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http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=113196 MG Tallgeese II confirmed.
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# ? Jan 18, 2013 13:42 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:18 |
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TaurusOxford posted:http://www.gunjap.net/site/?p=113196 C'mon... get to III
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# ? Jan 18, 2013 15:44 |
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Dre2Dee2 posted:C'mon... get to III I would happily buy all three.
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# ? Jan 18, 2013 16:07 |
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This is the coolest Zeong I've ever seen.
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# ? Jan 18, 2013 19:53 |
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Bimmi posted:Very noice(shk): As shameless as it is, it's not bad.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 01:12 |
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Silentman0 posted:As shameless as it is, it's not bad. I always liked the White Unicorn/Amuro Zeta Colors, not gonna lie. The problem is any kit that deals with them is invariably going to be reliant on stickers or decals, usually stickers. So unless you're brilliant with masking tape or can print your own waterslides in the proper colors, it's gonna look like rear end. I'd may as well just get a regular Zeta kit and repaint it myself at that point. Also, I have to admit I'm not really keen on the Ver. Ka/Endless Waltz version of the Tallgeese. I think its the gold trim that they added that weren't in the original lineart in addition to the standard Katoki complaints. Though it's strange because apparently Katoki was the original mecha designer of the Tallgeese, and yet there's still something off about the model kit's proportions. On another note, my order from HLJ came in today. Picked up a Robot Damashii VF-25F Super Messiah Alto Colors and a Yamato 1/60 Perfect Trance VF-19S. If anyone's interested in either I'll post some thoughts and pictures. Haven't had a chance to crack open the VF-19S yet, so that could either be a treat or a nightmare. Goes either way with Yamato. The RD VF-25F on the other hand is pretty nice for an older Robot Damashii figure, though the right thigh armor likes to pop off if you look at it cross.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 01:27 |
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Mecha Gojira posted:Also, I have to admit I'm not really keen on the Ver. Ka/Endless Waltz version of the Tallgeese. I think its the gold trim that they added that weren't in the original lineart in addition to the standard Katoki complaints. Though it's strange because apparently Katoki was the original mecha designer of the Tallgeese, and yet there's still something off about the model kit's proportions. I actually like the gold trim. I think it breaks up the white just enough to make it more interesting. As for the proportions, I think they look fantastic. What about them look off to you?
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 02:02 |
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Actually, stickers can look quite good if skillfully applied: I got to examine a couple of very nicely done RGs recently - no paint apart from panel lines, each sticker perfectly placed - and they looked fantastic. Like high-end action figures, sure, but really slick and impressive. I've decided I'm going to build my RG Zeta this way. Generally when I snap out a kit I do it with the mindset of "I'm gonna paint this someday" (which of course NEVER HAPPENS) so this time it's just going to be straight out of the box, lined and stickered and done. I'm also going to try to go for as little parts cleanup as possible, i.e. no sanding, so it should be an interesting experiment (which may determine whether I ever bother doing any more of these things) The MG Tallgeese looks weird to me too. Not bad, just weird. Something to do with the comically oversized thighs, I think. Count me also as one who much prefers the original color scheme to the new one. It's a good bet they'll flog the poo poo out of this mold, though, so maybe we'll get a TV version limited release somewhere down the line. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jan 19, 2013 |
# ? Jan 19, 2013 14:48 |
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The best thing they could do with the mold is a MG Leo. Do it Bandai.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 19:23 |
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Bimmi hit it on the head with the giant thighs, but it's more than that. Everything about the design looks like it's been stretched laterally, making the Tallgeese seem stockier than I remember. It's not just the legs, but the arms, the torso, and even the Roman Mohawk on its helmet. They all just seem just slightly too wide. I wonder if it's just the camera playing tricks on me, though. Oh, plus I like the giant eagle that's usually engraved on the shield that the lineart and the Robot Damashii have over that tiny one the MG version is shown with. But I'm sure the decal set comes with both. I agree, though, that the best thing they could do with that Tallgeese mold is make Leo kits. By the way, the Yamato 1/60 VF-19S Emerald Force Color is hands down the best Macross toy I've ever had the privilege to play around with. Seriously, it not only has the amazing engineering that you'd expect in a third generation Yamato Valkyrie, but this figure is practically flawless in terms of quality control. While you'd hope that'd normally be the case with something this ridiculously expensive, this is Yamato we're talking about, but damned if they didn't get it right this time. It's just a shame that they got it right on the VF-19 from 7 and not the YF-19 from Plus, though.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 19:45 |
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The Tallgeese's head is what gets me the most, what I liked about the original is how basic and grunt-like it looked, it was basically just a dome with a slit visor. I feel like they made the MG look more gundam-y to appeal to more people or something. The changes make for an almost perfect the Tallgeese II, but it doesn't look like the original's head at all.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 20:58 |
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Xy Hapu posted:The Tallgeese's head is what gets me the most, what I liked about the original is how basic and grunt-like it looked, it was basically just a dome with a slit visor. I feel like they made the MG look more gundam-y to appeal to more people or something. The changes make for an almost perfect the Tallgeese II, but it doesn't look like the original's head at all. I see what you mean, the visor gets thinner in the middle to make it look a little more like a pair of eyes. I think it looks a lot more like a visor when it has the reflective green behind it though. I'm gonna pick one up when I have the money, I love the design and I prefer it over the II and the III so there's no need to wait for them to come out. Its a wonderful mix of sorta utalitarian style design with enough little fiddly bits to be interesting to mess around with.
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# ? Jan 19, 2013 22:08 |
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The Tallgeese's visor is Gundam-y just by existing, its real head is a square camera eye like the Leos that were developed from it
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# ? Jan 21, 2013 01:34 |
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Just wanted to put this here as an example of heavy weathering that comes really close to going over-the-top (and maybe has in a few places) but is still restrained and skillful enough that it works: I would kill to be able to do effects like this.
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# ? Jan 21, 2013 04:52 |
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Geez, the edges on that are so "worn" it looks more like papercraft than plastic.
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# ? Jan 21, 2013 06:14 |
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Here's another heavy wear job that is just about perfect. Note how multiple paint applications are used to create streaks and staining, color fading, and shadow effects. The extremely fine chipping damage looks realistic and imparts a strong sense of scale, and there are even specific weathering cues that suggest the subject's amphibious nature. It looks dirty and used-up without being a basket case, which is not an easy balance to achieve: I've nothing against the "clean" look most painters seem to prefer, but I LOVE poo poo like this. Don't see it done well too often.
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# ? Jan 21, 2013 14:51 |
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Finally made it into the big leagues with MG God Gundam, though as usual I've managed to get ink everywhere except in the drat lines and I can't for the life of me seem to take a picture without it being all blurry. Still, that doesn't really matter since my hand glows with an awesome power! It's loud roar tells me to grasp victory! To anyone else who uses the sakura pens for detail - is there anything I can do to make the ink actually dry and not just smudge everywhere? It seems like after 10 hours of sitting it should be okay to lightly grasp parts without pulling half the drat lines back off the plastic. I think I'll do the MG Wing Gundam next; I checked out the manual and the runners and it looks like it's going to be a pretty great kit.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 07:26 |
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Did you wash the plastic before assembly? Nothing sticks very well unless you do
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 07:30 |
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Fauxtool posted:Did you wash the plastic before assembly? Nothing sticks very well unless you do No, I didn't. Do I need to use soap and scrub each piece, or is immersing the runners for a bit enough to do the trick?
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 07:38 |
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Oblique Angle posted:No, I didn't. Do I need to use soap and scrub each piece, or is immersing the runners for a bit enough to do the trick? Use a relatively safe degreaser like dish washing soap and immerse the sprues while scrubbing them with a toothbrush. Should do the trick.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 07:45 |
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The mold release agent is why the models feel slightly greasy and will prevent any inks or paints from adhering properly. Oils from your hands do the same thing but not as much. Most people submerge and soak in warm soapy water then rinse in clean water and dry. I do it in my bathtub and rinse with the shower. Air dry and come back in an hour or so.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 07:45 |
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There's also some stuff called Plastic-prep you can buy that helps remove the oils and is supposed to make parts less static-prone. I mix some in with my soap when washing runners. Also I give dirty parts a dip in it prior to painting to help get dust and oils off from sanding and handling. I have enough painting issues, it's nice to not have my primer come off in chunks due to bad adhesion.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 09:45 |
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Come on Bandai, I know you are going to make it anyway so release a HGUC FA Unicorn already.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 09:50 |
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A simple alcohol wipe will get parts clean enough if you're just pen-lining, and is also good for removing excess ink. I do not think much of Micron pens as a modeling tool. The ink is too black and glossy, and just a touch too permanent when it dries. Gundam Markers all the way for me.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 11:11 |
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Thanks for all the advice. Will washing the parts make them any less glossy and plastic-y looking? If I were to take up any kind of painting, it would be to make my models matte; I've really come to dislike the way they look as-is. On that note, an inexpensive airbrush was linked earlier; do airbrushes need a particular type of compressor? I have an older air compressor somewhere around here, but I don't know if it has the right amount of pressure or the right connectors or etc. I was thinking a better option would be something like this which has both and is fairly inexpensive. I know there are different types of airbrushes; what do people here use? Any info would be appreciated. It's a bit too cold to be outside painting right now, but come springtime... well, who knows?
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 18:01 |
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Oblique Angle posted:Will washing the parts make them any less glossy and plastic-y looking? Nope. The only thing that will kill the plastic look is paint, or a clear coat at the very least. I've tried dulling the shine with very light sanding, but even the finest abrasives will just leave a web of scratches behind and won't really even out the finish properly. It's too bad bare plastic looks so awful, because painting is a whole order of complexity beyond assembly. quote:I was thinking a better option would be something like this which has both and is fairly inexpensive. That actually seems like a pretty good deal for a beginner's set. A full setup is going to require more than just the brush and compressor, though: you get into things like moisture traps, brush stands and cleaning stations, vapor masks and spray booths for safety, drying racks and/or boxes for the parts, not to mention all the fun & dangerous chemicals that you'll actually be spraying. As I said, it's complicated. On the other hand ya gotta start somewhere, and you can always add or upgrade equipment if you find the airbrush to your liking. I have a number of different airbrushes (not that I ever USE the fuckin' things) for different tasks. The cheaper, simpler ones can be handy for shooting overall primer, color or clear coats. Pricier double-action brushes are for finer control and effects, but are trickier to clean and more expensive to repair. Painting is hard. The best thing you can do is scour the Web for information, then buy a couple big sheets of sheet styrene at your friendly neighborhood plastics dealer and go to town. You could try it on some cheap model kits too, but those don't really exist anymore. Definitely do not try your first full paint job on something expensive that you worked hard on and are really attached to, because chances are it will not end well. Again, there is a ton of scale modeling info online that goes far beyond anything in the scope of this thread. Find it, use it, be as prepared as you can be for the inevitable dozen or so lovely paint jobs that will precede your first good one.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 18:49 |
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Oblique Angle posted:Still, that doesn't really matter since my hand glows with an awesome power! It's loud roar tells me to grasp victory! abkfljpgdkngldfbs This is worse than when people give the wrong quote. I've never seen someone say part of one then part of the other.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 20:22 |
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nerd alert.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 20:30 |
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slightpirate posted:nerd alert. You're here. You have no right to call ANYONE nerd.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 20:55 |
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Hey, if the shoe fits. There is no getting around the fact that we are posting in an anime subforum, and that's worth a healthy amount of shame by itself. I miss my God Gundam. Sucker could pull some sick moves for a now 11-year-old kit. It was also notably flawed even when new, so it sure wouldn't hurt my feelings if they did a better one someday. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jan 22, 2013 |
# ? Jan 22, 2013 21:15 |
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slightpirate posted:nerd alert. I feel no shame whatsoever.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 22:17 |
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Yeah, I thought it sounded wrong when I was typing it out. I haven't seen the show in a while, and looking up the right quote seemed like a lot of work. Clearly a rewatch is overdue.
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# ? Jan 22, 2013 23:50 |
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Was gonna post a picture of the HGUC Zeong I converted into the Perfect Zeong, but felt like it wasn't good enough to post. Instead, I bring you the last HGUC I built before I got all weird and decided I wasn't allowed to build models unless I'm doing something productive in my life outside of model building. So...like, 6 months ago or something. Here, take this GP01: I realized after taking the pictures that there were some painting errors and never took new pictures after fixing them, but I don't really care. I really like how it turned out. I was apprehensive about doing such an old kit, but it seems to have held up well to repeated posing (no pictures, unfortunately). I don't want to say I'm proud of it, but I do really, really like it. So what next? I'd like to build something else pretty soon. I've developed a tiny backlog of kits and don't know which to build next. I have a MG Wing Gundam (which GSAM gave to me for free when I bought a MG Deathscythe Hell Custom), a MG Epyon and a MG RX-78 Real Type + G-Fighter. There's also a HGUC Hazel Custom that I accidentally won on Ebay, but I think it can wait since I haven't built a Master Grade kit in almost 2 years. What shall it be, Plamo Goons? Bonus pics of other things I accidentally bought on Ebay: Can anybody tell me what these are? Besides the obvious. The listing said they were mail-aways from 1990's, but I'm pretty sure they're just Chinese junk since the RX-78 came with a 100mm Machine Gun. Made out of Die Cast metal and they're pretty hefty, though incredibly loose.
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# ? Jan 23, 2013 03:11 |
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Epyon. It's an amazing kit and should be on everyone's shelf.
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# ? Jan 23, 2013 03:26 |
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Kind of wanted to do the Epyon as penance for the terrible things I did to the 1/144 I had as a kid. Epyon it is then.
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# ? Jan 23, 2013 04:13 |
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You can also buy basecoat sprays instead of washing parts, which is what I usually do because I don't often have readily available warm water. Just cover the runners in that poo poo, but make sure to leave some of the sprue unsprayed so you don't embarassingly forget which parts are which colours and have to check dalong to figure out what is being painted what.
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# ? Jan 23, 2013 04:39 |
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Seconding Epyon. I got downright fixated and bought one just weeks after its release, but I lack the nerve to go through with building it so shall have to live through you instead.Dr. Wang posted:
There was an officially licensed series of smallish scale die-cast mobile suits like this in the mid-90s, but those actually looked pretty good and these would indeed appear to be bootleg junk. Which, of course, has its own charm. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 23, 2013 |
# ? Jan 23, 2013 05:15 |
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TaurusOxford posted:Epyon. It's an amazing kit and should be on everyone's shelf. I found it annoying that there are big seam lines on the wings on both the black and the red parts, which made it a pain in the rear end to paint. Everything else about the kit is pretty sweet though.
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# ? Jan 23, 2013 07:10 |
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still in the closet \ Bimmi fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jan 25, 2013 |
# ? Jan 25, 2013 10:36 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 09:18 |
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93 dollars later and I have a Tallgeese II pre-ordered. Limited AND Gundam Wing = must have.
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# ? Jan 25, 2013 14:29 |