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the walkin dude posted:I didn't realize the Ninja 500 had slider products out for it. http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php?title=Frame_Sliders For the front sliders, there's a company making a $95 set, and one making a $70 set, so neither too cheap but not ungodly. And apparently some folks just put an extra-long threaded bolt through the front engine mounts and cap that off with universal sliders. There are bar extensions for $50ish, which I might go for since they'd pretty much pay for themselves the first time they shield the levers or a mirror during a fall. I've already lost the tips of both levers, once my bust and once someone knocking it over. quote:Just go the same route as I did, sell the 500 and get a SV. You will wonder why you stayed with the 500 for that long. I'd have to get mine running again to sell it for any decent amount anyway. I'm pretty much considering my intial purchase/registration of the bike as sunk cost, so cleaning the carbs, putting on fresh cables and hoses, etc. isn't unreasonable. An SV650 is also slightly more worth crying over when toppled/stolen, plus even on the 16" wheels version of the EX500 I can only get the balls of my feet on the deck, so on an SV I'd be definitely standing on one foot at every stop, which does not thrill me. The EX should be a good learning experience, worst case scenario. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Jan 22, 2013 04:10
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My gf had to bear my old ninja 500 on one foot (which was one reason she toppled over with it in a parking lot once). On my SV (with zx10r shock) she's flat-footed. Try 1st gen SV's?
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Jan 22, 2013 05:04
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good windscreen for an '04 naked? I noticed this morning mine has split above the mounting bolts. I quite like the look of this Puig one and it seems fairly reasonably priced. http://www.bs-motoparts.com/Wind_Protection/Fly_screen_Puig_Naked_light_smoke_i674_934.htm
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Feb 1, 2013 12:30
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AncientTV posted:So, due to not being able to find a willing welder, a quickly approaching winter break of free time, and a desire to tear into my first engine, I'm considering just replacing the cases on my SV instead of getting the coolant hole patched up. AncientTV posted:Over the last week I've been investigating a water-leaking-into-oil problem. I narrowed it down to something in the vicinity of the water pump, so I replaced the water pump oil seal and o-rings, and the clutch cover gasket, and I made sure everything buttoned up all nice and sealed well. It still leaked. Today, as I was ho-humming around the bike, I took a flashlight to this coolant jacket in the engine case: So I got around to ordering a set of cases for this finally, and, what do you know, that hole is supposed to be there  It looked so janky and I never saw it in any fiches so I just assumed it was a Bad Thing. However, now the coolant-in-oil problem is mysterious again, and I'm at a loss at what it could be. I'll still be taking my heads off at the very least to check the head gaskets (the only other culprit I can think of), and doing some cleaning to make sure all the coolant isn't in bad places. Some questions: How do you visually inspect the integrity of a head gasket? I don't think I've ever really come across a bad one. If the leak isn't from there, where else could the coolant be leaking into the oil from? It's not a dribble, nearly all of it is in the crankcase within a minute of pouring water into the radiator. And, since this wasn't answered last time, what kind of workload am I looking at with swapping the gaskets. I'm competent, but I've never done heavy engine stuff before, so I'll be going slow and steady with my manual. edit: ReformedNiceGuy posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a good windscreen for an '04 naked? Puigs, Zero Gravity, and Fabbris are the screens I see most mentioned on SV forums; the one you posted is probably a good bet, it all depends on how tall you are though. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 02:22
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Cheers TV. I'm a little over 6' and that screen in particular looks similar in dimensions the Givi one it'll be replacing which seemed to do the job.
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Feb 4, 2013 14:25
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Over the past few months the second gear on my 99 sv650 has been getting worse and worse. Goes into gear fine and runs fine in it but likes to pop out on the initial 1->2 upshift, never on downshift. Started as once a month a few months ago and worked up to 1-2 times a day now. Fresh fluid doesn't seem to help at all. Seems to pop out more when accelerating hard than when slow. Doesn't happen in any other gears. I'm shifting firmly with the clutch pulled completely. Is it time to start looking for a new transmission or transmission parts?
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Feb 4, 2013 14:58
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Could be worn dogs(teeth/holes on the face of the gear) on 20 and 27. Or 2. Wear in 7 could cause it too, but It's not very likely.
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Feb 4, 2013 15:35
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On the upside,
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Feb 4, 2013 15:48
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NitroSpazzz posted:Over the past few months the second gear on my 99 sv650 has been getting worse and worse. Goes into gear fine and runs fine in it but likes to pop out on the initial 1->2 upshift, never on downshift. Started as once a month a few months ago and worked up to 1-2 times a day now. Fresh fluid doesn't seem to help at all. Didnt you just regear it? mine got more fussy about the 1-2 upshift after i went up a few teeth on the back. Sometimes getting the clutch adjustment spot on can alleviate it but its most likely wear on the shift fork.
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Feb 4, 2013 17:11
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Put it in second, get it up to 10k or so, and roll in and out of the throttle aggressively like you're trying to wheelie. If it pops out, I'd redo everything.
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Feb 4, 2013 19:00
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I did just re-gear but this started before that. I'll give the hard on/off the throttle a shot and see how it behaves. I have a spare engine/transmission (bike) if it comes to that but it looks like parts are pretty cheap.
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Feb 4, 2013 20:16
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I left my '01 650s sitting in the garage for a full season (i.e., over a year including winters). It was always a hard starter, but now even with a jump it cranks but doesn't seem interested in turning over. I replaced the spark plugs two years ago, but as far as I know the valves have never been adjusted even though it has something like 20k on it. So, "Fuel, Air, Spark:" If the plugs look good and the intake isn't full of mouse droppings or something, it's probably something in the fuel delivery. Is my best bet to pull the plugs to see if they're totally hosed, then clean the carbs and do the valves? My best guess is that even with Stabil in the tank the gas is completely bad by this point and has added enough gunk to what was already in the carbs (which I have never cleaned) that they're essentially completely clogged. Bearing in mind that I don't really have any idea what I'm doing: Is there some other obvious cause I'm missing? Is there an easier way to knock the crap out of the carbs than disassembly? Like shooting the intake full of starting fluid to try to get it running, then if that works dumping a bunch of seafoam into the tank along with the fresh gas? I expect that wouldn't really work so well, which is why I expect to have to take the things apart. Is there a decent primer on cleaning SV carbs, hopefully on par with that blueproof site for the valves? I don't have any idea what I'm doing, so pictures are super helpful. Do I need to order all new rubber bits for the carbs, and if so what shop is preferred? I'm hoping to get this done by April, and at the rate I can work given my incompetence and an 18 month old running around that might just be doable. Then I can finally replace my five year old tires!
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Feb 11, 2013 04:41
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I've never done SV carbs, but on my thumper the culprit for every post-storage start is bad gas in the float bowl. This has happened to me many times: can't get it to fire up, change the gas and it still won't go, then after killing the battery several times I remember to dump the old gunk out of the float bowl and it will start easily with choke, then I have to run some wire through the jets to make it run like new again. So based on that completely anecdotal and possibly irrelevant experience, I'd start by making sure those carbs are really empty of old gas.
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Feb 11, 2013 16:20
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AncientTV posted:99 problems So all this poo poo ended up being a couple freeze plugs that had popped out $2 later and it's holding coolant fine. I'm in the market for a bunch of 1st gen parts still, PM me if you have any of this:
I buy lovely bikes.
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Feb 15, 2013 05:54
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I think I have a rear seat and rear brake assembly. Send me an email and I'll check.
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Feb 15, 2013 06:18
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So how the gently caress are you supposed to remove the bolt behind the right hand foot peg on a K4? I'm trying to replace my knackered brake pedal but the instructions in my Haynes manual are pretty vague. They seem to be suggesting this can be done without removing the rearset but I can't see how. To make matters more fun the two bolts in the centre of the rearset (not the ones holding it to the frame, the two attached to the actual brake assembly) seem to have been screwed in by God when he was having a bad day, I managed to break an allen key without even budging them!
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Feb 15, 2013 21:30
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I'm looking into getting my first motorcycle. I just got my license in September and I was able to get some riding on my buddies SV650. The motorcycle felt like a good fit for me so I've been looking into getting one and I may have found one that I want to buy. I want to know if this is a good deal or if I should try to get him to go lower on the price. I asked if he would lower the price if he didn't include the helmet/jacket and he said he would part with it for $3300. I also went to check out the bike and I got some more information. It turns out that it has a salvage title because its a frankebike. It has an 07 SV650 motor on an 05 SV650 frame plus all the extras listed below. Would this be something I should even consider or would you suggest that I try to get him to lower the price? Here is the listing: 2005 SV 650 Bike was originally set up as a track bike and thus still has some items safety wired. Has some weight shed professionally by previous owner in Wisconsin. Mileage 18K Extras on the bike: Leo Vince exhaust K&N air filter 2009 ZX10 rear shock Front Maier racing springs New speed kit sprockets and chain (around 1,000 miles on them) New tires ( >1,000 miles on them) Integrated rear taillight and turn signals Fender eliminator Rear tire hugger Frame sliders New iridium spark plugs ( > 1,000 miles ago) Radiator flushed ( > 1,000 miles ago) Will also include: Large Black Helmet Large Shift Textile Jacket Rear Bike Stand $3500 http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/mcy/3607571683.html
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Feb 25, 2013 02:06
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If the thought of a salvage title doesn't bother you then I wouldn't let that alone deter you. The only issues I've ever heard about concerning a salvage title are that banks sometimes won't finance them and some people won't buy them so you may have to work a little harder to resell it later. It seems like a decent deal, not a screaming cheap one nor an overpriced one either. If it was me I'd take it to a shop and have a good mechanic look it over. Oh and all those extras on the bike are nice but if the seller is trying to use them to justify price he's dead wrong. You rarely get money back out of mods like those. Get a mechanics word on it and proceed from there.
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Feb 25, 2013 03:05
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The loving SV info app said that the stock length for the S was 110 links, but after installing and having to adjust all the way back, I found out that it's actually 108. Now I get to dick around with removing links.
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Feb 28, 2013 05:39
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AncientTV posted:The loving SV info app said that the stock length for the S was 110 links, but after installing and having to adjust all the way back, I found out that it's actually 108. Now I get to dick around with removing links. At least you didn't go the other way and cut it one short like I have. For I am a dumbass.
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Feb 28, 2013 05:48
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I found an 09 sv650sf with 4000 miles. They are asking 4500 for it. As far as I know there is nothing wrong with it. Is that a pretty good deal?
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Feb 28, 2013 17:01
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Laid my 2005 SV650S down swerving to avoid a car pulling out in front of me, damage doesn't seem bad--local shop took a look and said frame and forks were good although I'll need to look at replacing the stock exhaust and the rear brake lever was bent at a pretty bad angle. Tried to bend it back and it broke. I'd like to avoid going with a stock brake lever if possible, and I've not seen any aftermarket brake levers that were made for the SV650 and on the sv riders forums all the links I've clicked on seem to be dead. Does anyone have any recommendations on a replacement rear brake lever and if so, I'd be up for getting a matching replacement shift lever and foot rests as well. Any tips on picking out a replacement exhaust pipe or moto sliders also? Brands or anything like that? I apologize if this is a dumb question, I'm not sure what to look for and although I admittedly may be looking in the wrong places, there doesn't really seem to be a whole lot of aftermarket parts that I'm finding and no one around locally.
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Mar 12, 2013 04:08
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http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=13173 These are what you want. Also, here is a cheap Leo Vince ($286) slipon. http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=3806 BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Mar 12, 2013 |
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Mar 12, 2013 04:22
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Its a question of how much you want to spend really, there will be plenty of OEM brake levers on ebay. for aftermarket brake levers you'll can get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-SV-650-K5-Naked-No-ABS-2005-Rear-Brake-Foot-Lever-/150819251450?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231d8724fa or replace the whole footped setup with new rearsets something like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/SV650-Black...=item5ae3c31abe same story with exhausts cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/SS70-Stainl...e6f032f&vxp=mtr less cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/YOSHIMURA-R...7dd21c5&vxp=mtr lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Suzuki...fd24652&vxp=mtr
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Mar 12, 2013 04:25
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I'm about to get my first motorcycle. I've always, always wanted an SV650 to start and am finally pulling the trigger. What do you guys think of this one? http://orlando.craigslist.org/mcd/3642979055.html Seems like a pretty good deal to me. Also the fact that the owner managed to type up a fairly detailed ad without any grammatical or spelling errors bodes well IMO. It also appears the bike may have been kept in a storage facility judging by the pictures, so it seems like its in pretty good shape. Can't wait to join the club!
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Mar 12, 2013 17:15
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So tires. I went to go ride this weekend when it was nice out in my area (NE Ohio) and noticed just the slightest bit of cords beginning to peek through my rear tire. I want to get back on the bike as fast as possible, and I want to know what the honest opinion of Shinko tires are for this bike. I honestly don't do a lot of hard riding or pushing anything, mostly backroad cruising to/from work etc. Haven't done a ton of recreational riding with no destination in mind, etc but will likely do some this summer with my  goon friend Manawski on his CBR250R. High speeds aren't really going to be much of an issue there. The price point is great, but if they're absolute garbage and dangerous, obviously I'll stay away. Anyone had any experience with them?
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Mar 12, 2013 18:31
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They are garbage and dangerous.
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Mar 12, 2013 19:40
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KARMA! posted:They are garbage and dangerous. Could you expand upon what makes them so bad? That's not exactly informative. If it's something like "cornering grip seems less than confidence inspiring at full lean angles" etc; I've read that and I'm not sure it really applies to me because I'm not the knee dragging type in the least.
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Mar 12, 2013 19:43
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They are absolute poo poo do not buy Chinese tires. Ever. They don't grip, they don't heat up, they don't flex. They will however spin, slide, give out and hurt you. Riding on new shinkos is like riding on 10 year old touring tires. Gives me the shudders
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Mar 12, 2013 20:21
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Spend money on the things that separate you from the ground.
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Mar 12, 2013 21:52
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RuPaul Levesque posted:Could you expand upon what makes them so bad? That's not exactly informative. If it's something like "cornering grip seems less than confidence inspiring at full lean angles" etc; I've read that and I'm not sure it really applies to me because I'm not the knee dragging type in the least. See post: Spiffness posted:They are absolute poo poo do not buy Chinese tires. Ever. You're skimping on the #1 most important safety feature. This is not like a car where one wheel just slipping and sliding all over is no big deal. This has nothing to do with racer type malarky and all about not wiping out in the dumbest ways because you couldn't find a way to save up fifty bucks more on the most important feature on your bike. poo poo happens whether you egged it on or not and you really don't wan't your bike to lose grip because you rode over some raised paint at a slight angle, or had to brake moderately hard and having your front slide out, or finding yourself in the path of a wayward pebble that makes your bike buck way out of alignment because you have greasy, rock hard, unforgiving tyres from the land of the many dynasties. It's just really, really bad idea. Almost as bad as riding around on cords. What the gently caress man.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:13
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KARMA! posted:Almost as bad as riding around on cords. What the gently caress man. Don't be a dick. I wasn't riding around on cords, and I didn't take the god drat bike out with the tires the way they were. People like you are why people new to riding and with genuine interest in a topic might not ask about it. Also MooseNose posted:I've had several sets of Shinkos on my SV and never had a problem. They were surprisingly good tires for typical street and even some aggressive riding. If had to go back to pinching pennies I'd have no qualms about buying them again. Seems to suggest that while your opinion isn't invalid, you also aren't the Dalai Lama.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:32
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Thanks for the great information! Definitely getting the frame sliders. The reviews for that LeoVince look good, would it be something that I could put on and keep for the life of the bike? Since I'm coming off stock I'm sure everything is an upgrade but if there's anything that's better in this tier, I'd like to invest and do it now. Any reason to get the carbon over the aluminum? A couple reviews mentioned a high-mount, is that literally just a different type of mount or a different model of this exhaust and is that something you'd recommend? I didn't know about rearsets, I'll look into those--are they primarily used for adjusting the location of where the foot rests? If so, since I won't be racing my bike at all, is there some kind of angle or terminology I should look for to avoid something that gives too forward a riding position? Hadn't considered ebay to find parts! Thanks again!
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Mar 12, 2013 23:33
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RuPaul Levesque posted:Don't be a dick. I wasn't riding around on cords, and I didn't take the god drat bike out with the tires the way they were. Cords appearing on previously fine tires is a thing?
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Mar 12, 2013 23:48
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Seriously dude. I know you wanna hear 'get the Shinkos, save the $'. Don't get the Shinkos.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:52
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^your posts/opinion I have no problem with whatsoever, and I'm inclined to take this advice, I just don't get what Karma is gaining by being a twat about it. Well, the last time I had ridden the bike I went with a friend of mine for a pretty long ride. In fact the only long ride I'd ever gone on. This is the first time I've ever had to replace a rear tire so I didn't know it was as worn as it was. I don't have a lot of experience with the signs of a worn tire that isn't treaded, but I do check them every time I go out. And it's not like there's a huge patch of cord showing, it's a miniscule area. I'm sure I missed how worn the tire really was, but cut me a break it's not like I ran out with the entire center of my tire gone.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:56
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I really love pilot powers for how cheap they are and how well they stick. 150's / 160's are like 120 bucks you just need to take it and get it mounted. In my opinion it's REALLY not worth saving maybe 10 or 20 dollars and buying some generic rear end tire when you can get tires as awesome as Powers for so cheap.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:00
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JP Money posted:I really love pilot powers for how cheap they are and how well they stick. 150's / 160's are like 120 bucks you just need to take it and get it mounted. In my opinion it's REALLY not worth saving maybe 10 or 20 dollars and buying some generic rear end tire when you can get tires as awesome as Powers for so cheap. That's what mine had on it when I bought it, didn't realize they were that cheap. Local bike shop wants $239.00 installed which seemed like a lot to me.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:03
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I think my very first set of tires on the bike I may have worn down till just about the cord, it's a new rider thing to do. Karma is making a valid point, but coming on a bit strong. The two things you never, ever half rear end in motorcycling are your tires and your gear. Tires are the biggest part of your bikes performance and safety, hands down. As you get more experienced you'll be able to tell the difference brand to brand and compound by compound once you have a better idea of what the 'feel' of good tires is. Tires aren't a huge expense, especially if you just need to grab a set to do some lazy riding on and aren't heading to the track all the time. I don't know where you are located but if you have a local racing community (WERA, OMMRA, etc) you should check with the forums for cheap takeoffs. On my SV track bike I went through maybe half a dozen sets of tires in a year and a half and all of them would make great street tires. Next to no tread at the very outer edges but basically 100% life down the center where you'd use them on the street. You can get take offs for super cheap. $50. Free sometimes. So it's worth poking around. You'll end up with a pretty aggressive tire (compound) so if you live in a very frigid climate depending on the season of riding you're doing it may not be an option. Also the tires will be V'ed (opposite of squared off) and want to turn in pretty aggressively as their profile will have been shaped by hard use on road courses. After some miles they'll flatten out a bit and become more normal. So consider that route if the budget is tight.
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Mar 13, 2013 00:04
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| # ? May 13, 2024 22:36 |
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Well that's only the rear. The front will be ~100-105 dollars. If they're offering 239 installed for front and rear that's not a terrible deal at all. If they're saying 239 for just the rear installed tell them to gently caress off and never go there again. ^^ This is a great point that I always forget about. I live in a town with a track so I can always get takeoffs super cheap. It's pretty awesome if you're flexible on what to run. I got a pretty new 180 Q2 rear for ~40 bucks. A friend of mine mounts tires for 10 bucks. If you can do this in any way I'd recommend it. You'll save a poo poo ton of money. Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 00:05
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