|
Unless there's a reflector behind each LED, those ebay integrated lights are pretty much invisible during daylight hours. Not recommended.
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2012 20:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
So, I'm looking to buy a SV650 (naked model) and I came across a "naked 2002 model." Was there a naked model made in 2002 (I know the fairing model was made in 2002)? KBB says no: http://www.kbb.com/motorcycles/suzuki/sv650/?categoryname=streetstandardcruiser SuzukiCycles.org says no: http://www.suzukicycles.org/SV-series/SV650-SV650S.shtml The look of the bike says yes, and the VIN says it is a 2002 model. The body shows a "SV650" decal, not SV650S." Am I looking at someones SV650S to SV650 conversion? I would prefer to buy something that hasn't been hosed with... Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Nov 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2012 03:01
|
|
|
Wiki says yes all years of first gen are available naked an as a matter of fact faired was not imported until 2000.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2012 04:01
|
|
|
Fantastic, thanks. I think I'm going to pick this bad boy up then: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/3426291726.html Anything I should be on the lookout for?
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2012 07:37
|
|
|
Ask if the valves have been done or not...they're due at 15k, so if they haven't been done use that to bargain him down a ~400, which is the shop cost on a valve adjustment. Also check the age on the tires, the chain, sprockets, etc, as most of them will typically be due around 15k.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2012 07:44
|
|
|
So I was trying to replace my chain/sprockets yesterday (I can't believe it took almost a month for the parts to get here) and I've run into some problems trying to get the rear wheel back on. I just want to make sure that the order of the parts between the swingarm are like this from left to right since a bunch of parts fell off as I removed the wheel and I'm not sure if I'm reading the 'fiche correctlycode:The other issue I'm having is that it's very difficult to push the wheel up and down the chain adjustment rails. The left side will only go halfway through the entire rail. I think it's due to some extra space between the brake caliper and right swingarm: http://imgur.com/a/sqwPg In the second picture, you can see a few cm of space between the caliper and right swingarm. In the first picture, you can see that the spacer is touching up against the left swingarm. Is the brake caliper supposed to be abutted against the right swingarm or is there something else I've done wrong that prevents me from easily sliding the wheel up and down the chain adjuster rails?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 02:36
|
|
|
yergacheffe posted:So I was trying to replace my chain/sprockets yesterday (I can't believe it took almost a month for the parts to get here) and I've run into some problems trying to get the rear wheel back on. I just want to make sure that the order of the parts between the swingarm are like this from left to right since a bunch of parts fell off as I removed the wheel and I'm not sure if I'm reading the 'fiche correctly Ever been down? What have you used to clean your rims?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 05:54
|
|
|
Having to hammer in the axle is pretty normal. A small amount of space is normal until you torque down the axle nut. You're probably having difficulty moving it through the rails because the brake doesn't like to pivot easily on an sv. Z3n fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Nov 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 08:18
|
|
|
schreibs posted:Ever been down? What have you used to clean your rims? Yeah the bike's had a parking lot tipover with the frame sliders mitigating most of the damage. I don't think there's ever been a fall at speed with the bike. I used some wd40 and a cloth to wipe down the rims and other parts while the wheel was off. Z3n posted:Having to hammer in the axle is pretty normal. I think something wasn't aligned correctly since the wheel had gotten stuck so much that I couldn't move it further up the rail with a firm kick. I decided instead to just try to remove the axle again and abut the brake closer to the swingarm. Unfortunately, the axle had seized inside of the wheel and I couldn't remove it with just my hands as I did before. I ended up buying a 3/8" zinc rod and dead blow hammer and whacked it out that way. On the second time around, I made sure to line up the brake and spacers better, abut the brake to the swingarm, apply grease more liberally, and had a much better time gently tapping the axle in. Now the wheel slides up and down the rails easily since the spacers are no longer rubbing up against the swingarm. So things were going well, but of course I had to go and gently caress it up by riveting on the master link incorrectly. Now I gotta find someone in town who supplies EK chains cause I don't want to wait in the mail for another master link. Why am I so bad at wrenching?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 09:28
|
|
|
^^^ I'd think most bike shops would stock master links for a big brand like EK. Don't get too upset about messing up the master link, on my first try I killed 3 of them before I got it right. Have a problem with my 99' SV if anyone would care to take a shot at it. It's having any electrical issue of some sort when the right turn signal is being used and the engine is above 6k rpm, it flashes quickly. The bike is completely stock except LED license plate bolt lights. Would this be an indicator of impending, more significant issues? The last time the electrical system had issues, the R/R failed, fried the CDI, and a few light bulbs without blowing a fuse; since that incident it's hard not to worry about electrical issues on my daily ride bike. MooseNoose fucked around with this message at 10:58 on Nov 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 10:46
|
|
|
Shifty question. 2005 SV650, 17.7k miles. I bought it from a friend who himself bought it at 12k with a salvage title (lowside on the left), installed a ti/carbon Jardine exhaust, and then himself slid it on the left after being an idiot. Prior history is a mystery. I bought the yellow, blue, and black wreck at 12.7k and replaced cosmetic bits, bars, and tweaked shifter. No apparent damage elsewhere (cases are pristine) and it runs beautifully (good deal for $1500). In the 5k miles I've had it, it's received regular 15W40 Rotella changes and a new RK 520 chain, which I've kept adjusted. However, it has a 2-1 shifting issue that is worsening - it occasionally grinds and hits neutral rather than going into first, even if you do a good job of rev-matching. It's not too bad if you shift firmly and match when coming to a stop (though I almost always wait until the bike has nearly stopped), but downshifting for switchbacks can occasionally be tricky. All other shifts, up and down, are flawless. I was inclined to blame a rounded-off dog on first gear, but a co-worker who is intimately familiar with the trans (built track SVs starting in 1999) attributes it to a bent shift fork or star since the bike never pops out of gear under any circumstances. At any rate, it looks like I'm lined up to split the cases for a major repair if I elect to replace the gear and/or shift fork. I'm torn regarding selling it, as I absolutely love everything about the bike aside from size (I'm 6'4" with a 36" inseam), and have yet to find anything similar new or used. Any thoughts from someone who's encountered a similar issue? biek, on NC 80 a few miles from home: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2012 01:14
|
|
|
My bet: Clutch cable out of adjustment. You pull the clutch in but it doesn't disengage. Upside: Congrats, you've gotten good at clutchless shifting! Otherwise, it's probably the shift star. If it's not, it's probably the shift drum. The shift star can be replaced without splitting the cases, but the shift drum can't. Start downshifting when the bike is still rolling at a reasonable speed too. Shifting when the bike isn't rolling will often cause issues because the transmission likes to be spinning while you shift on a bike. Are you shifting firmly? That's another cause of missed shifts, especially if you're anticipating the clunk from the clutch and you're nervous about it. Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Dec 4, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2012 01:16
|
|
|
You're quick! Thanks. If in traffic, I tend to shift down to first shortly before it starts to lug, probably 3500RPM typically, and then let the clutch out enough to match. I figure the detent is happiest when it engages on gentle decel rather than suddenly when I start moving. And now that you mention it, being tentative is probably a huge part of this - once I notice it once, it tends to continue. I'll see what I can do about that. Hopefully I can get away with a case split, but if that's the case, at least it isn't spring.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2012 01:39
|
|
|
Ok, if you're downshifting at 3500 RPM in second that's a fine speed to be downshifting at. I assumed you were basically at a stop when you tried to mash it into first and it really doesn't like that. Speaking of mashing: Don't overdo it, but you really should shift with authority. Don't stab at the lever but forcefully move it through it's range. You'll see the biggest issues in first because that's the biggest ratio change, but it's always good to shift firmly through all the gears. Any sort of intermittent issue is nearly always all with the riders. Mechanical failure with transmissions is rarely intermittent.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2012 01:46
|
|
|
Just put my SV up for sale. Awesome bike, but my jacked up wrist won't let me ride anymore. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 02:57
|
|
|
What about the bike causes your wrist to hurt? FWIW, the stock bars on the SV were murderous on my wrists and I have no joint injuries. I don't know many people who liked the stock bars, most just lived with it because they didn't realize it could be changed relatively easily. If you think it's something that could be fixed, I've got a dirtbike bar sitting in the garage and would happily swap the bar for you so you could give it a shot. I'll be working on bikes tomorrow if you want to give it a try, send me a PM or something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 04:23
|
|
|
How do dirt bike bars change the riding style? I have the stock bars and don't really have a problem but maybe I just don't know what I'm missing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 04:42
|
|
|
bsamu posted:How do dirt bike bars change the riding style? I have the stock bars and don't really have a problem but maybe I just don't know what I'm missing. The biggest thing for me is that they change the angle of the bars so that rather than being swept back aggressively, they're straighter. Here's a rough comparo with a bar I had sitting on the garage floor and the Daytona:  The silver bar forces my elbows in if I want to wrap my hand firmly around the controls - the black bar allows me to reach out and have the angle, height, and location of the controls match where my hands would go naturally. The black bar is actually slightly too low and forward for me because the Daytona is for the wife, but it's good enough for demo purposes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 04:50
|
|
|
I actually already have a Daytona bar on the bike. It helped a ton, but my wrist is just too jacked up right now to ride anything. My wrist injury is from something else not-bike-related, but riding the bike for an hour means I can't play bass for two days, and that is not an option at this point.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 07:03
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:I actually already have a Daytona bar on the bike. It helped a ton, but my wrist is just too jacked up right now to ride anything. My wrist injury is from something else not-bike-related, but riding the bike for an hour means I can't play bass for two days, and that is not an option at this point. Aww, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope that it heals up and you can ride and play bass in the future!
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 07:20
|
|
|
Cortisone shots are awesome. I herniated two discs in my lower back when I was 18 and have had issues ever since - epidurals a few times a year now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 07:47
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:I actually already have a Daytona bar on the bike. It helped a ton, but my wrist is just too jacked up right now to ride anything. My wrist injury is from something else not-bike-related, but riding the bike for an hour means I can't play bass for two days, and that is not an option at this point. Is it your fretting hand? My left wrist was destroyed from a combination of years of playing guitar slung way too low, smashing snare drums, riding a CB350 with stupid clubman bars, and work related stuff. I had years of annoying pain, and then it turned into real pain that didn't allow me to play or ride at all. I thought it was just completely hosed but it turns out I just needed to let it heal for a few weeks, and now I'm all good. First start drinking more water than you normally do, just slam a cup anytime you can. Second buy one of these immediately and wear it as much as humanly possible. http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/walgreens-ace-wrist-support/ID=prod6007530-product Next if you have a bunch of shows/recording/practice and can't stop playing for a week or two, and it's your fretting hand, you need to jack that bass up Tom Morrello style as high as it can go, and sit down while you play. Third is stretch slowly, anytime your not using that wrist guard, and before you use it for bass or anything really. Also don't use your laptop in bed. Just take it real slow for a month and then resume normal activities, making sure to stretch and you should notice a huge difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 20:35
|
|
|
Ha, tom Morello style made me lol, he is the nerdiest guitarist.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2012 22:21
|
|
|
Yeah, I've been playing for 20 years and dealing with various hand issues for almost as long, so I have everything dialed in quite well by now. This is something new and different, unfortunately - something like a spur in my right wrist. I need to go to a doctor about it but the bike aggravates it worse than anything else. Besides, I don't need to commute on it, and it's not really a touring bike. I'll get the wrist straightened out and then get something like a V-Strom.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2012 01:48
|
|
|
So I joined the SV650 biek club! This past weekend I picked up an '06 SV650S with ~17,XXX miles on it in silver. It's a salvage title bike, but I'm not too afraid of them and brought along my fellow SV rider to check it out. Very clean, but we can tell the plastics have been replaced. I had been avoiding the bikini style SV's due to not being a fan of how they look, but my buddy finally convinced me that this is the bike I need. So drat comfortable and the power delivery is so smooth! I'm coming from a 2010 Ninja 250 which I still have here in California. Unfortunately the SV will sit in a garage and will be occasionally ridden by my buddy until I return to Houston. I intend to convert the bike to naked and do race-tech emulators in the front forks and get it sprung for my weight. It will also need a valve adjustment, which I plan to do myself. I'll spend some of my free time in Cali reading up on the valve job to prepare. Any tips on converting to naked? I'm looking to keep the stock instrument cluster for now and possibly go to an Aztec8 4" dual round setup, although it is a bit pricey. Anybody use these or something similar? My main goal is the best lighting performance possible, so if that is better accomplished with a different style, then I'm all ears.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2012 04:14
|
|
|
My recently acquired naked has some terrible oxford heated grips which don't work on it. The factory-looking bar end weight on the right is only held into the bar by means of a rubber cone type of thing, it just pushes into the end of the bar and friction alone stops it falling out. If you accidentally jog it with your hand or what have you, it slips out partly and it can be removed just by pulling with moderate force. Is this normal from the factory or is the end weight held on by some other means normally? The handlebar itself is completely factory as far as I know. Also, does anyone know where I would get factory or similar to factory grips online? Ebay just seems to turn up BILLET HAYABUSA CUSTOM GRIPZZZ.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
My '06N has bar weights that fit like that. There is a screw in the end that, IIRC, compresses the rubber friction dealy to make it bigger and therefore fit tighter. One of them fits super firmly and the other has always rotated slightly but I've never really worried about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2013 03:23
|
|
|
My '04N is the same. It's worth giving them a quick check at least every time you wash it. I lost one of my originals riding home from work in the dark
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2013 14:11
|
|
|
I'm looking for a little more acceleration out of my 99 SV650N, I think I'm running the stock gearing (15/45)...will verify after work. Anyone play with different gearing on their SV's? Playing with the https://www.gearingcommander.com site I'm thinking maybe drop one tooth in the front or go up two in the rear. Doing both would be fun but I'm not sure I want that much of a change.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2013 15:19
|
|
|
I've got 14/47 on my 1st gen SV, and I'm never going back to stock gearing. It's bloody fun. 14 is equal to like 2-3 teeth up in the back, so you could possibly replace the rear sprocket with something like a 50 tooth sprocket. Doing so would probably require a new chain though. 15/45 is practically senile.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2013 15:53
|
|
|
Sounds perfect for cold weather commuting, parts are on the way. Should wake the bike up a bit. With those arriving I think I should have a 14/15/16 for the front and 43/44/45/47 for the rear. Plenty of choices for the commuter and track rat.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2013 21:34
|
|
|
I'm getting closer and closer to being able to ride my 2006 SV650 (it's sitting in a garage in Houston waiting for my return from this project). It has 17,XXX miles on it and I plan on doing some maintenance including oil change, brake pads, chain, cables, and valve clearance check / adjustment. I just did my first valve adjustment on my '10 ninja 250, so I've already learned most of my lessons. Anything that would make the SV exponentially more difficult outside of the fact that the cylinders aren't lined up? I'll probably pick up the service manual and shims while I'm still out here to prepare for the evening of fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2013 01:04
|
|
|
Anyone in the market for some first gen wheels w/ rains?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2013 05:01
|
|
|
I've been resisting the inexorable draw towards a naked SV650 for some functional city riding in DC and some rural highways on the weekends. I keep thinking it's going to be more bike than I really need for those purposes, and too large, but honestly it's not that much bigger than my Ninja 500 which I find maneuverable enough. Still haven't decided, mulling that over in the "which bike" thread, but in the meantime been scoping the market. This bike (http://baltimore.craigslist.org/mcy/3545796036.html) looks more or less what I'm looking for, a 2005 SV650. Naked, a little dinged up so I don't freak when it gets knocked over by morons in my neighbourhood parallel parking, decently used but not too much age or mileage. However, the guy wants $3,500 for it (KBB for my zipcode is $3,000 from dealer in "Excellent" condition). Plus, it's not stock naked, a previous seller busted some plastic and so just converted it. Is it a little sketchy to buy a bike someone else streetfightered, not knowing if they did a decent job? Are the various wires and cables on a stock Naked variant better shielded from the elements somehow than on the average converted bike?  It seems like all the SVs I'm seeing on my local CL this week are way over, which wasn't the case this same time a year ago when I was windowshopping. For a 2005 with its original plastic gone, naked-ing by person unknown, mileage isn't mentioned, etc., wouldn't something closer to 2K be reasonable? But his ad specifically states "Serious inquiries only please, your offer of 2200 will be ignored," so I'm thinking this one is a just a general no-go.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Doesn't really look like a good deal to me basically for the reasons you gave. At least he admitted it was streetfightered after the bike ate poo poo, haha. You should be able to get one in very good condition for $3500. I'd say that's worth more around 2k
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2013 11:04
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:I've been resisting the inexorable draw towards a naked SV650 for some functional city riding in DC and some rural highways on the weekends. I keep thinking it's going to be more bike than I really need for those purposes, and too large, but honestly it's not that much bigger than my Ninja 500 which I find maneuverable enough. I don't mean to sidetrack the thread, but where did you take your MSF course? I live in DC and finally have the time to get my license but there don't seem to be any courses near metro stations. Thinking about going down into VA and just borrowing someones car to get there on an upcoming weekend.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 19:34
|
|
|
Is there a go-to rear fender eliminator kit that you guys recommend? My SV looks a little dorky with the massive fuckoff mudflap thing that's back there. edit: first gen, 2002 SV650N. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 18, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Is there a go-to rear fender eliminator kit that you guys recommend? My SV looks a little dorky with the massive fuckoff mudflap thing that's back there. I installed a Competition Werkes fender eliminator on mine, pretty simple and easy to install, and looks good enough to look stock. http://www.competitionwerkes.com/products/Suzuki/2002/SV650/standard-fender-eliminator-75
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 21:43
|
|
|
icebeam! posted:I don't mean to sidetrack the thread, but where did you take your MSF course? I live in DC and finally have the time to get my license but there don't seem to be any courses near metro stations. Thinking about going down into VA and just borrowing someones car to get there on an upcoming weekend. I actually took in in Austin, back when I had a car and could get to courses out in the boondocks. So far as DC, I was actually looking for a carless friend who wants to take the MSF. I have not yet dug into their rep/reviews, but Apex Cycle has a number of DC locations, and the two Bethesda ones are reasonably accessible from Grosvenor Metro station. One Bethesda site is 20 minutes walk from Grosvenor, the other a long walk but only 10 min by taxi so probably reasonable, plus you could probably get a ride back to the Metro from another student with a car if you can chat up a new friend. As an SV650 update, since I already have "sunk costs" in this Ninja 500 and want a streetfighter, I think for the time being I'm going to keep my beater Ninja, fix all the nasty corroded bits, weeping tank, etc., and then strip off all the plastic. That way I'll get some wrenching experience, plus given the high incidence of bike theft and knockovers in DC I'll at least have a bike with minimal breakable bits (especially with frame sliders) and that doesn't look at all valuable. The goal is to get something looking vaguely like this:  If it goes well, maybe in a few years I'll find a cosmetically beater SV650 and streetfighter/hooligan it out likewise.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 13:03 |
|
|
I didn't realize the Ninja 500 had slider products out for it. Just go the same route as I did, sell the 500 and get a SV. You will wonder why you stayed with the 500 for that long.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 03:47
|
|