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Had another look at the exploder. Pumped up its lovely tyre, took it off the ramps and messed around in the yard with it. I think the 4x4 engages and disengages but there is no doubt it is stuck in low range. Combine that with the fact it's impossible to turn the TC selector shaft manually all the way to L (which it should be in) and the possibly unrelated issue that the speedometer vss on the TC doesn't seem to work says to me it is certain that the TC is hosed in some way. I also tried a reversing camera for the first time. It had one fitted so I figured I'd give it a try although I had no real need to. I can see how they would be a useful aid in some situations but gently caress anyone that uses cameras and sensors exclusively.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:09
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A reverse camera that you could extend onto the back of a trailer would be phenomenal.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:47
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EightBit posted:A reverse camera that you could extend onto the back of a trailer would be phenomenal. I suppose that's a really good use for a wireless camera. Just use the trailer aux power feed wire to run it.
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Feb 16, 2013 03:53
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A backup camera would be pretty nice for my car. Between the small rear window, factory spoiler, and dark tint, I can't see poo poo out of it at night.
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Feb 16, 2013 06:26
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VelociBacon posted:That sounds like a good plan. I'd also be aware that if you're hoping to get into autox, most groups like SCCA and similar will have your miata in a really ultra competitive 'sport modified' category if you do much to the suspension. It's sorta a tradeoff IMO, my friend has an S2000 that is primarily prepped to be maxed out for a lower tier of AutoX and he had to forgo many suspension upgrades that would have really made the vehicle more fun to drive in order to stay in the less competitive class. EP is E-Prepared  Also, he can go pretty goddamn far on the suspension side of it and not go past or even into CSP. Also, Velocibacon, how the HELL is a stock NA in SSB where your SCCA region is? Voltage, if you want to talk NA Miata mods and subsequent classing, PM me. It usually goes (without adding a turbo or something) E-Stock > Street Touring Sport/Roadster (this depends on your differential, STS is open, STR is Torsen) > C Street Prepared (This is the ultra-loving competitive class and I dare anyone who has driven an NA/NB to beat Darren Dissimo at the Dixie Tour). I don't know about anything past prepared and didn't see anything in the rulebook appendix when I flipped through it other than the 04/05 Miatas. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 20:45
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Did a post-cat O2 sensor. I loving hate these things.  
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Feb 16, 2013 23:05
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Crustashio posted:Did a post-cat O2 sensor. I loving hate these things. I applaud you for doing that in the winter but why didn't you wait until it wasn't all snowy and cold and stuff? A post-cat is hardly anything that requires immediate attention. Unless, of course, you're just masochistic. I mean, I need new rear brakes, but gently caress doing it in this weather, they're not that bad that I can't wait a few more months.
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Feb 17, 2013 00:16
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CornHolio posted:A post-cat is hardly anything that requires immediate attention. Or needs to pass an inspection and the station won't pass a car with a CEL even if it passes the dyno sniffer test (assuming you can even get them to put it on the dyno...)
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Feb 17, 2013 00:18
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CornHolio posted:I applaud you for doing that in the winter but why didn't you wait until it wasn't all snowy and cold and stuff? A post-cat is hardly anything that requires immediate attention. It was like 6°C today, even more when I was in the sun. Didn't even have a jacket on. When I did my headlights it was -10°, THAT was uncomfortable. I was going to do front brakes as well, but it turns out something cut the wear sensor cable in half so I just left those.
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Feb 17, 2013 00:26
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Removed the transfer case shifter linkage that rattles like hell at high speed (or high RPM I can't remember). I also used an actual tachometer to set the idle speed - it was close to begin with but now dialed right in. The tach was $40 not very well spent as it wasn't really important right now to do. Removing the linkage was $2 well spent, on replacement pins and wave washers I have yet to install. *oh*, and I dropped off my spare rim to get a tire on it from this century. My current spare is called 'farm and market' and had a wicked flat spot and cracking. It's dangerous to even look at.
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Feb 17, 2013 02:33
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Does a garage count? I shifted a huge amount of poo poo out into the yard so I can access more poo poo and hopefully go through it. My long term goal is to liberate the garage enough that I can actually put a vehicle in it. I really need a shed.
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Feb 17, 2013 02:47
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Borrowed a buddy's orbital buffer and went to town. I was going to do a 2nd run with a finer polish but jesus christ gently caress that.
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Feb 17, 2013 03:31
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I put a new (to me) radiator in the WRX (with new Samco hoses from jamal and way-over-my-pay-grade t-bolt clamps from the local drag racing store) to fix the broken-off mounting tabs that have been on it ever since I've owned the car. Now everything is tight as a drum in the engine bay. Now just to be paranoid about potential leaks for a few weeks as the spilled coolant burns off the header. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 04:19
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Changed the fuel filter on the 4Runner, which is under the intake ,manifold under the block. Not exactly easy to get to, but not as bad as on my old A4. Took off the idle air control valve, as it is idleing low ( 500rpm) when cold only (750 when warm). Its been around freezing, so the valve should be opening a bit. However, its almost closed. There is a bimetallic strip in the valve that closes it when the coolant heats up, but I think its gone weak. Going to see if the junk yard has one (and maybe a manual BMW trans...).
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Feb 17, 2013 04:38
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Tacked in the upper shock mounts, thus completing the first stage in swapping to a Mustang II front suspension in my '39 chevy. Tomorrow, test fit the rest of the bits. Control arms, springs, shocks, coils, etc.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:53
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Beach Bum posted:EP is E-Prepared I just realised that I was looking at club racing and not the autoX stuff. Here are the regulations for solo racing.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:54
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Took to my horribly yellowed headlights with an overpriced RainX restoration kit. Results look pretty good but I'm not sure how well the sealant is going to keep them that way.  Also completely forgot to take a before shot
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Feb 17, 2013 05:44
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 Goddamnit motherfuck shitstain. At least I have a few months left on the emissions warranty (8 years from original purchase/80k miles, whichever comes first - original owner purchased it in October 2005), but that's going to require a trip to a GM dealer. And probably some arguing about the warranty. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 07:03
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I washed it for the first time in 10,000 miles. It was more black than orange before and surprisingly all the tar and exhaust particles came off the vinly with the cleaner wax and no stains.  
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Feb 17, 2013 07:14
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some texas redneck posted:
Can I take a wild guess and say this is a GTO?
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Feb 17, 2013 07:23
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It's a Saturn Ion.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:24
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VelociBacon posted:I just realised that I was looking at club racing and not the autoX stuff. I figured it was something like that. Holdbrooks posted:I washed it for the first time in 10,000 miles. It was more black than orange before and surprisingly all the tar and exhaust particles came off the vinly with the cleaner wax and no stains. I LOVE your license plate 
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Feb 17, 2013 07:26
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Put a new alternator on the E55. Thanking all the gods that I had the foresight to buy an Optima battery or I wouldn't have made it to work or back. It's probably been out for 3 days at least, but it sat right at 11.5-11.7V for 3 hours of run time. Went ahead and replaced the serpentine belt while I was in there, and since the coolant was drained, I flushed and filled with MB-recommended fluid. Luckily I had my buddy helping me, getting that inside belt on is a pure bitch by yourself--the hex on the tensioner that you're supposed to turn with a socket is completely covered by the 180mm blower pulley. There was obvious burning on the back of the alternator where the windings exit the case but the regulator was fine. It smelled like burnt hair. I had to get a reman alternator--a new one was $1100 at the dealership and $800 or so online. Got a Bosch-branded rebuilt for $185 with an employee discount from a friend at Carquest. While we were at it, we replaced the thermostat on my buddy's 2003 Audi A4. Wow, gently caress that right in the rear end. Throttle body, alternator, bracing, all that has to come out for a friggin' computer controlled thermostat that regularly breaks. The Mercedes was a joy to work on compared to this; plenty of room and straightforward removal procedure. All that and a central jacking point.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:37
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XCPuff posted:Can I take a wild guess and say this is a GTO? Tusen Takk posted:It's a Saturn Ion. That. Still not looking forward to dealing with a GM dealer for a warranty claim, I've heard so many horror stories about Saturn owners trying to get Chevy dealers to even touch their cars - though my luck may be a bit better since the Ion is basically a Chevy Cobalt that's been dipped in plastic. I called CarMax and left a voicemail asking if they can do mfg warranty work; at least if I go there, I'm guaranteed a loaner while they wait on parts.
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Feb 17, 2013 09:16
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some texas redneck posted:That. Did you try to clear the code and give it an Italian tuning? Might just be a dirty downstream O2-sensor. It's probably a leak in the flexpipe though.
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Feb 17, 2013 11:58
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some texas redneck posted:That. Reset code and do a drive cycle. As cornelius said, sometimes you can get those codes transiently. Edit: You could even do your drive cycle on the way back to the dealership to return your GM.
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Feb 17, 2013 12:19
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VelociBacon posted:Reset code and do a drive cycle. As cornelius said, sometimes you can get those codes transiently. You really can't diagnose a OBD-II P0420-code on any vehicle without looking for pending codes. If there's none, and you can't visually see any flexpipe leaks, there's a good chance it's just carbon build-up on a downstream O2-sensor. Beating the gently caress out of the car while it's warm, will in many cases fix it (Italian tuning). If that doesn't fix it, at least try removing the sensors and manually clean them. If in doubt do a bench test. A lot of perfectly fine O2-sensors and exhaust components are replaced due to P0420 DTCs. Step 1: Remove the DTC. Step 2: Step on it on a warm engine. Pedal to the metal for a solid 5 minutes, just for science (this actually saved me from a speeding ticket once). Also: 420 is most often the Grandpa DTC. As in you drive low RPMs as gently caress and has 2 km. between stops, or you deliver pizzas for a living. A lot of small trips and a lot of idling will do this to most O2-sensors. Reset that poo poo and report back. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 14:03
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StormDrain posted:Removed the transfer case shifter linkage that rattles like hell at high speed (or high RPM I can't remember). It almost worked! The rattling is much quieter now. I must also have had a tailwind on the highway because it was movin' right along at 70 and seemed quieter than usual. Or maybe Car Talk was louder than usual. Or perhaps that rattle was worse than I thought. Also it definitely was high RPM that makes it rattle. Perhaps a little rubber washer in the mounting bracket is in order. Just because I like it so much today I lubed the drag link, it feels like 1000 miles since I did it last.
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Feb 17, 2013 21:04
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Sir Cornelius posted:You really can't diagnose a OBD-II P0420-code on any vehicle without looking for pending codes. If there's none, and you can't visually see any flexpipe leaks, there's a good chance it's just carbon build-up on a downstream O2-sensor. Beating the gently caress out of the car while it's warm, will in many cases fix it (Italian tuning). Reset it today. Hasn't come back yet, and all systems except for evap are showing complete now. On the way home, the catalytic converter temp was a nice toasty ~1600F after winding it out to get on the highway:  I paid attention to the output of both O2 sensors today. The secondary seems to be doing something really weird though - sometimes it hangs out around 0.2V, sometimes it hangs out at 0.8V. It doesn't bounce around at all, it just seems to do one or the other (unless I'm coasting, then both drop to 0, as expected). Has me wondering if there's an issue with the secondary sensor:  Floored to redline in 1st, then shifted into 3rd and coasted  Accelerating, but not hard  Cruising around 45 mph  Still cruising, at highway speeds (~65). Secondary sensor was doing something.. interesting? As for grandpa - I knew it was a bad idea to pay attention to the upshift light.  e: no exhaust leaks that I can find. e2: tomorrow I'm going to redo the screen with the O2 sensors to include speed, RPM, and throttle position, more so I can remember which screenshot is which (if I take any others). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 04:36
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More garage cleaning. It would seem as though water got to my spare VW P&Cs, and for some unfathomable reason my box of spare LPG components was on the floor near the main door, torn asunder with the parts scattered on the concrete. Of course some damage was done. That was weird. So...  e: my panelbeating gear is also rusty. Is that an issue or can I just hit it with converter and not think of it again? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 18, 2013 04:44
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Buckled down and started prepping the Protege to pull the motor out. I'd been procrastinating since just looking at the car would piss me off and I'd wind up getting nothing done, but today I just decided to get over it and start working. I already had the intake piping off from my aborted attempt to separate the bellhousing, so today I undid the whole electrical harness on top of the motor and unbolted the PS pump. We've got AllData at work, so tomorrow I'm gonna print off the whole checklist to make sure I don't miss anything. Hopefully I can get some friends to help me push it up in the driveway so it's not sitting immobile on the side of the road; I already had the cops called on us once when I had the plate off for a few days (had to use the screws to put the plate on the Blazer) and I don't want to push my luck and get it towed on me.
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Feb 19, 2013 00:15
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Removed Mr. Transaxle from the Porsche today. I said gently caress the jack and man handled it out, it's just more fun that way. 
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Feb 19, 2013 02:56
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Bought 6 quarts of Redline MT-90 and hopefully diagnosed an auto-locking hub problem. Now for new tires! 
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Feb 19, 2013 17:23
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Replaced the shift cables on my Prelude, it works now but the main cable was a different size so now my top three gears make the cable hit the center console.
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Feb 20, 2013 05:24
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I upgraded my old metal dipstick to a mad FDM* fibreglass jauge d'huile ultra légère. It also has a round blue handle, which is obviously superior to the original T-shaped orange handle. As you can see, the gains in filler cap horsepowers are absolutely massive, because of the greatly increased under hood airflow due to the improved aerodynamic handle and the enormous weight savings from moving to fibreglass dipstick technology.  * French Domestic Market
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Feb 21, 2013 09:32
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I just dropped my Sonic LTZ Turbo off for baby's first tire rotation and oil change. 
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Feb 21, 2013 15:17
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Changed out the old and tired 300K mile Hitachi fuel injectors for some shiny new Bosch 30# units, also replaced the spark plugs and wires. Turns out that is where all my horsepowers had escaped from, car runs so much better now. No more rough shaking idle, no more stumbling when I let off the throttle from high RPM, and pulls incredibly strong throughout the whole rev range without hiccuping. These new things: http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-audi-7a-efi-injector-adapter-kit-improved-p-329.html Now instead of rough idle, I have high idle. Can't win them all!
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Feb 21, 2013 17:03
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intheflesh posted:Now instead of rough idle, I have high idle. Can't win them all! Your vehicle might just need to relearn it's idle. The easiest/fastest way to do this is to disconnect a battery terminal for a couple minutes then connect it back up and let the car idle for 5 min.
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Feb 23, 2013 22:08
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I haven't done poo poo. Well, I have sort of. Got one of the back tyres plugged on the fairlane because I was sick of pumping it up all the time. Started running it on LPG again because it's having weird cutouts on petrol that I can't explain. During the partial shed cleanout I was able to reach the steering wheel for the VW and retrieved it. I want to put it back on again. I also pondered why a parked car seems to decay inside and out faster than one actively being used.
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Feb 23, 2013 22:48
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Adjusted my parking brake cable. Yeah, it seems like a small thing, but with that and the flush I did the other day I'm at a point where I'm willing to call the brakes done. Which means the whole truck's basically Good Enough For Now. Hopefully we'll be able to get the Protege pushed into the garage in the next few days here and I can really get cracking on pulling the motor.
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Feb 23, 2013 23:37
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