|
Topoisomerase posted:Yeah I stalked to see if there were other videos and saw that one, she doesn't look terribly ataxic, I agree, but she does look like she overextends a bit. Ill try and get a video of that tomorrow.
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 09:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
Her collar & tags sound heavy and look like they're hitting her chest when she moves. I wonder if the odd stepping is a way to compensate for any discomfort they're creating?
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 13:59
|
|
|
windex posted:Find a non toxic yuck spray the dog hates and prepare to cover your hands in it during bitey time when redirection fails. Puppies don't respond well to no without reinforcing penalties. Fraction posted:You really don't need to use bitter sprays. It's not teaching a puppy much other than to find your hands aversive (the only if you actually remember to spray before the pup starts chomping). It's much better to act like a puppy yourself and yelp very loudly and turn away to give the puppy the cold shoulder for a while; or, for dogs that are excited by yelping or way over threshold, yelping & immediately leaving the room. Both of these are inappropriate ways to handle mouthing and biting. I have covered this in the OP. Although I do state that a yelp or "ouch" is appropriate, it is NOT the intent to mimic a puppy, it is to create a verbal cue to generalize to people. It is virtually impossible for us to sound like a puppy yelp. Although it may sound like it to our ears, dogs hear it differently. Leaving the room is good advice and what I recommend doing, generally with the puppy tethered. As I said in the OP, I strongly do not recommend crating or locking your dog in a different room, as this is likely to poison that area if you do it with any repetition. Aversive sprays can be used on inanimate objects such as table legs and electrical cords if you're having problems, because there is no way for these items to provide feedback to the dog. Lastly, to encourage appropriate behavior with skin (I define this as licking), do something that is likely to promote that behavior. I have had repeated good success with freezing a stick of butter and rubbing it on your hands before play. Heavy praise for licking, and before long you can also put this on cue. vvvv - Because people naturally say ouch or yelp in pain. The point is to make it a cue that is natural and immediate to you and everyone else that might be affected by the behavior. MrFurious fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 15:50
|
|
|
^^^ That doesn't answer how it is 'inappropriate'. How is yelping and giving the cold shoulder inappropriate?  If the yelping isn't to mimic another puppy's yelp of alarm/pain then why yelp instead of using a specific verbal cue (e.g. 'teeth' or something else unique). Fraction fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 16:17
|
|
|
"Inappropriate" doesn't just mean uncouth. It can also mean improper, incorrect, or perhaps a better synonym in this case would be ineffective.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 17:47
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:
I mean it doesn't matter to me because I always thought yelping at puppies was loving stupid and have always used verbal cues anyway, but just saying
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 17:47
|
|
|
Superconsndar posted:You are literally the first person I have ever heard say this Not really clear to me what you're saying, but this isn't rocket science. It's exactly the same as a no reward marker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 17:53
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:"Inappropriate" doesn't just mean uncouth. It can also mean improper, incorrect, or perhaps a better synonym in this case would be ineffective. I don't think Fraction was confused as to what the word meant.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 17:53
|
|
|
a life less posted:Her collar & tags sound heavy and look like they're hitting her chest when she moves. I wonder if the odd stepping is a way to compensate for any discomfort they're creating? She still does it with no collar on, but I guess it might be muscle memory? It's not really that heavy, but it does dangle a bit too much and we've got a new breakaway collar on the way here. Here's what I managed to get video of this morning (excuse the bedhair, it's early :-/): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkckjDOlzM0 There wasn't a long enough strip of grass nearby, so hopefully road works. Late night Ataxia googling has me worried  She high steps a ton, but doesn't fall over doing the wet dog shake. She does sometimes lose her back leg balance when making sharp turns at speed, but it's mostly on slick surfaces so it might not be related.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:18
|
|
|
So my dog Shanti (almost 9 months old) is a giant. He is a Newfie, and as he gets bigger and bigger, my cat hates him more and more. They usually ignore each other, but at about midnight the cat will start making this low growl/hiss/horrible sounding meow symphony at him, and the dog will respond by growling playfully and barking. This makes the cat more upset. They typically don't stop this until the cat a) backs down or b) tries to attack my dog. Both are not good options. How do I make them get along (and let me sleep, Christ, it's midnight!) I've taken to kicking my dog out of the room once it starts, then letting him back in a few hours later when the cat is sleeping, but that's not really an ideal solution. How do I get them to coexist? For additional info: My cat has never liked dogs, but he lived with my mom's dog for a few years and though they didn't cuddle or play, they did coexist peacefully with no fights. My mom's dog is a Golden Retriever, so he's also pretty large compared to a cat.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:19
|
|
|
My Mom recently adopted a dog from a shelter with the encouragement of the family. She has a big empty house, has always had a dog, and not only has the time, but a huge fenced in yard. The dog is a Shepard mix of some sort (about 35 pounds) and estimated to be around 18 months old. She currently shares the home with my brother who is recently out of college and working during the day. Now for the first few weeks things went smoothly. The dog is as sweet as it gets. Has some behavior issues still like jumping up and wetting, but progress seems to be getting made. However, for the first time a couple weeks ago he snapped at my Mom and took some skin off her hand. This was a huge shock considering the dog has never shown a sign of being aggressive before. This occurred when my brother returned home from work and was putting groceries at the front door that my Mom was helping bring in. Things went back to normal for 2 weeks. However, last night when I visited for the Super Bowl, he had another incident. It was at the end of the day and we were both at the dining room table. She was packing a paper bag with leftovers for me to take home. The dog was sitting between the two of us while we were standing and he stared at her and then just jumped up to bite her arm in a vicious manner (thankfully missed). Literally a second later he was normal. She left the room to get away and a minute later he was in the room with her trying to snuggle up to her. We're all a little confused and upset by this. I understand aggression if it was around food or something else. But this truly felt unexpected. There was no trigger that I could see. The only thing we can think of is that he is not as close to her as he has gotten to my brother who lives there. He does seem to be forming an unhealthy attachment to him (following him everywhere, crying when he leaves, waiting by the door when he leaves, sitting in his room when he leaves). I don't know if he bonds better with males or what. But maybe he perceived that she was stealing attention from the guys from him. Heck, we wondered even if paper bags were some kind of trigger. I guess I don't know what to do. She's pretty rattled by this. Is this some kind of issue that there is training for? Is this common at all? All I can think of is that maybe he doesn't respect or feel as submissive around her. Any help would be appreciated. Niwrad fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:19
|
|
|
The dog didn't "miss," he intentionally didn't bite her. Dogs have amazing control of their mouths. Step one is to head in and get him checked by the vet. There is a long list of medical issues that could be causing this, from pain to something neurological. There's not enough information to shed more light at this point, but it's possible he's resource guarding individuals or objects in the room as well. If the medical stuff comes back okay, you need to find a trainer with experience in reactivity and aggression. There are links for this in the OP, but be sure that you are upfront with them about the bite, because that is serious. Also, just based upon the terminology that you used in your post, I highly recommend that you and your family check out a couple of the books listed in the OP of this thread and the training thread. Dog training has evolved a lot in the last decade or so, and any ideas revolving around pack theory or dominance are sorely outdated and ineffective.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:28
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:"Inappropriate" doesn't just mean uncouth. It can also mean improper, incorrect, or perhaps a better synonym in this case would be ineffective. Yup, it's highly ineffective. That's why it's so often recommended. And why it has worked for so many people. I've never heard of yelping as being a no-reward marker. That's really not what people use it for. But *~in your experience~*,
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:28
|
|
|
Fraction posted:Yup, it's highly ineffective. That's why it's so often recommended. And why it has worked for so many people. Try this: Pat Miller, via WDJ posted:Remove: When your puppy bites hard enough to cause you pain, say “Ouch!” in a calm voice, gently remove your body part from his mouth, and take your attention away from him for two to five seconds. You’re using negative punishment, just like the pup’s mom and littermates. If he continues to grab at you when you remove your attention, put yourself on the other side of a baby gate or exercise pen. When he is calm, re-engage with him. (source) Karen Pryor posted:Don't let the puppy play with your hands or clothes. Simply stop the fun, and leave. (source) This is just off the cuff. I know Donaldson says the same thing, and I'd be surprised if Dunbar doesn't have something similar. I haven't seen any of the big names recommend a high pitched yelp, but feel free to correct me. The audio cue you end up using absolutely does serve as either a NRM or negative punishment, depending upon the details.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:54
|
|
|
So, adopted a new puppy and had a few questions. This is only week one with him so I realize these things take time and patience. The number one thing I'm trying to work on is when you leave him alone for more than 5 seconds he cries, whines, howls, and generally freaks out. He has to be near me at all times, even when napping. I've been trying to leave the room for short periods of time and come back in only when he is quiet (but he doesn't stop), so I've been coming back in and ignoring him until he calms down. He pretty much does instantly when he gets near my feet and curls up again. Is this the right thing to do? poxin fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Feb 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:The dog didn't "miss," he intentionally didn't bite her. Dogs have amazing control of their mouths. Step one is to head in and get him checked by the vet. There is a long list of medical issues that could be causing this, from pain to something neurological. Thanks. I do think he would have bitten if he could have though. He got the shirt she was wearing. But maybe that was his intention. He's scheduled for another visit to the Vet this week I believe, so I'll have them bring it up. And training is definitely something that is in the works. Besides classes, we're looking at bringing out a private trainer for a couple sessions to walk everyone through the proper techniques. I'll also grab a couple of the books. I guess I've just been really depressed about this. It's a great dog and my Mom was incredibly excited. Just hope this isn't something serious that could ruin that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:13
|
|
|
Niwrad posted:Thanks. I do think he would have bitten if he could have though. He got the shirt she was wearing. But maybe that was his intention. Just make sure the trainer you find isn't going to use any corrections. A force or coercion based trainer is going to make your problem worse, not better.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:28
|
|
|
Niwrad posted:Thanks. I do think he would have bitten if he could have though. He got the shirt she was wearing. But maybe that was his intention. Just a little note about the sleeve thing-- I have a herding dog and he will jump up and nip at sleeves specifically if he gets upset/ nervous/ feels like he has to try and 'control' the situation. In my case, he's done it twice to men he doesn't recognize when they got too close to him (he barked a ton first to show he wasn't happy) and a couple times to my boyfriend's kids if they were trying to leave the room and he wanted all his people together in the same place. I am 100% sure he wasn't trying to BITE DOWN in these cases, but to herd- it's his instinct to nip when he wants to control (he's a corgi, so he was bred to herd by nipping instead of by giving the eye), and although it is TOTALLY inappropriate and I'm sooo embarrassed that he's done it, it's also understandable that a herding dog would want to herd when he gets upset. I've had my dog since he was a puppy and I know what he gets upset about and what he doesn't, so it's a little less scary than your situation where you're not really sure what the stressor is. But anyway, nipping at the sleeve could be the same kind of issue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:40
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:This is just off the cuff. I know Donaldson says the same thing, and I'd be surprised if Dunbar doesn't have something similar. I haven't seen any of the big names recommend a high pitched yelp, but feel free to correct me. The audio cue you end up using absolutely does serve as either a NRM or negative punishment, depending upon the details. They aren't saying that yelping is going to cause a negative impact, though. Your word choice, alongside pairing my suggestion (to yelp & ignore or yelp & remove self) with the suggestion to cover one's hands in bitter spray, suggested that it was wholly 'inappropriate' to yelp. That is not the case. quote:Pat Miller: You’re using negative punishment, just like the pup’s mom and littermates. The ignoring of the biting puppy, or removal of yourself, is the same tactic that a puppy's mother or littermates would use. Do you have any quotes from anyone saying to NOT yelp? Like, specifically not to do that because it is inappropriate. Dunbar (Sirius Dog Training): quote:Puppy biting seldom causes appreciable harm, but many bites are quite painful and elicit an appropriate reaction—a yelp and a pause in an otherwise extremely enjoyable play session. Thus, your puppy learns that his sharp teeth and weak jaws can hurt. quote:A simple "Ouch!" is sufficient. If your pup acknowledges your "ouch" and stops biting, praise her, lure her to sit (to reaffirm that you are in control), reward her with a liver treat, and then resume playing. If your pup ignores the "ouch" and continues biting, yelp "Owwwww!" and leave the room. Your puppy has lost her playmate. Return after a 30-second time-out and make up by lure-rewarding your puppy to come, sit, lie down, and calm down, before resuming play.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
I read a recent Dunbar article where he suggests not yelping because some pups seem to think that they've just created one great big fun squeaky toy. The pitch can add to the excited mania of the pup. I think the yelp -> stop play needs to be associated properly, and if the yelp needs to have an association created, why not use just about anything? There's no hard fast rule about this working/not working 100% of the time with all dogs, but just something to think of. I tend to agree that it's more a marker than anything else.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 19:51
|
|
|
Fraction posted:They aren't saying that yelping is going to cause a negative impact, though. Your word choice, alongside pairing my suggestion (to yelp & ignore or yelp & remove self) with the suggestion to cover one's hands in bitter spray, suggested that it was wholly 'inappropriate' to yelp. That is not the case. Go back and read the offending post. What I felt was inappropriate was #1 - aversive sprays and #2 - that we are mimicking puppies when we make a noise and that it should be loud and high pitched. I think I stated this clearly. We do not sound like dogs. Period. Moreover, the research that I am aware of on audible spectrum and canine cognition (mostly by McConnell) suggests strongly that a high-pitched yelp is more likely to excite than to stop a behavior. When it does stop it, it's due to startle response, which, if you keep using it, isn't likely to continue to work as the dog becomes desensitized to it. Also, I believe that as people, especially new and inexperienced owners, we are more likely to focus on the noise than the more important behavior, which is us withdrawing our attention.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 20:27
|
|
|
Ok, we get it, you guys disagree about the specific pitch at which one delivers the "you are biting me and that means no play time for a moment" cue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 20:47
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:Moreover, the research that I am aware of on audible spectrum and canine cognition (mostly by McConnell) suggests strongly that a high-pitched yelp is more likely to excite than to stop a behavior.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 21:57
|
|
|
Rixatrix posted:Are you referring to this or something else? I think that's it, it's whichever one she cites in The Other End of the Leash.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2013 22:22
|
|
|
Plus_Infinity posted:Just a little note about the sleeve thing-- I have a herding dog and he will jump up and nip at sleeves specifically if he gets upset/ nervous/ feels like he has to try and 'control' the situation. In my case, he's done it twice to men he doesn't recognize when they got too close to him (he barked a ton first to show he wasn't happy) and a couple times to my boyfriend's kids if they were trying to leave the room and he wanted all his people together in the same place. I am 100% sure he wasn't trying to BITE DOWN in these cases, but to herd- it's his instinct to nip when he wants to control (he's a corgi, so he was bred to herd by nipping instead of by giving the eye), and although it is TOTALLY inappropriate and I'm sooo embarrassed that he's done it, it's also understandable that a herding dog would want to herd when he gets upset. I've had my dog since he was a puppy and I know what he gets upset about and what he doesn't, so it's a little less scary than your situation where you're not really sure what the stressor is. But anyway, nipping at the sleeve could be the same kind of issue. This didn't seem to be a nip. He does the playful mouthing, but this came across real aggressive. Came with a loud snarl as he did it. Can't be sure if he would have bit down hard if he could get a grip, or if that was his intent. It happened so quick. I just know it has to stop. After researching all day we have a private trainer coming to the house on Sunday for a session. She seems to match all the requirements in the OP perfectly (certifications, memberships), uses positive-reinforcement training, and has an impressive history. The reviews of her services also came up spotless. Hopefully it will go well and we can make progress. I'm a bit nervous about the whole thing and how he will react to her and whatever situations she puts him in. He has been such a wonderful companion with the exception of those two incidences. Would be heartbreaking to her and everyone else to have to take steps in removing him from the home.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 07:49
|
|
|
Niwrad posted:
A good trainer won't set the dog up to fail, even during an assessment. They really should want to avoid rehearsals of bad behaviour at all costs, so you're not likely to see any explosions during the trainer's visit. Good for you for calling a trainer, and good luck in dealing with these issues.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 14:36
|
|
|
a life less posted:A good trainer won't set the dog up to fail, even during an assessment. They really should want to avoid rehearsals of bad behaviour at all costs, so you're not likely to see any explosions during the trainer's visit. Good for you for calling a trainer, and good luck in dealing with these issues. Just want to echo this. Way back when we had our consultation with Psyche, I was totally ignorant about dogs with problems and thought the trainer needed to see EXACTLY what Psyche was doing or how would she know how bad it was? So I brought doggie out right away and she had a little meltdown while the trainer looked at me like I was an idiot (not really, but she had thought it was a bad idea and was right). I know now that a good trainer will be able to pick up on the subtle signs and won't want or need to provoke the worst behavior to make a diagnosis. So trust the trainer to do what they do and just give them as much information as you can.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 15:58
|
|
|
About 2 months ago I submitted applications to two different corgi rescues looking for a young adult female Pembroke. Thanks to this thread along with "Culture Clash" and "The Power of Positive Dog Training," the rescues replied that my applications look great and that they'll keep me posted. I've been in contact with both rescues recently and neither of them have any dogs available currently, so I'm looking to expand my approach. It's not my intention to rush the process, I don't need a dog right this instant, I just feel like I might be waiting for the better part of a year with the rescues so I'd like to cover my bases. A family friend mentioned that I might want to check with local breeders and see if they have any young adult dogs that have been returned to them. None of the breeders in my state (Indiana) have websites, so I had to look in Ohio. I'm looking for a 2-4 year old, but I know the breeding credentials matter just as if I were buying a puppy. Both of these breeders are active members of the Ohio Valley PWC Club, and they both take "unwanted" dogs back so that makes me feel a bit comfortable. Could an expert take a quick look to see if these are reputable? http://www.melynrhoscorgis.com : This one looked promising at a first glance, but then I saw the inexplicable Corgi/Great Pyrenees crossbreeds done in vitro... Also the page on "fluffies," which I know isn't a breed standard. http://www.springmillcorgis.com/Introduction.htm : This one hasn't been updated for a few years. Millions fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Feb 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 16:58
|
|
|
Millions posted:http://www.melynrhoscorgis.com : This one looked promising at a first glance, but then I saw the inexplicable Corgi/Great Pyrenees crossbreeds done in vitro... Also the page on "fluffies," which I know isn't a breed standard. Holy crap I remember this. Be encouraged by the fact that the Great Pyr cross was very definitely not done intentionally and was made into a lawsuit. The breeder did ask for their Pembroke bitch to be artificially inseminated, but someone at the lab grabbed the wrong vial of frozen semen and those pups were the result. The bitch had to have a c-section and was spayed and lost eligibility for showing and registering any of her future offspring. It was a huge uproar at the time, and I recall non-dog people not getting how this was lawsuit-worthy. As for fluffies, I highly doubt they are actively breeding for that coat type, but of all the genes worth completely screening out and avoiding like a plague, that's not one of them. ...said the fluff-factor Cardigan owner.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2013 17:47
|
|
|
Is there a way to look for a certain type of mixed breed puppies? About 12 years ago my family bought a Golden Retriever puppy from some backyard breeder advertising in the newspaper. We paid I believe $400 for him. He had skin problems his whole life, and my mother had to put him down on January 4th due to cancer. Well a month has passed now and she's telling me she wants another Golden Retriever. It is just a companion dog for her, and so it's not important that it is a purebred. And so she is not enthusiastic spending $1700 to avoid hereditary problems this time. Would I just call the Golden Retriever clubs in my area and ask them? Do you guys have any other advice about this? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 15:47
|
|
|
Surgeon General posted:Is there a way to look for a certain type of mixed breed puppies? You can, and you can also google breed specific rescues in your area. Honestly, as common as goldens are you could probably find one (or a close enough mix) pretty easily just browsing the city shelter. Retriever mixes are everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
My wife and I are new owners of a 4-year old German Shepherd / Golden Retriever mix from the shelter that arrived there because his owner, an elderly single man, died. I really just have two questions, because things seem to be going very well - he had some separation anxiety that we're working through (I'm sure we didn't completely eliminate it in the past 5 days, but he did great today when we were gone for two hours in his room with a Kong ball full of peanut better) - but aside from that he's doing great. Question 1: Kind of weird but - while we were house training him (he was a yard dog that was just put out into the yard we're guessing, he knows not to go inside but he didn't really get the whole going-to-the-bathroom-without-it-taking-an-hour thing at first. He's already got it down though) we noticed that he never 'marked his territory,' ever. At all. I thought this was a little strange, but I attributed it to him not feeling entirely comfortable with us and the new place yet. Today he did for the first time, which I'm taking as a good sign. Does any of this thinking sound correct? Question 2: In the separation anxiety department - one thing I've read is to leave a toy that he likes with him. The thing about this dog is that he's ignored every toy we have with him. I found this, which looks like good information, but one thing about our new dog is that he's both very low-key in general (and I think still mourning his original owner) and still not sure about us (but he's getting there). He also seems to have no chewing behavior at all. He mostly just licks the Kong ball from what I've seen. So I know his reaction to us trying to get him to play with a toy will be mostly confusion as to what the hell we're doing. Does anyone have advice here? I know that a lot of his shyness is going to go away with time, and we're willing to wait, but that part of helping him cope with separation anxiety seems like it'll be missing until we can do that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 02:37
|
|
|
ButWhatIf posted:The bitch had to have a c-section and was spayed and lost eligibility for showing and registering any of her future offspring. Well I assume future offspring wouldn't be a thing since she was spayed. But I think it's pretty dumb if having a mixed litter would affect being able to register future offspring....
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 06:30
|
|
|
Japanese Dating Sim posted:My wife and I are new owners of a 4-year old German Shepherd / Golden Retriever mix from the shelter that arrived there because his owner, an elderly single man, died. quote:Question 2: In the separation anxiety department - one thing I've read is to leave a toy that he likes with him. The thing about this dog is that he's ignored every toy we have with him. I found this, which looks like good information, but one thing about our new dog is that he's both very low-key in general (and I think still mourning his original owner) and still not sure about us (but he's getting there). He also seems to have no chewing behavior at all. He mostly just licks the Kong ball from what I've seen. So I know his reaction to us trying to get him to play with a toy will be mostly confusion as to what the hell we're doing. Does anyone have advice here? I know that a lot of his shyness is going to go away with time, and we're willing to wait, but that part of helping him cope with separation anxiety seems like it'll be missing until we can do that. I think you're mixing up a few different concepts here. Not playing with toys has nothing to do with separation anxiety. That link you posted will help your dog learn to play with toys, but that is unlikely to affect his separation anxiety alone. The point of leaving a toy with him is that you give him something to occupy his time and keep him calm instead of focusing on the fact that he is all alone. The best analogy of separation anxiety that I have found is to compare it to claustrophobia. Watching a dog have a full-on breakdown of severe SA is like watching a claustrophobic get stuck in a coffin and it is absolutely heartbreaking and terrifying. There are some books in the OP of the training thread that deal specifically with SA, so I recommend that you check those out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2013 17:16
|
|
|
MrFurious posted:I think you're mixing up a few different concepts here. Not playing with toys has nothing to do with separation anxiety. That link you posted will help your dog learn to play with toys, but that is unlikely to affect his separation anxiety alone. The point of leaving a toy with him is that you give him something to occupy his time and keep him calm instead of focusing on the fact that he is all alone. The best analogy of separation anxiety that I have found is to compare it to claustrophobia. Watching a dog have a full-on breakdown of severe SA is like watching a claustrophobic get stuck in a coffin and it is absolutely heartbreaking and terrifying. There are some books in the OP of the training thread that deal specifically with SA, so I recommend that you check those out. Right, I think I understand the theories about how to help them with it - I've been doing a lot to help him associate his room with good things like food, playtime, pets and treats. And we've been putting him in there in random intervals and all that. I was just viewing the toy(s) as one more tool that I would like him to have that isn't yet available. Judging by his progress I'm not very concerned though. It looks like he'll be over the SA before he gets interested in toys.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2013 01:54
|
|
|
My wife and I have been contemplating getting a puppy for quite some time now. We've done breed research and would like a dog that is active, intelligent and pliable. I haven't raised a puppy for a number of years, nor has she. We became interested in standard poodles for their intelligence, activity, and because they look incredible with a close, even coat. We live in a 1000ft3 duplex with a sizable, fenced in backyard and a nearby dogpark and beach. It came to our attention that a friend of a friend has a littler of standard poodle pups available. We are in the process of contacting them with myriad questions, but I have some other concerns and could use some advice. I work 24/48 shift work in EMS, and she is 9-5/M-F. I am worried about those first couple of weeks. We have decided to crate train, and I am contemplating taking 2 or 3 shifts off (between 8 and 11 days off) to be with the pup and begin to lay the groundwork for crate training. I am worried that sufficient comfort will not be attained in that time period before we must crate her for 8 hours or so on my duty days. Are there any ways to remedy this? I suppose I could have a friend come by for restroom breaks during the day, but I'm beyond nervous. Also, I am unsure, until we get a reply from the seller, about pedigree and health issues. Should I avoid this if there is no documentation or guarantee? Although it has crossed my mind, I won't be training this dog as a gun dog, nor as any sort of working class. I've considered dock dog training based on their waterhound past--is this going to be realistic with a non-pedigree dog? Also, most people seem to be skeptical of any temperament testing on here. I've read the whole thread, but are there any instant behavioral red flags? It's been so long since I have bought a puppy, and literature seems to point at many different things to look for, but rarely fingers warning signs. We want a social, active, and friendly dog, and are nervous about the process. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 18:39
|
|
|
A friend of a friend litter of puppies is probably not a good place to get a puppy, unless your friend of a friend is heavily involved with the breed and tests their dogs' health, performance and temperament. It sounds like a convenient backyard breeder. Convenience isn't the best reason to buy a puppy. If they have a website I'm sure people would be happy to pour through it though. Your schedule sounds tough. If you can afford it, I like the idea of taking some time off to settle the puppy in. But remember that it may be a bit of a shock to the puppy to have you around 27/7, and then alone 8 hours a day. Plenty of people manage okay with traditional long work days and puppies. I would recommend hiring a friend or professional dog walker to come by for a 1/2 hr long puppy visit in the middle of the day for the first few months at least. You can dock dive with a mutt with zero problems -- or at least you can here. I imagine the dock diving organizations in your area will have zero issues with whether your dog has papers or not. Normally they just ask you to pay a membership fee and they're happy. Dock diving membership fees can be pretty exorbitant, but that's another story unto itself. No puppy is guaranteed to be healthy. However a pup from health tested parents and from a breeder who is intimately familiar with the lines from which they're breeding will help reduce the risk. When getting a puppy, it's normally best to look for the most middle of the road puppy in the litter. Not one that's off exploring on its own that seems to have limitless energy, or a shy one in the back. An accomplished breeder will probably do well to match you with a puppy from their litter, and will be able to tell you straight up if they feel like there's no match for you among the pups. A breeder will know the pup better than you, so I like when they'll make a decision for you. My guess is that this litter probably isn't of the best quality. I'm pretty picky with Standard Poodles, and I see a lot more ugly, mediocre ones than I see nice ones so I would want to find a really nice breeder who's breeding what I'm looking for first and foremost. Sometimes it's helpful to think that you're buying the breeder, not the dog.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 18:56
|
|
|
a life less posted:My guess is that this litter probably isn't of the best quality. I'm pretty picky with Standard Poodles, and I see a lot more ugly, mediocre ones than I see nice ones so I would want to find a really nice breeder who's breeding what I'm looking for first and foremost. Sometimes it's helpful to think that you're buying the breeder, not the dog. Yeah, I have the same suspicion. It is my cursory impression that the family has show dogs and these were bred from two of their dogs. I'm mostly looking for a pet, not a show dog, but would like some idea of blood lines, etc. I'll know more about it later today, I just want to be a responsible as possible and put myself and the puppy in the best possible situations.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:01
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:My wife and I have been contemplating getting a puppy for quite some time now. We've done breed research and would like a dog that is active, intelligent and pliable. I haven't raised a puppy for a number of years, nor has she. We became interested in standard poodles for their intelligence, activity, and because they look incredible with a close, even coat. We live in a 1000ft3 duplex with a sizable, fenced in backyard and a nearby dogpark and beach. Those schedules sound pretty rough for house-training a puppy. Take a look at the guide I've got in the OP for more details, but that looks like a serious challenge and a lousy time for the dog. If it were me and I wasn't able to take a few weeks off to get the dog settled in, I would probably look at adopting an older dog. As far as the seller, if this individual is not in the business of breeding dogs, walk away. There is zero reason to support BYBs or puppy millers. If cost is an issue, then you need to seriously rethink getting a dog for the reasons outlined in the OP. You might also look into a shelter dog instead. Any dog can do dogsports, so if you are truly interested in dock dogs, get a dog first and discover if the dog enjoys it, then take the next step. I really don't think breed should be a factor here unless you're looking to go pro. As far as temperament testing, there are a ton of different tests that people perform - mostly on intakes to shelters and rescues. The VAT in the OP is the only one I'm aware of that tests puppies specifically (although technically all of them could probably be applied), and as discussed, it is of limited use. As a volunteer and a trainer who frequently works with puppies, both in Behavior Modification programs and in Puppy Kindergarten and Puppy Socialization classes, I think there are useful conclusions to draw from the VAT, but as stated, they do not describe the long-term personality of the puppy. Just where they are on that particular day at that particular time. If you go with a breeder, you should be visiting the puppies multiple times between birth and adoption. A good breeder will help you select one that fits your lifestyle well. If you are worried about your puppies temperament, my advice would be to focus less on any kind of temperament testing and more on being diligent about socialization starting on day one of taking the puppy home. efb: Serves me right for posting at work.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
LeeMajors posted:New puppy! It would probably be best to have somebody come by to let it out of the crate at lunch, 8 hours is a long time but lots of people do it. I'd be way more worried about the health. It is beyond devastating to bond and train a dog for a few years and then have it develop genetic health problems. It can also be extremely expensive. Paying the extra few hundred is 100% worth it in the long run. I don't know much about poodles but I doubt there's a specific dock jumping lineage. I would stay away from show pedigrees just out of principle. The parents temperament and your efforts at socializing will be much more important than any puppy personality testing but I would still do the Volhardt minus the umbrella because it's fun and kind of neat. I would focus on red flags with the breeder instead of with individual puppies in a litter. The OP covered this in great detail here, http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3471773#post401439706 efb; goddamn you dog nerds are fast.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:04
|
|
