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I think the 6-speed just has a standard hex drain plug, plus another one for the pan (you need to drain from both places). The rear diff needs some sort of a huge wrench to get one of the plugs out, 30mm I think.
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Jan 18, 2013 22:23
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Is the automatic transmission fluid in a 125k mile '03 Forester worth replacing if it's the first time? We bought the car about 9 months ago and I need to look through the maintenance records for a previous transmission fluid flush. I destroyed my beloved first car by flushing the auto trans fluid for the first time around 160k miles. If I can find a record of even one change I'm going to do it again ASAP, but if it's never been changed before I'm worried about touching it at all...stupid magical automatic transmissions 
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Jan 19, 2013 00:59
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Was the Forester XT ever offered with a manual? I was just reading that the new one is CVT only.
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Jan 19, 2013 02:26
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Cellular Suicide posted:Is the automatic transmission fluid in a 125k mile '03 Forester worth replacing if it's the first time? We bought the car about 9 months ago and I need to look through the maintenance records for a previous transmission fluid flush. I destroyed my beloved first car by flushing the auto trans fluid for the first time around 160k miles. If I can find a record of even one change I'm going to do it again ASAP, but if it's never been changed before I'm worried about touching it at all...stupid magical automatic transmissions I bought my basket case legacy with 192 on the clock. It had an auto. One of the solenoids was damaged and I had to drop the pan to replace it. Fresh oil and it shifts fine. The 4eat is a really durable box. blk posted:Was the Forester XT ever offered with a manual? I was just reading that the new one is CVT only. Yes, the older toaster chassis had plenty of 5mts. the new SUV lookin ones are auto only. The older ones are better as they have sti blocks and not confetti pistons.
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Jan 19, 2013 02:29
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However I'm pretty sure the new one is the only way to get the FA20DIT at the moment. I eagerly anticipate salvage yard content.
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Jan 19, 2013 02:53
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blk posted:Was the Forester XT ever offered with a manual? I was just reading that the new one is CVT only. Mother FUCKER what the hell are those dickheads thinking? Yes, the XT was in manual. I had an 04 and it was hands down the most hilarious wagon even stock I could have possibly desired. Absolutly loved it. (Still, the 06 WRX was a good step up.....)
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Jan 19, 2013 03:41
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Not only is it CVT only but it doesn't even have a hood scoop (opting instead for a first-gen MS3 style hood intake gap). Subaru have gone sort of crazy in the North American market. You can't buy a Legacy with a manual regardless of trim, for instance. At least you can still get a WRX/STI without a sunroof.
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Jan 19, 2013 03:45
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Slightly boring, but probably fairly simple question: I ran over a glass bottle left on the road and it wrecked one of my front tyres. They're in mediocre state so I figure I might just get a full new set. I'm in Australia, so I dont do snow driving or anything, but like to have a bit of fun. With that in mind: What would be a good set of tyres for a 2010 Subaru Impreza? (Not WRX)
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Jan 20, 2013 03:00
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Hammer Floyd posted:Slightly boring, but probably fairly simple question: Hankook Ventus V12's are a pretty safe bet. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...utoModClar=2.5i
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Jan 20, 2013 03:03
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I'm sure the question has been asked before or even done by someone here in the past - How hard is it to put the entire driveline and suspension of a 06 WRX into a 99 Forester, including alloy control arms etc? I'm pretty sure it's viable but I cant remember if there's things we need to pay attention to. Oh and then there's the brakes as well after that.
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Jan 20, 2013 08:55
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Would there realistically be any noticeable difference in the way a 4EAT VTD or 5mt equipped Subie handles? I'm seriously considering picking up a manual swapped SVX that's being advertised at the moment. It's had the 4EAT replaced with a '98 WRX 5mt and an uprated clutch. From what I understand, Subaru's with the 4EAT VTD transmissions split the torque with a default rear bias (36/64 in my old SVX) using a planetary gear arrangement, while the 5mt has a default 50/50 with the viscous diff. Would this translate to perhaps being more understeer prone on the road? Has anyone compared the difference in say a manual Legacy GT vs an Auto?
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Jan 20, 2013 10:20
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm sure the question has been asked before or even done by someone here in the past - It depends if you're keeping the lift blocks. If you are, you need at the very least different control arm pivot mounts (IIRC, the Forester ones run extra caster to compensate for the angle they're mounted at). I think something also has to get done with the lateral links in the rear for the same reason. If you're not, you can basically treat it like a GC (with the attendant issues regarding wider track width from the sedan LCAs and lat links). Power steering might be a bitch but you can swap the front subframe with a GD one. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jan 20, 2013 |
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Jan 20, 2013 19:01
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Caster is the same, but the mount is taller. Used without the lift blocks it will change the anti-geometry and cause some binding at the bushing. The urethane bushing in the WL ALK is mounted at an angle to compensate for different pivot point and angle. The only thing that's different on the older car is the rear strut top. So you can either drill some new holes or get a tophat for an older car. Basically you would just unbolt the forester crossmembers and bolt in the wrx ones. Without lift blocks you need a shorter steering linkage, and I think the splines are different, but you could take the two apart and make one that fits.
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Jan 20, 2013 21:09
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That's probably what I was thinking of, though I seem to remember if you put a Forester arm in a GC you gain some caster. I am probably thinking of the mount. There's a service in the US that builds conversion u-joints for power steering swaps, but you could easily get one welded together yourself.
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Jan 20, 2013 21:27
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Slow is Fast posted:I bought my basket case legacy with 192 on the clock. It had an auto. One of the solenoids was damaged and I had to drop the pan to replace it. Fresh oil and it shifts fine. The 4eat is a really durable box. Why did you have to change the solenoid? I have an '03 Forester auto which shudders at full lock both ways. Internet tells me it is most likely some solenoid that regulates drive to the rear wheels (or something like that). Was that your problem?
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Jan 21, 2013 03:19
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huh posted:Why did you have to change the solenoid? Some dingbat jacked the car up by the auto trans pan, which crushes it upwards into the solenoids. I had a clearly broken one. Swapped it out and was good to go. There are details and pictures in my project thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3451672&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=11
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Jan 21, 2013 16:04
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Hello fellow Subaru goons. I have a '12 wrx hatch, I'm currently looking at a Perrin down pipe and AP, maybe even a full exhaust. Due to the hatch I am concerned about drone, but really want that low gurgle boxers are famous for. Any suggestions on an exhaust, or anything against the mentioned Perrin products?
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Jan 21, 2013 18:14
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Are Primitive Racing's skidplates any good? They're the only company I can find that make a (legitimate-seeming) skidplate for the Legacy. I think I remembered one of you guys had one, but I'm not 100%.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:32
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The Jabberwocky posted:Are Primitive Racing's skidplates any good? They're the only company I can find that make a (legitimate-seeming) skidplate for the Legacy. I think I remembered one of you guys had one, but I'm not 100%. I have one 3/16s is fine. Done probably 500+ miles of logging roads with it and its held up great. Going to do stage rally with it this summer and that's probably when 3/16ths will start deforming due to hitting poo poo at speed.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:39
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Slow is Fast posted:I have one 3/16s is fine. Done probably 500+ miles of logging roads with it and its held up great. Going to do stage rally with it this summer and that's probably when 3/16ths will start deforming due to hitting poo poo at speed. Cool. They just have a sweet 90s website, which always throws red flags. I'm not doing any rally or anything, but I just swapped to lower suspension and am being paranoid, so that sounds like a plan. Tearing suspension poo poo off a 10 year-old Legacy is a pain in the rear end, by the way. Who knew.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:45
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This weekend was the first weekend of ice racing. I did pretty well in my STi considering how much of a handful it is with just winter tires on. I took some video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVArhegntmU
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Jan 21, 2013 22:57
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It's new car time, and I'm pretty much down to either the WRX or the WRX STI (both hatchback, 2013). Advice on the main Subaru forums is all over the place, leaving me more confused than when I started researching. Realistically, the car will spend 80% of its life commuting, and 20% in the canyons and an occasional autocross, and maybe a track day or 2 a year. Is the STI worth the additional $6k?
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Jan 22, 2013 02:52
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wilkenm posted:It's new car time, and I'm pretty much down to either the WRX or the WRX STI (both hatchback, 2013). Advice on the main Subaru forums is all over the place, leaving me more confused than when I started researching. Realistically, the car will spend 80% of its life commuting, and 20% in the canyons and an occasional autocross, and maybe a track day or 2 a year. Is the STI worth the additional $6k? If you can afford it (and the insurance) I'd do it.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:06
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So I was driving my friends 06 Legacy GT and the car makes this weird sound, like a bird's tweet whenever it gets up to speed, however when breaking it disappears, I can only hear it with the windows down .... it sounds JUST like a bird, never ever heard that one before on any car, Amy ideas?
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Jan 22, 2013 03:33
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I'm just dropping this in the Subaru thread. My grandpa has owned this 2000 Forester since it was new. In that time, the car has received barely any maintenance. No timing belt ever. Perhaps two oil changes a year, and that's it. I changed the spark plugs for the first time last year, and while I was taking it apart, I found the original air filter still in it. >>this car has 197,000 miles on it<< Last week, my grandpa says that he's been hearing rattling. He was driving home, and it just stopped. I towed it the half-a-block home, and noticed a hole in the timing cover. The timing idler departed through that hole. The tensioner is the upper right pulley. just below it should be a geared idler. It's gone.  Not pretty. There's melted plastic and metal shavings all over the place. I wish I could find the rest of the gear, but it's probably on the highway somewhere. The bolt tore out all the threads as it left, so I need to drill it out and helicoil a new one in there. Not bad for a timing belt that went double the distance it was supposed to.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:14
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Wow. I don't think I've ever seen an idler die like that before. I wonder how many teeth the timing belt jumped on the way to that failure. Let us know when you retime it.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:18
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wilkenm posted:It's new car time, and I'm pretty much down to either the WRX or the WRX STI (both hatchback, 2013). Advice on the main Subaru forums is all over the place, leaving me more confused than when I started researching. Realistically, the car will spend 80% of its life commuting, and 20% in the canyons and an occasional autocross, and maybe a track day or 2 a year. Is the STI worth the additional $6k? Do you know why your want a front LSD? Do you plan to add power to it? If the answers are both no, get the WRX. Basically, you're getting a beefier transmission and some tricker diffs on the STI (and bigger brakes). Everything else different is minor or something I'd be changing eventually anyhow. mulligan posted:So I was driving my friends 06 Legacy GT and the car makes this weird sound, like a bird's tweet whenever it gets up to speed, however when breaking it disappears, I can only hear it with the windows down .... it sounds JUST like a bird, never ever heard that one before on any car, Amy ideas? nm fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Jan 22, 2013 07:34
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The same thing actually happened to my 99 2.5rs. The idler gear bored a hole through the timing belt cover and escaped down and out onto the highway. It probably had about 140k miles on it (I thought it had been replaced when the previous owner put a brand new engine in at 80k miles). I sold the engine, and the buyer tore it down and found no damage to the pistons or valves despite the jumped teeth.
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Jan 22, 2013 07:35
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wilkenm posted:It's new car time, and I'm pretty much down to either the WRX or the WRX STI (both hatchback, 2013). Advice on the main Subaru forums is all over the place, leaving me more confused than when I started researching. Realistically, the car will spend 80% of its life commuting, and 20% in the canyons and an occasional autocross, and maybe a track day or 2 a year. Is the STI worth the additional $6k? The way I justified the extra money was that if I got the WRX, I would always wonder "what-if" about the STI. Fanboy forums like nasioc and iwsti will always just be owners trying to justify their own purchase (wrx vs sti, sedan vs hatch), so you're better just going with your gut.
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Jan 22, 2013 14:05
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dyne posted:The same thing actually happened to my 99 2.5rs. The idler gear bored a hole through the timing belt cover and escaped down and out onto the highway. It probably had about 140k miles on it (I thought it had been replaced when the previous owner put a brand new engine in at 80k miles). I sold the engine, and the buyer tore it down and found no damage to the pistons or valves despite the jumped teeth. I bought a 2000 2.5rs from someone who was driving down the highway and "it just died." One of the idler pulleys seized, bent 14 of the valves. This is why you change your pulleys, folks. Surprisingly, the pistons didn't have any marks on them, the valves only just interfere, which makes me wonder why they bother making it an interference engine at all.
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Jan 22, 2013 14:20
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0toShifty posted:The bolt tore out all the threads as it left, so I need to drill it out and helicoil a new one in there. First off, the pully with teeth bolts into the waterpump. Since you should be replacing the waterpump anyway, it's a non-issue. A new waterpump will have good threads in it. It almost certainly has bent valves. These engines almost never hurt the pistons or block, and it's probably leaking at the head gaskets anyway. Honestly, I'd just grab a pair of junk yard heads (assuming you can get them fairly cheap). Have them surfaced, put new gaskets in the thing, and it'll be fine.
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Jan 22, 2013 14:55
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wilkenm posted:It's new car time, and I'm pretty much down to either the WRX or the WRX STI (both hatchback, 2013). Advice on the main Subaru forums is all over the place, leaving me more confused than when I started researching. Realistically, the car will spend 80% of its life commuting, and 20% in the canyons and an occasional autocross, and maybe a track day or 2 a year. Is the STI worth the additional $6k? I had the same thoughts, the 40 horsepower was not worth the extra money to me, the brembos are horrid for daily driving and as for wondering what if I got the sti... I think about it daily but it is strictly vanity, good luck, you'll love the car regardless.
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Jan 22, 2013 18:44
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Rocketmoose posted:I had the same thoughts, the 40 horsepower was not worth the extra money to me, the brembos are horrid for daily driving and as for wondering what if I got the sti... I think about it daily but it is strictly vanity, good luck, you'll love the car regardless. Thanks (to everyone) for the responses. I'm about 90% sure I want the STI now, mainly for the 6 speed gear box. The closer ratios felt more like home after driving an S2000 for almost a decade. It's probably not $6k worth of extra happiness, but looking at resale values, it seems the STI holds a decent premium over the WRX, so it would all even out in the end. Based on a couple comments here, I'm going to go see about a more extensive test drive of the STI. Nothing really seemed unbearable for a daily driver, but it was only a few miles of driving, and so different from my current Crosstour that I spent most of the time in amazement.
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Jan 22, 2013 19:27
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Earlier today I had my Maddad Whisper Dual 3.5" tip exhaust installed on my STi  Naturally, it wouldn't fit with my aftermarket downpipe unless I removed my catpipe which I wasn't willing to do. I took a quick trip to a custom exhaust joint and had him cut and weld the pipes to fit on my existing catpipe. The sound is great. Rumblier, almost BMWish exhaust note at low rpm and reasonable/civilized amount of sound at higher rpm. I didn't really tear into the boost because I was driving on the street. Some pics: http://imgur.com/a/JruYD I think it might look more stock than the stock exhaust even. Maybe I'm in denial. I did pass 3 patrol cars without as much as a second look, and for that I am very happy with the quiet design of this muffler.
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Jan 22, 2013 23:57
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Not that I don't trust ebay (heh) but are these the crush washers I should be using for my 2012 Impreza? Link
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Jan 23, 2013 00:37
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Just so you know, that's not really any cheaper than you would pay just walking up to the parts counter at your local dealership.
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Jan 23, 2013 00:43
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bull3964 posted:Just so you know, that's not really any cheaper than you would pay just walking up to the parts counter at your local dealership. But the dealership is a whole ~25 miles away! I do need to get my brakes and whatnot checked for my 15K service so I guess I could just semi-combine the two trips and change my oil when I get home from that.
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Jan 23, 2013 01:04
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Get a Fumoto, never change crush washer again.
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Jan 23, 2013 01:12
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What should I be looking for when I look at 02-07 STIs for purchase? Sorry if it's been covered already. Don't currently have the time to go through 362 pages.
Devyl fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jan 23, 2013 |
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Jan 23, 2013 01:38
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Splinter posted:Get a Fumoto, never change crush washer again. I've seen conflicting reviews on the valve from full oil drainage issues (threads being too high) to leaking and the valve's durability from road and off-road debris. What's the SA consensus on them? Because my other reading has been NASIOC.
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Jan 23, 2013 02:01
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