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Sagebrush posted:e: z3n, I'm probably going to need to get this bored over somewhat. Can you recommend a place in the bay area? Engine Dynamics in Petaluma does good work: http://www.enginedynamics.com/ They even welded a cracked aluminum cam cap for me once.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:56
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| # ? May 29, 2024 04:38 |
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Is that the place that did the port/flow on your KLR head?
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Feb 25, 2013 22:09
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Took the DR350 to work and back yesterday; everyone at work looked at me like I was insane for riding this early in the year, but everyone in the locker room got a kick out of my hi-viz yellow helmet. Filled it up on the way home and got 50mpg, but this was the first time i actually rode it, instead of just starting it up every so often out back. I would have taken the DRZ400SM but I didn't have time to get it out of the garage after dropping my kid off. Oh well, next time!
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Feb 26, 2013 13:28
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Played Nicky Hayden on a cold, worn out rear tire, 33 degree weather and salty roads. Wheeeeeeee.
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Feb 26, 2013 16:05
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Yesterday: Took my sister's sidestand switch off, discovered it was jammed closed and even when pulled out with pliers, would no longer work so ordered a new one. Booked the DRZ-SM in for an MOT. Today: Checked the SM over before MOT. Found the horn wasnae working. Strip it down, wonder at the cat's nest of wires behind the headlight (-E converted to road legal -SM by PO). Seems I'd broken one of the tabs off the horn when crashing. Swore at bike and lack of any solder or (quick-drying glue) for 45 minutes. Tried gluing left grip back on, but neither hair spray nor quick-tack had any effect. Threw it all back together, rode to MOT and have hilarious amounts of fun being on a bike for the first time in 2 months. Horn decides to work when testing (dodgiest connection ever). So I've got an MOT, just need new back tyre and front brake pads soonish. Come home to the strains of Kenny Loggins and Top Gun (trying out new intercom bluetooth connection). Then, manage to revive the ER-5's sidestand switch with copious application of pliers and penetrating spray. So two bikes back on the road. Just need to fiddle with the universal clutch cable on the CB400 and the stable will be fully running again.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:55
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The VFR is making an odd noise. It sounds like a plastic bag in the wind. I thought it might be the chain or fairings but everything is in spec and looks good. I double checked all the fairing fasteners and they're all tight. Its only audible on accel/decel while riding above 20 mph. If im over 5500 rpm the exhaust note drowns it out. Any suggestions on what it might be?
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Feb 27, 2013 21:08
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Chain issues?
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Feb 27, 2013 21:21
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Do you have a thing of tic tacs in your pocket?
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Feb 27, 2013 21:22
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Z3n posted:Chain issues? The chain is good, I went over it last night. Something else I should have said; If I clutch out the noise goes away even if I hold the rpms. Its kind of like a vibration noise, but everything is buttoned down well and secure. I cant even tell where its coming from as the bike only does it under power. There are no tic tacs or other loose chachkis. At first I thought it might be my keys, so I removed all but the bike key. Then I thought chain so I checked it and made a slight adjustment so it was in spec. I dont think it's top end noise because its only present under accel/decel. I doubt it's wheel bearings because it goes away if I clutch in. The bike rides fine, no issues but this noise.
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Feb 27, 2013 21:38
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Do you ride with a bag over your head?
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Feb 27, 2013 21:41
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KARMA! posted:Do you ride with a bag over your head? Only on the weekends with my wife... if I'm good she let's me cut eye holes in it.
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Feb 27, 2013 21:43
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Only on the weekends with my wife... if I'm good she let's me cut eye holes in it. Well at least you're smart enough not to let willard's wife cut the eye holes for you.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:08
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Took it apart to paint it. Can you imagine how many welds there are in there  
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Feb 27, 2013 22:10
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Replaced the battery, after it died with alarming speed (combination of very cold weather, and only short trips thanks to the cold weather, did for it in the end). Perhaps not coincidentally, it was also the only Japanese component on the bike. I've replaced it with one made in the USA. Erm. Anyway what a fucker of a job that was. Why are all bike manufacturers seemingly in some kind of competition to mount the battery in the weirdest loving place, with the terminals as inaccessible as possible? Also one of the bolts on the clamp disintegrated the moment I touched it, and yet somehow the remnants were made out of loving diamond. Eventually drilled the head off - hardly seems worth replacing the rest as the stud remainder holds it pretty hard, and there's another bolt also holding it in. Took almost half an hour to get the battery out - some sort of matter had got into the bay and was causing enough stiction to effectively weld it in place. At first I worried it was leaked acid (given the speed of the demise) but when I eventually got into it I realised it was just accumulated road filth that had got in down the side of the battery box. (Breaking this involved a frankly ingenious use of a pallet knife and a tin of WD-40, because batteries are exactly like cakes stuck in the tin apparently (yes i do use WD-40 on my cakes)). The new battery was also a couple of mm wider than the old (probably in imperial rather than metric because  or some poo poo, requiring the use of a little of the vaseline I'd already used on the terminals to ease its passage. Then, as is also always inevitably the case when you touch a battery, the cables had shortened by 10%. Eventually got the positive on but it was sitting right across the terminal. Thankfully this is one good feature of the battery (MotoBatt, since you ask) which has two sets of terminals, so I just used the other neutral terminal. Finally get everything back in place, bike starts first time, woo loving hoo.Did I mention that all of this was done in the garden, at night, with a hand (or frequently mouth)-held torch my only means of illumination, at 2 degrees centigrade? gently caress it, my next bike's going to have a kick starter.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:44
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Took it apart to paint it. Can you imagine how many welds there are in there I'm starting to think that thing is actually welded well and someone went over the good welds with birdshit welds to troll CA. Who are the lucky guys who get to put their lives in that awesome welders hands?
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Feb 27, 2013 22:52
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Anyway what a fucker of a job that was. Why are all bike manufacturers seemingly in some kind of competition to mount the battery in the weirdest loving place, with the terminals as inaccessible as possible? Honda loses! Total procedure required to access the battery on ~my CL350~ that I talk about alllll the time: 1. pull latch and flip up seat
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Feb 27, 2013 22:56
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Is there a good way to deal with the little square metal nuts that go inside/underneath the battery terminals on most bikes? It always takes me a few (dozen) tries to get the battery bolts started.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:58
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Sagebrush posted:Honda loses! Total procedure required to access the battery on ~my CL350~ that I talk about alllll the time: That's two steps  Either way, it's the same on the SV650. Suzuki: just as E: My FZ6's battery is shoved under the tank. Remove seat (which is a duo), remove tank bolts, lift tank, brace tank to prevent it from falling, do battery things. Thanks Yamaha. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 27, 2013 |
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Feb 27, 2013 23:17
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Dont even need to pull the seat to do battery things on a DRZ 
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Feb 27, 2013 23:21
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Was it a BMW that required partial removal of the swingarm to access the battery?
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Feb 27, 2013 23:41
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Was it a BMW that required partial removal of the swingarm to access the battery? TDM baby!!  Well, you can wiggle it out though the tiny gap between the suspension and frame if you're dexterous enough I suppose. The BMW has a cool clutch that sits right smack dab in the middle of everything though. That's awesome as well.
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Feb 28, 2013 00:32
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KARMA! posted:The BMW has a cool clutch that sits right smack dab in the middle of everything though. That's awesome as well. Clutch replacement on a R1200GS. Step one:  
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Feb 28, 2013 01:21
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Ordered an 09+ 675 exhaust header off eBay for $100 shipped and three header-to-head gaskets off BikeBandit. I'm doing the 09 swap. Wee...
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Feb 28, 2013 01:44
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Whoah, twisto, that's a helluva trip for just replacing the battery. I did mine on Sunday, biggest "whoah" for me was that it was the 2006 original - with the bar and shield embossed on it. I think there are only two of those left on the bike now.
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Feb 28, 2013 02:48
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Who are the lucky guys who get to put their lives in that awesome welders hands?
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Feb 28, 2013 02:51
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BlackMK4 posted:Ordered an 09+ 675 exhaust header off eBay for $100 shipped and three header-to-head gaskets off BikeBandit. I'm doing the 09 swap. Wee... What changes?
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Feb 28, 2013 15:37
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Safety Dance posted:Is there a good way to deal with the little square metal nuts that go inside/underneath the battery terminals on most bikes? It always takes me a few (dozen) tries to get the battery bolts started. Remove the terminal bolts and square nuts. Take a piece of rubber 1/4" tubing (like fuel line, vent hose, w/e). Stick it in the side of the terminal, where you insert the square nut. Snip the tube off at terminal. Insert nut so that the tubing piece is beneath it like a cushion. From the side it will look like this lovely ASCII diagram: |=| |O| The "=" is the nut, and the "O" is the tube piece. Now the nuts are high enough for the bolt threads to catch, but the bolt can still go through the nut if needed, just pushing against the tube/cushion. You can also use a small piece of sponge or soft foam, but I find the tubing easier to deal with, install, etc. HTH
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Feb 28, 2013 16:37
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Me. And the welder. Oy, well, good luck!
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Feb 28, 2013 17:48
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Zool posted:What changes? Off the top of my head - first gear is taller 500rpm increase in redline new oil pan gasket that acts as a windage tray new oil pressure relief valve to increase oil pressure oil dipstick changed to increase oil fill capacity more webbing/bracing on the bottom end to decrease the flexibility of the case that was causing spun bearings different coating on the wrist pins (known weak point) hydraulic cam chain tensioner bunch of changes in the head on the exhaust side port wise and a different exhaust cam
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Feb 28, 2013 20:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Ordered an 09+ 675 exhaust header off eBay for $100 shipped and three header-to-head gaskets off BikeBandit. I'm doing the 09 swap. Wee... Sell me your old header.
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Feb 28, 2013 22:22
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http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2013/02/back-on-two-wheels-cb360.html Stripped it to the ground. Then... Rebuilt the front end and caliper, painted a bunch of bits, and put the big pieces back together:        
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Mar 1, 2013 06:02
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Z3n posted:Sell me your old header. I can ship it tomorrow if you're serious. Still has the o2 sensor but I've removed all the poo poo off the exup (cables/cover). The header coming has that stuff still attached if you want it and don't mind waiting. Need anything else engine wise? I'll be parting out the old motor (sensors, case covers, stator, etc) when the new one comes. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 07:13
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My track bike has been buried in the garage on stands for the last few months while I did some painting and wait for the suspension to come back from the tuners, but tonight I dug it out and continued some work. Finally reaching that point where I get to mount all the goodies. I scored a full TI exhaust system for $300 which I mounted tonight. I'd never mounted headers on an I4 before and it was kind of a pain in the rear end but the system looks great. Also did fluids, relocated the master-on switch (no key) to a better place, put both sets of wheels back together, mounted up the brembo MC & calipers. Getting down to the final stretch... ohlins & emulators back from the shop, mount the plastics for the final time, toss some stomp pads over the fresh paint, slap it on the dyno to hone the tune and then its off to the first track day of the year. 2007 GSXR 600 - acquired for $1500 + SV GSXR front end 2011 WMRRA podium bike, partially parted and sold to the owner I bought it from, where it sat all 2012 till I picked it up in October. Goodies it came with: - Good motor with a recent refresh & light top end work - Obsessively clean safety wire and track prep job, key delete - Full Yoshimura racing harness & ECU w/ Quickshifter, multiple maps & 'pit speed limiter' - Quick change axle dealies - New chain, box of sprockets - Absolutely ruined plastics I've since added: - Full TI exhaust - Shorai lightweight battery - Fork cartriges from local race shop - Ohlins TTX rear shock, re-spring and service - Ohlins damper (would prefer a scotts but got the ohlins cheap, stock damper was rebuilt to be way stiff, didn't care for it) - Spare wheels - Brembo MC from my SV track bike - R6 monoblocks & EBC HH pads (love these) - New plastics & full custom paint job, DIY w/ paint gun- went all out, lots of effort, happy with the result. Learned a lot. I'll be taking that and the KTM 450 in Supermoto trim to the track every event this year. Absolutely cannot wait to get started, and to finally have a little bit of horse power after having to earn every pass tooth and nail on the SV... aww yeah. FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 08:44
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Spiffness posted:- Fork emulators & re-spring from local race shop You're getting the terminology wrong, emulators are a modification to damping rod forks (SV560 stock) to make them perform a bit more like a cartridge fork (GSXR600 stock). You got new 25mm cartridges. Did they set everything at a recommended starting point? Did you tell Barry to finish my forks?
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Mar 1, 2013 15:08
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BlackMK4 posted:I can ship it tomorrow if you're serious. Still has the o2 sensor but I've removed all the poo poo off the exup (cables/cover). The header coming has that stuff still attached if you want it and don't mind waiting. I want to tear it apart and try removing the cat/etc from it and welding up a replacement. No rush on shipping it, only care about the header assembly itself  Send me a pm and we can work out thr details
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Mar 1, 2013 16:46
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Zool posted:Did you tell Barry to finish my forks? He's got a week before I go and get my stuff...
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Mar 1, 2013 18:51
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Installed the mount for my new satnav, I hope the mount will stand up to the vibrations of anything but an i4. Wish there was a way to secure the actual unit to the handlebars with a string or something just to be sure. It's lovely that to putting together the mount involves a combination of philips screws and nylock nuts, not a good combination. Also, the kit doesn't includes rings for the battery terminals. Still it's nice that the bike's lack of an actual tank (and its loosely fitting covers) makes it easy to route wires through there.  (That crap in the grooves on the letters? Turtle wax...)
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Mar 1, 2013 20:42
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Get in there with a toothpick, man
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Mar 1, 2013 21:08
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I'd just pull it and paint it!
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Mar 1, 2013 21:17
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Broke off the loving footpeg! I was riding the Bonneville home from work. My keys were digging into my right leg, so I stood up on the pegs and tried to shake them into a better position. Suddenly my right foot slips and is hanging in midair. I stop, walk back, there's my peg in the weeds. The bolt appears to have sheared. This is surprising to me, because sure I'm kinda fat but so are the old British men who also ride these things.
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Mar 2, 2013 03:21
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