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Francis Baconator
Jul 11, 2008

Thanks for the avatar man!
It's got the minilites on it and looks real sharp, aside from that bit of surface rust on the exterior. Headliner's toast, but otherwise the interior is pretty sweet. A nice melange of burgundy, wood and baby puke yellow. I love it, but my rational side is telling me to get hosed.

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Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

Francis Baconator posted:

It's got the minilites on it and looks real sharp, aside from that bit of surface rust on the exterior. Headliner's toast, but otherwise the interior is pretty sweet. A nice melange of burgundy, wood and baby puke yellow. I love it, but my rational side is telling me to get hosed.

It can't cost THAT much to store it for a couple months until July, then just trailer it home yourself! Really, $2k is a steal if the rust is only on the surface.

Hell, you pay shipping, I have a metric ton of silver (grey) headliner left over from my aborted 9000T project just sitting in the closet. That'd be one bizarre looking car.

E: Took the 900 out today since driving the LPT feels like driving a Caddy now. It was fine until I parked it at home, hours later. It decided to let the hatch chomp on my head when unloading groceries. Naughty, naughty car.

Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jan 22, 2013

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     

West SAAB Story posted:

If you don't need it, how much for the center console speaker, provided it is a "pristigue" (Harmon/Kardon)?

It was just the base system and the center speaker was cracked anyway. So double negative on that one. I did happen to get some door handles, various screw covers for extras and a seat belt though. What I didn't get was the SID, it looked like it was pre-raped off the vehicle. The harness was cut, but the factory stereo was still there. :confused:

pjhalifax
May 29, 2004

love boat captain
Apologies if this was posted earlier...I don't remember seeing it: SAAB Secure Program announced for 2010 and 2011 model years.

I'm torn. I mean, I'm glad there's even a hint of an infrastructure existing right now. But I'm 120 miles from the nearest official service center so that's not exactly convenient. I did get a good deal on my 2010 so I guess I'd take a look at their warranty offerings. I'm always very wary of stuff like that. Is there any way this actually works out well?

Sure would be nice if they lumped me in with the 2009 and earlier crowd, though (with GM administering warranty service).

Venetir
May 19, 2009
I'm working with a 1989 C900 with some fun issues! We just swapped the old, cracked belts, reconnected the A/C compressor (missing two bolts!), and replaced a ton of leaking radiator hose. It's time for a tune-up, oil change, and I'm sure I need to replace the vacuum lines but haven't got to it yet; school just started and time is low at the moment. I'm having some issues I'm hoping you guys might be able to help with.

Ol' Saab's idle is surging, the acceleration isn't always smooth (slight dips in acceleration, especially noticeable at lower gears), and, best of all, the check engine light sometimes comes on when it's idling but goes away as soon as I start to drive. I'm thinking possibly ICV issues or vacuum leaks for the first, a number of issues for the second that may or may not be fixed by a tune-up, and am completely stumped on the last. Does anyone have any experience with this any or all of these?

Francis Baconator
Jul 11, 2008

Thanks for the avatar man!
Clean your idle control valve and make sure all your vacuum hoses are intact or replaced. Then, get a multimeter and check the tolerances on your throttle position sensor. If it's out of spec, replace it ($50-60). For bonus points, get some actual MAF cleaner and clean your MAF. For extra super brownie points, take a can of electrical contact cleaner and clean any electrical connections to components that read and control your idle. Last step? Enjoy your smooth running 900 (or start replacing ignition components).

Sabmo
May 7, 2009

Venetir posted:

I'm working with a 1989 C900 with some fun issues! We just swapped the old, cracked belts, reconnected the A/C compressor (missing two bolts!), and replaced a ton of leaking radiator hose. It's time for a tune-up, oil change, and I'm sure I need to replace the vacuum lines but haven't got to it yet; school just started and time is low at the moment. I'm having some issues I'm hoping you guys might be able to help with.

Ol' Saab's idle is surging, the acceleration isn't always smooth (slight dips in acceleration, especially noticeable at lower gears), and, best of all, the check engine light sometimes comes on when it's idling but goes away as soon as I start to drive. I'm thinking possibly ICV issues or vacuum leaks for the first, a number of issues for the second that may or may not be fixed by a tune-up, and am completely stumped on the last. Does anyone have any experience with this any or all of these?

My '94 9000 has recently started doing this exact same thing. Erratic idle at times, followed by hesitation under acceleration and the occasional check engine light. The odd thing is that 95% of the time it runs as smooth as anything. I've done some research and I've come to the exact same conclusions as you - ICV or vacuum hoses. To be honest I'm leaning towards the latter.. considering the age of our cars the hoses have probably badly disintegrated and could do with replacement anyway. This'll be my first move. But as Francis mentioned, it could also be the TPS or a bad MAF.



So by the time I got in touch with the guy that was selling the complete set of 9000 Aero seats for $42, he had thrown out the rear bench because he was getting sick of looking at it and didn't think anyone wanted it.

:negative:

Thankfully though, he had the wisdom to keep ahold of the front seats so not all was lost. I paid $8 for the pair. Yup, $8. Some of the seat adjustment switches and the seatbelt release buttons are broken, but with a good clean and condition the seats themselves should come up pretty nice. I now just need to either make them into lounge chairs / bar stools or buy another 9000 to put them in.

Sabmo fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jan 29, 2013

Venetir
May 19, 2009

Sabmo posted:

My '94 9000 has recently started doing this exact same thing. Erratic idle at times, followed by hesitation under acceleration and the occasional check engine light. The odd thing is that 95% of the time it runs as smooth as anything. I've done some research and I've come to the exact same conclusions as you - ICV or vacuum hoses. To be honest I'm leaning towards the latter.. considering the age of our cars the hoses have probably badly disintegrated and could do with replacement anyway. This'll be my first move. But as Francis mentioned, it could also be the TPS or a bad MAF.

It was vacuum hoses! We had a local Saab repair shop replace my belts and they disconnected a couple of vacuum hoses (and loosened a radiator hose) and never reconnected them. Finding my cooling system squirting coolant certainly was a fun surprise. For shits and giggles I checked out the MAF sensor, ICV, and a whole ton of other ignition/fuel related junk and found two of the spark plugs with nearly twice the recommended gap size. Now that the hoses are reconnected and the spark plugs replaced and properly gapped, it runs a lot smoother. Acceleration is way up although I think the turbocharger is having issues. It seems to be dumping boost if you gun it. New project! Thanks for all the help, everyone. I'm brand new to Saabs but I love the car so far!

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
The horn in the NG900 is too weak.

Had some idiot in a BMW who thinks they were in a shopping cart decide to cut me off - and, had I not promised the car to someone already, I'd have let him hit me for the insurance money.

Then, had a van who wasn't paying attention merge over from the far right lane to the far left without even looking and almost took me out.

Both times I laid on the horn, but I could barely hear it. Probably because of the rather louder expletives coming out of my mouth at the time.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.
Just repaired the SID2 in my co-workers NG900 convertible.

Using the T-tip on a soldering iron, it went from having about 5 working segments to working perfectly.

Attempted repair on the ACC unit, but nothing I could do could get that cable to bond again - The design of those is really stupid, it would have cost them about $1 more per unit to fit a latching socket on the PCB instead of just bonding the bare ribbon with no other support.

The board even has holes and a silkscreen outlining some sort of bracket over that cable, but they didn't fit it.

If I wasn't moving interstate in two weeks, I'd be fitting one of these for him, but I just don't have the time now.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

metaxus posted:

Using the T-tip on a soldering iron, it went from having about 5 working segments to working perfectly.

You know, if you want to take it apart again, I fixed 98% of the pixels bizarre icons in my NG900 ACC by cutting a piece of foam rubber and smashing everything together (gently). It works great, and so does the SID. The SID has an odd issue where the clock won't come on until I flash the brights, but I know that is in the SID unit itself on a car that won't be my problem anymore in a few weeks, so.. :effort:

Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Feb 5, 2013

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Saab,2.3L,very good gas saver,full loaded,power windows,power seats,ventilation/heated seats,good tires,moon roof.
It has 131xxx miles on,no lights on.It has a leak at the water pump,and it has to be replaced,but besides that everything it's working perfect.
Cd,radio,tape,very well maintained.
Phone number 510-542-7662.


$1500.

Urge to lose more money.. raising.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Sabmo
May 7, 2009

West SAAB Story posted:


Urge to lose more money.. raising.


Looks tidy. You're not worried about sludge?

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

Sabmo posted:

Looks tidy. You're not worried about sludge?

It's really not that difficult to (drain the oil and) stick a dental mirror (or scope) up the drain hole to check the pickup.. and if the oil is really thick and black even if the pickup looks OK, I tend to err on the side of 'pass'. Of course, a history of the car (and who performed maintenance) helps quite a bit.

mwells_cubed
Aug 7, 2003

WOW
Went ahead and bought this 1995 Saab 900 for $1400. I have a lot to learn, regarding driving a manual.

Issues it has:
-Washer fluid pump doesn't work, was told this may not actually be broken
-Interior lights only work when the car first starts, they turn off immediately after. The guy said the dimmer switch is kinda fucky, but said if you mess with it, it'll work.
-Needs one new headlight bulb :downs:

So did I do okay? Transmission is basically new, though I'm sure I murdered it a tiny bit during my drive home.

Sviatoslav
Feb 9, 2010

mwells_cubed posted:

So did I do okay?

If you were in North East Ohio I'd tell you to swing by the shop I work at and I'd hook you up with a post-pre-purchase inspection for shits and giggles on my lunch break to see how okay you did. We primarily work on Saabs and Volvos. It can't be as bad as the 230k mile V6 9-5 I saw yesterday, so at least you have that going for you :downs:

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

mwells_cubed posted:

-Interior lights only work when the car first starts, they turn off immediately after. The guy said the dimmer switch is kinda fucky, but said if you mess with it, it'll work.

This is EXTREMELY easy to fix. Pull the dimmer switch and resolder the tines with a low power iron.

Check to make sure your headlamp assemblies aren't disconnected. Check your adjustments on them. They were on my $1500 '96. One would flop left and right, the other would flop up and down. Driving with no lights internally and lazy-eye headlights (for all 10 miles) was anything but amusing. I ended up fixing them by getting the plastic warm and forcing the parts together. Didn't cost anything except blood.

Scroll back to here if you want to read my 'progress' with my cheap 900. It's given much of AI a laugh, from what I've been told.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
How many Saabs are you up to now WSS?

But for what its worth, a 9-3 is on my list of "cars that I need to own before I die".

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

BrokenKnucklez posted:

How many Saabs are you up to now WSS?

But for what its worth, a 9-3 is on my list of "cars that I need to own before I die".

Total, or currently own? Eight, and five, respectively.

Viggen fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Feb 8, 2013

Faerunner
Dec 31, 2007
My fiance is looking at Saabs again. What years/ranges are relatively safe from not having parts issues the next time we inevitably have someone hit our car or otherwise have things break dramatically?

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Everything Pre-2011.
Pre-2006 93 - Front and rear bumpers are still difficult to source.
Post 1993 900s (1994 convertibles).
Avoid the 2003 93SS. Lucas-grade electrical gremlins dwell within. The 93SS suspension is also weaker than the OG93.

2000-2002 is basically the sweet spot for both OG93 and OG95. Yes, those are the sludge years. If you find one with good records and someone willing to let you have it inspected pre-purchase, it's well worth it. The cars are getting cheaper. However, the parts are getting more expensive.

Faerunner
Dec 31, 2007

West SAAB Story posted:

Everything Pre-2011.
Pre-2006 93 - Front and rear bumpers are still difficult to source.
Post 1993 900s (1994 convertibles).
Avoid the 2003 93SS. Lucas-grade electrical gremlins dwell within. The 93SS suspension is also weaker than the OG93.

2000-2002 is basically the sweet spot for both OG93 and OG95. Yes, those are the sludge years. If you find one with good records and someone willing to let you have it inspected pre-purchase, it's well worth it. The cars are getting cheaper. However, the parts are getting more expensive.

Thanks WSS :) Our last Saab was a 2000 9-3SE (convertible, to boot) so we're relatively acquainted with the quirks. A front bumper was what helped the insurance company write it off versus fix it when it got hit in a parking lot.


Aside from being the wrong transmission, what do you think of this at a glance? http://www.autolandpa.com/2003-Saab-95SportWagon/Used-Wagon/Pittsburgh-PA/675/2583522/Craigslist/6146992/Details.aspx

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

Low miles, original 2003 LPT wheels, and they look like they're in good condition.. Silver. Four speed, but those are usually bulletproof. It's post-2001, so its 185bhp vs 170bhp. Get someone to run an IRIS report on it, but that's a nice car. If it has a clear IRIS, PCV #6 update, and records, I'd probably offer $4k and settle for $4.2k. Make sure to check if original struts, blower motor, etc.. that'll help you negotiate them down. The rear left side of the hatch doesn't quite line up. It looks like it may have had a minor accident in its' past.

E: SID also looks mostly dead.

Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Feb 8, 2013

Jedi Knight Luigi
Jul 13, 2009
So I just bought this used 9-2x (aka Saabaru) and the logo looks like one of those pigs from Angry Birds:



What's up with that? It's on the front and the back.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Its a stupid crooked aftermarket sticker. You can peel it off, and put a new sticker on it, or replace the whole emblem for about $20.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Someone's just trying to be cute with the Subaru link.



I believe said cheeky porcine character may be found acting as mascot for fine JDM publication Young Magazine. Often seen on Subarus because everyone knows pigs live in STIs.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Also known as "Rally Pig".

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Once every three months, the NG900 is doing the infamous 'Low Coolant' dance. A whole mm lower than the 'cold fill line' :supaburn: The '96 doesn't have a stupid float valve like the '95 did, so I can't easily just bypass it - nor would I really want to since this was a project for someone else. I don't think I am going to bother to track down the leak, since I'm pretty sure removing the reservoir in this weather would cause it to crack. Here ya go, little more distilled water. You're now a 50.25/49.75 ratio. :effort:

E: tried to close a sub tag with a b tag. I M SO SMRT.

Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Feb 11, 2013

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
$1100 now for the 9-3 hatch with the destroyed B205.



Still tempting.

Viggen fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Feb 13, 2013

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009
So perhaps you might remember a few months ago I asked some questions here about Saabs, and how I was impressed having driven a couple. Well, I found one a week or so ago that was too good to pass up, and I am now the proud owner of a 2007 9-3 sedan. It's black with a dark grey interior and very nearly every option (only missing a few like passenger's power seat, rain-sensing wipers, and auto-up windows, the last of which is the only feature I could miss). I'm still impressed. The Swedes think of everything, apparently, because there is a little valve in the glove box that you can open to admit the air conditioning into the glove box, in case you wanted to, as the manual suggests, "transport chocolate in hot weather". I'll post some pictures of it once I get a chance to get it cleaned, since this being winter in New England, it got dirty precisely seven minutes after it was off the lot.

I would like to know if there is anything particular about the care and feeding of it that I should know about. I've already learned that it needs only synthetic oil and to use only a few very specific brands of 0-W40 or 5-W30, with Mobil1 0-W40 being the preferred choice, and of course that, with it having a turbocharger, great care should be taken to keep the fluids changed regularly and otherwise look after it more closely than the American V8s that I'm more used to, but I'm certain that there is more to know and would like to know whatever I can learn. It's got the 6-speed manual transmission, and, I have learned, therefore the high-pressure engine, which the manual tells me will drink 87 Octane but really prefers 90. Overall I'm quite pleased with it, quirky Swedish car traits and all.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW

Red_October_7000 posted:

I would like to know if there is anything particular about the care and feeding of it that I should know about.

Keep up to date on all services, and it'll never let you down. If you start slipping or 'oh thats good enough', it will eventually bite you in the rear end and cost a bit to fix. What motor did you end up with? The 2.8T LP9 (GM Ecotec) is shoehorned into the beast, and it's a bit of an odd one, but it is also pretty drat fun. It's a shame you don't have an H Engine; I really love my I4s.

Be aware that your front bumper cover is still a bit difficult to source, so protect it as well as possible. I put a 3M clearbra on my car in 2008, and have never regretted it. It's saved the paint a few times already.

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

West SAAB Story posted:

Keep up to date on all services, and it'll never let you down. If you start slipping or 'oh thats good enough', it will eventually bite you in the rear end and cost a bit to fix. What motor did you end up with? The 2.8T LP9 (GM Ecotec) is shoehorned into the beast, and it's a bit of an odd one, but it is also pretty drat fun. It's a shame you don't have an H Engine; I really love my I4s.

Be aware that your front bumper cover is still a bit difficult to source, so protect it as well as possible. I put a 3M clearbra on my car in 2008, and have never regretted it. It's saved the paint a few times already.

It's definitely got a four-cylinder motor, two litres; not the 2.8 six. Part of the reason I chose it is because it's supposed to be able to hit 30 MPG on the highway and my job's got me commuting 60 miles a day which was costing me $100 a week in my Suburban.

It didn't come with an ash tray, and since both of the cup holders are in awkward places to put one, I'd like to add the factory one in. How difficult is that part of the dash to work on, if anyone knows? The ash trays themselves don't seem to cost too much on e-bay.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Doesn't look all that difficult.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Red_October_7000
Jun 22, 2009

West SAAB Story posted:

Doesn't look all that difficult.



Thanks for this!

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
Is there a decent luggage rack for the 93 wagon? Everything I've seen is for bikes, I want to stick a bunch of poo poo on top if I need to since I have laughable cargo space when my 13 month old twins are in the back seats. This especially shows when I need to drive from the L.A. area to Sacramento for a week. Everybody assumes I drive a bloated SUV or souless minivan and people give us gifts for the kids that I cannot take home.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
Ugh. Right rear window decided to not want to roll up in the 9-3 wagon. I've used the rear windows a handful of times in the year that I've had it. Today I rolled it down partially, now it doesn't work. The motor works, but I can hear crunching and other crap like something just broke. Is this a common thing? Should I expect a particular part broken when I pop open the door panel? I won't be able to get to it for a while.

Mario
Oct 29, 2006
It's-a-me!
It's pretty common. The motor drives a cable on a pulley system to slide a piece up and down a track, which raises and lowers the window. The problem is that there is a plastic piece in the slider which breaks and suddenly renders the window inoperable. This happens often enough that when I pulled a regulator at the junkyard to fix mine, 2/3 of the cars there were broken with the same problem.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Get two rollers (replace both even if one looks fine), and some lube for the track. The (initally) most difficult part will be to pull off the skin, but eventually you'll do it in under ten minutes. I find it easiest to lube the track and wheels, manually align the window, then stick it back through with a pair of lock jaws (covered in cardboard). Two clicks. If you only get one click, you're not done. You need TWO clicks.

They're generally part no. 4493433. Some people have replaced them with Volvo squares, and others claim the cheap aftermarket ones suck. Since I only have to do about, uh.. the whole car once every four to ten years, I really haven't bothered to try different things than the ~$2/ea AFT rollers.

Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
Found myself a SAAB 006 today. I am guessing that those are pretty rare. :clint:

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Francis Baconator
Jul 11, 2008

Thanks for the avatar man!

West SAAB Story posted:

Found myself a SAAB 006 today. I am guessing that those are pretty rare. :clint:


Nice color and custom fender damage! :haw:

I'm still on the fence about that '77 SAAB 99. Guy lowered the price from $2,500 to $2,000 for me to $1,550 for me. But I'd still have to find a buddy's truck to tow it back with because the tires are poo poo. Same issues I mentioned some posts still stand, but it'd be a cool ride. He clarified because of the high compression mods he made, it requires premium fuel with octane boosters, which is a bit of a downer. Hm...

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