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Dielectric posted:I wouldn't. The TS has those horrible stamped tables, probably direct drive too. The jointer is on a really weird awkward stand with a joke of a fence. I'm guessing 1/2HP motors on the jointer and BS, not sure how bad that is on a jointer but that's pretty wimpy for a BS. The BS looks similar to one my dad had, workable but not great. I don't know, its not like I'm doing anything heavy duty here, I'm just starting out. I could build a new stand/fence for the jointer if I really needed one. It just seems like such a bargain, three tools for a little more than I was planning to spend on the table saw alone.
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Feb 4, 2013 17:12
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I might disagree. If you have nothing and your needs are modest, that's a lot of potential for $250 especially if he's willing to come down $50. Because if your budget is in the $250 range, every tablesaw in that price range will have big tradeoffs (unless you luck into a ~10 year old Delta, Jet, or Powermatic contractor saw). With this set you can learn on it and later sell it for probably close to what you paid so it's unlikely to cost you anything. If I wanted a saw in the $250 and under price range, I would buy this. http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3590681939.html Also I would buy this in a minute just to restore that old Craftsman. http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/3584214557.html I would pull the motor on the radial arm saw and haul it to the metal scrapyard.
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Feb 4, 2013 21:31
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Super Waffle posted:I don't know, its not like I'm doing anything heavy duty here, I'm just starting out. I could build a new stand/fence for the jointer if I really needed one. It just seems like such a bargain, three tools for a little more than I was planning to spend on the table saw alone. My Grandfather has that tablesaw and made his entire living as a woodworker and finish carpenter with it. He still uses it to this day, every day. I have the heavier duty craftsman saw with the cast iron wings. Other than the wings there is no difference. I see them sell for about $125 around here. They are NOT direct drive. Mine has a 3hp motor, I think his is 2 1/2 or 3. I have that bandsaw too. When it is tuned up it works like an absolute dream. I've seen several of them sell for $150. You are correct they have a 1/2 hp motor. I think if you can get all three for $200-$250 and they are in decent shape, then you are getting a pretty fair deal. mds2 fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 21:48
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I know a few other people here are on owwm.org; anyone else have trouble accessing the site from a browser other than IE? With Chrome and Firefox only about half the threads are clickable. Edit: apparently changing the default text size in the browser breaks it wormil fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Feb 9, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 22:30
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 3 different hardware stores, 3 different sales, everything for under $100 total. I was worried about the sawzall being so cheap but so far it's been awesome.
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Feb 9, 2013 13:28
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omgitstheinternet posted:
Harbor Freight can be pretty hit-or-miss. You might get something that'll be great for years, or it might break after a month. Some of their hand tools are decent though, and they carry a lifetime warranty. Personally I'll buy stuff there if I need it for what I'm working on right now and don't foresee needing it again, and only if it doesn't use electricity.
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Feb 11, 2013 22:03
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stubblyhead posted:only if it doesn't use electricity. Seconded. Make sure you keep a fire extinguisher handy with that not-Sawzall.
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Feb 11, 2013 22:11
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Add "not precision" to the list too. 8mm socket? gently caress that noise, I'm buying something made by a real company because I want to unscrew things, not turn 8mm hex heads into 8mm round heads. 30mm socket? It takes a god drat idiot to make a 30mm socket that will actually round something off due to sloppy tolerances, so yeah, I'll use one. Engine hoist and hydraulic jack? Jackstands? Sure.
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Feb 12, 2013 01:57
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Finally. For the last 6 months I've been trying to buy an inexpensive drill press. The really good Craigslist deals are gone in a minute (sometimes literally) and the okay deals are gone by the time I can meet up. Twice I even went to Harbor Freight and both times they were sold out. There must be a serious drill press shortage in my area. Anyway a guy on the local woodworking site tells me he has a Jet from before they were called Jet which I assumed was BS but turns out he wasn't BS'ing. Orbit Machine Tools, model 1412, Taiwan, from the 70's or early 80's. 1/2 HP, 8/4 A, 110/220 V, 1/2" chuck, 5 speeds, weighs a ton There is a little surface rust but overall the machine runs very well and drills straight clean holes. Later I'll smear a little Naval Jelly on that column to remove the remaining rust. Jet imported these presses in the 70's & early 80's and possibly later bought the company, I'm not clear on that, maybe one of you know. I'm told they still sell parts but the model # doesn't come up on their website.   After cleaning, I made this wood handle to slide over the original fixed metal handle. Unfortunately the original is some odd size like 11/16 or probably 17-18 mm but a 3/4" bit was the closest on hand so the handle is really loose but still an improvement. Later I'll try to shim it. [edited typo] 
wormil fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 03:25
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I see a lathe over there! You just need a boring tool.
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Feb 13, 2013 04:45
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So I got a bit of a dilemma that I hope ya'll can help out with. I have a few hundred bucks that is begging to be spent on tools for the shop. I have a lot of tools that I wouldn't mind upgrading but thinking about it the one thing that I keep having issues with is lack of decent clamps. I have a few of the pipe clamp ones that I saved from rusting away in my mom's garage but only have a couple. Then I've got some cheap plastic ones from hd or such. So what would you guys recommend? They will be used in general woodworking, anything from cabinets, boxes, frames, chairs, tables, etc.. I'm not worried about corner clamps, those I have a few of. Just trying to decide which to invest in, pipe clamps, go with quick clamps or bar clamps, gahh.. Basically if you had $300 ish to outfit shop with clamps what would you choose for best overall usability?
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Feb 13, 2013 05:08
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C-clamps and tons of them! Can't go wrong with the classics and they're useful for almost everything. If you're doing lots of woodworking, Jorgensen clamps are good too.
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Feb 13, 2013 05:53
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Yea I was thinking of just going old school with a bunch of jorgensen pipe clamps. Heck that is basically all my dad ever used while he was a GC and cabinet maker. I hadn't thought of getting a bunch of C-clamps though, that is a good idea too..
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Feb 13, 2013 06:11
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I say a bench vise is the best clamp you will ever need. 
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Feb 13, 2013 06:38
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Have a look here for clamp advice: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-big-squeeze/ I mostly use F-style clamps in 6, 12 and 24 inch lengths, and a few 4 foot parallel clamps. I'd get more smaller parallel clamps but they are expensive. Wood-screw clamps are handy enough to have a few of too. Quick-clamps are very handy too but they get used more for shop projects than woodworking. I hear the newer Irwin quick-clamps are much better at clamping pressure.
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Feb 13, 2013 06:54
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Sagebrush posted:I see a lathe over there! You just need a boring tool. There are no boring tools in my shop.Actually I tried boring out the first handle (that was my 2nd try in the picture) but I don't have a steady rest and my hand apparently wasn't steady enough. It's one of those things where I can always make a better one down the road once I get more bits or a build a steady rest. That little non-turning metal handle is annoying to use, just like the one on my lathe tailstock. Which reminds me, I need to make a new wooden handle for my tailstock. When I first got the lathe I just drilled out a dowel and stuck it on there.
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Feb 13, 2013 08:24
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Still looking for a table saw - trying to wait until spring as suggested by this thread but I keep checking Craigslist. I'm assuming this isn't a great deal since everyone here seems to be able to find older craftsmans for under $100. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/fod/3607954047.html
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Feb 13, 2013 18:44
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Daggerpants posted:Still looking for a table saw - trying to wait until spring as suggested by this thread but I keep checking Craigslist. I'm assuming this isn't a great deal since everyone here seems to be able to find older craftsmans for under $100. I don't know if it's a "great deal" but it's probably a decent saw... dual voltage, 1.5hp and cast iron top. Research the warranty, I think the early Rigids had a lifetime warranty regardless of owner. Don't get too caught up on stationary tool prices, the difference of a few dollars will mean little if you keep the machine for a decade or more. I think you should go check it out.
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Feb 13, 2013 19:37
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wormil posted:I don't know if it's a "great deal" but it's probably a decent saw... dual voltage, 1.5hp and cast iron top. Research the warranty, I think the early Rigids had a lifetime warranty regardless of owner. Don't get too caught up on stationary tool prices, the difference of a few dollars will mean little if you keep the machine for a decade or more. I think you should go check it out. I emailed the guy, I also found the manual for that particular saw on the Ridgid website and the warranty states: "How long coverage lasts This warranty lasts for the lifetime of the RIDGID® tool. Warranty coverage ends when the product becomes unusable for reasons other than defects in workmanship or material."
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Feb 13, 2013 21:52
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I'd pull the trigger on that saw. It's a decent saw, for a decent price. If you have the funds, keep searching craigslist looking for the "Holy Grail" of table saws, and if you get it, you can sell the Rigid. Until then, it will be a decent saw that will (with a good blade) give you good results. If you want, you can always throw a new fence on it and a link belt to get the most out of it. It shouldn't be hard to flip it either should you upgrade. First thing I would do would be to take off the legs and mount the unit on a 3/4" plywood box with a removable drawer for sawdust. Have the unit mounted on heavy duty casters with brakes as well. I have a setup like that with my old Craftsman, and it makes things so much easier for moving and dust collection.
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Feb 14, 2013 20:17
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I discovered that Craftsman doesn't even make tape measures anymore. I guess they needed more shelf space for their Super Adjustable Ratcheting Flex Full Polish Cross Force wrenches?
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Feb 15, 2013 04:17
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Don't forget, those super adjustable ratcheting flex full polish cross force wrenches also have a direction toggle, fit 8 different types of bolts (square, hex, 12 point, e-torx, spline...) and round them all off equally well in both directions! 
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Feb 15, 2013 04:23
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Cross Force: they twisted the handle to give us a better surface to hit with a sledge.  kid sinister posted:I discovered that Craftsman doesn't even make tape measures anymore. I guess they needed more shelf space for their Super Adjustable Ratcheting Flex Full Polish Cross Force wrenches? They still do, look in the Carpentry section instead of Automotive. Or possibly your local Sears is horrible.
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Feb 15, 2013 06:30
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Well technically they never made tape measures as Sears has always been in the re-branding business.  But yeah, I checked their website and not a single Craftsman tape measure.
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Feb 15, 2013 08:33
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I've always been rather partial to Stanleys myself.
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Feb 15, 2013 10:44
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stubblyhead posted:I've always been rather partial to Stanleys myself. Maybe that's what I was thinking of.
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Feb 15, 2013 13:44
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stubblyhead posted:I've always been rather partial to Stanleys myself. I purchased a Husky 3 pack some years back that had 35, 25, and 10 foot tapes in it. The 35 crapped out after two years of abuse and I took it back to Home Depot and they gave a 40' in exchange no questions asked as they don't sell 35s individually apparently. The 40 works great after 3 years for measuring slabs and other dirty construction work and I know that when it inevitably fails I'll just swap it for another one.
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Feb 15, 2013 18:05
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A buddy of mine just got this kit for work: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203266851/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ridgid&storeId=10051#.UR5oyaUqY3Q He's liking it so far after using it for installs over the last day or so (lots of self-tap screws). I'm looking at it for home use for light-duty craft projects and fixing stuff. Does anyone have any warnings about the product or the pricing?
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Feb 15, 2013 18:23
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I have several Stanley tapes, a Craftsman, a Lufkin, and a number of other brands; really I notice very little difference that I could pin down to brand. The Stanleys I use the most just because they are in the sizes I prefer - a small 10' that fits in my pocket and 16' w/metric for my shop.
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Feb 15, 2013 19:30
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CuddleChunks posted:A buddy of mine just got this kit for work: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203266851/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ridgid&storeId=10051#.UR5oyaUqY3Q I have had the set with the hammer drill for about a year. I like it, but I think a bearing on the impact driver has started to crap out (it's noisy). I also recently just got the 18v ridgid jobmax and it's pretty great. It's much better than the 12v. Remind him to register for the lifetime service agreement.
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Feb 15, 2013 19:38
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kastein posted:Add "not precision" to the list too. This is a fair point too. While I trust the plastic caliper I bought there for $2.99 to show that I need a 5/16" socket instead of a 1/4" one, I don't put any stock whatsoever in what the vernier scale shows. High-precision calipers are expensive for a reason. wormil posted:I have several Stanley tapes, a Craftsman, a Lufkin, and a number of other brands; really I notice very little difference that I could pin down to brand. The Stanleys I use the most just because they are in the sizes I prefer - a small 10' that fits in my pocket and 16' w/metric for my shop. I think I mostly use them because that's the kind my dad always used, and it has a comfortable familiar feeling to it.
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Feb 15, 2013 20:02
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dyne posted:I have had the set with the hammer drill for about a year. I like it, but I think a bearing on the impact driver has started to crap out (it's noisy). Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm gonna pull the trigger on the set.
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Feb 15, 2013 21:04
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CuddleChunks posted:A buddy of mine just got this kit for work: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-203266851/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=ridgid&storeId=10051#.UR5oyaUqY3Q Ridgid is honestly one of the worst mid-grade brands for drivers. I've seen a lot of complaints about the batteries (yeah you get free replacements, but if you're constantly having to have them replaced then it's a hassle). You'd be a lot better off with Ryobi if you're looking for a cheap 18V kit, they sell a 18V drill/impact kit for like $129. Ugliness is the only complaint I consistently see about Ryobi, for the most part people have had good experiences with actual usage. Makita and Milwaukee are generally regarded as the best among mid-grade brands (and are pretty much 95% of what you'd see on construction sites - I'm out at a massive data center installation right now and all I see are red and blue boxes), with DeWalt not far behind. Of all the brands of drivers that I own (Milwaukee, Makita and DeWalt), Makita is definitely my favorite. Also if you're just doing light duty stuff around the house, there's really not any reason for you to get 18V drivers. DeWalt's 12V MAX line is really pretty great imo, and you can get a drill, impact and reciprocating saw kit for $179 from Home Depot right now.
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Feb 15, 2013 22:55
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Noctone posted:Ridgid is honestly one of the worst mid-grade brands for drivers. I've seen a lot of complaints about the batteries (yeah you get free replacements, but if you're constantly having to have them replaced then it's a hassle). You'd be a lot better off with Ryobi if you're looking for a cheap 18V kit, they sell a 18V drill/impact kit for like $129. Ugliness is the only complaint I consistently see about Ryobi, for the most part people have had good experiences with actual usage. Makita and Milwaukee are generally regarded as the best among mid-grade brands (and are pretty much 95% of what you'd see on construction sites - I'm out at a massive data center installation right now and all I see are red and blue boxes), with DeWalt not far behind. Of all the brands of drivers that I own (Milwaukee, Makita and DeWalt), Makita is definitely my favorite. I don't have any negative opinion of rigid but I do agree with everything else. Ryobi is fine for home use. 12V Max is great but limited to just a few tools right now. Milwaukee has 70+ tools in their 12V line by comparison including cordless dremel, and cordless oscillating multi-tool which are fantastic DIY tools. Also keep an eye on Milwaukee's upcoming brushless 12V drills and drivers coming out any day now which come pretty close to the specs of 18V tools. But if you like the rigid go for it.
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Feb 16, 2013 01:32
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Yeah that's a really good point, and the M12 line is absurdly cheap right now with M12 FUEL getting ready to hit stores. I think I remember seeing a drill/impact/multi-tool kit going for $179.
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Feb 16, 2013 01:56
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Noctone posted:Of all the brands of drivers that I own (Milwaukee, Makita and DeWalt), Makita is definitely my favorite. We have an old Makita 9.6 but it's the best driver I've ever used, just well designed and engineered. I can only imagine the new ones are even better.
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Feb 16, 2013 04:22
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Noctone posted:Yeah that's a really good point, and the M12 line is absurdly cheap right now with M12 FUEL getting ready to hit stores. I think I remember seeing a drill/impact/multi-tool kit going for $179. Yeah you're right. That's the kit to have in my oppinion and a fantastic deal compared to geting the tools alone. I feel bad for a friend who recently got the impact alone for $150 I think. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202993983/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=m12+kit&storeId=10051#.UR_DKaE_-x0 EDIT: Oh and that's the hammer drill tool. Really a good deal. Hammer is nice for masonry like hanging a shelf on your inside foundation wall for example. Hmm...true about the prices, do I need anyhting else? No I really don't. Though I might give some thought to trading in the 18V impact for the 12V fuel impact. Only a small decrease in torque (which I probably don't need anyway) but the small size will generally serve me much better. Waiting for prices and tool-only availability. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 18:37
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stubblyhead posted:I've always been rather partial to Stanleys myself. Well, as a matter of fact, Sears offered to exchange my old Craftsman for a Stanley of the same length. We'll see if this one's brake doesn't... break.
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Feb 16, 2013 20:51
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Depending on what you are looking to spend, the jump from Stanley to the Stanley Fat Max makes a world of difference. However, if you can get your hands on a Stabila tape measure, they are well worth the money. I have one at work, and it can stand out over 6 feet without bending. It's dual read (measurements on both sides of the blade) in English & Metric. My favorite features are the grit on the hook(so it doesn't slip off what you are measuring) and the shock absorber on the case, so if you let the blade return too fast, it doesn't bend or break the hook off. http://www.amazon.com/Stabila-30327-27-Feet-Tape-Measure/dp/B0061ZZRCO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1361045282&sr=1-1&keywords=stabila+tape
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Feb 16, 2013 21:18
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asdf32 posted:Yeah you're right. That's the kit to have in my oppinion and a fantastic deal compared to geting the tools alone. I feel bad for a friend who recently got the impact alone for $150 I think. Some of the bare M12 FUEL tools have been available for a couple of weeks now (online only, though). HD is selling the impact for $119.
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Feb 16, 2013 22:05
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