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Looking for some advice or information about a 2005 Ford Explorer experiencing some driveline issues. The owner has visited three separate mechanics and they are we're unable to give a full diagnosis. Two of three mechanics had an answer and one only acted confused. Between the two mechanics and a Ford phone-tech or something they figured it could be a faulty electromagnetic clutch or the motor for the 4x4 module. The issue in the owners words: quote:"4WD engages when driving over ice/snow/wet conditions. It is in 4WD –Auto, however, does not fully engage, make a load droning/harmonic noise. I don't know. Any help is appreciated.
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Jan 8, 2013 05:46
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What is the best place to find a recommendation for a shop in my area? I'm a total non car knowing idiot and I just want some tires and an oil change and all of that kind of bull poo poo. I've poked around but the big threads on this forum all seemed to be so much more specialized. Sites or threads, whatever.
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Jan 8, 2013 09:33
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You could try in here. Never know.
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Jan 8, 2013 09:48
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An Enormous Boner posted:What is the best place to find a recommendation for a shop in my area? I'm a total non car knowing idiot and I just want some tires and an oil change and all of that kind of bull poo poo. I've poked around but the big threads on this forum all seemed to be so much more specialized. Sites or threads, whatever. Car talk has a database here with mechanic reviews, I've found it to be pretty comprehensive and reliable. You can also try yelp, they have some as well.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:40
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What's a good organization to donate a car to in the DC/MD/VA area? I bottomed out my VW Passat, loving up the alignment and scraping up the oil pan at the very least. Pretty sure it's not going to recover so I took it off the insurance and now I wanna get it out of my cul-de-sac before the neighbors start getting angry about the car without plates and the crooked front wheel. If I could turn it over to someone for a free tow and a writeoff, that would be good. If it's more economically efficient to do something else with the car I'm open to suggestions obviously.
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Jan 8, 2013 16:15
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AnimalsFighting posted:Looking for some advice or information about a 2005 Ford Explorer experiencing some driveline issues. The owner has visited three separate mechanics and they are we're unable to give a full diagnosis. Two of three mechanics had an answer and one only acted confused. Between the two mechanics and a Ford phone-tech or something they figured it could be a faulty electromagnetic clutch or the motor for the 4x4 module. So throw out the "not fully engaging", as well as the auto/manual 4hi distinction. The important part is that 4wheel drive doesn't work. This is a basic diagnosis: switch to 4 wheel high, see if the front drive shaft is engaged. See if the front axle is engaged. My bet, knowing Fords of this vintage, is that it's a simple matter of the front axle not engaging all the way. The vacuum solenoids (on the firewall) and vacuum actuator (on the axle) are known to fail, and the actual mechanism in the axle to engage the hubs is also known to get so crudded up that the vacuum actuator can't move it. I'd then remove the electric solenoid on the transfer case and shift it manually, completely eliminating any computer or electrical controls. A total guess on a guess (if the front axle isn't engaging and/or the t-case solenoid wasn't fully engaging it) is that the noise started as the center diff groaning over things it shouldn't have to do and has ended up as a hosed center diff from driving around like that. I'd suggest draining the t-case and checking for metal in the fluid.....which I believe is ATF in those but don't quote me on that. This is not a quick lube kind of problem. It's not a chain garage type of problem. It's a quality indy shop or transmission shop kind of problem. Anywhere else is likely to produce the diagnostic results you described.
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Jan 8, 2013 16:39
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A neighbor in Alexandria donated their car to the local npr station (WAMU) and it was painless. They just signed some paperwork and handed over the title when the flatbed came. I am fairly sure they got a letter or call or something a few weeks later saying how much it had sold for and thus how much of a deduction they could take for it. What are some decent tire makers and product lines for a 17" A/S sedan tire? Are the consumer reports ratings worth anything at all or should I not bother with that?
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Jan 8, 2013 16:41
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Shifty Pony posted:What are some decent tire makers and product lines for a 17" A/S sedan tire? Are the consumer reports ratings worth anything at all or should I not bother with that? Goodyear Vector 4seasons. They've won every single all-season tire test I've seen.
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Jan 8, 2013 17:00
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KozmoNaut posted:Goodyear Vector 4seasons. They've won every single all-season tire test I've seen. Unfortunately they are not available in the United States. Everything Goodyear makes for the size I need (225/45R17 91H or better) gets horrific tread life reviews and the area I am in has road surfaces which are really hard on tires so that worries me a bit.
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Jan 8, 2013 19:03
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Shifty Pony posted:Unfortunately they are not available in the United States. Everything Goodyear makes for the size I need (225/45R17 91H or better) gets horrific tread life reviews and the area I am in has road surfaces which are really hard on tires so that worries me a bit. Yokohama AVID V4/H4s get pretty good reviews and should meet your needs.
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Jan 8, 2013 19:22
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Shifty Pony posted:What are some decent tire makers and product lines for a 17" A/S sedan tire? Are the consumer reports ratings worth anything at all or should I not bother with that? I look at TireRack's consumer ratings. I have a set of Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires that cost less than other tires with similar ratings.
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Jan 8, 2013 19:57
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Uthor posted:I look at TireRack's consumer ratings. This is exactly what I do.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:23
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I have a more generic question that keeps popping up in my head. It's a question on the aerodynamics of towing. I have a sedan (Yes the Fairlane). I also have a relatively tall 7x5 trailer (stands maybe a touch over 6' tall) with metal sides and a pop top caravan which is pretty wide and would easily be 9 or 10' tall. I don't like the thought of joining the masses of "I have a 4x4 for towing derpity doo I don't need to set it up correctly because it's a 4x4!!!!" crowd, and never will. Because I know how to set poo poo up for correct towing but it's the whole association thing. Anyway my question. Would something like a 4x4 wagon provide an aerodynamic advantage over a relatively low sedan when towing something with a large front face?
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Jan 8, 2013 21:44
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That depends on what the front of the trailer looks like. Most commercial tractors or even serious pickup truck tow rigs run an air deflector. I used to have a pop-up one on the roof of my truck. You could tell the difference between up and down, both when towing (good difference) and not town (bad difference......as in get out on the highway and pull over to fix it because you forgot and left it up with no trailer). If the front of your trailer is aerodynamic (I eventually got a horse trailer that wasn't shaped like a load of bread and took the air deflector off the truck) it won't make much difference.
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Jan 8, 2013 21:48
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Motronic posted:That depends on what the front of the trailer looks like. I'd like to revise. The caravan is maybe 8' tall. I just checked after just now refitting one of the water tank hoses that I pulled to drain the ancient water. Haven't used photobucket's thumbnail before. let's see how it goes. Here's a photo with the front of the caravan in it.  Don't have one of the trailer but it's about as aerodynamic as a parachute. I'm not exaggerating unfortunately. Some dipshit thought solid sides, a solid back ramp with enough gap on the interface to wreck the high pressure zone and a mesh / open front was a good idea. I have the shredded remnants of a tarp on the front in an attempt to alleviate that until I can get something better. Also I was just under the caravan and the floor frame isn't flat. It's like a '^' with the axle in the middle. Obviously not that severe. Are they ever built like this, is this considered normal sag or is something insidious going on?
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Jan 8, 2013 22:05
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Uthor posted:I look at TireRack's consumer ratings. I have a set of Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires that cost less than other tires with similar ratings. Those are looking very tempting, and are a good bit cheaper than other highly rated tires like the Michelin Primacy MXM4.
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Jan 8, 2013 22:32
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We had those on our Saab for a few months (before the Saab was written off) and they were great in the end of last winter/early spring that we had the opportunity to drive on them. We actually still have the wheels and tires, maybe 1200 miles on them, but they're 16" and likely nowhere near what you'd need.
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Jan 8, 2013 22:46
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Faerunner posted:We actually still have the wheels and tires, maybe 1200 miles on them, but they're 16" and likely nowhere near what you'd need. ..how much shipped?
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Jan 8, 2013 23:03
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Viggen posted:..how much shipped? (I actually predicted this response.) I have no idea how much it would be to ship a wheel/tire. What's your zip code? I'll look into it.
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Jan 8, 2013 23:07
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I've had my VW Passat in the garage for a year or so because I got tired of dumping money into it to try and fix a chronic O2 sensor code, but I need a second car again so I'm planning to take it out of hibernation and have it looked at again. I know I'm going to need to check the battery and I believe I need to change the oil and put fresh gas in, but are there any general tips/checklists on what to do in this situation? I'd rather not destroy it because I forgot to do something. I've found some wildly varying answers on google so I thought I'd ask here. Mulloy fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 23:28
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Tell me about OBD II sensor code resets. I have an 05 Scion TC with 110k miles and a check engine light on. Suppose I take it to Autozone to get the code read and it tells me it's something stupid like a cracked gas cap and I replace it. Should I then use the little handheld scanner dealy to clear the code? Is there any risk there? In other words, if what I did didn't actually fix the problem, the light would go on again later, right?
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Jan 8, 2013 23:49
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Correct. Clearing a code will effectively reset the test that failed to an 'unknown' state, meaning the computer hasn't decided whether or not that system is working properly. It turns the light off because it hasn't failed the test again yet, but until it passes that test, it will also have an internal error set on one of the 'readiness flags'. This is done so that you couldn't drive up to the test station, clear your codes in the parking lot, and get tested / passed before they come on again. If the issue is fixed, the computer will eventually repeat the test and set the appropriate flag back to 'ready'. Readiness flags are only an issue if you have an imminent emissions inspection, though.
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Jan 9, 2013 00:08
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So my wife's 2003 Dodge Durango SXT V8 started leaking anti freeze the other day. I brought it to Firestone and they said that it was the Heater Hose Assembly (the longer portion)and that they couldn't buy an after market version of this piece and that it will be severely expensive to fix. First, is Firestone the right place to go? Has anyone heard of these things not being sold? Should I just take it to a Dodge dealership and see if they can fix it?
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Jan 9, 2013 00:16
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Socal Sapper posted:So my wife's 2003 Dodge Durango SXT V8 started leaking anti freeze the other day. I brought it to Firestone and they said that it was the Heater Hose Assembly (the longer portion)and that they couldn't buy an after market version of this piece and that it will be severely expensive to fix. Does it look like this?  Gates part number 19390, retails for about $50. I don't know why they would be calling it an assembly, but these hoses are common as corn. I'm not trying to start a war with anybody, but go get a 2nd opinion from an indie shop. Check yelp or cartalk mechanic files for somebody who is well reviewed. In my experience Firestone is pretty terrible at everything, including tires. Maybe your local franchises are different?
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Jan 9, 2013 00:30
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DrPain posted:Does it look like this? I'm not sure, they didn't take it off. I will definitely take your advice and go to a privately owned shop. Thanks for the reply!
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Jan 9, 2013 00:34
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Faerunner posted:(I actually predicted this response.) I think it would probably cost too much, in line with my lack of income. I'm just a bit miffed that my $50 LPT wheels are not quite sealing 100% when the weather is under 20 degrees. Probably cheapest/easiest to use my Reno drop: 89501
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Jan 9, 2013 00:52
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Socal Sapper posted:I'm not sure, they didn't take it off. I will definitely take your advice and go to a privately owned shop. Just for shits why dont you try popping the hood and using a flashlight to check the heater hoses? If its leaking bad you should see it without a pressure test. "Heater hose assembly" isnt a thing as far as i know, and i cant find it online anywhere. Heaters usually have two hoses that run from your engine to the heater core behind the firewall. There is probably a switching valve in-line with them so it could be more than 2 actual pieces of hose. I can find a total of 4 parts for your heating system online. 2 heater hoses, a black multi fitting thing theyre callling a clamp, and the heater core. Doesnt mean there isnt some OEM only thing im missing, but im skeptical.
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Jan 9, 2013 02:46
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Power steering mystery on my hands....01 Mustang GT (4.6L v8) So the power steering had a slight leak when my girlfriend bought this car, from a line, don't remember which one, but it was very slight. The car had sat for 3 years and the fluid was black, so I changed it, using Valvoline MaxLife Power Steering Fluid w/ StopLeak. A month later, gf is complaining of a whining when she turns...yep there's no fluid in the reservoir. She refilled it twice within a few days because it kept leaking out. It miraculously stops leaking. Yesterday I take it to the shop I work at and the belt had slung fluid everywhere, and the bottom of the engine/power steering pump and all lines and the steering gear were covered in black fluid. So I hosed it down with brake cleaner until it was bone dry. I had my buddy watch it while it was running and I cranked the wheels to and fro. No leaks. Nothing out of the ordinary. Took it through the car wash, and drive it home. The belt had been squealing, but it stopped. Well, today, the belt is squealing much worse, apparently. And there was a "giant puddle" under the car this morning (I haven't been able to get over there to check it out, and its a gravel driveway anyways). She drove it to work and back and said everything was fine but it "squeaks really loud". I plan on investigating it again tomorrow in the daylight, but I'm looking for clues as to what the hell is going on. Why does this poo poo have to happen in the dead of winter
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Jan 9, 2013 04:18
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This is a horrendously stupid question is there a Semi T/T thread here?
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Jan 9, 2013 04:27
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Omglosser posted:Power steering mystery on my hands....01 Mustang GT (4.6L v8) Hairline fracture somewhere that seals up when warm?
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Jan 9, 2013 04:38
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I'm having a fun time installing a new stereo on a '06 Civic SI I purchased used a while back and could use some help. The last owner switched out the factory unit at some point, so originally I thought it'd be pretty straight forward since it seemed replacing the trim panel to one with a DIN was the most obnoxious part and was already done for me. Then I found out that because the SI has some extra fancy bits in the audio system that the standard '06 Honda connector wouldn't work -- and after opening everything up I found that the last person opted to cut off the factory connector and directly wire the then new unit in to get around this. No biggie, the color for each wire on the old and new unit matched up according to the manuals so I dove in and slowly started to get the old unit's connector out and the new one in, wire by wire. Here's where the problems come in. The last guy did something to the black ground wire and all I can find is a little stub of it on the old connector. I'm sure I didn't cut it myself and I cannot find the matching loose end in the dash. On top of that, one of the other power wires (can't remember if it's the red or yellow off the top of my head, pretty sure it's the red) is also MIA and the guy opted to instead splice the unit's power into the power line for the "passenger airbag off" indicator light. So I'm sitting here with Haynes book for this car looking at the wiring diagram for the sound system (page 12-75 if anyone else has it). I'm guessing that what'll be the best way to go from here is to slowly unbundle the cable keeper for the rest of the sound system until I find the MIA ground and power lines, then go from there. Honda does not use the same color coding as the stereo manufacturer and I'm completely new to this sort of thing so if anyone could help me figure out what the hell I'm looking for for the power I would really appreciate it. Looks like "+B BACK UP" (white) goes to the power, as does "ACC RADIO" (purple). Looking at the stereo's manual it seems like they'd match up to yellow and red on the unit's connector. And I guess the "RADIO GND" is where I might want to ground? Or barring that grounding somewhere on the frame? There's also a mystery female USB cable in there that I have no loving clue what is for, if anyone knows that'd be nice too. I know these are really dumb questions but I hope you guys can forgive me on that as I'm way in over my head. Never did this sort of stuff before, just the usual pop out the old unit, install the new connector, and pop in the new unit installs.
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Jan 9, 2013 05:49
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Youre going to want a multimeter for that. You can use that to figure out which wires are hot when the key is on and off. As far as your missing ground, that would concern me, id hunt it down if i were you and then see if it really is a ground using the meter. Its not like he spliced into the airbags themselves but drat why would anyone splice into that light? Undo that and make it nice and clean again. If youve never found a key on hot wire from the ignition and ran a wire to an accessory before, you should look up how to do that, because you might need to if there isnt a radio power wire available.
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Jan 9, 2013 06:08
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I'm having a spark plug issue with my wife's Corolla. I'm trying to replace the spark plugs, but two of the four spark plug caps won't come off. The first two came off just fine, but the remaining two aren't budging. I tried and tried, and after an hour of swearing at the spark plug caps I had no luck. Any helpful tips for removing a really, REALLY stubborn spark plug cap? It feels as if it's vacuum-sealed, if that makes any sense. My Civic's spark plugs were easily changed, but everything about the Toyota so far has been that much more difficult to fix. 
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Jan 9, 2013 08:38
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Try twisting while pulling, perhaps? I'm not sure it'll work, there may be locating pegs, but often the rubber boots get sorta stuck to the tubes through the valve cover and have to be freed up by twisting them slightly back and forth while pulling.
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Jan 9, 2013 08:42
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So I have this weird issue with my car. 98 Mazda Millenia. When it's cold it runs fine, except maybe I get a little bit less acceleration than I think it should have. As it gets warmer, when I press the accelerator past a certain point I lose all power. The amount of gas I can give it shrinks as the temperature grows, and at normal running temp I can only just barely press on the pedal before I lose any acceleration. I can cruise around at about 15-20 MPH but that's it. Took my car to the mechanic to fix this and he had his guy diagnose it and told me it would cost between $80 and $300 and it would take a few hours. It's not done until the next day and he charges me $350. He says he had to replace some electrical box and a couple of spark plugs. Now I'm driving it and loving nothing is different. Same poo poo. I talked to a friend who kind of knows cars, he thinks it sounds like a catalytic converter. I took it back to the same garage yesterday and I assume it'll be done today. What should I do when I go to pick it up? I don't have this kind of money. Should I demand he fix it for free, deduct the cost of the original from whatever repairs he needs, or something?
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Jan 9, 2013 16:12
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melon cat posted:Any helpful tips for removing a really, REALLY stubborn spark plug cap? It feels as if it's vacuum-sealed, if that makes any sense. My Civic's spark plugs were easily changed, but everything about the Toyota so far has been that much more difficult to fix. Get one of these? (they make an automotive version but I dunno what they call it) Use that and a big flat-head screwdriver to pry em out, maybe? Or you could try hitting it with your purse. Although I'd be careful no matter what you end up doing that you don't break those coils, they are stupid expensive to replace. Omglosser fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 9, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 17:55
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Raw_Beef posted:Youre going to want a multimeter for that. You can use that to figure out which wires are hot when the key is on and off. As far as your missing ground, that would concern me, id hunt it down if i were you and then see if it really is a ground using the meter.
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Jan 9, 2013 19:21
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Parts Kit posted:Thanks. Would just a regular home electrical work multimeter handle the job or would I need something specifically for a car? As long as it has a DC setting and can read around 12 volts (it can unless you have some sort of oddball) you'll be fine.
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Jan 9, 2013 19:25
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Raw_Beef posted:When you say recently, how long do you mean? Did they do a power steering fluid flush? did they replace/adjust the belt? If its been several weeks and they didnt do those things, then its almost for sure unrelated to their service. Sometimes things just break. Looks like they didn't do steering fluid (it isn't part of the normal 60k). No record of belt work, so yeah, it's probably coincidental. Here's the noise, the mic doesn't grab it that well so you'll need to turn it up. Sorry for shaky cam, trying not to hit the new E-Class right behind me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwMpWBUptXI
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Jan 9, 2013 20:47
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Parts Kit posted:There's also a mystery female USB cable in there that I have no loving clue what is for, if anyone knows that'd be nice too. A number of aftermarket stereos use them for connecting iPod adapters (or for connecting another female USB cable you can run out to your dash/glovebox/console, which it could itself be if it's pretty long). Alternately, if there's 5V across the two outer pins, it may be a power source that the PO added for some gadget.
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Jan 9, 2013 21:02
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