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Venetir posted:It's a manual and yes, with the original transmission. Sounds like it's time to replace some vacuum lines. Party time! It shifted perfectly into reverse but, if it goes out, I've heard you can increase the travel of the reverse gear arm to help it fully engage. Any experience with that one? Nope. Transmissions I keep far, far away from. The older ones with magical pressure use vs electric solenoids? Yeah, not going to dig into that. Sometimes you can just adjust the cable for stretch, but, again, never done on a C900. Nearing 200k on the original C900 tranny isn't impossible - but I've never seen one. My 128k C900 had a new tranny after 80k. Venetir posted:Sorry, I worded that kind of funny: $3000 is just our repair/purchase project car budget. Gas, insurance, etc is all in a separate budget. I got the guy's repair records from his mechanic and found his alternator and water pump were just replaced last year. The C900 is unlike anything you will ever touch. It's strange, it's quirky, and hey, when was the last time you saw the belts near the firewall? Yeah. Never. Depending on what you have for books, you likely have the 'red book', which is a Bentley overview, or the stack of 12 different "SAAB tech" books. My guess is the red book. It never let me down, but I'd still be wary of some issues. It's also incredibly annoying to deal with LH 2.2 - you better get drat used to an ohmmeter. Still miss my '89, though.
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Jan 8, 2013 01:25
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OK, I've bitched about my 2003 9-3 (second generation, not the original) before, but for once I'm not posting about an electrical gremlin  I've got a ticking noise on start. I've noticed this in the winter - it doesn't seem to be there when it's warm out. And once the engine warms up the noise seems to go away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mz0PV20-p2k -- movie gets a bit loud when I stick my phone deep into the engine bay  It's got 102K miles on it. I put in new spark plugs, air filter, etc. 10K miles ago, and filled it up with Mobil 1 0W40 3K miles ago. Any ideas?
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Jan 10, 2013 16:25
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Johnny Cache Hit posted:Any ideas? E: Dammit I lost my first paragraph. Hate you, trackpad. First, check your serpentine and tensioner. I've heard similar for a pulley was going out. (Second) It doesn't sound like "normal" lifter tick in the beginning, but it seems to sync with the RPMs when you give it gas near the end of the video, so my next thought after checking for that is that it might be your timing chain/guide on the way out - but that wouldn't explain it magically going away when the car heats up. Is there any way you can get a bit more footage of it not being random/haphazard? If you want to check to see if it's lifters, or the timing chain, the easiest way is with a mechanic stethoscope pressed up against the valve cover. If you don't have one, you can just hold a screwdriver to it and place the plastic side near your ear. I'm more familiar with the H line than anything Ecotec, and oddly have yet to experience one with the timing chain going out. Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 10, 2013 17:24
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Hmm. Maybe it's just the tensioner. God, I can dream, right? But you might be right with the timing chain... I've heard on various forums that the plastic guides are a common failure point. This post seems to match your suspicion and the symptoms I see: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205219 I'll snag my dad's mechanics stethoscope and try to isolate the sound a bit more, and pay a bit more attention to when it's ticking.
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Jan 10, 2013 18:19
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Johnny Cache Hit posted:I'll snag my dad's mechanics stethoscope and try to isolate the sound a bit more, and pay a bit more attention to when it's ticking. I just don't understand the variable ticking, and it shouldn't magically go away when the car warms up, but I know very little about the nuances of that car - I've intentionally avoided them.
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Jan 10, 2013 18:22
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Viggen posted:I just don't understand the variable ticking, and it shouldn't magically go away when the car warms up, but I know very little about the nuances of that car - I've intentionally avoided them. Yeah. Good call. I mean it's a nice car and I like it but holy poo poo the little problems just add up and up and up. I've got my eyes out for a nice FIRST GEN 9-3 but they are ridiculously impossible to find in my neck of the woods.
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Jan 10, 2013 19:37
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Dun, dun, dun.. Another window regulator bites the dust-aaah.. Fortunately, the PNP 3 miles away from my house just got a 99 9-5 in. I'm going to strip that bitch of a theft alarm, SID, couple speakers, window regulator, seatbelt harness since the plastic came off of one. Also a factory stereo and harness. That should complete my trip. Oh, and an orange fuse. Why? Because, gently caress it, that's why.
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Jan 10, 2013 20:15
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keykey posted:Oh, and an orange fuse. Why? Because, gently caress it, that's why. Orange You can repair those in about 4 minutes. Pop the top, re-solder the tines, and check for any bits cold soldered or weak. I have at least 5 spares now. Unless you have a Tech 2, a stereo that isn't unmarried won't do you any good. If you don't need it, how much for the center console speaker, provided it is a "pristigue" (Harmon/Kardon)? If you see any viable passive seatbelt clip/restraints (the plastic around the metal buckle), pick me up one - or the whole bit? The NG900 has broken plastic and every so often it jabs you in the thumb if you're not paying attention. I'd just epoxy/fill it, but it's 10f outside, so that's not going to happen before the car heads off to California. Thanks!
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Jan 10, 2013 21:03
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Viggen posted:Unless you have a Tech 2, a stereo that isn't unmarried won't do you any good. And even if you have access to Tech-2, you better write down the VIN of you the car you rip it out of.
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Jan 11, 2013 10:26
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Sir Cornelius posted:And even if you have access to Tech-2, you better write down the VIN of you the car you rip it out of. ..or just snag one from an NG900 and put a coin tray in the rest of the empty space. 
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Jan 12, 2013 00:52
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Buddy of mine bought (current) car #6 today. Roughly $850. Only problem is the broken headlamp wipers. 9000 CSE for $850 (and it's Silver!) Swedish bastards get all the deals.
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Jan 14, 2013 00:36
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Venetir posted:Hi Saab people! I was hoping for some advice on purchasing a Saab and not screwing myself over. I found an '89 900 Turbo Convertible in my area for $1800 with 183,xxx miles on it. It runs well with two exceptions: the belt that hooks to the A/C compressor makes this wonderful squeaking sound (I'm guessing it's loose), and the idle gutters out for just a second when stopping/taking it out of gear. The exterior is in great condition with no dents or rust; the interior has cracked leather on the front seats and some cracking on the dash. The convertible top is in great condition with no rips/cracks/etc. It will need new tires sometime soon. ?? I think you're talking about my Saab I just sold last week! Are you in Idaho? ziasquinn fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jan 15, 2013 |
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Jan 14, 2013 03:32
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:?? I think you're talking about my Saab I just sold last week! Are you in Idaho? Why, indeed I am! Small internet world! Once this awesomely horrible winter passes I'm planning on fixing it up and posting the project here. Now you can follow along!
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Jan 14, 2013 07:55
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Viggen posted:Buddy of mine bought (current) car #6 today. Roughly $850. Only problem is the broken headlamp wipers. 9000 CSE for $850 (and it's Silver!) Sweet deal! I've always really liked silver non-Aero 9000's. For some reason they just look so right with the black bumper moldings and everything. It reminds me of my old CSE, except mine was forest green. I picked it up for US$550 and all it needed was a few tyres - luckily I already had a set of Super Aeros & tyres I was able to put straight on. It only blew a single radiator hose the year I owned it, amazing to drive, didn't bat an eyelid at 1,500km trips, but it did blow a bit of smoke. Oh look, it had a broken headlight wiper too.  God I miss it. But more importantly, there is a complete set of black 9000 Aero seats for US$42 two hours drive from me. I think I need to do it.
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Jan 14, 2013 09:28
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Sabmo posted:But more importantly, there is a complete set of black 9000 Aero seats for US$42 two hours drive from me. I think I need to do it. Buy them. BUY THEM!  SAABDog demands it. I'd fix the futon but she'd get pissed at me for moving her. 
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Jan 14, 2013 21:31
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You could probably more than make your money back by selling your original seats on to a VW Camper guy. Seems to be quite popular for some reason.
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Jan 14, 2013 21:44
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Looks like I might be getting a 2004 Saab 9-5 Turbo here soon, from a local dealer. Anything specific I should double check next time I look at it? I already know I need to double check the suspension, and I'm having them drop the oil pan to see if its sludged AT ALL, since I didn't see the PCV Update #6 installed, although I might be blind. Everything else looks good, no weird error codes.
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Jan 15, 2013 01:47
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Your Dead Gay Son posted:Looks like I might be getting a 2004 Saab 9-5 Turbo here soon, from a local dealer. Anything specific I should double check next time I look at it? I already know I need to double check the suspension, and I'm having them drop the oil pan to see if its sludged AT ALL, since I didn't see the PCV Update #6 installed, although I might be blind. Everything else looks good, no weird error codes. 2004s don't need a pcv fix, they have it built in from the factory. see https://www.mitt-eget.com/saab/information_ccv_en.shtml
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Jan 15, 2013 02:21
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Oh really?? I thought that only the 2005 models had it built in. If that's the case, that's awesome! Don't have to waste anyones time then. I appreciate the link, I was looking for a good source to explain what the gently caress was going on with that whole deal, since I only knew the symptoms more than anything.
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Jan 15, 2013 03:00
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I just realised that the page was only updated into 2005, so it doesn't cover pcv #6 (april 2006). You should be fine, saab only covered 99-03 under the extended warranty.
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Jan 15, 2013 03:14
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Johnny Cache Hit posted:OK, I've bitched about my 2003 9-3 (second generation, not the original) before, but for once I'm not posting about an electrical gremlin I'm pretty sure my 06 9-3 at 56K was making that same noise and I found it to be a low power steering fluid issue. It was the most expensive PS fluid I've ever purchased but it fixed the problem. Could be worth checking on yours.
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Jan 15, 2013 20:02
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low power steering fluid is usually a chewbacca noise when you turn the wheel. It was with my 06 9-3 anyway.
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Jan 15, 2013 20:08
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astropika posted:low power steering fluid is usually a chewbacca noise when you turn the wheel. My 2000 was doing the whine, and I filled the reserve to 'full' with cheap dextron iv. That was uh.. September. I should probably flush it. Oops. Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jan 16, 2013 |
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Jan 15, 2013 20:12
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astropika posted:low power steering fluid is usually a chewbacca noise when you turn the wheel.
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Jan 16, 2013 00:01
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Got that 2004 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon. I'll put up some pictures tomorrow, but its pretty swank. Interior and exterior are in almost perfect condition, minus some incredibly light scuffs on the back rear bumper. Took it to the Saab Mechanic to inspect it, needs a headgasket in its near future, but its not mixing fluids yet. Ride is great, probably the newest/nicest car I've ever owned. Heated AND Air-Cooled Seats? drat. Weird getting used to an Auto again though...
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Jan 16, 2013 04:03
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Added on to the thermostat project on the 2000 -- as I poked around, I noticed that she didn't have the PCV update. So I enlisted a friend's help and we knocked out both jobs yesterday. That oil trap wasn't the easiest thing in the world to remove/replace, but overall the PCV stuff wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be when I first got the kit and all the hoses. Thermostat wasn't too bad, either (thanks Viggen). So far, so good. Everything seems a lot smoother and the operating temp is back to normal. Now I'll go back to ogling that red 900 posted earlier!
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Jan 17, 2013 14:47
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Already on to the next thing: spark plugs. To keep this short, are NGK BCPR7ES-11's a good match for a base 2000 9-3? My searching tells me yes, but Advance Auto's online tool is telling me no. Conveniently, they say only the $12 platinumiridiumfancy plugs are matches for this car. It was the same thing with my Saturn -- there was a $2 NGK copper plug that was the go-to choice, but stores/dealers always steered you toward the more expensive stuff. Go figure.
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Jan 18, 2013 14:34
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pjhalifax posted:Already on to the next thing: spark plugs. To keep this short, are NGK BCPR7ES-11's a good match for a base 2000 9-3? My searching tells me yes, but Advance Auto's online tool is telling me no. Conveniently, they say only the $12 platinumiridiumfancy plugs are matches for this car. As I understand there are basically two camps that have formed - the first says that the platinum OEM NGK plugs are the only ones you should ever put in because the engine management system depends on them for knock detection etc, and the other camp says as long as you put in a comparable resistor plug you'll be OK. http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/sparkplugsdi.htm has some more info - I think at the end of the day you don't need the super fancy triple platinum chocolate coated whatever plugs, just get a copper NGK and be done with it.
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Jan 18, 2013 16:10
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Thanks - I think I'll give copper a try. Two camps, many arguments! I spent way too much time reading about this. This is kind of random but I thought I'd mention it here because it's relevant to the plugs. I'm learning about the DIC in the 9-3, and I'm assuming the P1312/P1334 codes I've seen simultaneously are related to either the cassette or the plugs. New DICs are around $500 at places like eeuroparts nowadays, I hear mixed reviews of the aftermarket parts, and I don't seem to have many SAAB buddies around to swap DICs with (that sounds wrong). I saw a few mentions of people getting genuine SAAB DICs from CarQuest for $230. (part # 52-2117 "Carquest Ignition Coils") Anticipating a DIC failure down the road, and worried about the prices I'm seeing, I gambled at my local Carquest and ordered one for $220 after tax. Picked it up today and as far as I can tell it's the real deal: made in Sweden, SEM sticker, TK3.7 with 1149 date code, "SAAB" and "SEM AMAL Sweden" stamped into the metal. So if you're in the market for a new DIC, it seems like a good deal. I ordered yesterday and it was at my local store this morning. I hate throwing money/parts at the car...but I'm guessing we're on the original DIC or at least a long-ago replaced one. Here's to not buying anything else in 2013.
pjhalifax fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 17:11
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Johnny Cache Hit posted:As I understand there are basically two camps that have formed - the first says that the platinum OEM NGK plugs are the only ones you should ever put in because the engine management system depends on them for knock detection etc, and the other camp says as long as you put in a comparable resistor plug you'll be OK. It's perfectly fine as long as you use a compatible resistor plug. It's just safer to tell people 'put in what they tell you to', as a lot of folks don't really understand the intricacies of the H engine. Not using a resistor plug WILL damage your IDM and can cause other issues. Personally, I use BCPR7ES and BCPR6ES (the -11 just notes the 1.1mm pre-gap). Most folks will agree that you're just wasting money for the platinum and iridium depending on what car you have, as sure, you may get another 10k miles or so from them, but they're more than doubling the cost off the plug. They're quite easy to replace, too. For tuned Aeros, you're going to want what your car has been tuned for - but until you are "Stage 2", this isn't an issue. The DI (IDM) isn't a magical device that just dies, we really need to get people to stop perpetuating this idea. The first cars to use it didn't have the monitoring abilities of the Trionic cars, and it was something new and scary. Most people bitching about them dying are running on at least 10 year old boxes at the time. There were two batch ranges in 2000 that were prematurly failing. They were replaced for free. I've had exactly one start failing over a range of 7 cars that use them - and it was a 2001 date code (CEL came on in 2010 or 2011, can't remember). It never left me stranded, I just ended up sticking it in one of the old cars that don't monitor the DI that was getting parted out anyhow. Now, SAAB vs NON-SAAB IDM is a bit of a sticky issue. I've always been of the mind to use the OEM IDM, but this last one I replaced I got a WELLS branded one for about half the cost. It's been fine so far. E: You can get some drat good deals from RockAuto closeouts. If you haven't got a scantool yet, I can't recommend this enough. It's not as good as an ELM327 attached to a portable computer, but it's still incredibly useful and fits easily next to your manuals in the glovebox. Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 18:06
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I had one completely die because it cracked and all the oil leaked out. My wife tried to leave in the morning and the car was only running on 2-3 cylinders. Pulled the cassette out and there was oil on the spark plugs and white around the crack where the arcing was happening. Put one in from eeuroparts and was away to the races.
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Jan 18, 2013 18:23
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I've never seen a cracked 55559955 that wasn't overtorqued or dropped. Strange weather patterns or any other reason for it to just magically poof overnight? I'm not claiming that hasn't happened. I've just never SEEN that happen before. Fake Edit Edit: Sweet jesus, I have part numbers memorized. It's time for counseling. Real Edit: Anyone done any eLSD fluid replacement in the XWDs yet? BorgWarner says 'leave it the hell alone', and I see tons of these reports. It also is shown in WIS as a maintenance item. Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 18:49
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West SAAB Story posted:I've never seen a cracked 55559955 that wasn't overtorqued or dropped. Strange weather patterns or any other reason for it to just magically poof overnight? I'm not claiming that hasn't happened. I've just never SEEN that happen before. Cracked at the plug area, down the bottom. Ran ok for a few months then died. It was a common(?) enough occurance on Saabcentral that I could find a thread about it. Who knows, it could have been dropped during the engine swap, but it ran for months before it died.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:33
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blindjoe posted:Who knows, it could have been dropped during the engine swap, but it ran for months before it died. Huh. Any idea if it was a v3.4? Those were the older style. v3.7 is the most common now, 3.6 was around 2003 or so.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:34
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No idea, from my 2002 linear. don't think it was stock.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:35
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I don't think it would have taken months to notice the oil was missing due to the nature of the IDM zapping the crap out of the plugs when you turn off the car. Strange, but good to know that it happened. The biggest problem I have with the SAAB forums is that you really don't know who sucked at maintenance and blames the car, who ended up with a dud, and whatever else.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:43
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I asked my dad what exactly was wrong with the 5-speed Saab 99 that's sitting in my dad's yard. It turns out the water pump is broken. It also turns out that changing the water pump on a B engine is a nightmare requiring a special, expensive pump tool and pressing bearings onto shafts. 
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Jan 21, 2013 05:44
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Looking at a '77 SAAB 99 - guy did a lot of improvements like headers, new exhaust, electronic ignition, higher compression head, turbo 4 speed and more. It has 86k on the clock, but it has some rust through the sill of the driver's side door and front passenger wheel arch. Got him down to $2k, but I'd have to ship it from SD to ND, so I think I might pass.
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Jan 21, 2013 05:45
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atomicthumbs posted:I asked my dad what exactly was wrong with the 5-speed Saab 99 that's sitting in my dad's yard. As long as it's been sitting, it's 'yard art'. Francis Baconator posted:Looking at a '77 SAAB 99 He's got quite a bit of cash into that. Now if it was a '78 99, I'd fight you for it. There was a 'basically the shell was there and the motor would be rebuildable' one on eBay. Ended up going for like $3k  
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Jan 21, 2013 19:36
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