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Is the dripping sound coming from the bowl or the tank?
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Feb 26, 2013 03:15
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kid sinister posted:Is the dripping sound coming from the bowl or the tank? Sounds like it's coming from the bowl or below the bowl. It starts immediately if any liquid's added to the bowl, then I can't tell if the dripping sound keeps going when I flush but after the flush finishes I still hear the dripping sound for a couple minutes.
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Feb 26, 2013 03:46
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Melraidin posted:Sounds like it's coming from the bowl or below the bowl. It starts immediately if any liquid's added to the bowl, then I can't tell if the dripping sound keeps going when I flush but after the flush finishes I still hear the dripping sound for a couple minutes. Adjust the ballcock in the tank so the water level is 1 inch below the over flow. That 1 inch tube sticking up through the water vertical is the over flow. Technically its really used to flush the walls of the tank . If you have a picture of the brand of the replacement kit you installed I could better instruct you how to adjust it. Nomrally it's a phillips screw or slot to adjust it. Turn it clock wise and flush and see where the water goes too.
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Feb 27, 2013 03:46
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I have a 1920's house, 2 bed 1 bath. I would like to add at least a toilet, but ideally a toilet and a sink. I have had two contractors take a look in the basement and they both gave me estimates of 10k to add a toilet and sink. I'm not looking for fancy, just a place to poop. I do not care about having a slightly raised floor under the toilet. The clearance in the basement is about 7&3/4ft. The main stack is cast/lead pour. In the basement I cannot see where the sink drains so I assume it drains into the stack behind the walls above the basement (the sink drain is 90* into wall.) The line from the tub is PVC. The gutters drain into cast pipes that then run form the front of the house to a cistern in the back yard (only use to water lawn so don't mind losing.) Into that same pipe (orange) the washer and wash basin drain (pvc) So with my goals of a)not spending 10k and b) adding a toilet, does it look possible to do in the basement or (after I bring water up to the attic) place a toilet on that stack? I feel like my main limitation in the basement is venting. And as a side question, are cast pipes worth enough in scrap to justify dismantling the cistern run and/or replacing the main stack with pvc? I would only do the main stack if I were adding a toilet into the mix somewhere. And would hire a plumber to tell me what to do.
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Feb 27, 2013 17:30
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Garbage disposal stopped working a few weeks ago. When I hit the switch I can hear the motor turn on but I can't tell if it's broken or if something is just inhibiting it from rotating the blades. I've cleaned out the sink area by hand and haven't found anything that could be causing a jam. I was going to ask if it's a good idea to fix the thing or not but I just realized a garbage disposal only costs between 60-120 bucks on Amazon and the one I have probably came with the house. How easy are these things for a complete amateur to install?
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Feb 27, 2013 17:58
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Orange_Lazarus posted:Garbage disposal stopped working a few weeks ago. When I hit the switch I can hear the motor turn on but I can't tell if it's broken or if something is just inhibiting it from rotating the blades. I've cleaned out the sink area by hand and haven't found anything that could be causing a jam. If you have an existing disposal (that was installed correctly) placing it should be a relatively simple task. Make sure to flip off the breaker so you do not electrocute yourself. Garbage disposals have a "screw" on the bottom that can be used to unstick blades. You just need an allen key and some leverage.
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Feb 27, 2013 18:18
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Ah! I wasn't aware of the port to un-stick the blades, I'll try that when I get home.
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Feb 27, 2013 18:21
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Hi guys, so I was setting up a new sink to a wall. As soon as I connected the pipes to my main, warm water started coming out. So I removed the tile, as it turns out I nicked a pipe buried under the rendering. Not one of my proudest moments  Any one know of a trick I could do with?This is the infamous pipe:  Thanks 
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Feb 27, 2013 21:01
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ilmouzer posted:Hi guys, so I was setting up a new sink to a wall. As soon as I connected the pipes to my main, warm water started coming out. So I removed the tile, as it turns out I nicked a pipe buried under the rendering. Not one of my proudest moments Is that copper? If so, dig out more on both sides, pipe cut the affected area, solder on two unions with small additional length.
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Feb 28, 2013 01:53
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Adjust the ballcock in the tank so the water level is 1 inch below the over flow. That 1 inch tube sticking up through the water vertical is the over flow. Technically its really used to flush the walls of the tank . If you have a picture of the brand of the replacement kit you installed I could better instruct you how to adjust it. Nomrally it's a phillips screw or slot to adjust it. Turn it clock wise and flush and see where the water goes too. I appreciate the suggestion but unfortunately this hasn't helped. The water level is already about 1.5" below the overflow tube. Watching within the tank when the dripping sound is occurring (after liquid's added to the bowl and after flushing) shows no apparent movement. This one's really a mystery to me. I'm no plumber but I've taken apart my fair share of toilets (by "fair share" I mean my dad made me help when he was fixing the crappers after I put something stupid down them when I was younger). The only explanation I could come up with, though I don't think it's right, is that the water level of the bowl is right at the water level in the trap and it's sitting _just_ below the level it'd need to flow over the trap. That'd mean that any added liquid to the bowl would cause a flow over the trap.
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Feb 28, 2013 07:02
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Melraidin posted:I appreciate the suggestion but unfortunately this hasn't helped. The water level is already about 1.5" below the overflow tube. Watching within the tank when the dripping sound is occurring (after liquid's added to the bowl and after flushing) shows no apparent movement. This is how traps work, and it's normal. Some toilets are designed so the water in the trap runs down the side, but some just drip off the edge. You may have cracked something in the toilet if there's water pooling at the base. It's easy to overtighten the tank bolts, or not tighten them symmetrically, causing leaking. Try just pouring water into the bowl until you hear the drip. If you get water pooling, then suspect that there's a crack inside the base somewhere, especially if you're 100% sure you installed the wax ring properly.
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Feb 28, 2013 08:45
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Tim Thomas posted:Is that copper? If so, dig out more on both sides, pipe cut the affected area, solder on two unions with small additional length. No we don't use copper here, plastic tubes. I've managed to cut the affected area (that's limestone brick btw), luckily the piping had a connection under the same tile, since water is distributed to the sink and bath so I'll cut that later this evening after work. Also, what are the benefits of copper piping over plastic? I always used plastic before it's easy to install and I'm no plumber. I'm soon having my kitchen redone, I might consider copper over plastic.
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Feb 28, 2013 15:11
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I have a 1920's house, 2 bed 1 bath. I would like to add at least a toilet, but ideally a toilet and a sink. I have had two contractors take a look in the basement and they both gave me estimates of 10k to add a toilet and sink. I'm not looking for fancy, just a place to poop. I do not care about having a slightly raised floor under the toilet. The clearance in the basement is about 7&3/4ft. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 16:03
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Nitrox posted:See my drawing as to what contractors are looking to do. Gray rectangle is an area of concrete that they will have to dig out to attach new drain branch to existing stack. Your new bathroom floor would not be raised. If you just want a toilet in the basement without digging the concrete, the cheapest way would be to move that gray rectangle up above the floor, and build up a pedestal for a toilet to sit on. Or spend money on a drain system that runs off an electric pump. http://www.libertypumps.com/Products/Category/SubCategory/Product/?p=36&s=0&c=21 So it is ok to tap into that stack and use it as a vent even though a toilet is above it?
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Feb 28, 2013 16:11
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:So it is ok to tap into that stack and use it as a vent even though a toilet is above it? Nitrox fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Feb 28, 2013 |
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Feb 28, 2013 16:17
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Nitrox posted:You don't need a new vent for every toilet. Here is example of building above concrete http://i.imgur.com/FYsWIgF.jpg So that is a great setup I would like to copy. In my house the floor vent is in between the cisterns drain and the main stack. Is there a way to test so I don't have poop hanging out in the floor drain?
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Feb 28, 2013 16:29
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:So that is a great setup I would like to copy. In my house the floor vent is in between the cisterns drain and the main stack. Is there a way to test so I don't have poop hanging out in the floor drain?
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Feb 28, 2013 16:51
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We've been experiencing some backup into our laundry tub when we run the shower or washing machine. We had a plumber come out today that got it flowing, but says that the pipes are full of grease and he recommends hydroscrubbing it out. Is this a legitimate process? He says his company does not do that work, for what it's worth. He did recommend a different company for it.
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Feb 28, 2013 21:33
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I have a 1920's house, 2 bed 1 bath. I would like to add at least a toilet, but ideally a toilet and a sink. http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-39018-Sure-Vent-Admittance-Adapter/dp/B000H5SLWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362108076&sr=8-1&keywords=studor+vent Orange_Lazarus posted:Garbage disposal stopped working a few weeks ago. When I hit the switch I can hear the motor turn on but I can't tell if it's broken or if something is just inhibiting it from rotating the blades. I've cleaned out the sink area by hand and haven't found anything that could be causing a jam. I agree check to see if its blocked up or not. And they are easy to replace. Melraidin posted:I appreciate the suggestion but unfortunately this hasn't helped. The water level is already about 1.5" below the overflow tube. Watching within the tank when the dripping sound is occurring (after liquid's added to the bowl and after flushing) shows no apparent movement. If its not the flapper then it could be a problem with the toilet itself. ilmouzer posted:No we don't use copper here, plastic tubes. I've managed to cut the affected area (that's limestone brick btw), luckily the piping had a connection under the same tile, since water is distributed to the sink and bath so I'll cut that later this evening after work. Copper costs a lot more to install. It does look nice but a lot of stuff can affect it. Pex is nice in the fact that you can bend it, it doesnt transfer heat if its touching a hot pipe. And it's a little more freeze resistant. Veinless posted:We've been experiencing some backup into our laundry tub when we run the shower or washing machine. We had a plumber come out today that got it flowing, but says that the pipes are full of grease and he recommends hydroscrubbing it out. Is this a legitimate process? I'd just get a drain bladder. Hook it up to a warm water supply. Like the drain on your water heater. I also have a valve near the drain bladder to control it since you don't want it full pressure all the time or it will pop it. The warm water helps desolve the grease. http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Product...s=drain+bladder I used a garden sprayer as my control valve. http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Pisto...=garden+sprayer Then just attach the bladder to a shorter 4 ft house and start having fun. Since its not clogged now you may also get away with just running hot water down it for a little while. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 04:20
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I just finished the demo of our master bathroom. It's down to wall studs and subfloor, for the most part. Whoever renovated this bathroom last chose to keep the plumbing above the floor, by building a box over it along the back wall, and building the tub on a raised platform. Trouble is, we bought a free-standing tub that we don't want to build up, so the plumbing needs to go under the floor - and the studs run the wrong way. The studs are 2x8s that are spaced 1.5 feet apart. The tub is supposed to go on the other end of the bathroom from the stack, meaning I'd have to run the drain line through 6 or 7 studs. Can I get away with this? Do I need to do some reinforcing, and if so, how would I go about it?  Picture for reference. Added crappy plumbing lines in black to my wife's nice autocad drawing. The vanity plumbing, and copper for the tub, will stay above the floor in a half wall we're going to build. Only the tub drain line has to be under the floor. The studs run top to bottom. Any advice greatly appreciated! Somebody fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 15:08
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You could take the tub drain North towards the lav then run the wall and top of the rim joist. Then fur it out later. Other option is depending on the type of joist you have you can drill them but only certain parts of them.
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Mar 1, 2013 15:27
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:By code every fixture should have a toilet. In that situation you could use a studorr vent.   So this is the space directly underneath the existing bath. And the bottom of the stack. So I would like either a rough in under the foundation or one floating on the floor. About how much would either of these options cost (Just the rough in, or tapping the existing stack if I go above the foundation)? I just don't know how to tap into the stack, and it sounds like the type of job I should hire out. Sorry if I am being dense here. I guess at this point what do I tell a plumber I need, and is there a special type of plumber I need to call? Should I just call the local union? vvv You're welcome. Glad to hear it worked. EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 16:19
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:If you have an existing disposal (that was installed correctly) placing it should be a relatively simple task. Make sure to flip off the breaker so you do not electrocute yourself. Garbage disposals have a "screw" on the bottom that can be used to unstick blades. You just need an allen key and some leverage. Thanks again, I got home that night and instantly fixed the disposal with a single turn of the allen wrench.
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Mar 1, 2013 17:30
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:
No you are fine. I'd rather tie into the stack above grade of the floor but it will cost you a lot more hire out to have someone plumb it below the slab. You will save money if you cut out the slab and dig a some of it for him. Personal I think a just cutting in above the line and have it run under the floor joist against the outer wall then roll up into the joist for the toilet would be the best option. I'd suggest non union because you will pay a lot more for union work. And this doesnt mean its better. Also get multiple bids, don't take the first one. See who is the cheapest and the most expensive. Price doesnt always mean it's better work. It's hard to say who will be the best plumber but look how they carry themselfs and you can usually get a good idea. Though looking at that picture closer I think that whole stack is just an abortion of people not knowing what the are doing. That P trap is interesting to say the least. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 01:58
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The seal on my toilet tank seems to have gone out, it leaks between the tank and the seat when I flush. Are replacements generic enough to find at hardware store or are they mfgr specific? Do I need to use some kind of sealant when replacing it?
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Mar 2, 2013 02:36
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peepsalot posted:The seal on my toilet tank seems to have gone out, it leaks between the tank and the seat when I flush. Most of the time the generic ones work. Try pulling the gasket and bringing it to the hardware store.
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Mar 2, 2013 10:47
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Most of the time the generic ones work. Try pulling the gasket and bringing it to the hardware store. Do this. 14 months ago, I fought with my guest toilet over gasket sizes because the first "universal" gasket I bought didn't actually fit. 
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Mar 2, 2013 14:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:No you are fine. I'd rather tie into the stack above grade of the floor but it will cost you a lot more hire out to have someone plumb it below the slab. You will save money if you cut out the slab and dig a some of it for him. Personal I think a just cutting in above the line and have it run under the floor joist against the outer wall then roll up into the joist for the toilet would be the best option. So when I'm calling I'm calling plumber I am asking for someone to cut into the stack and install a 3" opening? Or can I use that other part of the Y in the foundation with the cap over it? Is this what you are suggesting with the floor? 
EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 15:25
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:So when I'm calling I'm calling plumber I am asking for someone to cut into the stack and install a 3" opening? Sorry I got you mixed up with someone else. With you I would rather see it below the concrete but it will be a lot more expensive but the above grade will be one of those things a future owner will rip out and do right.
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Mar 2, 2013 18:00
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:This is how traps work, and it's normal. Some toilets are designed so the water in the trap runs down the side, but some just drip off the edge. You may have cracked something in the toilet if there's water pooling at the base. It's easy to overtighten the tank bolts, or not tighten them symmetrically, causing leaking. Adding water to the bowl causes the dripping noise but no pooling around the base at all. As it is now I'm not worried about damage or anything; everything seems to be working fine. It's just more of a mystery to me where the dripping is coming from. It wasn't present before taking the toilet off, now it's there. I don't have a dripping noise with any other toilet in the house. I've tried lowering the fill level in the tank with no change to the dripping. The only thing I can think of is that when I put the toilet back on some gap was left or something causing the water flowing over the trap to drip over the edge instead of running down the side. No idea how that could be the case or how I might resolve it but I'd love to hear other ideas. I've tried everything you all have suggested so far but just can't seem to solve this minor plumbing mystery.
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Mar 3, 2013 05:57
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My master bathroom shower has ridiculously low water pressure to the point that I stopped using it about a year ago and pretty much only shower in the guest bath. I figured the causes for the low pressure would be as follows: 1) leak 2) half-opened shutoff valve 3) increase in pipe diameter somewhere along the way. Well, I went into the crawlspace this morning to check a few things out and I have confirmed that there's no leak under the mater bathroom as all the insulation and subflooring looked good. I also didn't see any shutoff valves under there. What I did see were two 1/2" PVC pipes running up through the subfloor near the bathtub's drain. I assume this means the shower and bathtub are on the same hot and cold water lines, which is fine. Is it safe to assume that the difference in pressure compared to the guest bathroom can be attributed to the pipe in the drywall between the master bathtub and shower? I'm reluctant to tear out drywall and go looking since I've never had to repair drywall. That said, I'm willing to learn! 
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Mar 3, 2013 17:12
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pseudonordic posted:My master bathroom shower has ridiculously low water pressure to the point that I stopped using it about a year ago and pretty much only shower in the guest bath. I figured the causes for the low pressure would be as follows: Do you have decent bath faucet flow? Or shower stall only? How is the pressure/flow with the shower head taken off? Where is the bathroom in relation to the hot water heater? Completely other side of the house? Drywall isn't hard to reapir, just takes a couple days to do it right. Mud, dry, sand, mud dry sand, etc
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Mar 3, 2013 19:29
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:You probably have but starting with the basics: Thanks for the info! The bath faucet flow is fine. It's just the shower that seems to be lacking pressure. The pressure doesn't change when I remove the shower head. Our water heater is in the crawlspace and is maybe 36" tall at the most. The tank's under the south-west corner of the house where the crawlspace height is the highest. The guest bath is nearly dead center of the house. The master bath is on the north side of the house and is closer to the east side of the house. Looking back at the inspector's report from when we bought 4 years ago, it looks like the water pressure from the hose bib is ~43 PSI. There is a flow regulator at the water meter. I might look at that next.
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Mar 3, 2013 19:40
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Hydro-jet pipe cleaning: "You can see how devastating the effect of the water is in the chicken. It literally rips the chicken into pieces." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dvd1lIJ2kJY I'm buying a 1920s house that has its clay sewer pipe currently blocked by roots. I'm trying to evaluate whether hydro-jetting or auger would be better to clean it. What do you think? * We had a sewer-inspector come to scope out the sewer line. It was so blocked he couldn't even send the probe all the way to the street, so we don't know the pipe condition. He said that hydro-jetting would be the best solution, and that an auger runs the risk of damaging the clay pipes further. (He doesn't offer plumbing services, so he's a disinterested party). The sellers agreed to do hydro-jetting. * The sellers got comment from two plumbing companies they currently work with, neither of which offer hydro-jetting. Both companies said that a 4" robust auger would do the job with less risk of damaging the clay pipes. * We're resigned to spending about $8k-$10k within a few years to do a pipe-bursting replacement of the sewer line. We just wanted the sellers to get a video scope all the way to the street so there wouldn't be unexpected surprises. Who's telling the truth? Which is better for old clay pipes, hydro-jetting or auger? http://fixitfastplumbing.com/html/sewer_drain_rooter_cleaning.html
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Mar 6, 2013 05:45
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I'm trying to fit a CPVC bulkhead fitting(or another solution) to this pipe. Will the part #36895K832 on this page work? If not what are my other options? I'm trying to join this pipe to the side wall of a tank similar to this. If you're wondering this is for a senior design project so it's not something that's traditional.
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Mar 6, 2013 06:06
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Melraidin posted:Adding water to the bowl causes the dripping noise but no pooling around the base at all. Consider this a non-issue then. The dripping is due to the specific make and model of toilet installed in its specific location. No water = no problem. Unless you are going to forever lose sleep about it, do your best to forget it. The toilet in the hotel I'm in now does this. One of the toilets in my friend's apartment does this. This is just something that some toilets do. To repeat: NO LEAK = NO PROBLEM.
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Mar 6, 2013 08:42
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huhu posted:I'm trying to fit a CPVC bulkhead fitting(or another solution) to this pipe. Will the part #36895K832 on this page work? If not what are my other options? I'm trying to join this pipe to the side wall of a tank similar to this. If you're wondering this is for a senior design project so it's not something that's traditional. What is going to be flowing through this system? Gravity pressure only? Does it need to be watertight? And how pretty does it need to be?
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Mar 6, 2013 17:24
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:What is going to be flowing through this system? Gravity pressure only? Does it need to be watertight? And how pretty does it need to be? Water, gravity pressure, watertight, ugly.
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Mar 6, 2013 17:49
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huhu posted:Water, gravity pressure, watertight, ugly. Buy a tube of caulk (the little toothpaste size is more than enough) Buy PVC adhesive 2 options: a. Buy a flange & socket -Cut hole in bucket -Place caulk all around hole -Screw flange into place b. Buy a valve socket & plastic nut. -Drill a hole sized for the threaded section -Place caulk all around the hole (inside and out) -Tighten plastic nut onto valve socked Use pvc adhesive to connect pipe to socket.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:15
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Buy a tube of caulk (the little toothpaste size is more than enough)
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Mar 6, 2013 21:45
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