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Timmy Cruise posted:Would that apply to the turbo engines too, though? My son the Subaru tech tells me that they see head gaskets on WRX's and STI's too. I think the failure rate is lower, but I have no evidence of any kind to back that up.
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Feb 9, 2013 19:29
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Yeah it does still happen, but more often from abusing/overheating the car and not from "oops, sorry, we put lovely gaskets in at the factory."
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Feb 9, 2013 19:50
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Yeah, HG fail on all cars sometimes. Go leak it down and then buy buy buy!
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Feb 9, 2013 23:08
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nm posted:Yeah, HG fail on all cars sometimes. Faerunner posted:
So far I have, before we make the drive to Ohio, was the maintenance done on schedule at 105k, how is the clutch, have the head gaskets been serviced or has a mechanic made note of any issues (Since their mechanic told them it's going to need a radiator in the foreseeable future), but I don't know what else to ask someone who doesn't seem mechanically inclined. I'm guessing that unless there's something terribly wrong with it otherwise that $6400 is a great price... with $10k being the next cheapest I've seen, and it wouldn't exactly be a bad buy even with minor problems that'll need taken care of down the road? Edit: Also does anyone know of a good mechanic to take it to in/near Akron, Ohio? Also if you can't tell I'm not really mechanically inclined either.
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Feb 9, 2013 23:21
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daslog posted:If it's built between 1999 and 2008, then yes. 1997 and 2008 
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Feb 9, 2013 23:35
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Don't know anyone in Akron, but north of Columbus there's a guy who might be able to help or give you a recommendation. williaty at artifexgarage.com.
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Feb 9, 2013 23:41
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I gotta say, hard to beat FunctionAuto for pricing. Tune up on my wagon (plugs and wires): - Dealer is $50plugs/$100wires + tax - Local parts store was about $120 + tax - Jamal? Under $70 shipped for NGK coppers and a set of wires.
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Feb 10, 2013 01:05
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jamal posted:Don't know anyone in Akron, but north of Columbus there's a guy who might be able to help or give you a recommendation. williaty at artifexgarage.com. Yeah Ty is awesome, he installed my suspension and did a very thorough and excellent job. He is just north of Columbus though.
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Feb 10, 2013 02:38
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Sockington posted:I gotta say, hard to beat FunctionAuto for pricing. link?
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Feb 10, 2013 14:12
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What are some negative aspects of raising the rev limiter in my cobb stage 1 2011 STi? I think I'm going to get a stage one protune this spring (and an STU legal one) but I've heard things about adding a little to the max engine speed helps a lot in keeping you off the rev limiter. In the past I have ridden the limiter for a hundred feet or so between course features when it would have been pointless to shift to third (within reason). Also, I want RCE blacks or yellows, but I don't think I want to lower my car. I think it would only be 10mm with the yellows, blacks are stock ride height. I also know the spring rates are very similar for the two. Anyone care to weigh in? I've decided to go with springs before bars but will likely forego the blistien (sp) and gt worx shocks. Bad idea? It's three times the price to add the shocks and I don't know... Will be paired with new ZII or Rival tires. I'll probably skip the new RE-11A because I'm sure the price will be way high compared to the competition. Car is auto crossed, commuted in, and driven up to snowboard on snowy roads. Also plenty of dirt roads to access bike trails. Anyone have some flannel I can borrow?
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Feb 10, 2013 14:39
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piss boner posted:link? Just PM Jamal or email him. 
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Feb 10, 2013 15:12
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What are some negative aspects of raising the rev limiter in my cobb stage 1 2011 STi? I think I'm going to get a stage one protune this spring (and an STU legal one) but I've heard things about adding a little to the max engine speed helps a lot in keeping you off the rev limiter. In the past I have ridden the limiter for a hundred feet or so between course features when it would have been pointless to shift to third (within reason). Yeah a few more revs isn't a big deal. The valvetrain is okay with up to about 7500 although power falls off pretty sharply before then. For springs, they are very similar. Yellows are a little lower, a little stiffer, so in theory the car should be a little faster with them around an auto-x course. Ride is going to be pretty similar either way. If you had a WRX I would say you need the shocks but the stuff on the STi is slightly better at least. It's pretty common for the shocks to be backordered but I will check anyway. The thing with upgrading to a better damper is that not only do you get more grip and better handling, usually the ride is better too. The other important thing is going to be your alignment. I would slot the lower holes in the front struts while they are out. If you mark them and have a set of toe plates you could change it yourself without too much trouble for auto-xes. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 20:22
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I had a nail that was too close to the sidewall to patch safely. The tire shop offered me a Toyo Extensa HP tire, which is a different tire from the stock Yokohama Avid. From what I've read elsewhere, and from what the tire shop guy said, Subaru allows up to 3/32 difference in tires. I did some quick math, the diameter of a new Yokohama is 25.2". I measured my tread depth and I'm about 8/32 - 9/32 area, which is less than the 10/32 new. The Toyo Extensa that the shop had have a diameter of 25.1" new. Taking that 0.1" difference, and remember my 7th grade algebra, we have 1/10 = x/32. Solve for x. 0.1" = 3.2/32" Taking all of that together, I am within 1 or 2 32's apart, which is within tolerable spec. I think my main concern at this point is to monitor the tires for different wear rates. But there is still that concern of "different tires are bad" in the back of my head. Am I setting myself up for long term damage?
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Feb 11, 2013 16:26
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IMO yes. Given the different grip levels you could negatively impact your differentials.
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Feb 11, 2013 17:23
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FogHelmut posted:I had a nail that was too close to the sidewall to patch safely. The tire shop offered me a Toyo Extensa HP tire, which is a different tire from the stock Yokohama Avid. Just the size of the tire isn't the only aspect that may affect it, as Wrar said. Even if you were to get the tires all exactly the same diameter, the stiffness and composition differences are what would get you, I think. I personally wouldn't get anything less than 2 tires at a time.
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Feb 11, 2013 17:41
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FogHelmut posted:I had a nail that was too close to the sidewall to patch safely. The tire shop offered me a Toyo Extensa HP tire, which is a different tire from the stock Yokohama Avid. The "official" Subaru of America tolerance is .25" in total wheel circumference so it looks like your outside of the spec just using a calculator. That said, having a different model tire is a no-go in my opinion. You'll have one tire responding to road and atmospheric conditions differently from the other 3. This may cause damage to your differentials. Neptr fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 11, 2013 18:58
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Tirerack will shave a tire if you ask them to. I would see about ordering another tire to match the others and having it shaved to the same diameter. http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/docs-advice-on-tires/needing-to-replace-just-one-tire-on-your-subaru-youll-need-a-shave-as-well
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Feb 11, 2013 20:14
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There was a flaw in my math. 3/32" of tread depth is actually equal to 6/32" of diameter, which is 0.1875". However, since Circumference = 3.14 * D, a tread depth difference of 3/32 would change the circumference by 0.589". For a circumference difference of 0.25", that would make the diameter difference 0.079". That's fairly close to 2.55/32. Which we then have to divide by 2 to account for both sides of the wheel. 1.275/32" difference in tread depth would be the equivalent 0.25" circumference change. That's pretty small. Small like a difference of 0.25" circumference is 2-3 rotations per mile. But I don't know if that's actually small in terms of engineering these things. Anyway, why would a major tire chain open themselves up to civil suits by providing false information regarding tire applications?
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Feb 11, 2013 21:35
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FogHelmut posted:
Because ultimately you have to sign off on the repair and as long as it's not seriously compromising safety, it's very unlikely you will be able to stick anything to them. If your center diff self destructs in 30k miles, how in the world are you going to be able to pin the failure on this tire chain? The solution is easy, order an OEM tire from tirerack and have them shave it down. You'll probably be able to deliver it to the same store you are dealing with right now. Tirerack is fast as hell and will probably have that tire to you by weds or Thursday if you ordered today.
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Feb 11, 2013 21:57
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FogHelmut posted:There was a flaw in my math. 3/32" of tread depth is actually equal to 6/32" of diameter, which is 0.1875". People go back and forth about how much of a difference it really makes. On one hand, it's not that many rotations/mile, but that means your spider gears are always turning where before they only turn when the car turns. On one hand, it can cause increased heat in the drivetrain, but how many people drive with low tire pressures and unrotated tires and drive for thousands of miles just fine? FWIW I made the same decision a month ago when one of my tires went. I found the same tire (OEM Bridgestone RE92A) on Craigslist that had 8/32 compared to the ones on the car that were 7/32. But I went with the exact same tire, and I plan on replacing them when the weather warms up and I can get summer tires. The .25" circumferential tolerance is a service spec to help technicians diagnose drivetrain binding that might occur from uneven wheel diameters. Ultimately it's up to you and your wallet. The best thing to do obviously is get 4 new tires, and getting a shaved tire is a close second (and makes good sense when the other tires are newer and you need to replace just 1). After that, it's a matter of risk vs. cost, and that's up to you, really.
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Feb 11, 2013 21:59
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I'd be worried about different tread patterns on the same axle more than anything, your tires will no longer displace water in the same way and will lose traction at different times. Surely that could be problematic.
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Feb 11, 2013 22:05
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bull3964 posted:Because ultimately you have to sign off on the repair and as long as it's not seriously compromising safety, it's very unlikely you will be able to stick anything to them. Well that's the start of the whole issue - the store said the OEM tires are unavailable, and they're backordered on TireRack. I'm just going to jack the thing up and measure the circumference. There's some kind of 30 day return on the tire. None of my normal driving takes me above 50 mph, so it shouldn't be too damaging in the meantime. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 11, 2013 22:10
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The other day I took the passenger side skirt off my 09 WRX wagon to find where the water was collecting after a rain. I either broke or lost two of the plastic plugs and put some waterproof tape over the gaps. I also noticed a small rubber plug on the underside of the car a few inches behind the front wheel well. There was a bit of water forming to drop at the spot so I pulled it out and a small amount of water came out. The paint was absent around the skirt of the plug, as it the body was painted with it inserted. I replaced the plug and after the rain last night the water was back. It was still there after sitting out of the rain all day so I removed the same plug and a maybe half a liter drained out. It seems the water gets in through the holes in the body made to receive the plastic plugs, but only on the passenger side. Not sure what is different about that side though. This seems like a good way to create all sorts of nasty rust, but I don't see any other simple way. For what's it's worth, the plastic liners in the wheel wells seem to somehow suck up leaves and hold them till they rot as a live worm fell out while I was working the skirt issue.
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Feb 11, 2013 23:22
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sanchez posted:I'd be worried about different tread patterns on the same axle more than anything, your tires will no longer displace water in the same way and will lose traction at different times. Surely that could be problematic. And that's what I'd be more worried by. A bit of differences in circumference isnt going to unduly wear poo poo out. But differing traction levels? THAT'S something I would avoid like AIDS.
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Feb 11, 2013 23:39
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I measured the tires, they're within 1/8" circumference. That's good enough for now.
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Feb 12, 2013 12:58
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I live in Canada and my '07 Leggy Spec B needs new brakes, pretty badly too as the rotors/pads are 5 years old now. I've got Hawk HPS pads currently and I think they're a pretty great street pad, with no noise and very little dust, but I'm curious if anyone has other recommendations for a street pad? I'm also fairly certain the front calipers are shot and need to be replaced. I'm sticking with OE and I was wondering if anyone knew a place in Canada (Ontario preferably) where I can get OE parts for cheap. I'd much rather avoid the 19% duty tax we get hit with when ordering from the U.S.
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Feb 12, 2013 20:24
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Oh damnit, I have road hazard on the stock tires. I just talked to the dealership, they're going to try to figure something out with Subaru of America, but who knows if I'll get anything. Apparently I'm SOL if I don't go directly to them in the first place. These things were much less complicated when I drove beaters.
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Feb 12, 2013 21:28
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Edit: never mind. Way too heavy. Edit2: I can do a border run as states below, but sounds expensive to ship. I could meet you halfway to Toronto if you pay my travel expenses ($30 in gas and $10 to pickup the package in the states). Sockington fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 01:17
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I've been using stoptech pads for a couple of years now and like them much more than the hawks I had before them- higher friction across the board, no noise, and can handle much higher temps. Plus they are cheaper. Shipping rotors to Canada is pretty expensive so unless you can go pick them up at the border I would try to get them locally at a parts store. I like the Centric blanks because they have a black anti-corrosion coating on the non-friction surfaces. Shipping 4 rotors via USPS to Toronto costs $266. It's about $100 via ups but I hear that results in extra delivery fees that could make up most of the difference. Most Canadians ask for USPS so I should figure out how that works... On the other hand, shipping 4 rotors to Sock's border pickup spot would only be $10 because one of my distributors is in Michigan (but they won't ship internationally). So if you're not very far from Port Huron, MI, it might be the way to go. jamal fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 01:38
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jamal posted:Yeah a few more revs isn't a big deal. The valvetrain is okay with up to about 7500 although power falls off pretty sharply before then. As usual thanks for the advice! I don't want to irreversibly modify anything though. I think you have me leaning toward the yellows, although I read poo poo like "the gr chassis is sensitive to lowering". Don't know how much stock I can put in that type of thing though. And maybe I'll just see how the car does on the dyno and then really consider the rev limit increase. I should probably buy a downpipe first but I'm a chicken.
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Feb 13, 2013 01:49
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Semi offtopic but kinda relevant: UPS charges a sliding scale of brokerage fees to Canadians. I've gotten dinged for $80+ on parcels before for things that were maybe like $3 in duty so it's quite the racket. Apparently higher end UPS shipping options "include" (i.e. don't charge) brokerage fees but they are a pretty big jump in cost. I always ask for USPS anyway because gently caress supporting that business model.
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Feb 13, 2013 01:58
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I went into a snow bank sideways earlier tonight and got the front end stuck until I was able to dig/drive it out. No damage whatsoever so far as I can tell, but when driving it out the wheels spun and the ABS, CEL, and "er SS" came on along with the cruise light blinking. I know ABS and er SS are due to wheel slip and would normally go away after a few miles/restarts, but what would make the CEL and cruise come on? Did I nuke a speed sensor when I plowed into the snow? It drove home fine, so the suspension/steering seem to be no worse for the wear.
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Feb 13, 2013 03:42
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Hillridge posted:but what would make the CEL and cruise come on? Plug in a code reader and find out! 
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Feb 13, 2013 04:26
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Hillridge posted:I went into a snow bank sideways earlier tonight and got the front end stuck until I was able to dig/drive it out. No damage whatsoever so far as I can tell, but when driving it out the wheels spun and the ABS, CEL, and "er SS" came on along with the cruise light blinking. Newer Subarus disable the Cruise Control (blinking Cruise light) when the CEL comes on; this was a recent revelation for me as well. Like Sockington said, plug in a reader and check what code(s) you're throwing. Given that you're receiving an 'er SS' and the ABS is disabled, it does sounds like a speed sensor issue.
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Feb 13, 2013 12:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Semi offtopic but kinda relevant: UPS charges a sliding scale of brokerage fees to Canadians. I've gotten dinged for $80+ on parcels before for things that were maybe like $3 in duty so it's quite the racket. Apparently higher end UPS shipping options "include" (i.e. don't charge) brokerage fees but they are a pretty big jump in cost. I always ask for USPS anyway because gently caress supporting that business model. The big problem with ups is you just don't know how bad they'll gently caress you on duty. I've been charges 150 on a 400 dollar package. Sometimes the duty is bad enough that it makes US parts more expensive. USPS only charges tax, and even better it goes through Canada post so you go to your nearest post office instead of some shipping depot with awful hours in buttfuck nowhere.
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Feb 13, 2013 14:09
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Crustashio posted:The big problem with ups is you just don't know how bad they'll gently caress you on duty. I've been charges 150 on a 400 dollar package. Sometimes the duty is bad enough that it makes US parts more expensive. USPS only charges tax, and even better it goes through Canada post so you go to your nearest post office instead of some shipping depot with awful hours in buttfuck nowhere. I had heard rumours that the Senate review on Canadian consumers getting price-gouged was going to recommend that UPS drop this behaviour but either it didn't make it into the final paper or I just haven't heard about it yet. Not like it has any teeth either if our senators keep going around beating up their wives.
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Feb 13, 2013 15:19
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Frankenstein posted:Newer Subarus disable the Cruise Control (blinking Cruise light) when the CEL comes on; this was a recent revelation for me as well. Like Sockington said, plug in a reader and check what code(s) you're throwing. Given that you're receiving an 'er SS' and the ABS is disabled, it does sounds like a speed sensor issue. Thanks, I'm going to borrow a code reader today and see what's going on. The ABS and er SS are gone now, but CEL and cruise remain. edit: Everything is back to normal now, yay for self healing cars. Hillridge fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 16:17
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So the salvage yard is being called today to come get the '02 Forester, and my fiance already found and purchased a replacement car yesterday, an '05 Scion xB. I liked the Forester a lot better but it was his money, and at least the new car is also a manual.
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Feb 13, 2013 19:27
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My 2007 finally threw its first CEL at about 120k the other month. Not surprisingly it's the P0456 (EVAP system leak) with the P0420 (Cat below threshold). Some googling tells me I am not alone. When it first happened back in November, it would reset itself periodically and go away for days at a time, but it's been constant for the last couple weeks now. I'm only vaguely familiar with emissions and fuel systems, so I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than I might have some helpful budget trouble-shooting before I give in to the seemingly inevitable smoke test, checking the catalytic converter, etc.
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Feb 14, 2013 02:26
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Faerunner posted:So the salvage yard is being called today to come get the '02 Forester, and my fiance already found and purchased a replacement car yesterday, an '05 Scion xB. I liked the Forester a lot better but it was his money, and at least the new car is also a manual. This tale has truly ended in tragedy...
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Feb 14, 2013 02:38
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