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wilkenm posted:Well, I ignored common sense and placed an order for a 2013 WRX STI hatchback today. The standard WRX would have been plenty, but what the hell, you only live once, right? Unfortunately, it's about a 3 month wait for an ordered car, and my current lease is up in 2 months. A month of motorcycle-only transportation will be interesting. Congrats man. I ordered mine a few days ago, supposed to arrive in May. It's going to be a long wait.
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Jan 28, 2013 23:29
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I think I've read about that on Nasioc, something about water leaking into the side skirts or A pillar area maybe. Take it to the dealer.
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Jan 28, 2013 23:51
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Alpine Mustache posted:
Yes. Seems like it could be an issue with a wheel speed sensor or tone ring.
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Jan 29, 2013 00:37
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So my buddy is having a problem where a few seconds after cold start in his FXT, the idle goes haywire and drops fairly low before returning to sanity again. He logged this:  It looks like as soon as it drops into closed loop the A/F reading starts going bonkers and then becomes a normal O2 sensor again. It's so smooth it kind of reminds me of a diagram I read a few years ago in a Nissan service manual about how the ECU self-tests O2 sensor heaters. I have no idea what's going on here though because the second bounce doesn't look smooth at all. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 01:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So my buddy is having a problem where a few seconds after cold start in his FXT, the idle goes haywire and drops fairly low before returning to sanity again. My '98 LGT had burned the +12V heater feed wire in the front O2 sensor's harness (just upstream of the connector for the sensor, if memory serves). If the O2 sensor is only being heated by exhaust gas it might cause a rough initial idle after the closed-loop switch.
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Jan 29, 2013 01:41
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jamal posted:Yes. When my tone ring got hosed, I got an ABS light as well as cruise control issues.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:58
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sofullofhate posted:My '98 LGT had burned the +12V heater feed wire in the front O2 sensor's harness (just upstream of the connector for the sensor, if memory serves). If the O2 sensor is only being heated by exhaust gas it might cause a rough initial idle after the closed-loop switch. Wow. I thought the wiring that was burnt in thr 07 WRX was unique
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Jan 29, 2013 04:13
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Mercury Ballistic posted:My new-to-me 2009 WRX has what sounds like a bathtub full of water hiding under the passenger seat. I only hear it after the car has sat in the rain all night, and after a day it vanishes. I assume water is collecting somewhere, but a quick look at the trim panels under the doors revealed nothing. Anyone else have this issue? Subarus seem to have problems with clogs in the HVAC system preventing the drain from working right. When it's clogged the rain will fill up the heater box to the point where it will overflow on the passenger side if it goes long enough. Sloshing sounds are pretty standard with just a little trapped water. A couple of days after parking under a tree that was molting little leaves and then a big rain the same thing happened to our old legacy. The drain hose comes out under the car near the right front wheel, I stuck my air compressor nozzle up and gave it a quick blast and that took care of it. With respect to the timing belt it's pretty easy. The hardest part is taking the crank pulley off and there are a few tricks you can use. The rest of it is cake, just remove the old idlers and put the new ones on in the right order, line all the notches up, and pull the tensioner pin. There are plenty of youtube videos out there. Be careful when setting the belt guide spacing not to go too tight, my WRX came with a freshly installed belt and I had to redo it since the crank belt guide was chewing up the belt and it probably would have failed prematurely. Lucky I didn't take the PO's word for it, that could have been messy...
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Jan 29, 2013 04:57
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I can't have it till April, but the local dealership has the one I want now   Soon my pretty...soon
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Jan 29, 2013 16:52
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I had an awesome time at the autocross this weekend and gave me the motivation to pull apart the motor I have had sitting in the garage for a year and get it to the machine shop today. I now have a 2.6l ej257 in the works, turns out the previous owner of the block spun the poo poo out or a rod bearing, and there wasn't one to remove, so it will be needing a new one. Also it turns out that a pte6262 is not an autocross turbo, it was drift city when the lag was over. I wish I had video, it was at an airport and I was stretching 3rd gear in a few spots. New tires scrubbed in and lip mostly installed, street sweeper mode. 
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Jan 29, 2013 21:34
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e(Admitting first that I haven't read the entire gigantic thread) So, I'm acquiring a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon 5spd (for free) with 175,000 miles on it. New clutch at 150k, new suspension and axles all the way around at 155k, and upgraded headgasket at around 120k. It's a bit rusty (was a Connecticut, then a New York car), so there's that to contend with; I also know that since it is N/A there's not much I can do with power. The PO is an older gentleman who was meticulous with oil changes and all maintenance and recall items done at the dealer (3k oil changes since he bought it at around 18k miles), and has kept the interior absolutely spotless. He also just drove it cross-country to Phoenix to deliver it, and he says the car performed flawlessly (though he also says that he has never taken it above 65mph or 3,000 RPM, which I strangely believe because he is just that kind of guy). Besides the rust issues (there are a few spots with bubbling paint already, and the undercoating is absolutely peeling off), is there anything major I should look out for in regards to reliability? I've searched quite a few places, but all I have found out so far is that this is the redheaded stepchild (like all of my vehicles are, sigh) in regards to parts to the point where even the dealer has gotten confused a few times. I don't know about timing and water pump, but with how everything else is, I'm assuming it has been done on the dealer's schedule.
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Jan 30, 2013 02:19
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I'm not sure why a 97 Outback would be strange in any way - it's a fairly common car and there shouldn't be many one-off parts. Not like there's a lot of one-off parts in all of Subarudom anyway. '97 Outback is the DOHC 2.5L "Phase I" four cylinder. This means head gasket issues. Even if it was replaced once (probably under the recall) you should keep an eye on it because if the dealership did it, the gasket they replaced it with can fail again (see first post in this thread) until it is replaced/upgraded with a multilayer steel gasket (which I hope is what you mean by "upgraded"). The rust is fairly common, unfortunately. Where it gets bad for you is if the rust manages to eat through the fuel filler neck; there's a heat/rock shield around it that is supposed to protect the neck from rust but traps gravel and moisture against it. If the dealership did the work you may be able to pull the service records for the car by VIN at another Subaru dealership. I would make sure that you check for the timing belt stuff. Congratulations on the nice car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 02:54
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My second Impreza. The first was a red '02 NA wagon.   She's a little rough around the edges, but nothing that a little love can't fix.  e: Yes, I will eventually have some "what's that noise?" questions. Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 05:36
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Geirskogul posted:e(Admitting first that I haven't read the entire gigantic thread) Prepare your ears for a whole load of weird noises that mean nothing but still sound wrong. I've got almost the exact same car (98 Legacy, 100% on the dot maintenance., 175k miles) and it has a whole cacophany of little clicks, clunks, rattles, and thumps to keep things interesting. Some of the fun noises include: piston slap when cold, rattle from loose heat shields @ 3k rpm, squeak from the clutch pedal no matter how many joints I lubricate, sloshing from the rear window washer check valve failing, about a dozen small interior panel rattles, a satisfying thunk when you shift into neutral that can be heard with the windows down, a strange high-pitched noise from the engine under load above 4500RPM (injectors?), and of course the frameless windows rattle like loving crazy when you close the door with them rolled down (DON'T SLAM THE DOOR gently caress MAN I ALREADY TOLD YOU TWICE!). All that and my car is totally rust free (woo california), so I'm sure yours will have mine beat. All that and it hasn't once let me down. I love my noisy Subaru. There's also a good reason he never went above 65MPH, the car is geared really short. 4th and 5th are basically the same and at 70MPH you'll be hitting 3500RPM already. It's not a quiet engine to begin with either. It does pull pretty well for the power it has in 5th though so it's not all bad. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jan 30, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 09:25
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Does anyone else's rear wiper fluid nozzle leak a bit under heavy acceleration? Or is my wagon just pissing itself.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:56
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Amandyke posted:Does anyone else's rear wiper fluid nozzle leak a bit under heavy acceleration? Or is my wagon just pissing itself. Marking its territory.
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Jan 30, 2013 17:35
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Is there anything else I should replace when doing a timing belt @ 105k besides what comes in the kit (tensioner, idlers, pulleys) and the waterpump? I've seen the following recommended on various forums: thermostat, cam seals, crankshaft seal, oil pump seal and possibly even the oil pump or pickup (?). This is for an '05 LGT. What do you guys think?
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Jan 31, 2013 05:26
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Thermostat for sure. Use an OEM one. The oil pump is fine and if the seals aren't leaking don't touch them. Getting the cam gears off is a huge hassle anyway. You could replace the pickup but it's not really a "while you're at it" type thing. If you have a stock radiator that wouldn't be a bad thing to replace since it's getting drained and coming out anyway.
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Jan 31, 2013 06:05
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Adding to what jamal said, check the radiator hoses. Mine looked like death a 105k.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:11
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My wife's 2011 Outback 3.6R is coming up on 60k miles and will probably need new tires soon. Any recommendations for good all seasons for the stock wheels? They are the 17" 6 spoke aluminum factory wheels w/ the TPS monitors.
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Feb 1, 2013 23:12
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeContact+DWS They're reasonably priced, are a very well rounded tire, and they come with a 1 year manufacturer road hazard warranty at no extra cost.
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Feb 1, 2013 23:50
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bull3964 posted:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeContact+DWS A thousand times this, I've got these on my E46 right now and they are stunning.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:09
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I was also quite impressed with the DWS tires on my G35. They're particularly impressive if you need snow performance.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:35
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Thirding the Continental DWS. We have them on our 2011 OBS and they are great.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:36
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I picked up a '96 Outback Wagon with the 2.2 litre engine and a 5-speed to commute with. That combo is apparently the most hardy Subaru going, so i'm quite pleased. It's now time for some junkyard upgrades! What do I need besides the seats and switches to add heated seats?
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Feb 2, 2013 01:16
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Finally got all of the suspension done on the Legacy. It is super overkill and I flipping love it. Racecomp T1 coilovers, Whiteline front and rear sways, strut tower bar, ALK, control arms, track arms, ball joints, and tie rod ends. It rides about the way I expected, which is pretty rough at low speed on our lovely small town roads, but through corners and at speed it's crazy stable. Honestly, the most noticeable difference in everyday driving is the almost complete lack of dip and squat on acceleration and braking. It's about an inch lower than stock, which is ok with me. It's as low as it gets while still allowing for full suspension travel. Sorry for the lovely cellphone pics, but I've been too lazy to grab my DSLR during the ten minutes of daylight for which I am home during the day. Here's a before (with my summer wheels and bonus newer Subaru action):  (click for big) And here are a couple of after. It's really dirty. The winter wheels are not the best looking. They were cheap.   
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Feb 2, 2013 02:51
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The Jabberwocky posted:
Pictures aren't loading for me, lets try quoting. edit: Maybe imgur is down.
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Feb 2, 2013 03:39
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~images~
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The Jabberwocky posted:Finally got all of the suspension done on the Legacy. It is super overkill and I flipping love it. Racecomp T1 coilovers, Whiteline front and rear sways, strut tower bar, ALK, control arms, track arms, ball joints, and tie rod ends. It rides about the way I expected, which is pretty rough at low speed on our lovely small town roads, but through corners and at speed it's crazy stable. Looks great. I'm so glad you got everything on and aligned and you're happy with it.
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Feb 2, 2013 05:13
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What lateral links did you end up getting? It sounds pretty close to where I want to go with my own wagon. Unless I end up selling it and getting a clean-title 05-06 STI. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Feb 2, 2013 |
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Feb 2, 2013 05:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What lateral links did you end up getting? It sounds pretty close to where I want to go with my own wagon. This is the link kit I used http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA124. They let you adjust an awesome amount of stuff and seem waaaay stronger than the stock bits. jamal posted:Looks great. I'm so glad you got everything on and aligned and you're happy with it. I'm really happy with how it turned out, and super excited to get the winter tires off to see how it handles on some decent rubber too. Now just the brakes to go and I can start hunting for salvage STIs 
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Feb 2, 2013 06:23
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The Jabberwocky posted:Here's a before (with my summer wheels and bonus newer Subaru action): What wheels are those? I'm trying to figure out what to get for summer wheels for my legacy.
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Feb 3, 2013 16:45
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Slow is Fast posted:What wheels are those? I'm trying to figure out what to get for summer wheels for my legacy. They're 18" Enkei EKM3s. I like them since they look vaguely similar to the stock "snowflake" design. I had them powdercoated that color, since they looked a bit too blingy in the bright silver.
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Feb 3, 2013 21:34
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Are there options for a short shifter for a 2010 outback sport? I saw that subaru may have them, but I don't want to pay them. Does a WRX aftermarket shifter fit?
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Feb 4, 2013 03:25
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Yeah an 08+ wrx shifter is the same. I stick to kartboy.
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 03:47
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Just as another option, I have the COBB/Mode one in my WRX and I love it. You can customize it, which sounds gimmicky but really is nice when you get it set just right. I've had it nearly two years along with the COBB knob and have zero complaints about either one.
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Feb 4, 2013 07:01
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Re: 1997 Outback Legacy 2.5l 5spd Finally got to drive the (free) legacy today for awhile, and while the engine runs well and the transmission slots right into gear, there is considerable shudder. Unless I burn up the clutch trying to ease into every shift, the car oscillates front to back on just about every shift if the shift is even the slightest bit rough, like every single mount between the engine and transmission are made of bedsprings. Bad mounts then, yeah? I'd like to think it's not me, as I've driven standard vehicles for years without this issue.
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Feb 4, 2013 15:15
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Halp I think it broke     Posted just the first one in the Post your ride thread but I figured the rest wouldn't be inappropriate here. Last time this got mushed up it was $3k and way less damage. I think this time it may be done for with the airbags popped. It's all fixable damage but I don't think a 13 year old Forester with 142k miles on it is worth throwing another $4-5k at when with a bit of luck we could probably find one slightly newer for that price, even if my fiance is in love with the first gen body. I like it too but they're getting harder to find around here in good shape. So um... theoretically anyone want a perfectly good parts car at a reasonable price? (Depending on what the repair estimate comes out to, and it isn't technically mine to sell, just putting it out there as a possibility) It runs and drives (rear suspension is messed up so I wouldn't drive it FAR, but it made it a mile without obviously hurting anything to get to a safe place to call for a tow, and then made it up on the tow truck on its own power) and the engine has new valve cover gaskets and plugs...
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Feb 4, 2013 15:44
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Where are you located? Also is it normal for a '96 Outback 2.2's clutch to take up reeeeallly close to the floor and have very little travel? New master or slave cylinder?
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Feb 4, 2013 15:48
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Polymerized Cum posted:Where are you located? Pittsburgh, PA
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Feb 4, 2013 15:50
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What extra stupid parts do I need to get the STi alu control arms in my 2002 RS. Some weird rear end conical washer and new ball joints?
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Feb 4, 2013 17:29
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