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Plexiglas is a good idea as well. Will the price be similar to glass? I think I prefer plexiglas due to it being more damage resistant. I am even more angry at this shop now, seeing how easy it is. They gave me some line about manufacturing exclusivity and other profession-related jargon explaining how what I wanted was so completly un-doable without paying out the nose because everything would have to be custom-made. I would have paid up to $200 for this job, yet they squandered that in an attempt to make a big sale. EDIT: The middle panel where the glass is located is square, not round, which makes it easier. Only the top of the door is round, and that is where the screen panel is. (He also fed me a line about how the glass would be impossible to just replace with any old glass. This is when I started to doubt him. I may not know anything about doors, contracting, and instalation, but a screen is a screen, just cut it to fit, and I dont need to replace the glass with only the same exact manufacturer's glass for my same exact door) Nerdfest X fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 03:12
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Any suggestions on how to improve these outlet and switch covers? Most of the walls in my parent's new (to them) house are made from logs and have a slight curve to them. I can't seem to find a way to make them look nice. 
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Feb 5, 2013 03:25
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Google is your friend : http://www.woodwallplates.com/ The other option would be to turn them sideways & route the openings flat - but that's easiest done during construction. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 04:05
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Lt Moose posted:Any suggestions on how to improve these outlet and switch covers? Most of the walls in my parent's new (to them) house are made from logs and have a slight curve to them. I can't seem to find a way to make them look nice. Heh, who would do that? Nothing is going to make them look nice until they are flat. I mean you could shim them from behind - I've used washers on the screws to shim the plate/outlet out before when the outlet was recessed into the wall too much - but they really need to be flat to look good. You could try inserting shims on the top and bottom but I don't think that would look much better. Really you probably need to mount solid, flat blocks of wood in there and mount the outlet to that. One last thing would be to mill or cut the wood down flat so the whole cover is recessed into the wood. You might be able to do this reasonably quickly with an oscillating multi-tool.
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Feb 5, 2013 05:05
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Thanks for the suggestions, guess I wasn't googling for the right words. I agree, I think they would look best mounted on something flat. I like how these look, I'll see what we can come up with here. http://loghomeshoppe.com/previewimage.asp?pid=113&prodtype=product Another question: The house has a radiant heating system installed in the basement and garage, however the old system used a large wood burning boiler outside to heat the water. They were quoted $10k to install a Lochinvar Knight boiler and a new 40gal indirect hot water heater. Does that seem typical? They didn't give a specific model number, but based on the specs given I think that particular boiler is around $2600, which in that case it seems like the quoted amount is way too much.
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Feb 5, 2013 07:21
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Before he died my dad ordered some windows for his house, my brother and I fitted them this weekend, cursing him roundly for not measuring accurately as we did  However the old frames were held in place on the outside by a strip of white mortar about an inch wide, this fell out when we removed them and now I need to fill that gap, I've stuck a bunch of expanding foam in there for now but it's not pretty and will need to be covered, should I just put in a line of ordinary mortar between the brick window surround and the wooden window frame, or is there something special I should use? (I'm in northern france if that helps)
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Feb 5, 2013 11:29
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Lt Moose posted:Any suggestions on how to improve these outlet and switch covers? Most of the walls in my parent's new (to them) house are made from logs and have a slight curve to them. I can't seem to find a way to make them look nice. HD/lowes/local stores also carry wooden face plates. You might be able to sand them to match, removing the need for the giant block mount.
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Feb 5, 2013 15:21
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Nerdfest X posted:Plexiglas is a good idea as well. Will the price be similar to glass? I think I prefer plexiglas due to it being more damage resistant. Plexiglass isn't more damage resistant. It's super easy to scratch plexiglass. You will want to get tempered glass for a door though, simply due to the stresses of the door slamming shut.
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Feb 5, 2013 18:05
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yaffle posted:Before he died my dad ordered some windows for his house, my brother and I fitted them this weekend, cursing him roundly for not measuring accurately as we did can you take a picture? Sounds like you could just use quarter round or some other standard trim piece to go around the edge.
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Feb 5, 2013 18:25
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My microwave, a random built-in GE that came with the house, has started to have the interior fan (not the vent for the stove) occasionally turn on for a few seconds when the microwave door is opened. The light turns on as it should, but the turn-table does not spin when this happens. It usually happens after the microwave has been used, then left idle for maybe an hour or so. I don't think I've seen it happen immediatley after using the microwave. It seems to happen frequently, but certainly not every time. My wive claims the microwave is actually turning on when the door opens, but I say it's just something broken with the fan or door. Regardless of what it is, it shouldn't be doing it either way. Is there an easy to troubleshoot this? The microwave otherwise works normally as expected - the display works fine, turntable works, microwave cooks fine, etc.
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Feb 5, 2013 21:26
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Voodoo posted:My microwave, a random built-in GE that came with the house, has started to have the interior fan (not the vent for the stove) occasionally turn on for a few seconds when the microwave door is opened. The light turns on as it should, but the turn-table does not spin when this happens. It usually happens after the microwave has been used, then left idle for maybe an hour or so. I don't think I've seen it happen immediatley after using the microwave. It seems to happen frequently, but certainly not every time. There's triple redundancy- 2 microswitches in series that allow the microwave to turn on, and a third that shorts the magnetron to ground and blows a fuse if one of the other microswitches has failed.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:46
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Voodoo posted:My microwave, a random built-in GE that came with the house, has started to have the interior fan (not the vent for the stove) occasionally turn on for a few seconds when the microwave door is opened. The light turns on as it should, but the turn-table does not spin when this happens. It usually happens after the microwave has been used, then left idle for maybe an hour or so. I don't think I've seen it happen immediatley after using the microwave. It seems to happen frequently, but certainly not every time. Google "GE Microwave Fires" and see if yours is one of them. Lots of people having fires and unexplained phantom operation. I personally would replace it as soon as I could.
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Feb 6, 2013 02:09
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I want to build a thing out of (probably polystyrene) foam panels like the blue or pink panels you find at a hardware store. I plan to cut out shapes on a number of sheets using a hot wire and glue these layers together to form the complete shape. What would be a good glue between these panels, and once the shape is assembled what would be a good way to seal and paint it. I think many paints and glues will dissolve polystyrene.
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Feb 6, 2013 13:09
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peepsalot posted:I want to build a thing out of (probably polystyrene) foam panels like the blue or pink panels you find at a hardware store. I plan to cut out shapes on a number of sheets using a hot wire and glue these layers together to form the complete shape. What would be a good glue between these panels, and once the shape is assembled what would be a good way to seal and paint it. I think many paints and glues will dissolve polystyrene. Latex paint will seal the polystyrene. I made Halloween tombstone decorations out of styrofoam insulation, painted them first with latex paint, and then was able to spray paint words and designs on them (if I didn't coat them with latex paint first, the spray paint would've dissloved the styrofoam). After you coat them with latex paint, I would think that regular glue (e.g. Elmers) would work fine.
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Feb 6, 2013 15:17
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peepsalot posted:I want to build a thing out of (probably polystyrene) foam panels like the blue or pink panels you find at a hardware store. I plan to cut out shapes on a number of sheets using a hot wire and glue these layers together to form the complete shape. What would be a good glue between these panels, and once the shape is assembled what would be a good way to seal and paint it. I think many paints and glues will dissolve polystyrene. http://www.thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue.cgi?lang=en&this=Styrofoam&that=Styrofoam
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Feb 6, 2013 15:46
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peepsalot posted:I want to build a thing out of (probably polystyrene) foam panels like the blue or pink panels you find at a hardware store. I plan to cut out shapes on a number of sheets using a hot wire and glue these layers together to form the complete shape. What would be a good glue between these panels, and once the shape is assembled what would be a good way to seal and paint it. I think many paints and glues will dissolve polystyrene. The 3m 77 spray is probably a great choice. I'd also wander over to McMaster, search adhesives and see what you can find. They'll list the compatability of most of them. Any excuse to browse McMaster is a good one in my opinion.
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Feb 6, 2013 16:18
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asdf32 posted:The 3m 77 spray is probably a great choice. I'd also wander over to McMaster, search adhesives and see what you can find. They'll list the compatability of most of them. Any excuse to browse McMaster is a good one in my opinion. I came to post 3M 77 spray. It's completely awesome on the pink or blue foam. Sticks really, really, really solid. After they're glued together, then seal with latex paint.
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Feb 6, 2013 18:51
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I'm looking to have permanent stickers created that I can affix to some metal laser housings. Is this possible? What kind of materials/printing process am I looking at? Edit: is it possible to have some sort of metal stickers printed? Unicorn Vomit fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 12:42
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You're probably better off having someone else make them. There are quite a few manufacturers out there that will print metal stickers/decals and such. http://www.metalmarkermfg.com/decals
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Feb 7, 2013 17:25
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Does anyone have experience sewing canvas by hand? What needles and thread do I want to make a basic bag to hold stuff under the backseat of my truck?
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Feb 8, 2013 18:56
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Atticus_1354 posted:Does anyone have experience sewing canvas by hand? What needles and thread do I want to make a basic bag to hold stuff under the backseat of my truck? Look into sailmaker's supplies. Big fuckoff needle and a leather palm guard so you can actually shove it through multiple layers of canvas. This is gonna be a big loving job, I hope you realize that.
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Feb 8, 2013 20:28
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stubblyhead posted:Look into sailmaker's supplies. Big fuckoff needle and a leather palm guard so you can actually shove it through multiple layers of canvas. This is gonna be a big loving job, I hope you realize that. I do realize that. I just remembered my dad made some canvas bags way back when so I think I will see if he still has his stuff or suggestions.
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Feb 9, 2013 00:20
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If you aren't picky about how it looks, a sewing awl can be awesome. I use one to stitch hockey leather and ripstop nylon to keep my hockey gear repaired.
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Feb 9, 2013 16:39
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Tim Thomas posted:If you aren't picky about how it looks, a sewing awl can be awesome. I use one to stitch hockey leather and ripstop nylon to keep my hockey gear repaired. How would you go about repairing and possibly modifying a leather overcoat? It's pretty old, thick leather, and I think it might damage the sewing machine.
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Feb 9, 2013 17:52
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Underflow posted:How would you go about repairing and possibly modifying a leather overcoat? It's pretty old, thick leather, and I think it might damage the sewing machine. Take it to a good dry cleaner and they will repair it. Price has always been very reasonable in my experience.
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Feb 9, 2013 19:23
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I've got a small grotesque that I managed to drop down a flight of stairs, knocking off both its wings. It's cement, and I'm wondering if I can use some epoxy Water Weld putty that I already have to fix it or if I should just Gorilla Glue or something similar. Anyone have experience fixing broken stone/cement?
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Feb 9, 2013 19:29
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wormil posted:Take it to a good dry cleaner and they will repair it. Price has always been very reasonable in my experience. Also double check with a cobbler. They have some serious sewing machines and will be familiar with leather goods.
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Feb 9, 2013 19:39
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My house has got cedar shingle siding which is generally in pefectly ok shape but the corners in many places have opened up to form gaps. Some of them would definitely require inserting new shingles but other cracks are on the order of 1/4" to 1/2". I think going up there with stainless steel nails and hammering them down would help, but some will definitely still have gaps. So do I need to replace the shingles or is there a caulking appropriate for this task? I've never done any siding work before.
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Feb 9, 2013 19:45
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Is there any way I can make pepper spray or any other kind of chemical dog deterrent in bulk? I need to deter dogs from making GBS threads on my property. I live in a neighborhood with lazy rear end dog owners who let their dogs poo poo on the sidewalk in front of my house and on my lawn. Yesterday I had a contractor come look at my roof and let them come in with their shoes on, and they stepped on poo poo before they came in. I didn't realize until they left  Anyway, I've tried pepper spray on the perimeter which seems to work well but is expensive for the long term. Is there any way I create a similar solution on the cheap, and perhaps put it in a chemical sprayer to apply every few weeks?
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Feb 9, 2013 20:11
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This probably won't help much since I don't think it will stick... but a majority of dogs hate citrus, so you could make a relatively cheap spray out of orange peels and have delicious oranges as a bonus. I suspect it will just wash away 30 minutes after you spray it, though.
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Feb 9, 2013 20:57
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wormil posted:Take it to a good dry cleaner and they will repair it. Price has always been very reasonable in my experience. XmasGiftFromWife posted:Also double check with a cobbler. They have some serious sewing machines and will be familiar with leather goods. Thanks.
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Feb 9, 2013 21:30
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Bank posted:Is there any way I can make pepper spray or any other kind of chemical dog deterrent in bulk? I need to deter dogs from making GBS threads on my property. I live in a neighborhood with lazy rear end dog owners who let their dogs poo poo on the sidewalk in front of my house and on my lawn. Yesterday I had a contractor come look at my roof and let them come in with their shoes on, and they stepped on poo poo before they came in. I didn't realize until they left Crushed red pepper flakes in water. Boil until the water is orangey-brown. Strain. Dilute 6:1 with water. Spray. Keeps away cats, dogs, ferrets, chinchillas, rabbits, gophers, moles, and I think deer. Doesn't stop rats, mice, or coyotes. May stop pigeons and crows.
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Feb 9, 2013 22:38
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So, we have these holes in our garage floor:  Spark plug included for scale. How should I go about filling in this hole? I've never done anything like this before. Should i use a concrete mixture? Do I need to clean out the hole before working on it? Is it recommended to use a pressure washer on my entire garage floor to wash off the salt and grime stains before doing any work?
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Feb 9, 2013 23:26
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I'm sharing my fix it knowledge with friends! Thanks goons!
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Feb 10, 2013 00:08
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melon cat posted:So, we have these holes in our garage floor: I answered one like this earlier in the thread: quote:Cold chisel with a 3 lb hammer all the loose stuff, use self leveling grout to fill in. Color with acrylic stain. If you can't find self-leveling grout, use sanded grout
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Feb 10, 2013 03:38
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Crushed red pepper flakes in water. Boil until the water is orangey-brown. Strain. Dilute 6:1 with water. Spray. Keeps away cats, dogs, ferrets, chinchillas, rabbits, gophers, moles, and I think deer. Doesn't stop rats, mice, or coyotes. May stop pigeons and crows. Bummer, I need to something keep tree rats squirrels out of my garden and apple trees.
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Feb 10, 2013 04:14
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Hed posted:I answered one like this earlier in the thread:  A rookie question- is self-leveling grout the same thing as self-leveling cement? And can I use the same stuff for filling in cracks (there are a few cracks in addition to the holes in the garage). melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 06:23
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melon cat posted:Ah, I believe you answered the question when I asked it a long time ago. I just couldn't find the damned post. Thanks! Click the little ? next to the post timestamp sometime...
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Feb 10, 2013 10:00
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melon cat posted:Ah, I believe you answered the question when I asked it a long time ago. I just couldn't find the damned post. Thanks! Oh sure if you see something called "self-leveling cement" for sale it is likely technically grout--that is, cement plus some aggregate/binder like sand for filler and strength. That's the right thing. Sure, use it to fill any of the cosmetic crevices in your concrete.
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Feb 10, 2013 21:42
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pseudonordic posted:I'm sharing my fix it knowledge with friends! Thanks goons! To prevent injury you should always secure down any material you are drilling/sanding/cutting/other things that involve spinning or sharp bits. 
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Feb 10, 2013 23:27
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