|
Dishman posted:For what it's worth, Ryobi tablesaws like that are flimsy and not worth it unless it's CHEAP and you're willing to do something about stability. We have one at my work and although we're not a carpentry shop, nobody's used it in over 5 years. Scale this advice to your level of precision/quality blah blah but in my experience these are an emergency job site wreck it and dump it investment. Good point, didn't take that into consideration. Might try to beat them down in price so at least I have a table saw and then just keep looking for a nicer one.
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 23:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 20:16 |
|
|
bimmian posted:Good point, didn't take that into consideration. Might try to beat them down in price so at least I have a table saw and then just keep looking for a nicer one. If you get it cheap enough you could always resell it later and it would cost you very little. This is actually a good time for used saw shopping because a lot 10 year old contractors are showing up for sale. If you can find one with a 1.5HP belt drive motor and a good fence you'd be set for awhile.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 00:32
|
|
|
doubling the belt-drive comment. the direct-drive tablesaws are called "screamers" for a reason! belt-driven tablesaws use induction motors which give off a bit of a hum. for $150 you can get a really good older table saw - provided you don't need to fold it up and put it away... I don't see a compelling reason to go towards ryobi if you're shopping on the used market.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 00:24
|
|
|
Raised the motor mount and got the lathe running off the 1/4HP. Looks a little funny but works, hope that Stanley brass hinge is up to the task. Little bit of vibration but not too bad. The v-belt was slipping bad so I flipped it over and it runs much better but the belt is breaking down so fast you can practically see it. Time to order a flat leather belt. Also the motor is running hot and I'm afraid it won't last long. I hosed it out with electronics cleaner and it was filthy, not sure if disassembling and cleaning would help. Here the motor is running at it's lowest speed, estimated ~650 rpms. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gujE4bvPfZs Still need to wire the other speeds and turn a cone pulley for the motor.  EDIT: scrap this idea, it doesn't work. The beginning vibration is minimal but it sets off an oscillation that makes it unworkable. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Feb 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 04:20
|
|
|
wormil posted:EDIT: scrap this idea, it doesn't work. The beginning vibration is minimal but it sets off an oscillation that makes it unworkable. Maybe use some threaded rod as a "tensioner" to assist the gravity setup? Make sure the pulleys are aligned, I know a guy that works in serious industry type stuff and they have fancy laser shaft and pulley alignment tools because they will vibrate/destroy bearings and stuff if it's off a bit. Best of luck
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 16:15
|
|
|
apatite posted:Maybe use some threaded rod as a "tensioner" to assist the gravity setup? Make sure the pulleys are aligned, I know a guy that works in serious industry type stuff and they have fancy laser shaft and pulley alignment tools because they will vibrate/destroy bearings and stuff if it's off a bit. I'm just going to mount it to my bench and turn a cone pulley the same ratio as the originals so I don't have to adjust the motor tension. The miter saw is there now but it should fit on the stand I built. The downside is that my bench will fill up with shavings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 19:35
|
|
|
wormil posted:I'm just going to mount it to my bench and turn a cone pulley the same ratio as the originals so I don't have to adjust the motor tension. The miter saw is there now but it should fit on the stand I built. The downside is that my bench will fill up with shavings. Mine is setup like yours but the belt goes down straight to a shelf I built on the bottom of the bench and the motor is on a hinge down low....  The angle is exaggerated a bit, but it's easy to adjust tension with the pulleys. You could also put the motor on a lockable slide to keep in alignment laterally. Have you tried taking off the wheels? They will promote oscillation if I recall correctly?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 20:13
|
|
|
Guitarchitect posted:doubling the belt-drive comment. the direct-drive tablesaws are called "screamers" for a reason! belt-driven tablesaws use induction motors which give off a bit of a hum. for $150 you can get a really good older table saw - provided you don't need to fold it up and put it away... I don't see a compelling reason to go towards ryobi if you're shopping on the used market. Portability isn't a big deal for me, but space is rather limited so being able to move it around my basement without too much hassle would be handy. That being said, making a base for it on casters is an option. I'd certainly prefer a larger, better quality saw. I'll keep my eye out for a used contractors saw.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
MarshallX posted:Mine is setup like yours but the belt goes down straight to a shelf I built on the bottom of the bench and the motor is on a hinge down low.... I did some experiments, as the belt approaches 90 degrees to the side (becomes shorter), the oscillation are shorter and faster. As the belt approaches 180 degrees (gets longer) the oscillations become slower and larger. (obvious in retrospect) Placing the motor directly above or below (like yours) is the optimum solution. My lathe was designed for two types of power, a treadle below or a countershaft above. Placing a motor below is easier but would require outrigger idler pulleys to keep the belt from rubbing the lathe frame, not really difficult but extra work. Placing the motor above is more complicated. I'm going to try placing the motor 90 degrees to the side but mounted to a bench which will hopefully minimize vibration. I'll try it because it doesn't require any fabrication, I can just use the motor mount I have. If it doesn't work, then I'll have to go either above or below. The joys of vintage machinery. Update: Running much smoother but still some vibration. A new belt should help considerably.    In the last pic you can see the crooked belt. http://youtu.be/UIHa1ciFx9Y wormil fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Feb 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2013 21:21
|
|
|
While the issue is probably more related to crookedness, this page on how crowned pulleys keep flat belts straight might be of interest to you. His pulleys have much more crown than what I saw in the pictures above and his appear similar to what I've seen on snowmobile motors and such.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2013 17:37
|
|
|
The previous owner cut a groove in the pulleys, I guess to run v-belts or round belts, but it doesn't track worth a drat. I'm going to try filling them with metal fortified epoxy putty and then sand them back smooth with a slight crown. More than once I've been tempted to just give in and replace them with v pulleys as it would make using it much simpler I just hate to ruin the original look. In other news... my attempts at drying maple in the round were a bust. Apparently I should have left the bark on or sealed the outside. The pieces I split are doing fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2013 18:59
|
|
|
I don't think I have what it takes to hang with these guys (competitive planing video): http://youtu.be/v3Ad6tBdLbM
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2013 22:50
|
|
|
So I was at an antique mall and I found a Disston dovetail saw from the turn of the 20th century. The blade was in pretty good shape, but the handle was an abomination. Definitely not the original and someone had also changed the medallion to a Warranted Superior one and for some reason painted it red. I cleaned up the saw blade and sharpened it. Then I made a new handle for it out of walnut. Apart from drilling the holes, I made the whole thing with a coping saw, rasp, and sandpaper. Was really hard work, but I'm very pleased with the result. I just tossed out the medallion and in its place I used a spare brass nut from another old Disston saw I had (had no room for the medallion on the new handle). I thought I would post the before and after pictures here. Before:  After: 
pageerror404 fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Feb 8, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2013 03:37
|
|
|
Wow. That is a great looking saw.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2013 04:35
|
|
|
Has anyone ever had an issue with wood going black under wax? I split and waxed some green timber and have just noticed they are starting to go black from the bark inwards underneath the wax.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2013 07:35
|
|
|
It could be dry rot or mold (wet wood in a sealed container of wax)
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2013 16:48
|
|
|
pageerror404 posted:Before: What an amazing transformation. Really nice job.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2013 17:00
|
|
|
Guitarchat or Woodworking? I recently found my old Bass guitar on Craigslist and bought it back. While I still loved the sound and feel of it, I hated the old paint job. So in a bit of a fling I stripped it down and hoped I'd be able to get it refinished: Ugly.  Ugly and beat up.  Ugly and taken apart.  Stripped down and getting better.  Stained, sealed and even better still.  Top Coat applied.  Back together and looking gorgeous.  I'm so much happier with it now. I'm no longer ashamed to take it out for a practice or gig.
|
|
#
?
Feb 9, 2013 18:47
|
|
|
Skinny Bins posted:Guitarchat or Woodworking? That's way better. Only the ugliest and plainest of woods deserve to be covered in paint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 07:35
|
|
|
New motor. http://youtu.be/pYCnbUgmp3A A live center, drill chuck, and center drills arrived from Little Machine Shop. Ordered on the 7th, arrived on the 9th; shipping was only $5.80. Those guys are quick and inexpensive.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 08:12
|
|
|
Skinny Bins posted:Guitarchat or Woodworking? Looks great. So much better. Is the wood alder? And what did you use for stain?
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 08:30
|
|
|
mds2 posted:Looks great. So much better. Yes it's alder. Underneath the paint was a thin poplar veneer that was meant to be a smoother base for the paint. I'm assuming they use uglier pieces for their paint -grade stuff, but the grain underneath isn't half bad. As far as the particular stain, it's a custom water-based tint that my finisher mixed up for me. E:sp
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 09:29
|
|
|
My block of cedar looks like something now. Just need to do a whole bunch of sanding and finish it in Tung oil. I shaped the whole thing using a bench plane,a flat/round wood rasp and a flat spokeshave.  [Mod Edit: MY TABLES] Somebody fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 21:11
|
|
|
Here is another project I finished up today. Its a Stanley #4 Smoothing Plane Type 9. Its about 110 years old. I would call these restorations, but any true antique restorer would be furious at me for removing the patina. Its just my preference, I want my tools to be functional and also look good. Before:  After: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 03:51
|
|
|
pageerror404 posted:Here is another project I finished up today. Its a Stanley #4 Smoothing Plane Type 9. Its about 110 years old. I would call these restorations, but any true antique restorer would be furious at me for removing the patina. Its just my preference, I want my tools to be functional and also look good. Where do you find these old hand planes? Was this a hand-me-down or do you just troll eBay/craigslist? Regardless, that's a beautiful restore!
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 05:08
|
|
|
johnnyonetime posted:Where do you find these old hand planes? Was this a hand-me-down or do you just troll eBay/craigslist? You never find them on craigslist. They are on ebay but I don't buy them there. They are really expensive and you can't truly inspect them. I usually find my tools in antique malls. Some are cheap, others are expensive. On my days off I occasionally stroll around antique malls with my fiance. I look for tools while she looks for vintage costume jewelry, its relaxing and fun. Half the time I don't find anything, other times I get good deals. That one above cost only $9, but I had to repair the broken tote. That's why it was so cheap. But now I have a high quality perfectly usable #4 smoother, and the satisfaction that I gave a 110 year old tool a new life. The other day I restored a Stanley 5 1/4 plane from 1947. That one was super easy. It was just really dirty and had very light (and recent) rust, but to the untrained eye it looked like junk. Now it literally looks brand-spanking-new, even better that #4 above. I could post a picture if anyone wants to see it, but I forgot to take a photo before I restored it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 06:28
|
|
|
I always scour flea markets for them. I bought a really nice Stanley #4 for $9. I did a little plane rehab yesterday too. About a year ago my brother bought a house and there was an old plane in a drawer in the garage. He gave it to me and I hung it on a hook in my garage and forgot about it. Now I have a fully functional Stanley #78 deluxe rabbeting plane.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 15:22
|
|
|
Hey guys what's-- 
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 16:10
|
|
|
How did you guys learn to restore planes and saws? I'm not really asking for a detailed process, but is there an online source you followed? Or just something you picked up along the way?
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 16:25
|
|
|
Huxley posted:How did you guys learn to restore planes and saws? I'm not really asking for a detailed process, but is there an online source you followed? Or just something you picked up along the way? Its not as hard as it looks. Normally just rust removal and wood refinishing. If something stumps me I just Google it. Lots of guides because many people restore them. You can't buy a new plane that's as good as an antique Stanley for less than $230... so lots of people use them. Saws are the same story. Most people barely use them anymore except for a very occasional cut that their power tools can't reach. So new saws are designed to be used until dull and then thrown away. They have induction hardened teeth and cannot be resharpened. Antique saws had to be used all day every day and are much higher quality. Also they are so simple that they can almost always be restored, unless they are severely rust damaged. Google the following sites, they are good resources: Disstonian institute (all about disston saws) Hyperkitten (all about Stanley planes) Old tool heaven (all about millers falls planes, which are comparable to antique Stanley's but less known and almost always cheaper) Sawmill creek forums (best woodworking forums I have ever seen)
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 18:11
|
|
|
So I bought a set of tools a while ago that came with old steel workbench, as well as a good motor. And since I haven't had anywhere to run my belt driven machinery, I decided it was to build such a place. I had the workbench powdercoated, and didn't take before and after pics cause I'm cool like that.  Anyways I made a new top for it, and a place to mount the motor and wired it up with some proper wire and a switch. (Unlike the previous owner who used an old extension cord.)  And flipped everything over so I have a flat worktop if I need it and a motor for everything else:  So now I've got a great place to run things like my hilariously tiny table saw:  (Which is slightly rusted in place and needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. Expect to see it soon in the restoration thread!) However, bandsaw seems to run just fine!   A+++ Cutting experience, would cut again.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2013 23:40
|
|
|
Sanding seems like it should be the easiest thing about using a lathe but I'm having trouble. It seems no matter how much I sand, a few grooves show up. The grooves aren't there before I sand and they are a little larger/deeper than the sandpaper grit. I progress from 80 grit to 100/150/220/320. One more problem, sanding inside curves I get what looks like tearout and there is no sanding it out, it gets smaller but never goes away. Could it be... too much pressure? lovely wood? (it's definitely the worst in pine) not changing paper enough? too fast or slow? chatter?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 08:42
|
|
|
wormil posted:Sanding seems like it should be the easiest thing about using a lathe but I'm having trouble. It seems no matter how much I sand, a few grooves show up. The grooves aren't there before I sand and they are a little larger/deeper than the sandpaper grit. I progress from 80 grit to 100/150/220/320.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 15:40
|
|
|
Skip the more aggressive grits like 100 and below, and just take your time. I usually hit it with the 120 until I'm happy, then use some steel wool to finish it off. If I'm feeling nuts I'll use some 220 or whatever high grit I have laying around. Some of those groves just appear for apparently no reason, and trying to sand them out results in new ones. I find that a good oiling or finish (few coats) usually hides them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 16:37
|
|
|
Also, with a lathe, speed is fine (great, even!) but definitely mind the pressure. You're sanding a LOT more than you realize, even at the slowest speed. I mean, if you've got that thing on a middling speed of a couple thousand rpm, you're literally running the paper over it a couple thousand times in just a minute. And with anything coarser than, say, 120, it's reeeaaally easy to put deep marks in that are a bitch to get out again: if there's an errant grain sticking up above the others and you're pressing it in and not moving the paper much, that grain will put a nice line in your piece before you know it. So light pressure and constant lateral movement. If you find you have marks from something, the only solution really is to go back to the grit that caused the mark, do it again with a lighter touch, and then work your way back up.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 16:44
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:if there's an errant grain sticking up above the others and you're pressing it in and not moving the paper much, that grain will put a nice line in your piece before you know it. Forgot about this! The sandpaper that I use for finish sanding has been sanded itself, by a slightly higher grit. So If I'm doing finishing with 120 grit, I will lay it flat, and hit it with a sanding block loaded with some 150 grit. It sounds silly, bit I find I have fewer issues with "proud grains of grit" sticking out more than they should.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 16:52
|
|
|
I've honestly never heard of sanding sanding paper. I'll have to give it a try.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 16:56
|
|
|
Sanding sandpaper? Is that like sending the new guy to pick up a cabinet makers triangle?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 17:03
|
|
|
Blistex posted:SSome of those groves just appear for apparently no reason, and trying to sand them out results in new ones. I find that a good oiling or finish (few coats) usually hides them. That's exactly what happens. I'll try starting with 100 or 120. Kirov, I'm using carbide tools. Interesting turning video of an Amish or Mennonite man making a top. The lathe is a beast, especially considering the relatively small swing. The tool blades appear to be inserts and are quite thick. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgpqO7zStvc&feature=share&list=PLD7DD16D0E4AB3EAF wormil fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Feb 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 20:16 |
|
|
That thing is a monster.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:29
|
|