Oil changes for the 2000, and the 1996. gently caress this weather. E: WTF? Where'd giggity go?
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Jan 5, 2013 21:15
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Viggen posted:E: WTF? Where'd giggity go?  <quagmire>
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Jan 5, 2013 21:26
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Picked up a 1987 4runner yesterday. It's an SR5, with the 22re and auto trans. I have a few things to work out with it, starting with thte suspension. It has been lifted, likely with a torsion bar crank and a combination of add a leaf and different shackle in the rear. Holy poo poo does it ride stiff. Looking into different options for new springs and shocks. Also had to change the washer fluid pump. Finding it easy to work on versus the Audi and VW I had before...
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Jan 7, 2013 03:28
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Changed the Thermostat on my 300m. Sounds simple enough eh? Nope....some geniuses decided on the 3.5L V6 that the stat is in the end of the LOWER Rad hose which connects on the middle side of the block, behind the alternator and in front of the oil filter. So imagine having a space just large enough to get a hand into, and having to align a gasket you can't see with a stat that just barely stays in place in a oh so slight lip on the housing on a reverse 60 degree angle. Whats worse is they use loving bolts and not studs with nuts which would help you align the fucker slightly. The entire reason I had to do the job in the first place is the last person who did it, was clearly as frustrated as me, and decided to RTV the hell out of the t-stat into the housing so it wouldn't fall out, but what ended up happening was the RTV broke off and jammed in the spring keeping it open..... All this just to pass emissions. At least I have decent heat now.
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Jan 7, 2013 05:57
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Well I didnt do it because I lack the tools to do it properly (rattle gun, hoist), but I did have money and a mechanic, so I: Enkei RPF1 17x9+22 Kumho KU31 245/40/17 DBA Slotted front and rear rotors QFM HPX pads front and rear 5 stud conversion new wheelnuts.   Surprisingly the fronts dont scrub at full lock. really didnt want to have to go for a skinnier tire as I think the whole stretched look is loving stupid. I like meaty tires! not entirely sure the white lettering is going to last very long, it started cracking on my (short) drive home will be good for a few photos this weekend though!Next on the list is a whole bunch of adjustable arms, new front pipe for the exhaust, braided brake lines and a new fluid.
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Jan 7, 2013 12:26
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That thing is loving gorgeous man.
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Jan 7, 2013 21:19
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thanks, its pretty dirty though. I will wash it good and take some proper SLR pictures this weekend heopfully.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:01
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Son of a bitch, while my engine is out of my Z, the intake was checked. Plentiful oil to be had. And the compression test, while not terrible, was 150/150/150/150/140/135. Not something I feel oh-so-comfy putting 2bar through, soooo, built shortblock, here we come. The only original stuff on this car will be, like, the interior, maybe a quarterpanel, and the doors. And the diff/trans. Oh, the heads, too, but with my luck, probably not. Jesus. Watch the heads get yanked and valves just drop the gently caress out. Making 600-700hp on a 23 year old V6 is just such a terrible idea, I must be retarded. At least have more money than brains (I'm mostly broke)
Method Loser fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 11:38
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Checked the coolant. But I did start the VW after oh...maybe 3 months rest. The battery is screwed so it needed a jump. It loses most of its current after a while even when disconnected so it lights up all the gauge lights nice and bright, runs the fuel pump but can't even trip the starter solenoid. Once it started it was happy as usual. I shifted the caravan and started to get it ready in case we need to bail because of fire. It's not going so well. I drained the water tank and was rewarded with the metal strap holding the hoses in place tearing loose. I also liberated the other 9kg cylinder and mounted it in the empty bracket on the caravan. For whatever reason it accommodates two cylinders. While shuffling stuff on the inside I found the missing window latch hook things. The lever shafts have sheared off but at least now I have a catch to hold the window closed with again instead of duct tape. There is some other rather worrying damage in it which needs investigation but unfortunately can't be done non-destructively.
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Jan 8, 2013 13:34
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Finally got my new stereo in from christmas. New one didn't have the 2 inch rca cables the factory one had, had to go to like five different stores to find cables that werent 20 feet long. Aside from that, though, everything is loving peachy; bluetooth, built in usb and aux input, hd radio, and now I have handsfree calling in my car. Its even got a color adjustable screen and accent lights so i can have it match my orange gauges!
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Jan 8, 2013 15:09
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Nothing today, but tomorrow I'm replacing my 1992 GMC Jimmy with broken 4wd and ABS with a 1993 GMC Jimmy with possibly working 4wd and ABS, but with a leaky transmission. 4L60-E. Any common failures? I have a spare in the 1992 if worst comes to worst.
corgski fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 15:45
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Early 700R4s liked to puke out the front seal, don't know if it was upgraded in later versions.
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Jan 8, 2013 18:21
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Fucknag posted:Finally got my new stereo in from christmas. New one didn't have the 2 inch rca cables the factory one had, had to go to like five different stores to find cables that werent 20 feet long. Aside from that, though, everything is loving peachy; bluetooth, built in usb and aux input, hd radio, and now I have handsfree calling in my car. Its even got a color adjustable screen and accent lights so i can have it match my orange gauges! I'm thinking of going handsfree with my next headunit - where'd you put the mic?
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Jan 8, 2013 18:33
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Discovered that I have a flat on the rear right. Not low. Flat. There does not appear to be any leaks, but of course, that is the area that gets NO sunlight so it is a solid brick of ice. This should be fun.  E: Tire itself is fine. Rim itself is fine (not bent or tweaked/etc). My lovely little handheld pump wasn't strong enough to make it re-seal. Strange. Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 19:57
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blk posted:I'm thinking of going handsfree with my next headunit - where'd you put the mic? Steering column right behind the wheel, works beautifully.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:11
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I'm going to be moving soon, so I put new shocks on the van, 86 GMC vandura. I'm pretty sure the old shocks are still OEM after 104k. Feels all sorts of nice now though. Added bonus: the front right started leaking as I was working on pulling it off.
Rorac fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jan 9, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 19:17
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Bucephalus posted:Early 700R4s liked to puke out the front seal, don't know if it was upgraded in later versions. Nope, that's exactly what happened to it. Looks like the pan gasket is shot too. Bought it at $600, limped it home while stopping every ten miles to add a quart of transmission fluid. I'm taking it to my mechanic tomorrow to see what he quotes me, because honestly I'm a lazy fucker.
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Jan 9, 2013 20:05
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I treated the pitted rust on the ill fated bike's chrome with INOX, and washed / waxed the frame. It looks all purdy like. Did the pre drive check on the car. Same as usual. Also had to turn down another vehicle because of its location. It's always goddamn Gippsland which has a national park in between me and it. I wouldn't do that trip if it were to pick up a dumptruck full of prepaid hookers. er... yeah I probably wouldn't do that anyway. I'd need an excavator as well to be worth my while.
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Jan 9, 2013 22:18
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I finally got some 303 Aerospace Protectant and wiped my car down. Now to do the plastic exterior of my wife's car.
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Jan 9, 2013 22:30
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Gave the NG900 slushbox an italian tuneup. Reved up to 2.5k RPM, begrudgingly went into second, straight butter into third. This car still belittles me. 
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Jan 9, 2013 22:35
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