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Yeah I got screwed and got the ATM. Luckily the Caddy uses the ATM. Also.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GX04sMcMweg He just made a slightly better mousetrap. I don't think I will go as radical as this guy, but the release valve and the quick disconnects is not a bad idea. I wont go with the engine solvents, but able to test cooling systems and doing brakes sounds like a pretty awesome idea.
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Jan 23, 2013 22:06
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Ferremit posted:Just bought myself this set: Niiiiice. I've seen them for sale. Hope you have a pending trip report of sorts. The same thing is true for just about anything though including kitchen equipment (which also has another racket going on with reselling stuff from other industries with a massive markup). My other half wanted a Kitchen Aid mixer. Those things are stupidly expensive here. For now she's still using the Kenwood that I upgraded to an aluminium final drive gear. When I have the cash I'm just going to buy her a Hobart. Pro tier poo poo and cheaper than a Kitchen Aid.
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Jan 23, 2013 22:48
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Ferremit posted:Just bought myself this set: drat that is a really nice set of tools.
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Jan 23, 2013 23:42
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revmoo posted:drat that is a really nice set of tools. Uh yeah... suddenly my purchase of this jack that I have been hemming and hawing over seems rather inconsequential and  .
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Jan 24, 2013 00:43
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Holy gently caress don't buy that either get a $60 HF aluminum jack or a proper 100lb steel Arcan for $100.
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Jan 24, 2013 00:44
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revmoo posted:Holy gently caress don't buy that either get a $60 HF aluminum jack or a proper 100lb steel Arcan for $100. Why not? I have yet to see a bad review of it. Sure it won't last as long as a steel one but from the reviews it's better than any of the other Chinese aluminum jacks and it weighs half as much.
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Jan 24, 2013 00:58
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It's only 2 ton, and $200. Max lift: 19 1/4". It's your money. Go ahead and blow it.
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Jan 24, 2013 01:20
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West SAAB Story posted:It's only 2 ton, and $200. Max lift: 19 1/4". My car weighs 3800 lbs, why would I need more than 2 tons? I can't lift the whole car with one jack. Every other chinese jack I've found has had bad reviews somewhere. I have yet to find a single bad review of this jack. It also seems to be the same jack Tire Rack sells with their brand on it. They've got it for $169 and cheaper shipping so I'll buy it from them instead.
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Jan 24, 2013 01:29
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Well in the next few months i'll be building a house with my better half (and a builder) and MY part of the process includes a 60K Litre water tank, All the associated plumbing, replacing about 20 light bulbs with LED downlights, building a 36m2 deck and laying 95m2 of veneered timber flooring... So a DECENT set of cordless tools will be very drat handy! Plus theres always the parents farm too- where they will come in very handy. Ended up going Milwaukee after using and outright abusing them at work- i've drilled 17mm holes through 6mm plate steel with the drill lying on its side in sand, feeling the sand kicking into my face from the fans and its never missed a beat.
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Jan 24, 2013 01:56
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Do yourself a favor, get a pneumatic hammer.
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Jan 24, 2013 14:39
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Just wanted to chime in that the HF 5-drawer service cart is one of the best values I've found at Harbor Freight, next to their 70lb jackhammer. Buy this cart and save $150. It's easily worth double its price.
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Jan 24, 2013 17:30
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Preoptopus posted:The US General they have at HF feels like it will fall apart once I drag it over the drain that runs down the middle of the shop. I dont know if the display model is just built like poo poo or if its the actual quality... Either way Im scared to trust it. The red 5-drawer is built like a brick shithouse. They sell a lesser one, but its still well-reviewed at GarageJournal.
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Jan 24, 2013 19:12
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DOes anyone have ant toolchest organization tips? I have one of the wheely two part things. You know the sort. Swing open top that locks all the drawers when it's closed on the top box.The top one has ...um I think 2x3 small drawers, a not very high full width and a larger full width. The bottom one has 6 drawers and a big bit that opens up like a solid garage door. I have too many tools for it and keep jamming it closed. Also what am I meant to be using the big swing open bottom bit for? I have a second as unused chest. It's an ancient Kincrome one. No bottom bot though. The Kincrome one has a front fascia to facilitate locking. I don't really know where to put it so I haven't started using it yet. I also have tools, fasteners, small spares, auto electric, electronic etc. bits farmed out to other toolboxes and whatever I can put them in. I'm just wondering if there are any guides on how these things are meant to be arranged?
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Jan 24, 2013 22:13
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General_Failure posted:meant to be arranged? See: http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=466 If you want, I can photograph each layer of my HF box... the setup works for me, but I'm sure it won't for you.
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Jan 24, 2013 22:23
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sharkytm posted:There's no "meaning" involved. The MFRs try to pack in as many drawers in as many depths as possible. Hey, I appreciate ideas. I have issues like my "shifting spanners, pliers, sidecutters etc" drawers getting stuck because a handle opens up or jams. My biggest full width drawer holds my overflow socket tools. The rest of them live in an ancient-rear end plastic cased swing open Chinese toolset I got when I was a kid. The plastic is disintegrating and I doubt half the tools in there are the originals anymore with the most used ones upgraded, ones I didn't use replaced with things I do etc. I'm terrible. I think I have as many toolboxes as I do jerrycans. I even have different sizes to go in the car depending on trip length and reasons. I pack a small emergency kit in some kind of small munitions box. A fold open toolbox for longer / more specialized trips. A couple of toolchests. Oh, another fold open toolbox that's rusted to poo poo that I bought because it was full of random bits and pieces. A metal fold open socket case, heaps of airtool / power tool boxes etc. While I'm at it how the hell am I meant to store an electric planer?
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Jan 24, 2013 22:56
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I'm going to be shopping for some hose clamps for one of my vacuum lines soon. I'm hoping to find this style: Are these generally available at most auto parts stores? Is there a proper term for them?
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Jan 25, 2013 08:37
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Yeah they're just called spring hose clamps, (or corbin clamps apparently). Should be able to find them at a regular auto parts store
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Jan 25, 2013 08:44
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Typically "spring clip" or "spring clamp." Not really sure if parts stores carry them, I've never had a need to replace one.
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Jan 25, 2013 08:45
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Geoj posted:Typically "spring clip" or "spring clamp." Not really sure if parts stores carry them, I've never had a need to replace one. I've never seen them in series either. Do you know where there's lots of them, and free? The junk yard.
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Jan 25, 2013 14:27
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I get why you want to use those. Didn't know they had them in vacuum line sizes or are we talking the bigger hoses like PCV, evap etc? There's a drainage plumbing / irrigation / some miscellaneous harware / trailer part / who knows store in town which has some really nice hose clams I've been wanting to buy some of. I don't know what they are called so I can't look for them elsewhere. They are closer in concept to the two part hose clamps with the hose shield. Speaking of which Ford just used standard worm gear type hose clamps on their cars. Even for the big one on the fuel tank sender / pump assembly lid. I could almost fit that one over my head.
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Jan 25, 2013 23:41
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General_Failure posted:I get why you want to use those. Didn't know they had them in vacuum line sizes or are we talking the bigger hoses like PCV, evap etc? You can get special pliers for them to make life easier if you're dealing with them a lot.
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Jan 25, 2013 23:48
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Protip: buy an inline fuse holder and put a 10A or 15A fuse in it and make up another test lead for when you're checking for draws (testing current), that way if you accidentally open the door and all your computers and lights turn on it won't blow up your meter.
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Jan 25, 2013 23:53
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If anything more than a fuse pops in your meter from over current, it was a piece of poo poo anyways.
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Jan 26, 2013 00:01
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peepsalot posted:If anything more than a fuse pops in your meter from over current, it was a piece of poo poo anyways. My chapie lovely multimeters just seem to spaz out for a while if I accidentally overcurrent the 10A circuit. I think it must have a breaker or something because if I leave it for a little while and come back to it it's happy. I accidentally did just this recently trying to measure current draws on the VWs old heater booster fan and the Land Cruiser under seat heaters. The VW fan apparently draws a lot of current. So it meant I can happily connect both 'cruiser heaters in parallel using the original booster fan relay which is good. I never did finish that job though. The heater is semi test fitted (only one screw), it more or less interfaces with the heater air system properly, the 12-24v inverter is fitted, but I haven't wired or plumbed it yet. So, there are special pliers for those hose clamps? That would save an awful lot of expletives. I usually just give up and use my fingers to unlock them.
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Jan 26, 2013 00:06
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General_Failure posted:So, there are special pliers for those hose clamps? That would save an awful lot of expletives. I usually just give up and use my fingers to unlock them.  You also get ones which are actuating a separate jaw assembly with a cable, so they can be used in all sorts of tight locations: 
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Jan 26, 2013 00:20
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My problem is that at least half of the ones I've taken off of my MS3 end up being one-time use - they don't spring back enough to hold tension. That said, I want those cable pliers now. That's awesome.
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Jan 26, 2013 00:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:My problem is that at least half of the ones I've taken off of my MS3 end up being one-time use - they don't spring back enough to hold tension. Aren't they? The cable ones would save so much time and blood trying to reach one of those goddamn clamps put in some horrible place like between the back of the engine and the firewall.
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Jan 26, 2013 00:43
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InitialDave posted:They're basically just a pair of pliers with profiled jaws to sit neatly on the tabs of the clamp: Being the former owner of a Citron, I'll have to call you out on this bullshit. Yes, I've tried both. The only tool that consistently works while loving around with spring-clamps is a needle nose lock jaw wrench.  People that don't use this is the people we bitch about leaving the clamp release in weird positions. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 01:04
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Turns out Autozone's site shows a $5 variety pack. Not individually, but it beats bulk packages from elsewhere since I only need a pair. It's one of the "Help" products. I never get sick of looking at the odd variety of "Help" stuff.
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Jan 26, 2013 05:12
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The cable clamp pliers are pretty awesome. I use mine all the time even when the hose clamp is fairly accessible.
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Jan 26, 2013 05:43
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HF sells a bulk pack also.
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Jan 26, 2013 06:33
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New jack: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ctj3000g-3-tonne-professional-garage-j 3 tonne and reasonably high lift. Not the cheapest, but I had its direct competitor before and that has lasted at 6 or 7 years so I'll be happy with anything similar from this. Its nice to know you can lift near enough anything!
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Jan 26, 2013 12:12
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I'm looking at this for a jack. Main points being it looks like I can get to the front crossmember on the miata without needing to drive up on blocks of wood. Thoughts? Canada means no HF... I live in a border town but there's no HF within 200 miles. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...k.jsp?locale=en E: hmm, it appears to be the exact same as this jack, from HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/low-profilehigh-lift-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-2-ton-heavy-duty-68050.html Which, while it's on sale at HF right now is normally $170 compared to 175$ at crappy tire. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 19:40
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Sir Cornelius posted:Being the former owner of a Citron, I'll have to call you out on this bullshit. Yes, I've tried both. The only tool that consistently works while loving around with spring-clamps is a needle nose lock jaw wrench. The smallest size ratchet clamp also works well when you can't get the angle right for a vise grip. I've found them down to 100mm, which is freaking tiny. Worked on the drain hose on my washing machine, anyway.
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Jan 27, 2013 09:42
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Who's used the dale adams bone creeper? I've always used either nothing, or the standard 6 wheel creepers with the little 1 1/2" wheels that suck. My garage floor is cracked and not great, and the driveway is much worse. I usually end up with the nothing option because it's easier to just wear a junk shirt and a pair of bibs than to get all frustrated with a standard lovely creeper. But this thing really tempts me http://www.amazon.com/Dale-Adams-Enterprises-6031-Mechanics/dp/B000051XJ1/ref=pd_sim_hi_2
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Jan 28, 2013 05:06
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Bought the Blue Point cart. Not looking back.
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Jan 28, 2013 05:16
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Cordless tool suggestion request.. Had mostly Ryobi cordless for the last 10+ years but batteries are going (multiple replacements) and most of the tools are pretty beat up so time to upgrade. I don't want to get a big kit as I know most of those just aren't used much and I've got corded versions of most. I don't like Makita or Rigid much and don't want Ryobi again. I am basically thinking of Dewalt, Milwaukee and Bosch at this point. I'll be picking up some lighter weight 12v style but also a few 18/20v ones for the few tools where I know I can use the extra power. All three of those manufacturers supply the pieces that I'm more interested in. I don't mind if the 12v and the 18/20 is from different manufacturers but I want the ones within each line to be the same for battery compatibility. I know that Dewalt came out with their 20v line and Milwaukee came out with their 18v Fuel line so hopefully they will be supplying those but what about Bosch? I'd like something that will last me for at least 5 years (even if I have to replace a couple of batteries). I'm a hobbyist doing both wood and metal work. I use the multiple times per week just in general tinkering and during a project pretty heavily. Right now I'm leaning towards Dewalt and Bosch for the 12v lightweight stuff and either Dewalt or Milwaukee for the 18/20v items. Anyone have experience with the current generation offerings from Bosch? I know orange box is pushing them pretty heavily these days but they just don't have as many reviews as the other two. I'm not really tied to any one brand. My corded stuff is all over the map because I can base those on the individual capabilities of the tool which is hard to do with cordless. Or am I completely over thinking this crap and anything from those 3 would be fine for the next 4-6 years of heavy hobby use? (sorry for all the text)
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Feb 1, 2013 21:46
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I've a bosch professional lithium 18v (GSB 18-VE-2-Li) and it has been really impressive. The torque is superb, and the batteries seem to last for a great length of time. I've quite a few bosch pro tools and they all seem to be reliable. My only issue with the cordless is that I had to drill some 13mm holes and once the drill bit was in I was unable to remove it. It had to go to bosch as a warrenty claim. I've just got the drill back and now the chuck doesn't open enough to get a 13mm drill in, so it will be going back to be sorted. Just a couple of days ago I put in an order for the 18v bosch 1/2 inch impact and was told that there was a problem supplying it as bosch are upgrading the model due mid Feb with 4Ah batteries. I think the modern dewalt stuff isn't all that good as it's basically just upmarket black and decker. As an aside I also have the little double makita 10.8v cordless drill and impact driver set. They are fantastic little tools for smaller jobs, very neat to fit into tight spaces and great when bags of torque or power aren't needed.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:08
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Makita LXT all the way. Largest selection of tools (other than Milwaukee), and really good reliability. There are issues with the batteries dying if you don't use them at all (they drain one of the cells with the voltage monitoring circuit, but it takes several months of non-use for that to happen). I've had a set since 2009, best. wedding. present. ever. I have the Impact driver, drill, sawzall, circ saw, grinder, vacuum (srsly), and light. They've all been abused and they all work perfectly. I like the selections from Milwaukee, but the reliability, according to the contractors I know, is spotty. If you are in the trades, Milwaukee is the only way to go (Plumbing-PEX tools, Electrical-DVM, cable cutters, etc), but for homeowner or carpentry, I'd go Makita LXT. I got my extras (circ, vacuum, and grinder) on Amazon when they had a $25 off sale. I paid like $30 for the vacuum, and $50 for the circ.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:22
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Are any of the cheap harbor freight multimeters any good? I'm probably only going to use it once in a blue moon so it doesn't have to be real durable.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:33
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