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Steve French posted:I had the same thing happening to me, with the podcast app (also 2012 Jetta TDI and iPhone 4S). Just suddenly started happening one day, couldn't figure it out either. I then threw my phone in the toilet and had it replaced, and it hasn't happened since. Seems like a drastic 'solution'
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Jan 4, 2013 19:08
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Steve French posted:I had the same thing happening to me, with the podcast app (also 2012 Jetta TDI and iPhone 4S). Just suddenly started happening one day, couldn't figure it out either. I then threw my phone in the toilet and had it replaced, and it hasn't happened since. I'm not quite to the waterboarding my phone stage yet in the process, but I'll keep it in mind 
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Jan 4, 2013 19:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:don't worry I'm not going to hit the brake pedal with the caliper hanging loose. C'mon, wheres your sense of adventure?
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Jan 4, 2013 19:30
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Billy Tully posted:C'mon, wheres your sense of adventure? Been there, done that, have the dent in the wall to prove it.
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Jan 4, 2013 21:19
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Virigoth posted:I've got a 2012 Jetta TDI Premium, no nav. I'm having this weird issue with my Bluetooth music on my Iphone 4S IOS 6.x enabling itself and streaming Bluetooth music whenever I start the car. I'm not on the Media screen on my entertainment display. It is sporadic but seems to do it 90% of the time. I've tested that if I don't have music loaded in my phones library it doesn't do it(recommended on tdiclub). Any ideas how to get this to stop? There's a menu item for auto starting Bluetooth audio. However, turning it off hasn't helped me, as it still does it every time, 2013 CC.
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Jan 5, 2013 02:46
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Are the ContiProContact OEM Tires for the 2010 TDI just garbage on tread life or am I somehow driving like a maniac to be approaching replacement time after 33k? Or is this yet another something I can blame on Texas chip-sealing every drat road? I am not at the wear bars, more like 2/16th, but I like to replace a touch early because hydroplaning is a nasty issue around here when we get the sudden deluges in the spring. Any suggestions for a good all season 225/45R17 91H? Winter grip isn't the most important thing in the world (because Texas) but like I said hydroplaning is.
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Jan 7, 2013 03:45
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I'm at 28k and have around 4/32 left. I'd say it's pretty much inline - I'm in Texas too and drive in a spirited manner. I'm throwing on some Pilot Super Sports next. 
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Jan 7, 2013 03:50
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Shifty Pony posted:Are the ContiProContact OEM Tires for the 2010 TDI just garbage on tread life or am I somehow driving like a maniac to be approaching replacement time after 33k? Or is this yet another something I can blame on Texas chip-sealing every drat road? I am not at the wear bars, more like 2/16th, but I like to replace a touch early because hydroplaning is a nasty issue around here when we get the sudden deluges in the spring. They're garbage. I replaced mine before 1000 miles. And they only got that 1000 miles on them because I had to order the wheels and tires and it took 2 tries to get a full set of wheels because TSW can't be assed to put the correct wheel in the proper box.
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Jan 7, 2013 18:59
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When you buy a 24H subscription to erwin.vw.com to download technical documents, manuals, etc, can you grab them for as many vehicles as you can, or just one car? I have two, possibly four different VWs i'd like to grab documentation for.
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Jan 8, 2013 18:40
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Shifty Pony posted:Are the ContiProContact OEM Tires for the 2010 TDI just garbage on tread life or am I somehow driving like a maniac to be approaching replacement time after 33k? Or is this yet another something I can blame on Texas chip-sealing every drat road? I am not at the wear bars, more like 2/16th, but I like to replace a touch early because hydroplaning is a nasty issue around here when we get the sudden deluges in the spring. I have a 2011 TDI with those and 31k on them, with around 8/16ths left, and live in Texas too. Most of my miles are long range road trip miles through versus every day commuting so it might not be as hard on them.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:10
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devmd01 posted:When you buy a 24H subscription to erwin.vw.com to download technical documents, manuals, etc, can you grab them for as many vehicles as you can, or just one car? I have two, possibly four different VWs i'd like to grab documentation for. Check this out before you start throwing cash around: http://elsaweb.spaghetticoder.org/
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Jan 8, 2013 20:23
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I own two VWs now so i'm used to that with maintenance-related items!  But seriously, thanks - that will be helpful.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:53
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Bovril Delight posted:I'm throwing on some Pilot Super Sports next. Best tires I've ever experienced. Do it.
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Jan 9, 2013 05:10
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Oh if we're doing tyre trip reports, Conti ExtremeContact DWS on a A4, doing loving awesome like 2k miles in. Quiet as hell and hug the road in the MI winter.
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Jan 9, 2013 05:44
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2 questions about a 2013 GTI. - Anyone know of issues/TSBs for the GPS freezing? Both times, it was a while after starting up from filling up in the middle of a very long drive. Shutting the car off didn't immediately fix the GPS, but it did recover the next day. - does pressing the voice control button twice turn it back off? Or is the only way to make the listening prompt go away to say "Cancel" ?
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Jan 9, 2013 07:07
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I've got a Few questions on a potential 2011 golf TDI purchase. I've spotted a 4 door in the area with 53000 miles, listed at $20,000, which seems like its a reasonable price point based on a quick Internet and Craigslist search. I am a little concerned that its not a. Volkswagen certified pre-owned car, instead, the dealer has it listed as a WorldAuto certified pre-owned, which as far as I can tell gives it a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty rather than the 2 year/24,000 mile standard. Also, is there anything in particular I should ask about having been replace around 50,000 miles? I've gotten burned on used car purchases in the past and I want to make sure I'm getting into before I make the single biggest purchase thus far in my life. Thoughts?
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Jan 9, 2013 08:11
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NitroSpazzz posted:Been there, done that, have the dent in the wall to prove it. So have I but how did you dent the wall? haha. I did it by doing the back brakes first with the front calipers hanging. I went to set the new rear pads by pressing the pedal a few times and then wondering why it was taking so long but the front pistons laying on the floor will do that.
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Jan 9, 2013 17:09
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Billy Tully posted:So have I but how did you dent the wall? haha. I did it by doing the back brakes first with the front calipers hanging. I went to set the new rear pads by pressing the pedal a few times and then wondering why it was taking so long but the front pistons laying on the floor will do that. Think that dent may have actually been from a pressure test after a caliper rebuild involving an air compressor nozzle and too much PSI. Brake pedal usually just pops them out and makes a mess.
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Jan 9, 2013 20:26
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Pikey posted:I've got a Few questions on a potential 2011 golf TDI purchase. I've spotted a 4 door in the area with 53000 miles, listed at $20,000, which seems like its a reasonable price point based on a quick Internet and Craigslist search. I am a little concerned that its not a. Volkswagen certified pre-owned car, instead, the dealer has it listed as a WorldAuto certified pre-owned, which as far as I can tell gives it a 1 year/12,000 mile warranty rather than the 2 year/24,000 mile standard. Also, is there anything in particular I should ask about having been replace around 50,000 miles? I've gotten burned on used car purchases in the past and I want to make sure I'm getting into before I make the single biggest purchase thus far in my life. That's too much. You can still pick up 12s for invoice which is only around 25k with no miles. http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2012/options.html?sub=diesel And honestly, with a TDI, if you are buying one that close to new, just buy it new. These cars don't really start to depreciate hard until around 5+ years old, or after they crater their first fuel pump.
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Jan 9, 2013 20:33
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Trying to get them down to 16000, plus tires. It is certified pre-owned
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Jan 9, 2013 21:16
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movax posted:Oh if we're doing tyre trip reports, Conti ExtremeContact DWS on a A4, doing loving awesome like 2k miles in. Quiet as hell and hug the road in the MI winter. I ended up getting these. They certainly grip much better than the OEM ContiProContacts and are not louder. Hopefully when it dries out I'll see if they are quieter too. I will say I felt bad watching the tire techs wrangling the tires up and trying to get the lug bolts started without any studs to support the wheel. That isn't going to be a fun flat change when it finally happens.
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Jan 9, 2013 22:15
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Shifty Pony posted:I ended up getting these. They certainly grip much better than the OEM ContiProContacts and are not louder. Hopefully when it dries out I'll see if they are quieter too. After you drive a VW for a few decades you get used to it. It's honestly not any harder than a car with studs once you know what you are doing. I also run DWS and just hit 18000+ on the car over the weekend. Love these tires. I bought them because I have to deal with snow out here in Denver and didn't want to have to run ugly rear end steelies for 6 months out of the year on the off chance that it -might- snow at any time.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:25
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Shifty Pony posted:I ended up getting these. They certainly grip much better than the OEM ContiProContacts and are not louder. Hopefully when it dries out I'll see if they are quieter too. There should be a plastic stud in your emergency kit, if you still have it. Screw it in hand-tight as you're taking the tire off, then you can use it to line up the spare. I've had to do a few roadside changes (I also have extreme contact DWS— they're great but don't stand up to sharp things on the road, you know), and it worked pretty flawlessly, as long as I had the nut for the security bolt.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:00
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kimbo305 posted:2 questions about a 2013 GTI. I hadn't thought to try double tapping the lady button for cancel. I still hit it enough to be annoying. Muscle memory is a bitch.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:14
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Well that was a fun trip home from work after doing a 12hr day. My 06 A4 wouldn't turn over and it was so bad I couldn't unlock the the trunk to get at my jumper cables. Had to crawl through the back seat into the trunk to get at them in order to get home. Hopefully in the morning it turns over fine and I can go to an Advance Auto store to see if it really needs a new battery.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:30
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real_scud posted:Well that was a fun trip home from work after doing a 12hr day. My 06 A4 wouldn't turn over and it was so bad I couldn't unlock the the trunk to get at my jumper cables. Had to crawl through the back seat into the trunk to get at them in order to get home. Does it not have any kind of mechanical release? I know in my 04 TT I can unscrew the cupholders and there's a pull-ring that opens the trunk. There's a similar mechanism for the fuel latch.
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Jan 10, 2013 05:49
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Full Circle posted:Does it not have any kind of mechanical release? I know in my 04 TT I can unscrew the cupholders and there's a pull-ring that opens the trunk. There's a similar mechanism for the fuel latch.
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Jan 10, 2013 13:49
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On an unrelated note, does anybody have experience with getting a duplicate key? When I bought my car (2004 TT) they only had the one switchblade style key. No emergency/valet key. I'm mainly wondering if I can buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNCUT-A...70c8e82&vxp=mtr Get it cut by a locksmith, then follow these instructions to reprogram: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc13.shtml My main goal is to have a fully functional spare key in case I lose the original, in order to avoid having to rekey the whole car or whatever exorbitant process would be required.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:48
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Full Circle posted:On an unrelated note, does anybody have experience with getting a duplicate key? When I bought my car (2004 TT) they only had the one switchblade style key. No emergency/valet key. What I do know is that I've tried that method to reprogram my keys after say, unplugging a battery, and they never seemed to work. But I tried a different method this weekend that was a helluva lot easier.
The key should now be programmed for your car and you can lock/unlock the doors as needed.
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Jan 11, 2013 01:02
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real_scud posted:I'm not sure about getting it cut by a locksmith because I don't know if all of them have the right tools to cut the key properly. Thanks for the reply. My main concern is with the immobilizer. It seems like most of the guides out there assume the immobilizer is already programmed to the car. I don't necessarily need a second key for daily use, I just want to prevent a future situation where I lose my only key and have to pony up a grand for new locks etc. Am I way off base there?
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Jan 11, 2013 06:31
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A dealer will be able to make you one for about $350, including cutting the key to match your locks and most importantly programming they key to deactivate the immobilizer. I'm not sure if they need the car there to do the programming (which would be a royal pain if you lost your key and had to have the car towed) or if they can do it solely based on the VIN and their database. There are some independent shops that can program the keys too, but they are not going to be very cheap either. Here's the VW page on it
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Jan 11, 2013 07:10
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Shifty Pony posted:A dealer will be able to make you one for about $350, including cutting the key to match your locks and most importantly programming they key to deactivate the immobilizer. I'm not sure if they need the car there to do the programming (which would be a royal pain if you lost your key and had to have the car towed) or if they can do it solely based on the VIN and their database. There are some independent shops that can program the keys too, but they are not going to be very cheap either. Ouch, I guess if there's no good DIY programming solution and the cost of losing my only key is nothing more than the cost of a duplicate I may as well just get a valet key made for 1/10 the price.
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Jan 11, 2013 07:54
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real_scud posted:I'm not sure about getting it cut by a locksmith because I don't know if all of them have the right tools to cut the key properly. If it's that easy that seems to defeat the entire purpose of having the immobilizer code in the first place. So all you need is a properly physically cut key?
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Jan 11, 2013 10:20
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Snowdens Secret posted:If it's that easy that seems to defeat the entire purpose of having the immobilizer code in the first place. So all you need is a properly physically cut key? From what I've gathered so far there are essentially two halves to the switchblade keys. One half controls only the remote locking/unlocking, and the other half controls the immobilizer. I believe they are programmed separately.
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Jan 11, 2013 17:42
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From what I've read in the past, as long as you have 2 keys, you can program a third yourself. But if you have 0 or 1 key, the dealer has to do the programming.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:00
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Full Circle posted:From what I've gathered so far there are essentially two halves to the switchblade keys. One half controls only the remote locking/unlocking, and the other half controls the immobilizer. I believe they are programmed separately. Yes, RKE generally is separated into RF and LF. LF is the 125kHz portion better known as Immobilizer; there's a small coil antenna around the ignition cylinder that reads the passive transponder chip located inside the key. RF is the 433MHz portion for your keyless entry system, which communicates with a completely separate module/antenna to authorize locking/unlocking your vehicle. The procedure should hopefully program both at the same time. The transponder in your key should be read-only/factory-programmed; you're telling the vehicle to trust that particular key. For RF there's some synchronization that takes place between key/vehicle to line up the rolling code properly (this is also why if you leave your kid bored somewhere with your car keys and he hits the button enough times that key's not working any more and will need to be re-synced). It's stupidly expensive because the software to do the necessary programming is pretty tightly controlled when it comes to distribution. This does make sense though, considering the abysmal amounts of security put into them, especially for earlier systems. I think our "secret" code for some older products was my office desk phone number when I was still working for a Tier 1. Different question: I'm not a shithead for throwing in Silverstar Ultras or zXes into my headlights right? They're still DOT-legal standard bulbs so it's not like I'm changing my aim or anything. Any reports of bulb-life differences vs. regular plain headlight bulbs? movax fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 18:05
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Right, the parts and security information that control the remote locks are separate from the chip that disables the immobilizer in the ignition. Your remote fob could be completely dead, with no battery, and the car would still start. You will still pay $150-$200 for a new Valet key, if you want it to be able to start the car. Your car needs to be programmed to recognize the immobilizer chip in the key just like with the switchblade fobs, just the hardware is cheaper because it doesn't the the RF transmitter and rolling code circuitry for the remote door locks. You need VAG-Com and a super secret seven digit car-specific code, which VW used to tell you but after 2005 will not because gently caress You Give Us Money(tm), in order to pair a new key and/or fob with the car. You can even find instructions on how to do it online, from back when VW used to let you have the code. The labor involved with pairing a car with valet key or a switchblade key should be identical (or at most differ by a few minutes), but I wouldn't be shocked if a dealer were to try and double it up by claiming that the switchblade key needs both the immobilizer and the fob paired which are distinct operations (despite it being at most a matter of entering two fields of ID codes vs one, then pressing the two buttons to sync the rolling codes). The procedure real_scud posted just re-syncs the rolling codes used by the remote fob, and only works for fobs already paired with the car but where either the fob or your car are no longer are on the same rolling code (you'd also have to do it if you sat and pressed the unlock button a few hundred times while out of range of your car, anything which makes the code the fob is on outside of the window of possible future codes the car is looking for).
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Jan 11, 2013 18:24
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movax posted:
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Jan 11, 2013 18:25
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Thanks a lot for the information guys, that clears up/confirms a lot of contradictory information I was reading. My only other question then would be if I were to lose my one and only key would it still just be a matter of contacting the dealer, possibly towing the vehicle, and ponying the $2-$400 for a new key? If so I think I'll just get a key cut in case I lock my current keys in the vehicle.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:33
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movax posted:Different question: I'm not a shithead for throwing in Silverstar Ultras or zXes into my headlights right? They're still DOT-legal standard bulbs so it's not like I'm changing my aim or anything. Any reports of bulb-life differences vs. regular plain headlight bulbs? DOT-legal means nothing, there is no DOT standard for headlight color temperature. If you run those lights you are still a shithead to every single other driver on the road who gets blinded by your high-glare lights. The bluer light simply causes more glare and eye strain, both to you while driving and to oncoming drivers, than a standard bulb. The Silverstar Ultras and the like get their bluer light by filtering out red and yellow in the bulb glass, so they normally wouldn't even put out as much light as a standard bulb. To get around this they design the bulb so that at the 12V DOT test they read the right wattage but at the 13.5V of a running car the filament is being run at a significantly higher wattage, resulting in massively shorter bulb life. Standard bulbs let you see better, let other drivers see better, and last much longer.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:42
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