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SRM posted:Wrapped up the first Tactical Squad! I was originally going to go with 5th Company markings, but the quartered heraldry was problematic so I went with the simpler 3rd company markings. Looking very spiffy and clean there!!, really jelly of all this Dark Angels stuff people are putting out, I had to sell all mine at xmas Killer_Bees! fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Feb 17, 2013 |
# ? Feb 17, 2013 07:44 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 16:58 |
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crime fighting hog posted:So my regulator came for my compressor and it doesn't fit. if you have a badger airbrush that goes on the airbrush not the compressor
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 07:54 |
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SRM posted:Wrapped up the first Tactical Squad! I was originally going to go with 5th Company markings, but the quartered heraldry was problematic so I went with the simpler 3rd company markings. I did exactly the same thing with the company markings. The quartered kneepad was just a bit too fiddly for me. ...and I definitely agree with Killer_Bees!, they look pretty sharp. The bases are nifty, too.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 09:27 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Cool, I'll check out ACE tomorrow. There is a Harbor Freight in my town but it's loving creepy and scary to go to and they are woefully understocked last I went. I have a hard time wrapping my brain around the idea of a Harbor Freight being "creepy."
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 09:35 |
The first box of mini's I ever got was a tyranid megaforce about 5 years ago. I finally got around to painting the hormagaunts from it over the last couple of weeks. I've never used them much, but it's nice to have them done.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 10:33 |
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Hooray, Arson Fire is back on 'Nid detail! Awesome models, dude.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 10:36 |
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Arson Fire posted:The first box of mini's I ever got was a tyranid megaforce about 5 years ago. I finally got around to painting the hormagaunts from it over the last couple of weeks. I love them, the bright colour scheme really pops! The bases are great as well. Nw you should paint up 16 more in order to field a squad that survives the furst two rounds of shooting
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 10:51 |
Yeah, I might have to. Most times I've used these guys in a game there have been about three left by the time they reach the enemy. The next thing on my painting table is a group of 24 termagants. I'm getting better at painting them in large batches, but I won't want to even look at another unpainted gaunt by the time I'm done.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 11:34 |
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Crossposting from the Historicals thread, I finished my first 28mm stuff in almost a year, and it's a small units of archers and arquebuses:
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 14:44 |
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The free-hand on the banner is , nice work.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 15:34 |
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VogeGandire posted:The free-hand on the banner is , nice work. Thanks! I was going to paint up some units from the Ii clan. I thought they just used their "hash-tag" style banners, which are the ones that are famous. But no, it turned out that their missile troops fielded the "hachiman" (Japanese God of war) banners for their units. Luckily enough most of the actual infantrymen only carried red banners without any designs. I put the hash-tags on their helmets and breastplates instead.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 16:07 |
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So I spent 3 weeks without internet. That’s a long goddamn time without distractions, and thus I got busy with the usual—namely, painting. This is some of the fruits of my labor. At the local game store (Off The Wall Games, Hadley, MA) there’s some terrain in various states of painted, unpainted, and in disrepair. I’m going through some of them to give’em a fresh coat of paint and/or repairing them, and these two caught my eye. This is what it looked like before I started: And as I went along... It started to take shape! Until finally... 99% of the painting was done with an airbrush, with only the ammo box and bolter painted by hand. I learned quite a bit on how to use the airbrush in the process, namely fine control and detail work, and I'm now taking a crack at some Imperial Sector buildings using the airbrush.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 16:53 |
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Fix posted:I have a hard time wrapping my brain around the idea of a Harbor Freight being "creepy." The employees all looked like bearded meth addicts, the store had low stock and lovely lighting and the other customers were loving scary, I don't know what to tell you. Everyone was just so... pale and hairy...
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 17:44 |
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OneTrueBru posted:I did exactly the same thing with the company markings. The quartered kneepad was just a bit too fiddly for me. Also, between the terrain, Hormagaunts, and tiny samurai, there's already a hell of a lot of awesome going on on this page.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 17:53 |
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Can someone explain to me why basing miniatures is so much fun? All I'm doing is putting down PVA then dipping in grit/sand but it's making me really happy.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 18:42 |
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Castle Bidimar posted:Can someone explain to me why basing miniatures is so much fun? All I'm doing is putting down PVA then dipping in grit/sand but it's making me really happy. More power to you! I made the swap last year to pre-made bases like Dragon Forge's or base inserts, and haven't looked back. Then again, I'm no master craftsman here, I just want an army done, and done yesterday.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 18:53 |
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Castle Bidimar posted:Can someone explain to me why basing miniatures is so much fun? All I'm doing is putting down PVA then dipping in grit/sand but it's making me really happy.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 19:29 |
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Cross-posting from 40k thread (actually meant to post here, did there by accident!) Not a great picture, but here's two of my Terminators and their half-painted Land Raider. I think I am making a little bit of progress from my earlier stuff although still have a long way to go. Naturally comments welcome.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 20:17 |
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Yay my regulator works! Gonna airbrush the poo poo outta something tonight.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 20:23 |
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Nooooooooo! Micro Art Studio stopped making their Ancient Base line! I still needed more... I thought there was more time...
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 20:31 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Nooooooooo! Micro Art Studio stopped making their Ancient Base line! I still needed more... I thought there was more time... What size and how many do you need? I have some laying around that I would gladly trade/sell/whatever. Also, I picked Ancient when basing my army for this very reason, because loving EVERY company has "autumn temple with broken statuary" style bases.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 20:37 |
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MAS broke up into two companies a few years ago, I guess the owners had a falling out or such. Half the company's line went to the new company, Basicks. Is it on there? http://basicks.eu/shop/index.php?id_category=5&controller=category
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 21:03 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:MAS broke up into two companies a few years ago, I guess the owners had a falling out or such. Half the company's line went to the new company, Basicks. Is it on there? I love you, buddy. You and your pizza hat are the best.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 22:00 |
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Working on a custom objective for my Nurgle Daemons. What do y'all think?
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 22:01 |
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SRM posted:Because it's really easy, and makes your minis look a lot better for the effort. I usually do that before I paint them, so I can prime their bases and the model in one go and hit the grit up with a few drybrush layers. Takes like a minute longer per base and makes them look even better. Not even that, just the simple "spread thinned PVA, apply grit, place a few bits of broken cork, apply another thin PVA coat" process is just incredibly serene. It's like meditation for me.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 22:52 |
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Can anyone recommend a white non-spray primer?
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 22:52 |
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Mechafunkzilla posted:Can anyone recommend a white non-spray primer? Vallejo surface primer. I only have the grey one, but it kicks rear end.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:04 |
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How does GW Ceramite White compare to the old Skull White or whatever the standard layer white is now? Getting tired of doing like 6 coats of white over light grey and still having it come out streaky or lumpy.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:18 |
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SRM posted:How does GW Ceramite White compare to the old Skull White or whatever the standard layer white is now? Getting tired of doing like 6 coats of white over light grey and still having it come out streaky or lumpy. I'm not sure how that particular paint works, but you can always try going over a layer of gray with watery coats of white. It takes forever, but you end up with a very smooth white coat. Just make sure to wait for each layer to dry, otherwise you might mess up the entire process.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:21 |
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SRM posted:How does GW Ceramite White compare to the old Skull White or whatever the standard layer white is now? Getting tired of doing like 6 coats of white over light grey and still having it come out streaky or lumpy. At first release Ceramite White was clumping in the pot and was unsellable. I don't know if it has gotten any better. Personally I have switched to Golden Fluid Acrylics: Titamium White and never looked back. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 18, 2013 |
# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:30 |
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Castle Bidimar posted:Not even that, just the simple "spread thinned PVA, apply grit, place a few bits of broken cork, apply another thin PVA coat" process is just incredibly serene. It's like meditation for me. I think it's because it's almost like a Japanese rock garden. Just placing everything just-so.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:38 |
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SRM posted:How does GW Ceramite White compare to the old Skull White or whatever the standard layer white is now? Getting tired of doing like 6 coats of white over light grey and still having it come out streaky or lumpy. You need to thin it because it dries and clumps quickly. This reduces the level of coverage somewhat, but it's still leagues ahead of skull white.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:46 |
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Dirty Job posted:I'm not sure how that particular paint works, but you can always try going over a layer of gray with watery coats of white. It takes forever, but you end up with a very smooth white coat. Just make sure to wait for each layer to dry, otherwise you might mess up the entire process.
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# ? Feb 17, 2013 23:47 |
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These are my first mans. I started with 15mm because I thought it was a scale that I could handle, but its taken me forever to get to the point where I'm painting at a standard I'm happy with (tons of stripping). I'm done with the green platoon (~40 dudes) and starting on their vehicles (first one done is displayed). I've just started the brown/blue guys. They are going to be a platoon with berlin brigade camo scheme vehicles. I did the best I could to come up with an infantry scheme that matches it. They need some future+flat base to take the shine off, I haven't done it yet since I put some interference orange paint on their cloaks to give them a metallic sheen (they're supposed to be like stealth guys with thermal-blocking camo cloaks or whatever), I also put it on their visors to make them kind of mirrored. I don't know if I should put flat base over that, I think it will kill the metallic effect, but you can see roughly what I'm going for. I would greatly appreciate any comments/suggestion/criticism. Sorry for the lighting, I ended up not having a light bright enough to do good light box shots, used sunlight from the window instead. For size reference, the panda is 2.5" tall from foot to the top of the pilot's head.
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 01:10 |
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Paper Mac posted:These are my first mans. I started with 15mm because I thought it was a scale that I could handle, but its taken me forever to get to the point where I'm painting at a standard I'm happy with (tons of stripping). I would greatly appreciate any comments/suggestion/criticism. Other than that... Hit them with a bit of Anti-Shine, I guess? And switch to 28mm.
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 01:24 |
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Pierzak posted:Get more self-esteem or something. You're painting 15mm what would be considered good tabletop for 28mm by many people. I feel good about the standard I'm painting to with these guys, it just takes me forever (like it takes me a day working pretty steadily to do 4 guys) and I'm not really sure about my colour choices, level of contrast, etc. If I switched to 28mm I'd never get a single model done and I'd be a lot poorer, so I think I'll stick with 15mm for now! This thread has been really good for inspiring me to improve my technique, by the way, so thanks guys. Here's the pic that inspired me to do this project anyway:
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 01:53 |
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That time is normal. You have to pick, either fast, good, or you're Bachtere Where's that picture from?
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 01:56 |
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That eskimo doesn't know how to ride a jetski.
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 02:01 |
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Pierzak posted:That time is normal. You have to pick, either fast, good, or you're Bachtere What kind of unit sizes do people do in one colour scheme in 28mm? I've got like 40 dudes on each side, as well as a platoon of APCs and a platoon of armor, I have to say I get bored as hell cranking through them with the same scheme. The picture is, IIRC, from boardgamegeek, but last time I checked the guy who painted it had taken them down. I kept a copy as a sort of reference- I knew I wasn't going to be able to paint them that well, but I wanted to be able to see what kinds of techniques he used, as I learned to drybrush and stuff.
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# ? Feb 18, 2013 02:30 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 16:58 |
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Depends. You've got Warhammer regiments of 40 infantry, and you've got skirmish systems where a whole army is ~10 models and each model is an individual. I'm partial to Infinity where the most of the same unit I have is 8 models, and that's counting alternative weapon loadouts. Infinity models are intimidating as hell to many new painters, though. Other skirmish games I know have nice minis are Malifaux, Anima Tactics, Umbra Turris.
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Feb 18, 2013 |
# ? Feb 18, 2013 02:52 |