|
Farside posted:
Just have it controled directly by the humidistat, air gets dry, furnance fan turns on.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 02:19 |
|
|
Welmu posted:I'm using a pulley system with mountain climbing rope Ignoring everything else: Make sure that your rope is 'static' and not 'dynamic.' If it is dynamic it will stretch and give under the weight and you will create weak sections in the rope.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:10
|
|
|
Aggressive pricing posted:Just have it controled directly by the humidistat, air gets dry, furnance fan turns on. Assuming a bypass humidifier, you will pick up very little moisture without hot air.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 16:12
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Assuming a bypass humidifier, you will pick up very little moisture without hot air. It wouldn't really matter, the air would suck up the moisture like a sponge considering how dry winter air is. If there's enough humidity present for that not to happen he wouldn't need a humidifier in the first place.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 17:20
|
|
|
Ahz posted:I think you're better off screwing a bolt into the cement rather than gluing it. It sounds like the force will be trying to pull it straight out and you definitely want to anchor something in there that screws into concrete. Would a wedge anchor do the job? That and expoxy glue are currently holding the bottom pulley in the floor, and the anchor alone is rated at well over 200 kg. The problem then is how to attach a length of metal to the short piece of bolt so that it a) does not come undone under daily torsion nor bends but b) can be removed if necessary to service the bearings. Unless as it turns both directions daily, the tightening/loosening effects cancel each other out. XmasGiftFromWife posted:Ignoring everything else: Make sure that your rope is 'static' and not 'dynamic.' If it is dynamic it will stretch and give under the weight and you will create weak sections in the rope. Four of these connect to this, so I should be good. Welmu fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 22, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
I'm trying to run approx 75' of Cat6 cable from one building to another on the same piece of land. Sadly digging isn't really an option because of there being a building directly between the two and also a parking lot. I as going to run the cable over head, since the middle building is shorter than the two other buildings. I was going to use a 1/16" braided steel cable with the Cat6 wrapped around it. The 1/16" cable is rated for 96 Lbs. I also purchased some hooks to use that are rated for 210 Lbs. The hooks are to make it easier to remove the Cat6 cable in case it gets damage. Now I have two problems. I need some way to attach the cable to the hooks and the hooks to either building. They had 1/16" clamps, but no swaging tool small enough to crimp them. So I need an option to crimp the cable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 18:53
|
|
|
edit: wrong answer
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:edit: wrong answer
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 19:01
|
|
|
I spilled a few droplets of paint on one of our bathroom floors. I managed to scrape of most of it but because the tiles aren't smooth (by design) there's some stuff that remains. Can I use normal paint remover or will that corrode the tiles. I'm not 100% sure what material it is, but I'm asking in case there is an obvious answer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 19:10
|
|
|
Namarrgon posted:I spilled a few droplets of paint on one of our bathroom floors. I managed to scrape of most of it but because the tiles aren't smooth (by design) there's some stuff that remains. Can I use normal paint remover or will that corrode the tiles. I'm not 100% sure what material it is, but I'm asking in case there is an obvious answer. Assuming you used latex paint (it will saw on the can) I would try using something with stiff plastic bristles (plastic broom, a brush) and get down on your knees and try to rub the paint off. Depending on your tiles I would try plastic wire brush->very stiff plastic->needle/awl->wire brush->goof off
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 19:17
|
|
|
My old lathe has a flat belt step pulley but a previous owner cut grooves in 2 of them. I want to fill the grooves so I can run flat belts. A machinist recommended I use Devcon plastic steel putty but it only comes in 1 lb. or larger. I'm wondering if something like JB Weld Steelstick would be equivalent? MOD EDIT: Oh god my tables. Somebody fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 24, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 07:53
|
|
|
What about bondo to fill in the gap? It would be easy to sand the bondo even with the existing steel.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 16:04
|
|
|
lol
AKP fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Mar 24, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 06:28
|
|
|
...uhh, what size, quantity or what do they have to stick to?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 07:24
|
|
|
AKP posted:Whats up guys. I can do them in rolls of just about any size you want. Can also contour cut them but I don't cut them out. XmasGiftFromWife posted:What about bondo to fill in the gap? It would be easy to sand the bondo even with the existing steel. I think bondo would be too brittle and I'm not sure about the wear characteristics. A pulley belt will be running against it, applying pressure, generating heat. Today someone recommended Metal Set, an aluminum epoxy that's very thick and sticky.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 09:20
|
|
|
wormil posted:I think bondo would be too brittle and I'm not sure about the wear characteristics. A pulley belt will be running against it, applying pressure, generating heat. Today someone recommended Metal Set, an aluminum epoxy that's very thick and sticky. What about just taking it to a welding shop, filling the groove with weld, then machining it back flat? Account_Username posted:Yeah the limit switches are on the front panel of that assembly, and they seem to work. They are supposed to open at 150 and close at 100 (I don't know whether that's Fahrenheit or Celsius), but I haven't tried testing them for accuracy. The switch for the lower element on there will open after several minutes of running the furnace. It still does that on that same element if I swap the limit switches on each element, so I don't think the problem is with the limit switch. Get out the multimeter and that wiring diagram, then see how far the power is making it once it's turned on. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jan 24, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 16:14
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:What about just taking it to a welding shop, filling the groove with weld, then machining it back flat? That would work but be a lot more expensive and the lathe is not invaluable. I could quickly spend enough money to buy the same model in pristine condition which is why I also gave up on buying reproduction parts. So ultimately if I can't do it cheaply it isn't worth doing at all. For $6 I have little to lose so I'll try the JB putty which will probably work, I was just wondering if anyone might have some experience with it or similar products. It's too cold to work on right now so I have some time to think about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 20:36
|
|
|
March last year we bought a house (yay) but since then we are constantly fighting the HVAC system and never seem to be on the winning side (boo). We do have a living room with a 2-floor vaulted ceiling which makes for most of our heating/cooling issues, but today's has been slightly different. Woke up this morning to the usual chill downstairs, checked thermostat @ 63F. Wen about the downstairs duties and headed upstairs to find that the temperature was not much different. In fact it was 64F. Now I do recall the furnace cutting on last night numerous times, because the furnace sits in my attic, with the access to it directly above my office area. I head up the attic, notice the steady flashing light (which on the back panel of the grate says is "systems nominal"). I pop back down, jack up the thermostat upstairs to a slightly higher than usual 74 and hit it to ON. The downstairs was also bumped to the same temp, and also placed on to try to equalize at least upstairs before getting air down. That may be retarded-homeowner-logic or false but it set my wife and I to ease so that our baby boy wouldn't become an icicle. My wife thinks that downstairs the air is not coming out as fore-full as it once had. I leave work early to investigate however I can, part numbers, model, serials, brand names...I can't find poo poo on this unit. I have no idea if it is single stage, 2nd stage turbine blade, category 1, cat 2 etc etc. Most of the complaint is searing hot upstairs, downstairs is frigid. I do understand the what air/heat moves, so I get that it is more common for downstairs to be cold and upstairs to be hot, but there never seems to be equilibrium, there is a distinct change walking up the steps. I can find no internal filters on the unit. This is the furnace in question:  Only external model #s or serials  Internal shot LEFT with burners-a-go:  Internal shot RIGHT:  Quick research told me these were dampners, not sure which goes to upstairs which goes downstair:  REALLY had to reach for this one, so not sure of its settings  Might be hooked into this do-dad:  Unidentified rod...seriously wtf is this?  And lastly, should I be concerned with this wiring? They are in the wiring nuts well enough but...Also they are not actually IN the insulation, the perspective of the shot makes it appear that way.  Basically I would like to know wtf happened last night, and how to keep it from happening again. Also some insight on how to work the system to get some sort of equilibrium in the house. I know it won't always be 100% but anything better than the last 10 months would be an improvement. I have learned that the upstairs thermostat is the primary, and I would love to have that changed. Turned both off to let furnace shut down, set downstairs heat to 76, turned to HEAT and ON. no dice. Turned upstairs to HEAT and ON and had ignition. So current settings are upstairs HEAT and AUTO, and downstairs HEAT and ON I also know that the Nest is not compatible with my home because they do not have support of heat pumps due to the wiring at the wall unit(s), also would love to know what kind of cost would be incurred in that. Any one able to teach me my system? hagie fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 19:04
|
|
|
Did you check the insides of the front covers for labels? Also check out that control board on the fan for labeling. That should at least be able to tell you the manufacturer. That DuroZone box is your zone control system. That might be the source of your problems. Filters are located on the cold air intake of furnaces. And I wouldn't worry about those wires laying on the insulation. HVAC control wires that thin are only 24V. If it bothers you that much, bundle them up with a zip tie so they don't lay directly on the insulation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 20:03
|
|
|
hagie posted:
That furnace is a Tempstar (a Carrier subsidiary) 80% efficiency unit. I have 2 of those units heating rentals I own. Mine have given me zero problems in the last 7 years since I installed them so I can't really give you any more info than that. When I get home from work I will see if I can dig up the manuals to find model numbers to aid you.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 20:19
|
|
|
hagie posted:Any one able to teach me my system? I'll give it a shot. quote:My wife thinks that downstairs the air is not coming out as fore-full as it once had. It's possible something's blocking the air flow, that would make the downstairs a lot colder. quote:I can find no internal filters on the unit. Good. quote:Quick research told me these were dampners, not sure which goes to upstairs which goes downstair: Yeah, those are damper motors, if you want to know which does what have someone turn on a thermostat when you're next to the furnace, you'll hear it open. quote:Unidentified rod...seriously wtf is this? It's for taking air samples, either for chemical anylysis(flue gases) or draft strength(house air/flue) quote:And lastly, should I be concerned with this wiring? It's lazy to leave wires like that but the only danger is someone getting caught up in them. quote:Basically I would like to know wtf happened last night, and how to keep it from happening again. Also some insight on how to work the system to get some sort of equilibrium in the house. No idea, but if I were you I'd set up your system so that rather than having primary and secondary thermostats you have one, with a tempature sensor on the other floor. You could make it so the fan turns on whenever the temp difference between the floors is more than a set amount, that would cool the thermostat, which would turn on the furnace. quote:I have learned that the upstairs thermostat is the primary, and I would love to have that changed. Turned both off to let furnace shut down, set downstairs heat to 76, turned to HEAT and ON. no dice. Turned upstairs to HEAT and ON and had ignition. So current settings are upstairs HEAT and AUTO, and downstairs HEAT and ON That's dumb. I guess setting the upstairs ON and downstairs Heat and ON would work decently*. Unless the dampers only open on a call for heat, which is as believable as it is mindnumbly stupid. quote:I also know that the Nest is not compatible with my home because they do not have support of heat pumps due to the wiring at the wall unit(s), also would love to know what kind of cost would be incurred in that. The Nest has a cute design but it's nothing special, they've replaced buttons with a dial. *If it works(it should) this is what I'd recomend doing, it does pretty much what I was talking about with the sensor, with the exceptions that you'd have a fan running all the time(which you do anyway) and you don't have to buy anything. Also insulation, windows, and all those other things that need to be in decent condition for an HVAC system to do it's job.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 20:52
|
|
|
Aggressive pricing posted:
So the Auto/On sets the damper? My previous experience with HVAC has been apartments that basically have Cool | Off | Heat and Emergency heat on/off, so the Auto/On setting makes no sense to me. This is the simplistic POS we are living with upstairs and down. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 21:28
|
|
|
hagie posted:So the Auto/On sets the damper? Auto/on controls the fan, in the auto setting the fan turns on when the furnace starts to run and in the on setting the fan runs constantly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 22:25
|
|
|
What's it mean, and can it be fixed, when a toilet is very...unforgiving? My wife and I are both fairly experienced at this, you'd think, but the upstairs toilet has a hell of a knack for getting clogged no matter how careful we are. I'm just wondering if there's something we can do to fix this, or test it to see what the problem is... Any ideas? Edit: didn't realize there was a plumbing thread, I'll take this poo poo over there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 23:36
|
|
|
Aggressive pricing posted:
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 00:13
|
|
|
hagie posted:Furnace stuff Apparently Tempstar has a few different models that look all the same. Here is the user manual http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/documents/086477/44102201201.pdf Here is the model that I own. The very bottom of the spec sheet tells you how to read the model number. If I recall correctly the model number is on the data plate which is on the bottom, inside the cabinet where the bottom door clips into the case. You have the furnace mounted horizontally so It would be on the far right hand side near where the big rectangular duct is, near where the door clips into the furnace housing. Hopefully the installer didn't cut that out when they mounted the duct to the bottom. http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/documents/086477/44121261004.pdf
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 05:43
|
|
|
ok I have x2 books that are identical. that is front and back of both. Similar to the PDFs but not 100%
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 06:02
|
|
|
Any tips on how to fix this? Caused by two puppies eating the floor. My plan is: 1. Tape off surrounding area 2. Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty 3. Sand smooth 4. Wood stain to "match" the floor Is this a horrible idea? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 19:49
|
|
|
Why not just replace the board? A cut or two up its length and it should come out relatively easy. A single floor board, a few nails and you're sorted.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
NoSpoon posted:Why not just replace the board? A cut or two up its length and it should come out relatively easy. A single floor board, a few nails and you're sorted. Time to show how dumb I am. How would I cut it? Circular saw but don't go too deep? (this is what I own) Where would be the best place to source a specifically sized wood floor board to be the replacement? Do you nail it on the underside somehow? I don't see any nails on the tops of any of the boards 
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 21:18
|
|
|
 This was the rotten door frame before I did anything to it.  I removed the threshold and peeled back the flashing and vapor barrier. I found a rotted 1x6 underneath the threshold and a 6" section of subfloor that also had water damage. The water damage to the frame went vertical for about 5". I didn't get any pictures of the replacement 1x6, but I removed the section of damaged subfloor and replaced it with new 1x6 and then replaced the rotted 1x6 with a new 1x6. I placed the existing vapor barrier and flashing back over the 1x6 and would sit the threshold on top of it until today.  I used a circular saw to cut 7.5" high on the frame. I managed to not slice the underlying vapor barrier and studs.   I got a 0.75"x6" board and cut it to size to replace the 0.75" x 4 9/16" jamb section of the door frame. I used a 0.5"x2.5" to replace the stop section of the frame. I screwed them into place and caulked the ever-living hell out of them. Tommorrow, I'll be putting back up the brick molding and trim molding on the exterior and interior, respectively. Hell, if I make it to Lowes, I might even paint it. The next short-term project will be the rotted/missing hardwood floor plank seen in the pictures. Long term include storm door for this backdoor and probably a whole, new prehung door as the existing frame and door look pretty rough. That'll most likely happen in a few years when it comes time to sell the house though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 00:33
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:Time to show how dumb I am. How would I cut it? Circular saw but don't go too deep? (this is what I own) Where would be the best place to source a specifically sized wood floor board to be the replacement? Do you nail it on the underside somehow? I don't see any nails on the tops of any of the boards Great application for a multi-tool which can make a straight plunge cut with its vibrating blade. This gives the general idea. About 100 companies make this tool. They're confusingly but universally referred to as "multi tools". See the dremel multi-max, milwaukee multi tool (cordless) bosh, rigid etc. A fantastic DIY tool to have around. They always come with a nice sanding attachment too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShGRcbtSl7E
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 01:23
|
|
|
Seconding the Dremel Multi Max. I got one when I had to replace a large section of my bathroom floor and sub floor, and it's perfect for that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 01:54
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:They're confusingly but universally referred to as "multi tools". Leatherman multi-tools  They also go by "oscillating tools". Totally TWISTED posted:2. Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty Just the putty that you chose. Not all putty readily accepts wood stain. I know that Minwax makes a putty that will accept stain. I would use the same manufacturer for the stain as the stainable putty so you'll be sure that the putty will accept the stain. NoSpoon posted:Why not just replace the board? A cut or two up its length and it should come out relatively easy. A single floor board, a few nails and you're sorted. This isn't as easy as it sounds. You have to worry about matching the finished surface all around. If your floor has been refinished 2 or more times, then the difference in height between the existing floor and the new board could be enough that it will be a bitch to match. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jan 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 04:13
|
|
|
I was just going to use the putty that I had but matching them like that sounds logical. I'm not sure but my guess is the floor is original from the house being built in 1966, no idea on refinishing. As much as I love reasons to buy new tools I think I will attempt to putty/stain the damage first and if it's totally loving horrible I'll see about replacing the board.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:I was just going to use the putty that I had but matching them like that sounds logical. There's a way you can cheat and see how much your floor has been refinished... Do you have any exterior doors or tiled floors nearby? If it's easy, pull up their thresholds. Refinishers always stop grinding the floor before they hit the concrete or tile. Sometimes refinishers won't bother to grind back closets either, so maybe check closet thresholds. edit: oh, and your floor stain looks like a pretty good match for "Golden Pecan". kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 04:36
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:I was just going to use the putty that I had but matching them like that sounds logical.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 04:40
|
|
|
I have had success repairing splinters and chips in the floor (1910s) with plastic wood. It is available in multiple stains, I mix them to match and swirl a dark rope to imitate grain. Finish with bona floor restorer to match gloss.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 15:17
|
|
|
Anyone know of a source of 1/4" PEX fittings? Lots of places sell 1/4" PEX tubing but I can't seem to find any fittings.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 16:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 02:19 |
|
|
I'm looking for insulation options for a traditionally framed floor. I'm thinking batts are my best bet. It seems like my floors move too much for spray foam to be a good option. Anyone insulated their floors and have advice?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2013 17:45
|
|
