|
No kidding, that thing is indeed quite a beast. Also: I want an old fashioned top now 
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:14 |
|
|
The tool rest looked like 3 pieces of wood joined with rabbets. I would liked to have seen him start with rough stock because I bet there is practically no vibration in that thing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 20:31
|
|
|
pageerror404 posted:You never find them on craigslist. They are on ebay but I don't buy them there. They are really expensive and you can't truly inspect them. I would like to see that Stanley 5 1/4 plane, and thanks for the info as I will be checking out my local antique mall this weekend!
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 21:03
|
|
|
johnnyonetime posted:I would like to see that Stanley 5 1/4 plane, and thanks for the info as I will be checking out my local antique mall this weekend! Here is the Stanley. The only thing even remotely wrong is a tiny bit of japanning loss, but even that is way better than they normally have. It even has a full-length blade.  As a bonus, here is a Type 2 Millers Falls #14 (equivalent to Stanley #5) that I just found pretty cheap. I still need to clean it up. It was well greased before long-term storage so it is in amazing condition. Most you find will not be quite this good though.  While you're there definitely look for Stanleys and Millers Falls, also Sargent if you find them (VBM are their higher line and are really good). Avoid basically all other brands unless they are dirt cheap. Most of them are decent user planes, but not collectable and almost never worth as much as the vendor wants for them. Keep your eye open for a Stanley Bedrock, collectors pay an absurd amount of money for them, you basically can sell it on ebay and buy a new Lie-Nielsen or a whole set of Bailey planes. I have only ever found 1 of them and it was literally broken in half... it bummed me out. Have fun
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
anyone know of a good vintage block plane that's worth having? i would ideally like something with a mouth that can be adjusted without touching the frog (my bailey/stanley has this, just a screw behind the frog) - would a regular old stanley vintage plane fit the bill or will i need something more specialized?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 04:45
|
|
|
An old Stanley is what I use. Just like you described. Paid $9 for it and it works great.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 05:20
|
|
|
mds2 posted:Sanding sandpaper? Is that like sending the new guy to pick up a cabinet makers triangle? I usually go with the stud stretcher.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:23
|
|
|
Guitarchitect posted:anyone know of a good vintage block plane that's worth having? i would ideally like something with a mouth that can be adjusted without touching the frog (my bailey/stanley has this, just a screw behind the frog) - would a regular old stanley vintage plane fit the bill or will i need something more specialized? Yeah, a Stanley 9 1/2 will do that. They made millions of them over the course of 100 years so you should be able to find one in good shape for cheap. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 15:21
|
|
|
I was given a miter saw by my brothers in October for my birthday. Last night I finally got around to making a dedicated station for it. I'm about 99% done. Still need to cut stop blocks and add a tape to the top of the fence. Sorry for the crappy picture. My wife had already parked her car on "her half" of the garage. I made a "homemade" track on the fence, which was incredibly easy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 16:04
|
|
|
wormil posted:Sanding seems like it should be the easiest thing about using a lathe but I'm having trouble. It seems no matter how much I sand, a few grooves show up. The grooves aren't there before I sand and they are a little larger/deeper than the sandpaper grit. I progress from 80 grit to 100/150/220/320. I'm no turning expert, but for finishing you could try a handful of sawdust pressed against the piece rather than 320 grit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 17:38
|
|
|
I find that sawdust doesn't do much to really sand or polish, just getting a finer grit sandpaper is more effective. However, a handful of sawdust works GREAT for burnishing a piece. Gotta be careful not to actually burn it, but you can give it a nice golden brown really easily. Just be sure to use the right kind of dust. Specifically, something no darker and no harder than the piece you're burnishing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 17:40
|
|
|
SopWATh posted:I'm no turning expert, but for finishing you could try a handful of sawdust pressed against the piece rather than 320 grit. Burnishing is an interesting subject (to me), it seems to have fallen out of favor and I rarely if ever see regular turners do it. An editorial (maybe in Popular Woodworking?) stated it was old fashioned and has been replaced with 320 grit sandpaper. I find that burnishing with sawdust gives the wood a nice soft, satin, finish that looks much better than 320 grit which really isn't that smooth on a turned piece. Even at 1000 grit, burnishing adds a little something extra. I just use the sawdust from the project itself if there's enough or otherwise grab a handful from the bucket under my lathe. BTW, I turned some padauk yesterday and started with 100 grit (I'm out of 120) and the sanding turned out much better. The 80 grit I had bought by mistake (meant to buy 120) and so I was using it. If anyone saw the wood handle I made for my (new to me) drill press I found a better solution. John Heisz replaced his metal handle with a longer threaded rod for which he made a wooden handle. I might try that if I have a threaded rod the right size.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 19:13
|
|
|
I finished my cookbook holder, my girlfriend loved it. I used dowels to hold everything together, also used dowels on the moving parts,. I put a small brass chain on the back to hold the legs in place when open.  
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2013 03:02
|
|
|
Well done. Oak with mahogany stain?
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2013 04:19
|
|
|
My apologies if this has been touched on before, it's just a massive thread. Any advice on stripping wood? We're taking all the paint off of our mantles and this is our first stab at doing something like this, so we've been brushing on Klean-Strip KS3, letting it bubble, and scrapping it with plastic scrapers. It's taking a long time, but from what I gather that's just the name of the game here? It's taking multiple applications, and it looks like there's another layer under the paint that almost seems like some sort of adhesive. I don't know if that's just from the chemical reaction though. I was thinking of running to Home Depot and trying out the spray version only because the paste is really messy and was curious if that was as effective / easier. I know I should have taken better pics but well, I was super tired. Before:  Progress so for (have don't about 5 applications of stripper): 
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2013 14:55
|
|
|
The Dave posted:Any advice on stripping wood? We're taking all the paint off of our mantles and this is our first stab at doing something like this, so we've been brushing on Klean-Strip KS3, letting it bubble, and scrapping it with plastic scrapers. I've had good luck with Citristrip, used it a few times in my house for getting paint off of door jambs. I think the trick is to let it sit longer than you think you should. Here's what I did: 1. Brush it on thick with a lovely paintbrush that you'll never use for anything else. No foam brushes, they will melt. 2. Once everything is coated, cover it with cling wrap. 3. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. I let mine go for 24. 4. After it's done marinating, start scraping. I had a couple of jambs that had at least four or five layers of paint and it easily peeled off all the way down to the bare wood after sitting overnight. Little bit of sanding afterwards and I was ready for primer. And don't let the "safer" bullshit on the label fool you, the fumes will still burn your nose and eyes while it's working, so crack a window if possible.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2013 17:23
|
|
|
The best find so far. A Stanley Bedrock 604 1/2 for $15. Time to restore it and resell for %1700 markup.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 02:26
|
|
|
Any recommendations for circular saws in the midrange price bracket? Cant quite afford a festool yet, and Im in Australia to complicate things. Thinking about $300-$500.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 03:53
|
|
|
The Dave posted:Any advice on stripping wood? Have you tried a heat gun? Sometimes it can work wonders... and it's much more nose-friendly than chemicals
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 13:07
|
|
|
I haven't because it makes me a little nervous like I might burn the wood because I'm an idiot, and I don't have one. Right now I'm trying the cling wrap method, but I'm not sure how air tight my application was. Guess ill find out when I scrape tonight!
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 13:17
|
|
|
The Dave posted:I haven't because it makes me a little nervous like I might burn the wood because I'm an idiot, and I don't have one. It doesn't have to be completely airtight, just enough to keep most of the moisture in to let it work longer. So long as you smooshed the cling wrap up against the stripper, you'll be fine. EDIT: After re-reading that last sentence, it sounds like one of Charlie Sheen's nights out on the town. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 16:48
|
|
|
I made a new cross cut sled this last weekend. This one is a HUGE improvement over my last one. Now I cant wait to build jigs that ride on this jig. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2013 16:57
|
|
|
If you had a 12/4 hunk of mahogany, 12" wide and not quite 4' long, what would you do with it? I grabbed one from an old barn (along with some nice old oak 1x10s), and am both perplexed and intimidated by it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 19:02
|
|
|
Stavrogin posted:If you had a 12/4 hunk of mahogany, 12" wide and not quite 4' long, what would you do with it? I grabbed one from an old barn (along with some nice old oak 1x10s), and am both perplexed and intimidated by it. Table legs?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:06
|
|
|
17 miles of bookmatched veneer?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:07
|
|
|
mds2 posted:Table legs? I'd feel bad using it as legs, when I have nothing fancy to use as a top.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
Stavrogin posted:I'd feel bad using it as legs, when I have nothing fancy to use as a top. By some more mahogany to use for the rest of it. The project that you make doesn't only have to consist of this piece of wood.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:13
|
|
|
Total noob question. I bought a $140 cardboard-soundboard harp kit. They have a good reputation as a second harp/travelling harp/kid's harp. Here's the wood:  A friend suspects it's lauan.The instructions say to finish the wood with What would you suggest? I'm thinking 3 sanding passes 100/180/240 grit, then wet-sand with some sort of oil finish, whatever I can find at the local Woodcraft. I got this by Googling; I'm hoping people who actually do woodworking will have a better idea of what's appropriate for a first project, one that should not be heirloom quality. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Feb 20, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:41
|
|
|
85 grit is very coarse, yeah. Also, 85? That's weird. I don't think I've ever seen 85. Usually it goes 60/80/100/120/150/etc. Where did you buy this kit, is it international or something? Also, yeah, California is apparently afraid of everything that isn't RO water. Maybe you could order some danish oil or tung oil or something online? Or maybe you could find some shellac flakes, that's basically just crushed up bugs that you mix with everclear. For most finishes, there's not much need to go beyond 180. In fact, some finishes will often say do NOT go over 180. Then a light application of steel wool or some similar abrasive to smooth the finish between coats. I'd probably avoid putting, say, a polyeurethane on it, which is what you're likely to find at home depot/lowes, but that might just be me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
I'm sorry, that was a thinko. It was 80 grit. Edit: And the way I figured out you can't get tung oil in California was ordering online; all the stores I can find explicitly won't ship to California and Oregon.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 21:09
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I'm sorry, that was a thinko. It was 80 grit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
Frogmanv2 posted:Any recommendations for circular saws in the midrange price bracket? Cant quite afford a festool yet, and Im in Australia to complicate things. Thinking about $300-$500. Circular saw for 3-5 hundred? Am I missing something? A good milwaukee or dewalt is 120ish. I personally go with cordless everything and have the milwaukee m18 circular. It's $120 for the bare tool or quite a bit more with the (large) battery and charger.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 21:40
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I live in Northern California, and apparently tung oil, as well as Watco Danish Oil, can't legally be sold here? My parents live in NYS and there are some chemicals/pesticides they can't legally buy/have shipped directly to them. I can get them shipped to NC, though. A kraft paper wrapping and a few bucks shipping later, they'll ship to New York just fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 21:47
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:Circular saw for 3-5 hundred? Am I missing something? A good milwaukee or dewalt is 120ish. I personally go with cordless everything and have the milwaukee m18 circular. It's $120 for the bare tool or quite a bit more with the (large) battery and charger. I've never had any trouble at all with my 18v dewalt circ saw, and it's seen quite a bit of use.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 21:48
|
|
|
Im That One Guy posted:I live in California and I've had no problem ordering from this place: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html Weirdly, Woodcrafters had their brands on the shelf. I snapped a pint of tung oil up. Anybody got hints on keeping the leftover oil? If I fill a half-pint pickle (say) bottle up to the top and screw the lid on, will that work?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 00:32
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:Circular saw for 3-5 hundred? Am I missing something? Frogmanv2 posted:Im in Australia I have never seen a dewalt, milwaukee or festool in a store. We get ryobi, bosch, ozito, makita and other generic/rebadges. I could order them in, probably, but without knowing much about circular saws I would be guessing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 00:42
|
|
|
If those are your only choices, I'd be most likely to trust the bosch. Far, far less likely to trust the ryobi. Makita used to be great, I don't know how they are these days, probably still good. Never heard of ozito.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 02:11
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:If those are your only choices, I'd be most likely to trust the bosch. Far, far less likely to trust the ryobi. Makita used to be great, I don't know how they are these days, probably still good. Never heard of ozito. Ozito is the poo poo level entry disposable stuff. Was looking at a Makita, might as well go for that then.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 02:34
|
|
|
Stavrogin posted:If you had a 12/4 hunk of mahogany, 12" wide and not quite 4' long, what would you do with it? I grabbed one from an old barn (along with some nice old oak 1x10s), and am both perplexed and intimidated by it. Completely jealous. What about a serving tray? Coat rack? iPad/magazine holder for cooking? Lumberjocks should also have a ton of inspiration for you.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 03:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:14 |
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:Weirdly, Woodcrafters had their brands on the shelf. I snapped a pint of tung oil up. http://www.bloxygen.com/ dude. pretty sure it's just argon in a can. i've seen people use propane or (uuugghh) acetylene but i'd be afraid of explosions.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 07:20
|
|
