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Faerunner posted:Pittsburgh, PA That's a bit of a haul from Albany. Soz m8.
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Feb 4, 2013 18:50
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Geirskogul posted:Re: 1997 Outback Legacy 2.5l 5spd Yeah, must be bad mounts or something, because the car jiggles forward/backwards even when trolling around in 1st or 2nd gear without me even letting off the gas, like when slowly rolling up a sidewalk cut to a parking spot or donking around side streets.
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Feb 4, 2013 18:57
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Yeah the motor mounts do eventually go bad. Mine were trashed when I got the car, but a friend had just taken the stock mounts of his new STi to put in cuscos so I threw them in. Motor mounts are pretty much the same for every Subaru ever. The control arm conical boss thing for the ball joints is 20216FA000
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Feb 4, 2013 19:27
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Geirskogul posted:Yeah, must be bad mounts or something, because the car jiggles forward/backwards even when trolling around in 1st or 2nd gear without me even letting off the gas, like when slowly rolling up a sidewalk cut to a parking spot or donking around side streets. Could be the trailing arm bushings too, mine were bad and the drivetrain slack was incredible.
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Feb 4, 2013 21:44
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So, my father is giving me his 2002 WRX Wagon that he is replacing with a new car. He is insisting that I pay nothing for it since he has had a few problems recently with radiator hoses and the car leaving him stranded. Other issues I know of is that it needs a new clutch, and the check engine light came on a little while ago, was diagnosed as a bad catalytic converter, and then went away without it being replaced. My questions are, is there a good aftermarket clutch alternative I should be looking into? I have a friend who is a mechanic so I'll get no hassles about whatever part I want to put in and I get the labor at a discount. I'm not looking for a high performance type option either. Just something that will perform like the OEM clutch but perhaps more durable. I read the OP here and see the checklist of typical things to have gone over and I will definitely have those looked at. Anything else specific to WRX's from that era I should be concerned with?
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Feb 5, 2013 15:08
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toadee posted:So, my father is giving me his 2002 WRX Wagon that he is replacing with a new car. He is insisting that I pay nothing for it since he has had a few problems recently with radiator hoses and the car leaving him stranded. Other issues I know of is that it needs a new clutch, and the check engine light came on a little while ago, was diagnosed as a bad catalytic converter, and then went away without it being replaced. For clutches either go OEM exedy or exedy stage 1. Jamal may have better recommendations so do whatever he says. OEM Clutch: http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/KSB03 Stage 1 Organic: http://www.exedyusa.com/15802 As for maintenance items, switch to an sti catless up pipe if you get a chance. Enjoy the car for what it is, do some rallycross with it!
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Feb 5, 2013 16:15
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Replace the up pipe with a catless one now. Yesterday.
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Feb 5, 2013 16:47
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Sorry if this is a dumb question/concern, but, is replacing it with a catless one going to cause issues with emissions testing?
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Feb 5, 2013 16:55
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toadee posted:Sorry if this is a dumb question/concern, but, is replacing it with a catless one going to cause issues with emissions testing? No, but it will prevent that cat from disintegrating and grenading your turbo.
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Feb 5, 2013 16:57
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Amandyke posted:No, but it will prevent that cat from disintegrating and grenading your turbo. Sounds like a plan then, thanks!
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Feb 5, 2013 17:22
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toadee posted:So, my father is giving me his 2002 WRX Wagon that he is replacing with a new car. He is insisting that I pay nothing for it since he has had a few problems recently with radiator hoses and the car leaving him stranded. Other issues I know of is that it needs a new clutch, and the check engine light came on a little while ago, was diagnosed as a bad catalytic converter, and then went away without it being replaced. 2002 WRX crew (I'm guessing you live near me too from your avatar). If your dad has records I would double check the maintenance records and get it back on track. Biggest problems I would say are the uppipe, radiator, and wheel bearings. If your struts haven't been replaced, maybe you can look into that. E: Also refrain from hard launches and power shifting. 2002 and 2003 5-speeds don't do well with that, future ones don't get much better. Neptr fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 18:06
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There may also be some service due on the car. If you have records for it that would be helpful, but basically it's just fluids for the first 100k and then the timing stuff. For an up-pipe you can find a used one from a later wrx or an sti (they all fit the same but the 02-05 wrx, and some turbo Foresters and Legacys got cats), or go with aftermarket. I get the invidia ones for pretty cheap (it's something like 150). And then for the clutch it depends if you plan to upgrade stuff and want to make more power. A slightly stronger clutch means you don't have to worry about it if you go to a bigger turbo at some point.
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Feb 5, 2013 18:43
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jamal posted:Thermostat for sure. Use an OEM one. Also, anyone know of a cheaper and/or closer-to-the-west-coast store than fred beans that sells 30k/60k tune-up parts/fluids (either bundled or not)
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Feb 5, 2013 20:31
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Splinter posted:Probably not going to do the radiator now, but what do you recommend for if/when I do it? I'm currently at stock power but may get a downpipe/tune at some point. I've got an OEM replacement radiator and have had no problems with it. Considering how my OEM lasted 10 years and 110,000 miles I'm just fine with a replacement lasting that long as well. Couldn't justify the price of an all aluminum one on a street car.
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Feb 5, 2013 20:53
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07 WRX wagoneer checking in; curious if my plan for the car (to eventually get it near the same power as my old STi) is solid or needs revision... The car's only current modification is a set of cobb sport springs. It's been an interesting winter with the snow we got, but I haven't gotten stuck yet! I'm looking at getting a catless DP for the stock TD04 - http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=146, to be specific, and a custom tune from a reputable shop in my area. The turbo is original and the car has 88,000 miles on it. Does this seem like a good starting point, or are there other things to consider? I appreciate any advice.
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Feb 5, 2013 21:10
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Subaru genuine parts is in WA state. Just send them an e-mail. For radiators I'm partial to Koyo (they're about 350). Mishimoto is cheaper but for some reason they don't make them for an 05-09 Legacy.
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Feb 5, 2013 21:11
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I've got a Mishimoto in my N/A wagon. The radiator cap shipped with it is garbage and the pressure is rated way higher than need be. It works great and is much thicker than the OEM unit, to the point my little N/A 2.5L has had trouble keeping the temperature needle at full warm on REALLY cold  days.
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Feb 5, 2013 22:38
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YarPirate posted:07 WRX wagoneer checking in; curious if my plan for the car (to eventually get it near the same power as my old STi) is solid or needs revision... The car's only current modification is a set of cobb sport springs. It's been an interesting winter with the snow we got, but I haven't gotten stuck yet! That's definitely the standard path for a wrx. $500 is a little pricey for a catless downpipe although I can get you one of those for less. You could do an intake with it. Some people on the internet say they are worthless but that hasn't been my experience. And then after that you're at the turbo, intercooler, injectors stage. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 22:58
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jamal posted:That's definitely the standard path for a wrx. $500 is a little pricey for a catless downpipe although I can get you one of those for less. My buddy with an 06 wrx is running an 18g and making 300whp on the stock intake. FWIW
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Feb 5, 2013 23:38
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Just because you can make x whp on the stock intake doesn't mean the car won't make more with an aftermarket piece. If he did it would probably make 310-315. Harman Motive did a really nice dyno test of a bunch of intakes years ago proving that they work, but the site doesn't exist anymore. I wish I'd saved everything back when it was up. What they did was take a stock car, set a baseline, install all the different intakes and untuned dyno pulls, then put the stock intake back on, tuned it, then put all the intakes on and did the same thing, and then did tunes for all the intakes. So some (specifically the injen) made the car run dangerously lean without tuning, but they all gained power. I think the AEM was like a 17whp difference. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 23:43
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What injector size is the stock fuel pump good till? One of the reasons I haven't done it yet is because I didn't really want to go through that much trouble. I have an 05 2l wrx.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:03
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Somewhere around 550-600cc is all you want on the stock pump. The fuel pump is really easy to change though and a walbro is cheap.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:24
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So does anyone sell new up pipes for a 2004 WRX? Mine is pretty much all original at 86K and I keep hearing how I need to get rid of the stock up pipe. Only mods are new tires and Cobb AP Stage 1.
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Feb 6, 2013 01:49
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Yep. To change the up-pipe you need to pull the downpipe, so at the very least you want to get a couple of new gaskets, and it's also a good time to change the downpipe. Since you have an AP you'd just need to change the map for it all to work which is nice. I've always had pretty good luck with invidia parts, but there are like a dozen other options. Perrin, HKS, Greddy, GTspec, Grimmspeed, etc. They're all like 140-200.
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Feb 6, 2013 03:44
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While waiting for my 13 STi to arrive, I've been doing a ton of research, but I'm still kind of stumped by the whole ring land issue. Is this still a problem? Some people are claiming that the incidents have died down a lot since the 08 model. Others argue back and forth about aftermarket tuning. Really, the only thing I have planned for this car (down the line) is an access port, Cobb cai, and up/down pipe. Are these things that exacerbate any engine problems? Is the stock tune to blame? Sorry, I just trust y'all's opinions more than the kids on nasioc.
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Feb 6, 2013 13:52
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Just wanted to day "never rebuild a N/A 2.5"
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Feb 6, 2013 14:44
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daslog posted:Just wanted to day "never rebuild a N/A 2.5" Why not?
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Feb 6, 2013 16:56
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Faerunner posted:Why not? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3439775&pagenumber=12#post412263256
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Feb 6, 2013 17:00
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daslog posted:Just wanted to day "never rebuild a N/A 2.5" Nah, nah. Don't rebuild a '99 transitional N/A 2.5 This is why I got a brand new shortblock :v
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Feb 6, 2013 18:05
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c355n4 posted:Nah, nah. Don't rebuild a '99 transitional N/A 2.5 Isn't a 2L WRX swap probably cheaper anyway?
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Feb 6, 2013 18:15
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Ugh, my headers won't fit on my STi without changing the oil pan. Guess I'm oil pan shopping now. 
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Feb 6, 2013 18:27
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DJ Commie posted:Isn't a 2L WRX swap probably cheaper anyway? If your wiring time is worthless, sure!
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Feb 6, 2013 18:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If your wiring time is worthless, sure! Well, it is!
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Feb 6, 2013 18:32
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Which Bearings should I get for my Crank with the 48MM Rod bearing journal? ACL Clevite DNJ Clevites seem to be the lowest price, ACL the highest daslog fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 19:07
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Roman Rambo posted:Ugh, my headers won't fit on my STi without changing the oil pan. Guess I'm oil pan shopping now. Huh? The sti is the one that has all the extra clearance for twin-scroll cars. I don't think one exists that would allow better header fitment. What pan and what headers do you have?
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Feb 7, 2013 01:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If your wiring time is worthless, sure! I've been casually doing research on WRX swaps, is the engine wiring really integrated into the rest of the body harness? I'm used to BMWs where wiring for an engine swap basically consists of looking up pinouts for the engine harness and body harness then connecting the right ones.
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Feb 7, 2013 03:40
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Crustashio posted:I've been casually doing research on WRX swaps, is the engine wiring really integrated into the rest of the body harness? I'm used to BMWs where wiring for an engine swap basically consists of looking up pinouts for the engine harness and body harness then connecting the right ones. There are some shops that will sell you a merge wiring harness.
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Feb 7, 2013 04:13
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Crustashio posted:I've been casually doing research on WRX swaps, is the engine wiring really integrated into the rest of the body harness? Indeed there are some online shops that will do a merged wiring harness if you tell them what car you are going from/to. Usually that job costs between $800-1000 whenever I've priced it out, though that might end up being much cheaper than doing wiring for a few hours: For a good practical example check out the wiring images at: http://www.powerlabs.org/jdmsubaru.htm There are some wiring swaps that are quite easy; a friend's USDM EJ205 to JDM EJ207 swap required a very small (3 wires, IIRC) wiring harness to add AVCS variable valve timing. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 05:19
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How difficult is to swap a 2.0 twin scrolll jdm engine to an 07' USDM STI?
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Feb 7, 2013 15:43
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99 Forester, ~180k miles for $2k With all those service records, I couldn't say no to it. Pick up is Monday.
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Feb 7, 2013 18:50
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