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Just use a john guest fitting sold at any home depot. http://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-Sp...+guest+fittings
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Feb 1, 2013 23:45
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My shower is kind of lazily plumbed - there's an overhead rain shower head, and also a hand shower that comes out of a supply elbow on the wall that is integrated with what I had originally assumed was a diverter. It turns out that the hot/cold mixture is sent to both the overhead shower head and the hand shower, and the "diverter" is just a shut off switch for the hand shower to allow 100% of the water to go to the shower head. At best I can get 50% to each showerhead, but not 100% to the hand shower (very first world problem, I know). I don't want to rip down the walls and tiles to install a proper diverter, so would it be safe to install a flow control/shut off valve before the overhead shower head? If I accidentally leave the water at full pressure, and close both the shutoff valves to the handshower and overhead shower, will something bad happen?
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Feb 3, 2013 09:03
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Nevermind a bottle of draino down the vent worked.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 19:18
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I pulled up my toilet today because my son threw a toothbrush down it and I couldn't fish it out. Put a new wax ring on and realized that the closet bolt on the right was pulling through the flange somehow? I tipped the toilet up and made sure the closet bolt was in the track and I felt along the track to make sure it wasnt chipped or broken and it didnt appear to be. I read on another forum where someone suggested to put a net on the bolt right above the flange thus securing the closet bolt to the flange and then proceeding as normal from there. Is that solution too gimmicky? Is there something else I should do? Call the landlord and let a real plumber sort it out?  Also, in general, are there any code issues in regard to what sort of material the water supply line to the toilet tank is made from? The toilet in question has a hard one (and its got a nasty crimp in in it to boot) and I think Id rather have a soft tube. One of the other toilets in my house does have a soft one. edit: I forgot to ask, am I going to have put a new wax ring on if I pull up the toilet all the way even though I just put a new one on?
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Feb 4, 2013 04:19
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vulturesrow posted:I pulled up my toilet today because my son threw a toothbrush down it and I couldn't fish it out. Put a new wax ring on and realized that the closet bolt on the right was pulling through the flange somehow? XmasGiftFromWife posted:Also use a marker to denote which part of the T bolt has the flange. This way when you seat the toiled you know that your T bolt hasn't turned (in which case tightening it would just pull it up through the wax.) I do not know if hard lines are still currently in code, but you can easily get a replacement braided cable at the store. measure so you don't have slack and curves/loops.
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Feb 4, 2013 15:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Just use a john guest fitting sold at any home depot. How does that fit on the threaded 1/4" fittings at the valve and at the fridge? Thanks for everyone's help. I ended up going with the standard compression fittings for 1/4" tubing (with plastic/vinyl ferrules - don't use brass, trust me on this), but as I said earlier, the little brass inserts just don't fit no matter how hard I try to get them in there. The PEX is more rigid than polyethylene, I guess. It's been several days with nary a drip from either end, which is pretty unusual for me on plumbing projects
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Feb 4, 2013 15:55
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King of the Cows posted:How does that fit on the threaded 1/4" fittings at the valve and at the fridge? Oops sorry I thought you just had to hook up to that 1/4 line. They do make a 1/4 x3/8 fitting with a washer that works great in this application. rawrr posted:My shower is kind of lazily plumbed - there's an overhead rain shower head, and also a hand shower that comes out of a supply elbow on the wall that is integrated with what I had originally assumed was a diverter. It turns out that the hot/cold mixture is sent to both the overhead shower head and the hand shower, and the "diverter" is just a shut off switch for the hand shower to allow 100% of the water to go to the shower head. At best I can get 50% to each showerhead, but not 100% to the hand shower (very first world problem, I know). Post a picture of this but you should just be able to replumb the diverter and it will work fine. vulturesrow posted:I pulled up my toilet today because my son threw a toothbrush down it and I couldn't fish it out. Put a new wax ring on and realized that the closet bolt on the right was pulling through the flange somehow? I tipped the toilet up and made sure the closet bolt was in the track and I felt along the track to make sure it wasnt chipped or broken and it didnt appear to be. Ya put a new wax ring, It's better safe then sorry and they are cheap. The time it will take to pull it again will cost you more time then its worth. And use a nut and washer and secure the toilet bolt to the flange and then put another nut and washer over the toilet when its in place. It makes it a ton easier.
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Feb 5, 2013 00:24
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We're looking to do a little remodeling in one of our bathrooms and I'm getting conflicting info on how difficult a job it would be to remove our current bathtub and replace it with a jet (water or air) tub. Right now we have a very basic tub/shower liner that is all one piece. It was put in when the house was built about 8 years ago. So we'd replace that big piece with the new bathtub then either put up a new liner piece above the tub or my wife was discussing tile (although after explaining to her all the steps I think she realized it's a lot more work than she expected). I don't really know what's under those liner pieces (drywall? bare wood?) and I've also heard those tubs can vary wildly as to how they're setup. On a side note, but still related, we have very low pressure on the hot water in the current tub in that bathroom only. The sink's pressure is fine. We have a slab foundation and I've heard sometimes as the house settles it can pinch the copper piping causing this, although I'd have no idea how to check that. There could also be debris or some type of blockage in there, but short of taking out the tub with the liner to get in there I wouldn't know how to check on that either. The tub has a single knob which starts cold and you turn all the way to get hot, so once you get to the warm area the pressure starts dropping and the hotter you make it the lower it goes until it's just barely a steady stream. So I'm trying to kill two birds with one stone here with this job. I'm definitely a novice but I have done electrical work on the house, replaced toilets, work on cars, etc so I do have some know how and always try to get as educated as possible before starting any job. Some places online say it's not a big job and others say it is, and I don't want to get to the point where our bathroom is pulled apart before I realize I'm in over my head and have to call someone in.
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Feb 5, 2013 04:23
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ChesterJT posted:We're looking to do a little remodeling in one of our bathrooms and I'm getting conflicting info on how difficult a job it would be to remove our current bathtub and replace it with a jet (water or air) tub. Right now we have a very basic tub/shower liner that is all one piece. It was put in when the house was built about 8 years ago. So we'd replace that big piece with the new bathtub then either put up a new liner piece above the tub or my wife was discussing tile (although after explaining to her all the steps I think she realized it's a lot more work than she expected). I don't really know what's under those liner pieces (drywall? bare wood?) and I've also heard those tubs can vary wildly as to how they're setup. With the right tools installing a tub isnt to hard. Though if you are a novice trying to adjust the trap so it fits the new one may be a pain for you. You'd save money if you removed the old tub and had a company come in and set the new one. I doubt they rolled copper in your house since its 8 years old. I mean they may have but more likely its pex. I'd first pull the shower cartridge and make sure nothing is stuck in it causing the issue.
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Feb 5, 2013 14:25
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I looked up the shower cartridge and it seemed simple enough but when I pulled my (Delta) stuff off I've got this, which doesn't look like any photo or video I found. and what looks like metal pipes as far as my eyes can see inside that hole.  Edit: Well damnit I just now found a youtube video of it, looks like that front piece screws off. Edit2: And I can't get it off, but excuse to buy a new tool! Edit3: VVV Yes that was the new tool I was planning on buying haha ChesterJT fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 19:36
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ChesterJT posted:I looked up the shower cartridge and it seemed simple enough but when I pulled my (Delta) stuff off I've got this, which doesn't look like any photo or video I found. Use a strap wrench on that metal ring. Sometimes they get stuck and if you use channel locks they just squeeze the ring and wont let it move.
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Feb 6, 2013 00:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya put a new wax ring, It's better safe then sorry and they are cheap. The time it will take to pull it again will cost you more time then its worth. Thanks to you and XmasGift for the feedback. I decided to call the pros in because I discovered I needed new tank bolts too and I wanted the water supply replaced. I was checking out their handiwork and I discovered that it looked like wax was squeezing out the back and pushing the grout. I'll post a picture at the end of the post but I have a couple concerns about this: 1. Why would wax be squeezing out? 2. I thought it was common practice to leave the back ungrouted/uncaulked so if you do have a leak or seepage underneath the toilet it has a place to drain to? Its hard to tell from the pic but it looks in person like they have some grout on that wax. I could be wrong though and I am going to check it again to be sure. 3. Should I just take a utility knife and cut the back portion away entirely? PS He said the flange looked fine; I mustve been letting the bolt turn somehow even though I was holding the top with a pair of pliers. Thanks for the tips regarding that though! 
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Feb 6, 2013 02:57
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vulturesrow posted:1. Why would wax be squeezing out? 1. Uhh, because it's wax... Wax rings are meant to be a "we don't know how big the gap is between the flange, toilet and floor, plus it needs to be waterproof" solution. A wax ring is meant to fill in any irregular gaps in between the flange and toilet. Think about it: there's no way to visually inspect the flange once the toilet is on it. Plus, think about how variable toilet locations are: rusty, broken flanges; cracked, broken tile; high tiles with shallow grout lines; floors that settled over decades while the flange stayed level (or vice versa); etc. 2. Caulking around toilets is mainly for keeping clean that unreachable part of the floor. I don't particularly like to do that because if you seal the perimeter of where the bowl meets the floor, then you lose your first clue that your wax ring is worn out when you see water leaking from underneath your toilet... If your caulk all around, then that water has to go somewhere else, namely, the floor underneath. That can lead to water damage which will require repairs beyond a plumber. 3. Go for it.
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Feb 6, 2013 04:36
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kid sinister posted:1. Uhh, because it's wax... Wax rings are meant to be a "we don't know how big the gap is between the flange, toilet and floor, plus it needs to be waterproof" solution. A wax ring is meant to fill in any irregular gaps in between the flange and toilet. Think about it: there's no way to visually inspect the flange once the toilet is on it. Plus, think about how variable toilet locations are: rusty, broken flanges; cracked, broken tile; high tiles with shallow grout lines; floors that settled over decades while the flange stayed level (or vice versa); etc. Thanks. I know the purpose of the wax, I was just a little surprised it would squeeze out that much. On closer inspection it looks like they did leave a gap in the grout in the back and that is where the wax squeezed out. They did replace the hard water supply line with a braided line as well which I was happy about, less chance of me bending it up accidentally if I have to pull it again, especially as it already had a pretty bad crimp in it to begin with.
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Feb 6, 2013 06:38
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vulturesrow posted:Thanks. I know the purpose of the wax, I was just a little surprised it would squeeze out that much. On closer inspection it looks like they did leave a gap in the grout in the back and that is where the wax squeezed out. They did replace the hard water supply line with a braided line as well which I was happy about, less chance of me bending it up accidentally if I have to pull it again, especially as it already had a pretty bad crimp in it to begin with. I disagree with the install. I've plumbed for enough time to never have a toilet wax ring push out the back. Depth doesnt mean to much. You have 2 options. A single wax ring or a tall one. If the single doesnt work put a tall one on it. Dont stack numerous and make it push out the back. And caulking around the back of the toilet in my opinion is a joke. Water takes the path of least resistance. So unless you completely seal the flange with a wax wring it will most likely leak through it first. And what is up with that caulk job that honestly looks like crap and the toilet seems atleast 3/8TH of an inch. Or its how he caulked it. I say call them back and tell them to fix it right. Tell them you don't want the same person who did the work the first time. Also how they caulked it they should have cleaned it up. They can wipe it with there finger and make the bead look nice and clean not just use the tube itself to apply it. edit : added more Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 05:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Use a strap wrench on that metal ring. Sometimes they get stuck and if you use channel locks they just squeeze the ring and wont let it move. Alright I'm back! Got myself a strap wrench and had the whole cartridge assembly apart. The first thing I saw was on the hot water side there were some very tiny rocks jammed in the little inlet. Here's a terrible mspaint job to show you:  Basically the black is the plastic piece and there's a rubber flap behind it inside the cartridge. In all four of the slits was a single tiny little rock. So I thought I had solved my problem and I popped all four out. I shook it a bit to make sure there weren't more rocks inside and it sounded fine. Put everything back together and same problem, low pressure for hot water. Then I tried flipping the cartridge over to see if then the cold water had low pressure just to completely rule out the cartridge as the problem and the cold was still fine, hot sucked. So I removed the whole assembly, popped a cooler down, and turned the water on hoping the pressure (which in general is very high for the house thankfully) would clear out any other debris in the line that might be there. The following picture and video shows how that went. Nothing else came out of the line. Not only that but the cold water was shooting out to the opposite wall and the hot water is just sort of rolling out. You can clearly see the difference:  Video of the flow So at this point I'm guessing I have a crimped pipe somewhere between the hot water heater and the cartridge hole there? I can't think of any other potential problem. Slab foundation so no real way to inspect all the pipes without some major work, or having a plumber come out with a pinhole camera he can shove down the pipe if such a thing even exists. But even if he finds the problem it's likely to be under several hundred pounds of house and concrete. 
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Feb 8, 2013 05:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:And caulking around the back of the toilet in my opinion is a joke. Water takes the path of least resistance. So unless you completely seal the flange with a wax wring it will most likely leak through it first. Is caulking the base a common practice? I usually never do unless there are shims involved and even then leave the back side open. Not sure if anyone here can answer this one, but here goes. This is some sort of pressure regulator valve in the boiler supply line. As you can see it's leaking from where top and bottom parts of the casing come together. Can anyone tell me whether I need a new gasket or replace the whole thing? Thanks 
Nitrox fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 06:04
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Nitrox posted:Is caulking the base a common practice? I usually never do unless there are shims involved and even then leave the back side open. The base is grouted, not caulked. It appears they did leave a gap in the back and that is where the wax is squeezing out and taking some grout from where the grout line ends. The property manager is coming out tomorrow to due the semi-annual inspection and I'm going to ask that they send another plumber out to inspect. No water leaks at least, although I did have to tighten up the new water supply line about a quarter turn on the tank end due to a very slow drip.
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Feb 8, 2013 06:33
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jackpot posted:What's it mean, and how can it be fixed, when a toilet is very...unforgiving? My wife and I are both fairly experienced at this, you'd think, but the upstairs toilet has a hell of a knack for getting clogged no matter how careful we are. I'm just wondering if there's something we can do to fix this, or test it to see what the problem is... Any ideas?
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Feb 8, 2013 19:10
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Nitrox posted:Not sure if anyone here can answer this one, but here goes. This is some sort of pressure regulator valve in the boiler supply line. As you can see it's leaking from where top and bottom parts of the casing come together. Can anyone tell me whether I need a new gasket or replace the whole thing? Thanks Eh, you would have to take it apart to tell if it either needs a new gasket or be replaced completely. It might not even be leaking from the gasket. As for getting a new gasket, you would either have to hit up the manufacturer, or improvise one out of a gasket rubber sheets. Even if you replace it completely, I would always carry a gasket rubber sheet anyway. That stuff has saved my rear end in a pinch a few times.
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Feb 9, 2013 03:08
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ChesterJT posted:Alright I'm back! Got myself a strap wrench and had the whole cartridge assembly apart. The first thing I saw was on the hot water side there were some very tiny rocks jammed in the little inlet. Here's a terrible mspaint job to show you: You may have more debree in it. Like those little rocks you found. Try blowing a compressor into the line. Turn the water on and plug the cold side of the valve to force water out of the hot side. vulturesrow posted:The base is grouted, not caulked. It appears they did leave a gap in the back and that is where the wax is squeezing out and taking some grout from where the grout line ends. The property manager is coming out tomorrow to due the semi-annual inspection and I'm going to ask that they send another plumber out to inspect. No water leaks at least, although I did have to tighten up the new water supply line about a quarter turn on the tank end due to a very slow drip. Nitrox posted:Is caulking the base a common practice? I usually never do unless there are shims involved and even then leave the back side open. I honestly don't know where you'd get the gasket but its the gasket that is most likely bad. It may be easier to replace the entire assembly.
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Feb 9, 2013 08:12
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I replaced a burned out heating element on my electric hot water heater yesterday after testing it with a nifty continuity tester since I don't yet have a proper multimeter, which was fun. Everything works again now, but when I was draining the tank to pull the upper (bad) heating element I noticed that the water wasn't even lukewarm despite the lower element testing fine, so I didn't replace it (the lower one). What I'm wondering is if the upper element burning out causes the lower element to stop working as well even if the lower one is good, or if I should have replaced both of them. I actually can not find any kind of solid answer on this question through googling so I'm wondering what the thread thinks since the information here is excellent.
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Feb 13, 2013 14:27
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Warpaint posted:I replaced a burned out heating element on my electric hot water heater yesterday after testing it with a nifty continuity tester since I don't yet have a proper multimeter, which was fun. Everything works again now, but when I was draining the tank to pull the upper (bad) heating element I noticed that the water wasn't even lukewarm despite the lower element testing fine, so I didn't replace it (the lower one). What I'm wondering is if the upper element burning out causes the lower element to stop working as well even if the lower one is good, or if I should have replaced both of them. I had to do the same thing (upper element on an electric water heater) about a year ago, and the water wouldn't get above lukewarm through the whole tank. I wouldnt be too concerned.
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Feb 13, 2013 15:46
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How hard would it be to put a proper drain in my basement for my washing machine and maybe add a utility sink? Right now I just have the washing machine hose looped high and cable-tied to the hose bibbs with an extension to the basement floor drain nearby. This place was built in the 50s with steel stacks. The kitchen is directly overhead. The stack for the kitchen sink is located in the basement corner about 6 to 8 feet away from the floor drain.
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Feb 15, 2013 01:43
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kid sinister posted:How hard would it be to put a proper drain in my basement for my washing machine and maybe add a utility sink? Right now I just have the washing machine hose looped high and cable-tied to the hose bibbs with an extension to the basement floor drain nearby. This place was built in the 50s with steel stacks. The kitchen is directly overhead. The stack for the kitchen sink is located in the basement corner about 6 to 8 feet away from the floor drain. You can wet vent 1 fixture off of the floor drain vent. Installing two fixtures ( utility sink and washer box) Would exceed code limits but it should work. You could drain the washer into the utility sink. You would want some sort of riser clamp on the galvanized piping above where you cut in. Since it's hard to say how its supported. Does the vent of the floor drain go vertical completely or does it 90 at the top of the basement wall. And with the right no hub bands you could tie into the glavanized or cast iron with out much problem. Cast iron is more of a bitch to cut so be careful.
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Feb 15, 2013 01:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Does the vent of the floor drain go vertical completely or does it 90 at the top of the basement wall. What vent for the floor drain?
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Feb 15, 2013 02:30
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kid sinister posted:What vent for the floor drain? Well does the vent stack go through the top plate of the wall? If it hit's a 90 and is then horizontal you won't have to support it more.
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Feb 15, 2013 04:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Well does the vent stack go through the top plate of the wall? If it hit's a 90 and is then horizontal you won't have to support it more. You mean the one in the corner? That goes all the way to the roof. It's a one story house.
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Feb 15, 2013 04:23
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kid sinister posted:You mean the one in the corner? That goes all the way to the roof. It's a one story house. Ya basically if it off sets from that vent. When you cut it, it wont fall down on you. Then you won't need a riser clamp.
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Feb 15, 2013 05:01
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Nitrox posted:Is caulking the base a common practice? I usually never do unless there are shims involved and even then leave the back side open.
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Feb 16, 2013 19:46
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya basically if it off sets from that vent. When you cut it, it wont fall down on you. Then you won't need a riser clamp. So how do I check if there is a riser clamp there or not? I can't figure out this "wet vent" stuff. Right now, all I know is that the basement floor drain and the stack for the kitchen sink are on their own branch. I know this because I had a clog a few months ago where garbage disposal veggie goo came up my basement floor drain without affecting drainage in the rest of my house... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 20:27
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kid sinister posted:So how do I check if there is a riser clamp there or not? A wet vent is using the vent of a fixture and making it into a drain. With a vertical vent you could put a San-tee in and then put your p-trap. You do want to increase the vent size but in old applications this isn't really an option. I was talking about adding a riser clamp to the pipe itself just incase it wasn't supported well I didnt want you to cut the pipe and have it drop loving up the what ever could be above it. This would only happen if the pipe ran vertical straight through the roof with out any sort of offset. If you can post some pictures I'd have a better idea though.
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Feb 17, 2013 09:13
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I live in a 100 year old house, with a 100 year old cistern that collects water from the gutters and brings it through cast pipe into the cistern. Pulling the cover and looking at the cistern, I can see some concrete blocks and planters have been thrown down there at some point, and the cistern does seem to be holding some level of water. So my wild idea is to pump this water out and use it to water my garden and lawn. The lawn I'm not worried about, but do I need to test this water for some type of contaminate before using it to water a vegetable garden? And how/what would I test for? Also, my backyard slopes down about 6-8 feet. If I want to use a soaker hose to water the garden, how much water pressure must be on the line, or will it slowly drip out even with weak or just gravity as pressure?
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Feb 18, 2013 20:55
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:The lawn I'm not worried about, but do I need to test this water for some type of contaminate before using it to water a vegetable garden? And how/what would I test for? The CDC has a good link about well testing that would most likely apply to your situation. Here in South Carolina, well tests are handled by the Dept of Health and Environmental Control. SC DHEC has several tests and you pay per sample or per parameter depending on the test.
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Feb 18, 2013 21:18
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You can wet vent 1 fixture off of the floor drain vent. I think I'm understanding wet vents now. In that case, I think I'm already at the limit with the kitchen sink on that vent, right? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Feb 19, 2013 |
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Feb 19, 2013 21:16
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kid sinister posted:I think I'm understanding wet vents now. In that case, I think I'm already at the limit with the kitchen sink on that vent, right? XmasGiftFromWife posted:I live in a 100 year old house, with a 100 year old cistern that collects water from the gutters and brings it through cast pipe into the cistern. Pulling the cover and looking at the cistern, I can see some concrete blocks and planters have been thrown down there at some point, and the cistern does seem to be holding some level of water. So my wild idea is to pump this water out and use it to water my garden and lawn. You gain almost .5 PSI per foot gained or lost vertically. I imagine rain water would have some random constituents based on area so it may not be the best to use. You could take a sample as previously posted to most areas to multiple locations to get tested.
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Feb 20, 2013 02:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You gain almost .5 PSI per foot gained or lost vertically. I imagine rain water would have some random constituents based on area so it may not be the best to use. You could take a sample as previously posted to most areas to multiple locations to get tested. Just to share I got the following estimates on testing water: quote:We can certainly test for a wide variety of chemical contaminants in your water if you really want to. The cost of the testing though is likely to far exceed the cost of simply using your domestic water supply instead of the cistern. So the front lawn and bushes will get the cistern and the backyard and garden delicious city water. Hopefully the fluoride will prevent cavities in my tomatoes.
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Feb 20, 2013 16:21
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Just to share I got the following estimates on testing water: You could do a carbon filter for the veggie garden to remove the chlorine from the water.
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Feb 20, 2013 22:45
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the kitchen sink is the line you are seeing it may not be the floor drain vent. They shouldnt be tied together since they are on different floors. You still may get away with it but it wont be up to code. It has to be. It's an unfinished basement, so no pipes are hiding behind walls down there. There's a floor drain down there and only 2 stacks coming up: the one for the kitchen in the corner, and the one for the bathroom. That's all, it's a small house. Again, I know that the kitchen and basement floor drain are on their own branch from the bathroom's stack.
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Feb 20, 2013 22:46
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I had an issue with a toilet on my second floor: water pooling at its base. Took it off, changed out the wax ring, all's good for those parts. At the same time I changed the hard copper supply line to a flexible supply line with a new shut off valve. Those push-on connectors are freakin' miracles. Anyway, after this everything's good except the toilet makes a dripping sound only when water's put into it (someone's peeing) or just after it finishes flushing. From my piss-poor understanding of things it feels like the water level's sitting right at the top of the trap so any added volume to the bowl causes water to flow over the trap and drip down into the drain. What can I do to resolve this? Until I took the toilet off I'd never noticed this before.
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Feb 25, 2013 04:39
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