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I hope the Scion breaks your curse at least.
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Feb 14, 2013 03:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I hope the Scion breaks your curse at least. Me too. Collision with a $1k deductible on this one.
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Feb 14, 2013 07:14
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The good news: maybe my car will hit the dyno tomorrow! The bad news: it was supposed to be done with parts and tuning a week ago! Anyway, fed up with the lackadaisical nature of my mechanic as I am, I am still very excited to see what all these go fast bits feel like.
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Feb 14, 2013 17:18
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Does anyone know where to find the center piece of the core support for a 96 legacy online? The front center vertical piece that the bottom of the hood latch bolts onto, I can find every other piece (top bar & sides) but that one piece of the car eludes me
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Feb 14, 2013 18:17
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I know you said online, but a salvage yard would be my go-to.
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Feb 14, 2013 18:29
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Neptr posted:I know you said online, but a salvage yard would be my go-to. I went to a pick & pull to get the whole thing and after taking the whole front off the car realized the whole gay support is pinch welded everywhere to everything and they don't let you use + i don't have any power tools. I got to hang out with a cool guy from africa who does body work and was pulling the wiring harness out of a land rover next to me and he offered me a hammer and chisel to bang it out and it would work eventually but I'd go deaf first from the noise and gently caress I'd rather just buy the piece of poo poo
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Feb 14, 2013 18:40
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yyyyyy posted:Does anyone know where to find the center piece of the core support for a 96 legacy online? The front center vertical piece that the bottom of the hood latch bolts onto, This what you're looking for? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_5/body/radiator_panel/ 50812AA010 $40 from subarugenuineparts.com
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Feb 14, 2013 20:46
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jamal posted:This what you're looking for? Yesss! Thank you I love you 
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Feb 14, 2013 21:27
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is there any comprehensive drive cycle list somewhere that can tell me what I need to do to get all my OBD sensors ready to go (02 impreza)? everywhere I look it's just a bunch of people saying 'idle it, drive it on the freeway, kick the tires 3x and then bring it to the station.' I've put at least 120 miles on it since the reset and my evap and oxygen sensors are still not ready, and I've only got one free test left. even if someone has a more rigorous formula than 'drive it out there and back' that would be nice.
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Feb 14, 2013 21:58
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What Subaru models have a 4.44 rear end and MT that I could swap into a 1999 RS?
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Feb 14, 2013 22:30
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This lists the ratios and final drive for just about everything: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2173258 A lot of older JDM wrx/stis. Could probably find one of those on ebay. Make sure you have the code on the transmission though because the first ebay listing I looked at said it was from a different car. You should also probably try to stick with the same kind of clutch (push type). jamal fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 22:35
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Should be pretty easy to get a JDM STI RA box from Quebec, there are a handful of importers around there. You'd have to change the axles then though (as they use a different retainer than all other Subaru axles I've seen).
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Feb 14, 2013 22:52
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Saw a Focus ST in the wild today, those suckers are quick. He easily tailed me from 30-80 mph as I was entering the freeway from a ramp, and I'm at about ~290whp. Subaru definitely has some stiff competition for their next gen.
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Feb 14, 2013 23:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Should be pretty easy to get a JDM STI RA box from Quebec, there are a handful of importers around there. You'd have to change the axles then though (as they use a different retainer than all other Subaru axles I've seen). Toronto has dozens of shops that do this too. TorontoJDM, etc.
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Feb 14, 2013 23:15
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daslog posted:What Subaru models have a 4.44 rear end and MT that I could swap into a 1999 RS? Forester XT is your only USDM choice. It's expensive and rare and not worth it. Just run 4.11s because they're cheap and everywhere. I have 1 diff and three 4.11 NA gearboxes in my shed.
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Feb 15, 2013 00:44
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The 99 Forester I bought for $2k has about $8200 in service receipts over the last 2.5 years. 
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Feb 15, 2013 02:43
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Mercury Ballistic posted:The other day I took the passenger side skirt off my 09 WRX wagon to find where the water was collecting after a rain. I either broke or lost two of the plastic plugs and put some waterproof tape over the gaps. This water issue also happens to me but on the drivers side. It only lasts for one or two drives though, and only right after it rains. I also noticed the ridiculous amount of leaves/dirt/sticks/cigarette butts that are in the liners as well. When I first looked at it I thought a mouse had made a nest in there, but it was on both sides and that just seemed unlikely. I feel like the water gets in through whatever hole is near the lining because it only started after I cleaned them out to put in a set of mudflaps. e: I've got an 09 WRX too, I wonder if this happens to other model years.
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Feb 15, 2013 06:12
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ChisGT and I are wondering of the torque settings for the Water Pump in my 99 RS manual are wrong.
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Feb 16, 2013 18:28
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Looking for some more advice on swaybars for my 06 Saabaru (WRX wagon). Stock bars are 20 front / 17 back. The most repeated recommendation I've seen is to just replace the front bar with a 25mm as it would help eliminate some understeer. Does that make sense to you guys, or do you think I should do rear (or both) instead?
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Feb 16, 2013 19:35
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daslog posted:ChisGT and I are wondering of the torque settings for the Water Pump in my 99 RS manual are wrong. You're only seating the gasket and keeping the pump from being moved by the timing belt, those look okay and not much different from what I did my SOHC 2.2 with.
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Feb 16, 2013 21:31
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Well it says torque to 10nm and then torque to 10nm again. I recall it being slightly higher.
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Feb 16, 2013 22:51
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blk posted:Looking for some more advice on swaybars for my 06 Saabaru (WRX wagon). Stock bars are 20 front / 17 back. The most repeated recommendation I've seen is to just replace the front bar with a 25mm as it would help eliminate some understeer. Does that make sense to you guys, or do you think I should do rear (or both) instead? If someone is seriously saying to reduce understeer by increasing front bar, smash them in the face with a cricket bat. They have zero clue and / or been sucked into that camber curves bullshit. Even if the camber curves nonsense is slightly true, what you have done is reduce front end grip and in fact increased understeer. Wrong idea -and frsnkly if there is a problem, why not fix the issue rather than a badly thought out bandaid? Castor. Lots of it. No denying a WRX lacks both front castor and camber, so you hit it with a ALK or the castor plates mod. Doing a rear bar will reduce rear grip and reduce apparent understeer if you dont feel like doing either of that. By the way, the white car we have has the same bars and it's not a particular issue in understeer. My advice is to do a driving course and you'll see that the "understeer" is actually quite useful in getting about 20kph a corner faster out of it.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:54
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I'm thinking of getting Rota Gravels for my 2003 WRX sedan. They're listed here: http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6385 Anyone have any experience with these? I can't find many cars that run them (usually its the Tarmac 2s and 3s) but I really like the look of them (they're the STi Spec-C replicas). People typically love them or hate Rotas but I don't care I think these look good.
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Feb 17, 2013 03:09
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Yakattak posted:I'm thinking of getting Rota Gravels for my 2003 WRX sedan. They're listed here: http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6385 I believe the consensus is that Rota's look nice, but are cheaply made. So don't expect OEM longevity or resilience to damage.
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Feb 17, 2013 03:59
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As far as swaybars go, you definitely don't just want to throw on a big front bar. The idea behind it is that by keeping the front end flat you are keeping the outside front tire in better contact with the ground because with less roll the wheel and tire will not lean over as far. While that's true, the big front bar also means that you are transferring much more weight at the front end, and that reduces the front end grip. So the short answer is more camber, more caster, and bigger bars front and rear. 22mm solid equal sized bars is a good all around street car setup.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:04
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Amandyke posted:I believe the consensus is that Rota's look nice, but are cheaply made. So don't expect OEM longevity or resilience to damage. They'll only be run in the summer anyway.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:37
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I had looked at Rota Gravel but it's a very heavy wheel.. about 24 lbs. Ended up with Rota DPT, they've held up very well.
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Feb 17, 2013 06:00
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Did my motor blow today? Maybe 
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Feb 17, 2013 06:53
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Mine dumped coolant all over the driveway last night. Time to go looking for loose hoses.
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Feb 17, 2013 14:25
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Came home from a highway trip last night and noticed a coolant smell getting home. Found the under tray covered in coolant on the drivers side and the overflow bottle empty. I checked the hoses and they are tight on that side. I refilled the coolant and let it warm up. The fans didn't kick in, but the needle was at roughly normal temp. Engaging defrost or AC didn't engage the fans. AC compressor doesn't engage either The fuses for the AC (interior) and fans (engine bay fuse box) were both fine.
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Feb 17, 2013 17:26
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Mine had a pcv hose pop off and begin leaking fluid on the dyno. After that was reattached, it began to misfire. Hopefully it isn't new shortblock time, but if it is, I'm okay with that. Currently I am waiting to hear back from the shop about the extent of the damage and if the misfire is just a crankcase ventilation related issue or popped out seal somewhere rather than actual engine damage. 
Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 17:48
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Sockington posted:Came home from a highway trip last night and noticed a coolant smell getting home. Do you have an ODB scanner you can use to read coolant temp? I would start there and do some drives around the block to see what is happening. As far as the a/c goes, if the compressor isn't coming on the fan won't either, I don't think. The FSM has a thing about when the fans come on and for them both to be going the temp has to be something like 210 degrees with a/c on. And if the a/c won't come on, there is a pressure sensor that will prevent it from coming on without enough freon. Maybe that's an unrelated problem? Roman, if you blew a pcv hose and the car is misfiring, it leads me to believe you had excessively high crank case pressure which unfortunately can mean a cracked ringland. You'll want a leakdown test done.
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Feb 17, 2013 20:50
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jamal posted:Roman, if you blew a pcv hose and the car is misfiring, it leads me to believe you had excessively high crank case pressure which unfortunately can mean a cracked ringland. You'll want a leakdown test done. That's kind of what I think too. We'll find out soon enough I guess. lovely to have a shop blow your ringland, but this setup isn't exactly in "safe" mod territory anyway. I'll let you guys know when I know more. edit: this is on a stock internals 05 sti with an FP hta green (60lb/min turbo), EL headers, meth injection, 3" exhaust, uppipe, EWG, 73mm intake, ebcs, big injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel rails, process west intercooler and probably plenty of stuff I'm forgetting. This incident occurred during the conversion to speed density and tuning for meth injection. The car was running 22psi of boost before this retune that was probably headed to around ~25psi territory. That is potentially a lot more power than is supposedly safe on the stock internals so it wouldn't stretch the imagination to be piston failure or other engine problem. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 21:01
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So, I've finally decided to replace my aging Buick Century that I've been driving for the past 13 years. I've always been a fan of Subarus, but it's been difficult to find one around here within my price range that also doesn't have a kajillion miles on it. I was fortunate enough to find someone selling a 2011 Impreza 2.5i with only 18k on it on craigslist. Seems to be the base model with a 5-speed. I was able to talk him down to $14k, which I believe to be a reasonable price. Still has 5 years and 52k on the warranty. Is there anything in particular that I have to be cautious with about this car? I haven't seen it in person yet, but something tells me it's going to be in perfect condition. I would have loved to get a WRX, but they're completely out of my price range for what I want, so I figure this is as good of a compromise as I'm going to get.
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Feb 17, 2013 22:54
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If you aren't getting a wrx try to find a 2012 impreza. It's a whole new car.
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Feb 17, 2013 23:14
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While I never looked into or drove a 2011 Impreza I am very pleased with my 2012 if you do have any questions Sackmo feel free to post or PM.
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Feb 17, 2013 23:55
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I've been looking around for short throw shifter options for my 2010 wrx and I can't really find any good info on the reason that the one you can buy from Subaru costs so much more and on the pictures, why it has so many more parts. Anyone know anything about that stuff??? Thanks in advance, everyone
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Feb 18, 2013 00:52
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Kartboy shifter.
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Feb 18, 2013 01:31
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Yep, do that. The SPT part replaces all of the linkage parts, which doesn't seem worth it. I would suggest all the bushings while you're at it though. I think I could come up with a package of some sort.
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Feb 18, 2013 01:37
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Sockington posted:Came home from a highway trip last night and noticed a coolant smell getting home. As someone who's had his fair share of coolant issues, I've had 1 blown upper hose, a thermostat and a radiator go. Unfortunately the hardest one to find immediately was the radiator because it only leaked under pressure. Subaru radiators are bound to leak. Also a fairly common place is the line from the turbo reservoir to the turbo but try to let your car idle and rev the motor up.
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Feb 18, 2013 15:44
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