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Did the chain tension, lost count of the quarter-turns on the adjuster. Got out a caliper to check and discovered that the left side was 5mm further back than the right. Oops. That's almost 3 full turns though, so I've absolutely no idea how it could have got so far out of true. I can only assume it's from the multiple removals and replacements of the chain last year by the dealer trying to track down the oil leak from the front sprocket (turns out it was actually coming from the crankcase breather thanks to a very slight over-fill - doh.) I never bothered checking it before now because it's not been noticeably crabbing or anything - by my very rough reckoning the back wheel would have only be about 2 degrees out so maybe that's small enough to not be noticeable. Maybe I'm just a really poo poo rider.
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Feb 10, 2013 01:54
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| # ? May 13, 2024 23:45 |
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I've always been under the impression that the adjuster is not to be trusted, and that the end-all and be-all is measuring from the center of the swing-arm mount to the center of the rear axle.
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Feb 10, 2013 03:00
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Decided to figure out what was up with my occasional stalling at idle. Recharging the battery didn't fix it, so next step is to check the pilot jets. Took off the carbs (which requires taking off the exhaust and airbox), cleaned out all the jets one by one. Thought maybe one pilot jet was a little clogged but the other one looked pretty perfect. Weird. All the other jets were pretty much squeaky clean, no goo in the float bowl or anything. Cleaned out the venturis and oiled the slides, wipe some of the staining off the throttle plate -- oh. Well look at that, the idle screws have slipped and closed up the idle throttle setting. That'd do it  Oh well, good thing I cleaned the pilots anyway -- they can never be too clean. Turn the idle screws out a turn or two. Put the carbs back together, reattach to the bike, reattach exhaust. Go inside to get my gear. Get dressed. Come outside and the bike is pissing gas all over the street. What?  poo poo, I probably put the floats back in upside down or something equally stupid. GO back inside, take off gear, switch back to workshop clothes. Dismount exhaust again. Dismount airboxes. Dismount carbs. Open up. No, the float is right side up. But aha -- the fuel valve is wobbling around in its seat! Pull it out and yep, the o-ring is falling apart. Guess it must have been just barely hanging on, and when I took it out and reinstalled it earlier it just gave out. Cut the o-ring off. Find the closest fit that I have in my kit -- it fits the valve seat perfectly, but is a little too thick to squeeze into the carb body. Shave it down a tiny bit with an exacto knife. Almost fits! Tap it in with a hammer and wooden dowel -- perfect. That's not going anywhere. Test the valve with the fuel on -- no leaks. Do the same thing for the other carb. Put the carbs back together. Reattach airboxes. Reassemble exhaust. Ride a couple of blocks, tune the idle back down to where it's supposed to be. Get on the freeway and give a good thrashing.All in all a good productive day. Started to break in my new gloves, and got to test my new H4 headlamp at night; even with the little 35w bulb that I'm stuck using until the new alternator arrives, it is SO much better. Much whiter light, significantly brighter, and a much more usable light pattern too. If you have an old bike that's still using incandescent bulbs, switch it over to a halogen unit as soon as you possibly can. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 04:37
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 Halogen bulbs are incandescent bulbs.But yes, modern halogen upgrades are well worth it as long as the setup is compatible.
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Feb 10, 2013 05:00
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Yeah, I did have some trouble getting the new reflector in place...it's deeper than the old unit, so the bulb connector sticks farther back, and Honda in their infinite wisdom decided that the headlight bucket was the best place to cram all the wiring. So it's a pretty tight fit in there now, but everything works. Still stuck with a 35 watt scooter-class bulb, but hopefully the new alternator will let me run 45 or even a standard automobile 55w (I've got all three waiting to try out).
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Feb 10, 2013 05:37
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Finally replaced the ignition on the turbo, also rigged up a modern fuse holder for the 30A main, good luck finding a fusible link thingy when that pops (it did when the ignition diarrhea-ed itself)
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Feb 10, 2013 06:17
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I messed around with some ECU reading software and discovered a PO or the tuner that took care of the bike at some point disabled the O2 sensor, so I've been running open loop all the time.
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Feb 10, 2013 10:55
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Safety Dance posted:I've always been under the impression that the adjuster is not to be trusted, and that the end-all and be-all is measuring from the center of the swing-arm mount to the center of the rear axle. Unless for some reason my swingarm is longer on one side than the other, a caliper measuring the adjuster length (and as a backup measuring from the inside of the axle to the back of the swingarm) is good enough.
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Feb 10, 2013 11:11
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SaNChEzZ posted:Finally replaced the ignition on the turbo, also rigged up a modern fuse holder for the 30A main, good luck finding a fusible link thingy when that pops (it did when the ignition diarrhea-ed itself) So the bike is rideable now? Reg'd up and ready to go? I will be leaving around the 23rd or the 24th!
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Feb 10, 2013 19:11
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XYLOPAGUS posted:So the bike is rideable now? Reg'd up and ready to go? It is! Gunna go on a short ride in a few. Maybe next weekend goon ride? E: went for said ride, things to do: Brakes, brakes, fluid then more brakes. Also plugs, air filter and poo poo. Will also do a valve adjustment, oil and final drive oil. Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 19:13
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The tripmaster switch for my bike that lets you change dash modes (and inc/dec the trip odometer) is like $80, unless you are willing to solder and hack together some switches then it costs about ten bucks. The only reason I wanted it is for the mode switching since the dash buttons are awful and have no feedback and are impossible to press by touch, but I figured I'd do all three buttons while I had it apart. With this done my next project is the ABS kill switch for the dirt, since the dashboard buttons (also used to turn off ABS) are so terrible.
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Feb 11, 2013 01:57
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Are they weatherproof?
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Feb 11, 2013 02:15
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slidebite posted:Are they weatherproof? With enough dielectric grease, anything is weatherproof 
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Feb 11, 2013 02:21
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Geirskogul posted:With enough dielectric grease, anything is weatherproof Exactly my approach! And if they fail, it's a nice excuse to buy those expensive HDB buttons.  Actually there are a lot of 990 doods with the same non weatherproof buttons that have yet to have one fail, so I guess it'll be okay.
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Feb 11, 2013 02:27
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Decided to figure out why the throttle was sticking on my cx650 finally. Traced the line from the grip down looking for kinks. There was a hose clamp barely getting in the way of the butterfly on the carb. Hyuck. So I pushed it out of the way and all is well. Hope to get it on the street this week, finally.
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Feb 11, 2013 04:49
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First wash of 2013! 
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Feb 11, 2013 06:26
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Cleaned the carb yesterday, which I've never done before. Found a little blockage in the idle jet, so I bet that will clear up the slight trouble I've had with starting. Hopefully I didn't screw this up. All those little pieces sure are intimidating!
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Feb 11, 2013 14:50
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rt4 posted:Cleaned the carb yesterday, which I've never done before. Found a little blockage in the idle jet, so I bet that will clear up the slight trouble I've had with starting. Hopefully I didn't screw this up. All those little pieces sure are intimidating! One carb? Imagine all the little pieces on four carbs.
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Feb 11, 2013 16:51
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Or six.
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Feb 11, 2013 17:28
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I removed the head off of my horizontal cylinder to remove a burr off of the exhaust valve stem. I noticed it when I was adjusting valves and couldn't get clearances. As it turns out, one of the keepers broke and caused the burr. It seems like it's a fairly common problem. The burr was ground off and valves adjusted. Well, everything removed/installed without a problem. I got the bike running and now I have a leak at the base between the cylinder and the case. So now I get to tear everything back down again and put it all back together in order to clean a gasket and apply some sealer. At least it's fairly simple procedure, just time consuming. So, what's the proper sealant? I have RTV red and high temperature copper. e: The bike is a 1999 Ducati Monster 900 Dellikose fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 11, 2013 17:40
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Install a fresh gasket, you should probably also use fresh head bolts if it's leaking, and check the manual if you should use copper sealant or not.
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Feb 11, 2013 18:50
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Yes, that is what you should do, if you can. If parts are not available (I had to restore an Italjet Casual 350 - less than 18 were sold in the United States because they're so lovely) and you're super-desperate, then a VERY THIN layer of copper RTV OR spray-on sealer is preferred. A Ducati Monster should have parts available, though.
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Feb 11, 2013 19:01
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Yes, the plan is to use a fresh gasket plus some sealant. It looks like the manual calls for Loctite 510 used sparingly. As for the head bolts, you mean replace the studs? Can these stretch over time?
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Feb 11, 2013 19:28
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Dellikose posted:Yes, the plan is to use a fresh gasket plus some sealant. They certainly do on the old CB750's I do not know if this is a thing on the Monster though.
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Feb 11, 2013 19:32
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A little digging found that around model year '95 or so a change was made to better studs. The old studs had a ridiculously high breakage rate. The reason for them breaking was because they were too brittle, so yes - they definitely stretch. I'll look into getting them replaced, thanks.
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Feb 11, 2013 19:38
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On Saturday, I went to reassemble the XS750's carburetors but was stalled by two missing pieces - a cap screw washer and a needle jet washer. I figure the latter might make a pretty big difference in how it ran so I ordered up replacements and they'll be here next week. I have no idea how they could have gone missing - I was meticulous about putting all the parts that came off into labeled baggies to make sure each piece goes back into the same carburetor...
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Feb 11, 2013 20:07
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clutchpuck posted:On Saturday, I went to reassemble the XS750's carburetors but was stalled by two missing pieces - a cap screw washer and a needle jet washer. I figure the latter might make a pretty big difference in how it ran so I ordered up replacements and they'll be here next week. You sure they're not stuck together? iirc they're pretty thin and have an affinity for each other. I've had this problem a couple times with the needle jet washers.
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Feb 12, 2013 05:23
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SaNChEzZ posted:It is! Gunna go on a short ride in a few. Maybe next weekend goon ride? I'm up for a ride this Saturday! Shoot me an email or post in the goon rides thread to see if we can get any more goons.
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Feb 12, 2013 16:30
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:You sure they're not stuck together? iirc they're pretty thin and have an affinity for each other. I've had this problem a couple times with the needle jet washers. Yeah, the needle jet in # 2 sits at a whole 'nother level than 1 and 3 without its washer. If it was missing before I opened it, that might explain why the linkages were way out of sync and it never ran well... Or I just dropped it on the floor and am an idiot.
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Feb 12, 2013 17:00
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Took the battery out of it and put it on the battery tender  Its drat cold here
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Feb 12, 2013 20:04
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On the weekend I was mucking around on a dirt track with my F700GS and stacked it, didn't scratch the bike but smacked my head pretty hard. Then when I got home I managed to snap off the right hand mirror just pushing the bike around the garage. it got caught on a windowsill.
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Feb 13, 2013 13:58
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theperminator posted:On the weekend I was mucking around on a dirt track with my F700GS and stacked it, didn't scratch the bike but smacked my head pretty hard. Done this before. The rage it fills you with is just completely disproportionate.
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Feb 13, 2013 20:45
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08 600RR rear shock into the 675.  
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Feb 15, 2013 21:42
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The 675 doesnt come with a better rear shock from the factory than the CBR does?
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Feb 15, 2013 21:46
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Nope, especially the 06-08 ones. It's a cheap ($40) and not well known at all upgrade. My stock shock also had 30k miles on it and an Eibach 550lb spring.
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Feb 15, 2013 21:50
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Moved my rearsets up a position.. What's wrong with the stock shock on the 675? Too much compression?
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Feb 16, 2013 01:04
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xd posted:
I'd like to know this as well.
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Feb 16, 2013 06:24
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http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51979quote:1. The stock spring is not linear. So for all those that claim it is, you're incorrect. From 10mm to 25mm of compression, it's an avg of 11.5KGF/mm. From 25mm to 40mm of compression it's an avg of 12.1KGF/mm. From 40mm to 60mm it's an avg of 12.9KGF/mm. See charts below, not even close to being linear. That and mine had 30k on it. $40 on a 600RR rear shock taken off to install an Ohlins on a new track bike is a drat bargain.
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Feb 16, 2013 06:46
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More "for" my ride than "to" it: Finished up (v1, anyway) the CAD for the little handlebar mount mini-voltmeter I've been working on. Gonna start out with a 3D print for testing, and if that works, develop this into a CNC'd aluminum housing. Nice and small and unobtrusive -- the whole thing is 1.6 inches across at its widest point. The voltmeter board is this guy from Adafruit if you're interested in doing the same thing.
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Feb 16, 2013 20:22
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| # ? May 13, 2024 23:45 |
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Sagebrush posted:More "for" my ride than "to" it: Don't get me wrong, I think this is great, but what for? Is your bike so electrically unreliable that you need something like this?
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Feb 16, 2013 20:24
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