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Ola posted:For your commute? Do you have a turkey for lunch and work at a space station with a "bring your own suit"-policy? Shoes, laptop, tools, bad weather riding gear (it's western Washington!), extra oil w/ funnel (it's a Buell!), light groceries, and a pack of beer fill my panniers pretty comfortably.
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Jan 10, 2013 00:44
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clutchpuck posted:a pack of beer I guess my job isn't as stressful as I thought it was.
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Jan 10, 2013 00:56
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Love the teetotaler attitude. Beer is a delicious treat, not a stress reliever.
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Jan 10, 2013 01:32
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clutchpuck posted:Love the teetotaler attitude. Beer is a delicious treat, not a stress reliever. No, that's why I carry a flask of bourbon.
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Jan 10, 2013 04:20
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Safety Dance posted:No, that's why I carry a flask of bourbon. Ahem, this is for emergencies, for instance if you get caught out in a blizzard
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Jan 10, 2013 04:26
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drat lot of surprise blizzards we seem to be having lately, eh chaps *hic*
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Jan 10, 2013 04:26
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Didn't do much today bar charge the battery, tomorrow the whole loom has to be checked for damage/shorts. Still at least its in the house and not outside in the rain or the bird/birdpoop infested shed 
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Jan 11, 2013 02:33
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What kind of bike is that and where are more pictures of it? 
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Jan 11, 2013 06:21
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Wondering the same thing. Looks like a gsxr engine, gsxr front end, but honda cbr rear wheel?
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Jan 11, 2013 06:43
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It's a Cee Bee Arr Nahn Hunner'd Fay-er Blayde. Street fightered.
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Jan 11, 2013 07:55
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Saga posted:It's a Cee Bee Arr Nahn Hunner'd Fay-er Blayde. Street fightered. ding ding, I posted pics of it before, it belongs to my mate. gsxr1000 front end and tailpiece, 1996 cbr in the middle, motorgadget clocks, LSL levers, Gilles (i think) rearsets, ohlins etc.. he can post its long and lurid history someday  turns out the main lead from the battery negative to the starter motor had vibrated off and the whole loom was earthing through a very narrow wire that had been run to the body of the R/R, which up and melted, leaving the bike lacking any earth at all. put it back on with some locktite on the bolt, now it starts up real nice. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Jd0wb9nvE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Jd0wb9nvE
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Jan 11, 2013 19:56
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The GSXR subframe was throwing me off something fierce. Nice bike 
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Jan 11, 2013 21:35
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I hosed it up. That's what I did today. Took a lunch break and figured that'd be enough time to install some aftermarket grips real quick like. Pulled the stocks off without much issue. Wiggle the new Driven D3 grips on and:  Dat gap... Now, I don't actually plan on re-using the stock ends. I picked up some LED bar-end turn signals that I want to use in place of those anyway. Lets just cram the wires in without worrying about actual hookup and see how those fit in place for now.  gently caress. I don't like the stock mirror/housing placement anyway. They're a bit too close together and I figure if I muscle the grip I just put on there back off, I can loosen the housing and only put the grip on as far as the end of the handlebar. Then scoot the housing down the bar the inch or so to where it fits. That will solve my gap, and bring the mirrors out a little further which would be a bonus because most of what I see right now is my own shoulders, and I have to lean out a little to get a look at who's about to run up my rear end when I'm parked at a stoplight. To duplicate on the throttle side I'll need to get the tube off and cut it down a little. New grips != 20 minute install after all. Alternatives that don't involve relocating the clutch and brake housings further down the bars are welcome. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 22:46
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 Removed the intake flapper, charcoal canister, exup valve, exchanged the coolant for distilled water + water wetter, and changed the oil. (now I'm looking for how people mount the stock gauges in a street fighter setup...)
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Jan 12, 2013 09:38
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Let the winter project list begin. A few days back I installed a pigtail for a battery tender. Quick and easy and I have it quickly tuckable on the throttle side, behind the side cover.  ToDo list today includes: New grips, LED bar ends to supplement (not replace) existing front signals, and a throttle lock. Should be easy except for the LED bar ends which will require removal of the handle bars and a small hole drilled/sealed to get the wires out. This will mark the first time I've had to fishtape wire on a motorcycle.  So long stock grips. I hardly knew ye.  A blow dryer, a long narrow flat head screwdriver (it's actually the one from my carb adjustment tool so it's even motorcycle intended), and a little elbow grease and they're off.  These Driven grips are a seriously tight fit, and they're flexible due to the pvc not being reinforced by any plastic. So cramming them on the bars took quite a lot of turning, huffing and puffing, and a ton of hairspray to work as a lube that won't continue to be a lube. This is where I noticed the problem of the gap in the previously slightly panicked and annoyed post. Also, the LED end is just sort of floating there. It doesn't lock into place at all, and the 5 line badly translated to English instructions don't make it clear how that's supposed to work out. I know I can snug it up by pulling the cables tight, but I'd like something besides two small gauge low voltage wires holding the bar end on. So the simple grip swap turns into a bit more of a thing... I loosened the bolts to the control housing so I could shuffle it further down the bar. Huffed and puffed as I worked the extremely tight fitting grip down to the end, and that shift's the whole assembly and grip down to the very end of the bar.  Looks good. As a bonus it puts my mirror stems outside another inch or so, which will hopefully help out with getting a great view of my shoulders, but being unable to see the car pulling up behind me. I actually pulled it about an 1/8th" over the bars, so I can slide the LED turn signal into the grip to help hold it in place. A grip holding onto the bar end is the exact opposite of how this is supposed to work, but I don't really have another option that I can think of. Good thing those grips are so drat snug I guess.  Rinse/Repeat for the throttle side, but with the added step of using a tube cutter and taking the inch off the throttle tube so it wasn't just sticking out. ---- That was a lot more work than anticipated but hey, one thing down. Onto the throttle lock. I debated with myself for about 30 minutes on if I should install it straight to the throttle tube instead of over the grip, but ultimately decided that even if I could custom cut an extra thick spacer it would mean I uneven mirrors and controls. With the clutch side shifted down an inch, and the thickness of the throttle lock negating the need to shift the throttle side down at all. Also, the removal of the throttle lock would mean a huge bit of exposed throttle tube, and a quick bolt-on like this should be able to be removed quickly if desired. So I decided to cut the throttle tube, and install the grip like normal. Then install the throttle lock right over the top of the grip as intended.  New grips done. LED bar ends.... going to need to wait until tomorrow, I had not expected just the grips to be such a hassle.  While messing around with all this today my mail man stopped by. He saw the reindeer strapped to the Softail and asked if I had been in the local toys for tots run this December. I said yes and that was why it was strapped to the bike, and it turned out he rode it too. Chatted about bikes for a bit and then he left me this package:  Rusty ol crash bars from e-bay. Got a pretty great deal on them and look forward to soaking and scrubbing all that rust away before powdercoating.
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Jan 12, 2013 10:08
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BlackMK4 posted:
drat I thought that bike looked good before, you need to run it fairing-less even if you just fab up some sheet metal to mount the gauges.
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Jan 12, 2013 16:06
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Triumph should be offering fairing-less versions of the Daytona. Definitely a looker in comparison to the Street/Speedies. Hitting about 60 degrees today in upstate New York, horray! Time to give my zx6r its first oil change, on a street getting flooded with melting slush and mud. 
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Jan 12, 2013 17:19
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the walkin dude posted:Triumph should be offering fairing-less versions of the Daytona. Definitely a looker in comparison to the Street/Speedies. Meanwhile in another thread... Snowdens Secret posted:Originally a streetfighter was a superbike that had been smashed, with the fairing destroyed, the bare minimum (lights, dash cluster) re-installed and dirtbike bars thrown on. If that happens to a bike that looks like this:
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Jan 12, 2013 17:34
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Bahaha, this thing begs to be ridden like a retard with no fairings. I love it. On the other hand, it's 30* out and gently caress it's cold.
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Jan 12, 2013 18:47
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Just did an oil change on my '04 636 - and learned something new in the process. Ninja zx6r's, at least some of them, have to be "burped" via the oil filter - or the oil pump won't work and new oil won't circulate through the engine. I finished doing the change and started up the bike. The oil light didn't go off, and I observed through the engine oil window that the oil was just sitting there and after 30-45 seconds I turned the bike off (the engine was being extra noisy too). Turned the bike on again for another 30 seconds, same stuff. I remembered seeing "oil lights not turning off" and "burping" somewhere on the Kawiforums so I checked that out. Turns out the oil filter installation can create an air bubble between itself and the engine, and that causes the oil pump to not function. Eek. So I had to turn the engine on, back out the oil filter a bit and let some oil to spill over, and that turned off the oil light. Engine ran smoother and quieter too. Took the bike out for a ride to ensure all was functioning good. That kinda stuff's scary. What if I wasn't so meticulous and observant; I would've ended up damaging my engine with lack of oil!
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Jan 12, 2013 20:36
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Thats why I usually prefill my oil filters. A bit of oil for the gasket and then pour a bunch in to soak the filter. Seems to fix the air bubble problem most of the time, and get the oil light off a lot faster.
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Jan 12, 2013 21:09
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I've been taught to always pre fill the oil filter, on any car or bike. Just seems like a logical thing to do.
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Jan 12, 2013 21:47
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Went to take the TURBO on it's maiden voyage after calling it my own. Stopped by a friend's house to show it off in all it's glory, went to leave and just like in looney tunes, the ignition barfed out springs, plates and little copper pieces all over his driveway. Welp. The bottom retainer thingy's tabs are all sheared off, so new ignition + keys $50 from the fabulous ebay.
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Jan 12, 2013 22:55
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Where's GnarlyCharlie and his "key?" At least I think that's who has the little ball of wires on a connector that just shorts out the necessary contacts.
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Jan 12, 2013 23:33
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quote:Pre-fill the oil filter when changing to prevent air bubbles I've never heard this and have changed the oil on loads of bikes and cars. Never had a problem, but it's nice to be made aware that the potential is there. This is something I will do from now on :O Thank you guys. Halo_4am posted:I actually pulled it about an 1/8th" over the bars, so I can slide the LED turn signal into the grip to help hold it in place. A grip holding onto the bar end is the exact opposite of how this is supposed to work, but I don't really have another option that I can think of. Good thing those grips are so drat snug I guess. The more I think about this the less comfortable I am with the idea. For the clutch side I can get a rubber ring and cut to size to fit inside the bar and around the stem to ease my mind. For the throttle side though that would just bind the bar end to the handlebar instead of letting it spin freely with the grip/throttle tube. Thoughts on some kind of toothed gasket/ring I can use to bind better to the grip... maybe? I guess I could leave a small gap on the throttle side and leave the end floating off the grip like a typical bar end works, but since there's no overlap at all on these like typical bar ends something would still need to be done to prevent moisture from finding it's way into the bars. :edit: These are what I'm trying to make work here. The original ends are press-fit so there's nothing existing in the bar to secure them to. I think they're intended more for 1" bars and to rest slightly inside, and hook to existing mount points like I've seen on various Suzuki's that have a thread in the middle to hold the bar end. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 13, 2013 |
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Jan 12, 2013 23:56
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SaNChEzZ posted:Went to take the TURBO on it's maiden voyage after calling it my own. Stopped by a friend's house to show it off in all it's glory, went to leave and just like in looney tunes, the ignition barfed out springs, plates and little copper pieces all over his driveway. Welp. The bottom retainer thingy's tabs are all sheared off, so new ignition + keys $50 from the fabulous ebay. 
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Jan 13, 2013 02:12
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Took my bike to the garage to wash it, and check the tyre pressures (which I'd neglected to do for four months, because "can't find the pressure thingie but they feel alright"  . Back tire alone was at less than half recommended pressure. At least this goes some way towards explaining its under-reading speedo!
Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jan 13, 2013 |
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Jan 13, 2013 15:42
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So last I left these had arrived: Time to rid the rust. The tools:  God dammit... the bolt/spacer/nut that came in there is totally seized up with rust. Spent about an hour alternating between a couple wrenches and a wrench/ratchet trying to free it without any luck. gently caress it, I'll get a new bolt tomorrow. I just cut it off... The tools (revised):  Step 1: Surface rust. Easily solved with a vinegar bath and sitting on my rear end for about 2 hours.  Result: Pretty good. The really deep rust and a lot of the stuff around the welds is still very much there though.  I'll take care of that with some steel wool pads and a grinding wheel on my cordless drill in a bit. First thing though is to wash all the acid off the metal so it doesn't continue going to work long after it's bath. Step 2: Rinse off and thoroughly dry. WD-40 is great for this, but I opted for an oven set to 200 degrees.  Bake for 10 minutes or until golden brown and delicious. Step 3: Scrub at all that deeper rust with steel wool pads, metal brushes, and grinding wheel attached to low rpm cordless drill.  Not bad. Still have a lot of stuff in the narrow crevices that I'm having a hard time getting at, and a lot of really tiny little specs of rust/pits/etc. Step 4: Tiny and fast rpm wire brush attached to a dremel  Result:  Ehhhh I could mess with it a little more, but I think that's about as good as they're going to get. There's only so much you can do when there's pitting like that. Step 5: Polish to shine    That spacer looks a little rough yet, but what the hell I'll toss it in there until I can come up with a new one. Found a metric bolt that will work to replace the rusty crap this shipped with. The rest of the bolts can be re-used from what's on the bike already. Step 6: Install  Step 7: Realize you want it black to match the frame, and plan to powder coat eventually negating most this work Ah well, at least they look shiny in the meantime, and I can put my feet up somewhere on the highway.
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Jan 14, 2013 07:40
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We're having a cold snap here in the bay area. I got paranoid about the distilled water in the '82 Goldwing, so I drained it just now. I'm probably dumb. But I also found a thing of Zerex Japanese vehicle coolant in a cabinet a few days ago so now's as good a time as any to swap.
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Jan 14, 2013 08:25
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this is awesome, and I want to do this to my zx6r. the stock gauges make my eyes hurt with their pallid yellow. $60 for a soldering job from the website indicated on the photo.
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Jan 15, 2013 20:18
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the walkin dude posted:this is awesome, and I want to do this to my zx6r. the stock gauges make my eyes hurt with their pallid yellow. $60 for a soldering job from the website indicated on the photo. drat you're colorblind too, that's clearly green. Kidding aside kind of cool looking especially if it's a easy solder job. Is it something you could do yourself?
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Jan 15, 2013 23:37
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DIY instructions are at http://www.bluegauges.com/step_by_step_gauges.htm ... I'd rather pay someone to do it instead of loving poo poo up by accident.
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Jan 16, 2013 00:37
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the walkin dude posted:DIY instructions are at http://www.bluegauges.com/step_by_step_gauges.htm If you get your bike to Atlanta, I'll do it for $beer. e: I'll go to you for $sv650 Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jan 16, 2013 |
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Jan 16, 2013 05:08
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For $sv650? Cleaning the grunge off the zx6r. 
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Jan 16, 2013 18:56
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I've been spending a lot of time at a coffee shop studying for the CPA exams. I've become THAT guy that rides his bike to and from a coffee shop. My poor, poor b-king deserves better. I just felt like I needed to express my self loathing somewhere.
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Jan 17, 2013 00:47
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:I've been spending a lot of time at a coffee shop studying for the CPA exams. I've become THAT guy that rides his bike to and from a coffee shop. My poor, poor b-king deserves better. I just felt like I needed to express my self loathing somewhere. Seedy biker bars sell coffee, too. Ride that thing into the sticks and get a beer (then coffees). I hear all the hi-viz gear makes you a non-target to the Real Bikers in the bar.
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Jan 17, 2013 08:59
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:I've been spending a lot of time at a coffee shop studying for the CPA exams. I've become THAT guy that rides his bike to and from a coffee shop. My poor, poor b-king deserves better. I just felt like I needed to express my self loathing somewhere. You're right, it does deserve better. Have you considered a ducati? 
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Jan 17, 2013 09:18
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Dulatte
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Jan 17, 2013 13:50
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Didn't actually work on it today (that'll be Monday) but I've got a chain and sprockets in the mail. Got a pair of JT Sprockets for $30 after using my $25 Amazon gift card. Huzzah for free prime shipping!  I'll finally get to use the chain breaker/riveter I've yet to open, too. Oh, I guess I'm going to change the oil. That's a thing.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:02
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Pope Mobile posted:I'll finally get to use the chain breaker/riveter I've yet to open, too. Be sure to grind the head of the rivet off before pressing out the old pin, it'll make it a million times easier.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:58
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