|
SwashedBuckles posted:Make sure the odometer is actually working. The gears in the cluster get brittle and break. They don't get brittle, the petroleum based lubricant they used back then turns them into goop. The new ones you get to replace them are a graphite-infused plastic that self lubricates as it wears and will outlive the car.
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2013 15:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 18:07 |
|
|
No, the broken odometer gears I pulled out of my 240 were definitely chipped, not goop (and were completely dry of any lubricant).
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2013 15:58
|
|
|
Yeah, not really sure where you are getting the goop thing, when I did the odometer gear on my cousins 240 one was cracked in half but still plenty solid. And there was no lubricant on them anywhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2013 18:54
|
|
|
I parked next to a guy with a 240 nearly identical to mine (his was a different color and a year newer) and we complimented each other on our cars. Then I pulled out and my charging system decided it wasn't good enough and started working only halfway until I hit ~3k rpm. Headlights at half brightness, flickering instrument panel lights, no radio, etc. The alternator belt should be the first thing I check, right?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2013 20:26
|
|
|
At any rate it is a no go. Paint clearcoat coming up and looks worse than the pics. I couldn't tell if the odometer was broken or not but I definitely didn't get the low-miles vibe. I checked the wiring harness as mentioned and it seemed OK. A quick look underneath showed it was leaking something off the back of the motor enough to where I could see a couple droplets forming. Did seem to run smooth, but I got the high-miles vibe from the rough interior. I low-ball offered $1250 and offended his honor and was sent on my way.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2013 20:26
|
|
|
06 manual d5 s60, anything terrible to watch out for?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2013 22:35
|
|
|
I give up on my 95 940. I think at this point the fuel pump is dead, or it has electrical issues. I got tired of dealing with beaters, so I bought a car with a warranty. It makes me kinda sad, I really loved the big slow purple wagon. But I guess paying $1,000 and driving it about 15k miles in 8 months with no other real maintenance costs (outside of oil, coolant, fuel) is pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
More drama in the Electrical Saga: one of the screw heads for the voltage regulator is stripped and I can't figure out how the gently caress to tighten the alternator belt. The Haynes repair manual says to loosen the locking nut and the nut on the other end of the "pivot bolt", and to use a wrench to turn the bolt to pivot the alternator, but turning the bolt the alternator pivots on doesn't move the alternator. I have a feeling the manual is lying to me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
alternate.eago posted:I give up on my 95 940. I think at this point the fuel pump is dead, or it has electrical issues. I got tired of dealing with beaters, so I bought a car with a warranty. Sad to hear. Is it up for grabs? If so where are you located?
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 03:50
|
|
|
Just bought an '81 242 4spd with OD parts car. It's in pretty decent nick and I was told that it ran well before it was parked. Since then mice have chewed most of the insulation on the wires. I took most of the parts off of the front end, but there's a lot of good bits like map pockets, rear markers, trim bits, original blaupunkt radio etc. If anyone needs anything make me an offer. I'm going to send it to the pick n pull in the next week or so
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2013 05:33
|
|
|
mafoose posted:Sad to hear. I haven't gotten rid of it yet. I'm in Maryland. If you are intrested shoot me an email (or PM me). Myusersname at the googlemail. The car is is really decent shape. It has a Yamikia Roof Rack, & gray cloth interior (with heated seats & mirrors), the drivers side mirror (glass only) is busted. I have a stack of receipts & maintenance records. My 2nd favorite thing about it is the color, its the metallic purpleish-gray (first favorite thing is that its a wagon). I really liked this thing for the time I drove it. I'm still pretty bummed about it dying, but with the new car, I'm up to 5 cars now. At least 2 of them have to go.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
alternate.eago posted:I haven't gotten rid of it yet. I'm in Maryland. If you are intrested shoot me an email (or PM me). Myusersname at the googlemail. drat, that's too far for me. My friend took a picture of my car I really liked: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2013 16:57
|
|
|
mafoose posted:drat, that's too far for me. That is the best goddamned color for a Volvo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2013 17:05
|
|
|
mafoose posted:drat, that's too far for me. Bummer. Oh well I'm tired of throwing parts at it, so I'm going to be calling one of the Craigslist "We buy junk cars" people. I hate to see it go like that it was in decent shape. Anyways. I'm gonna miss that car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
So I remember someone (most likely LloydDobler) saying to avoid the 2001 V70/S60 and go for 2002 and newer. Is there a significant reason? There's a very well-priced, relatively low mileage V70 T5M on my local CL that I'm considering picking up for my weekend trip car for biking and other assorted adventures. It wouldn't see a ton of use but I've always had a soft spot for Volvos and want something fun.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 05:21
|
|
|
alternate.eago posted:Bummer. Oh well I'm tired of throwing parts at it, so I'm going to be calling one of the Craigslist "We buy junk cars" people. I hate to see it go like that it was in decent shape. I'd come get it if I wasn't unemployed. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 05:30
|
|
|
VacaGrande posted:So I remember someone (most likely LloydDobler) saying to avoid the 2001 V70/S60 and go for 2002 and newer. Is there a significant reason? There's a very well-priced, relatively low mileage V70 T5M on my local CL that I'm considering picking up for my weekend trip car for biking and other assorted adventures. It wouldn't see a ton of use but I've always had a soft spot for Volvos and want something fun. 2001 had trans issues (designed to put trans in neutral at each stop) so unless it was reflashed and the trans was perfect I'd avoid like the plague. Plus being the first year of the new model. (1998-2000) (2001-2003ish) (2004-on ward) A T5M would be nice if everything checks out but I'd be cautious..
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 06:26
|
|
|
I'm sure it was me, and you should avoid 01 and 02, but mostly for the automatic transmission which is a $3000 time bomb, WITHOUT labor. And it's not because it's a bad tranny, it's because Volvo instructed owners to never change the oil. If you change the oil every 50k or less they last forever. It's the dumbest loving thing. Also the function where it shifted to neutral at a stop caused early failure of a lot of them. But they software recalled that and most autos don't have it anymore. I personally own an 01 T5M and it rocks. The other major things are little electrical glitches. For example I had a door module die in the cold weather that shut down my power window, lock, mirror, and thermometer. I had to replace my rear view mirror glass because the LCD autodim thing broke and fogged it up. And right now my driver's power door lock doesn't work, I have a spare unit sitting waiting to go in. I also had the intake pressure sensor die, ($80) and if it's anywhere near 100k in mileage it'll need a timing belt and PCV service, each are about $250 in parts and the same in labor. I've also had an evap hose go bad and it was only an $18 part but it's on top of the rear subframe and was an absolute bitch to get to. I've also had to replace all 4 shocks. Oh, and my sunroof mechanism is broken to poo poo and rattles and generally annoys me all the time but I'll be god damned if I'm pulling the headliner to replace it. Other than that the big ticket items guaranteed to go bad on an 01 manual are the throttle body ($500 but you only have to replace it once) and front suspension rubber, and possibly the ABS controller (rebuilt for $150). And at some point while you own it it'll need a radiator. I've done all those on mine except the ABS controller. But I've had it for almost 4 years and over 50k miles and it's never left me stranded, and I still love it as much as I did when I bought it. I'm definitely buying another one if it dies or gets wrecked. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Mar 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 08:16
|
|
|
Hey Dobler, I've got a 2010 C70 with about 50k miles on it and the automatic transmission seems to be already on its way out. 2nd to 3rd shifts real hard, even if you're babying it, and the rev programming of manu-matic mode seems so careless that actually using it for another other than shifting between 4th and 5th will send a shock through the drive train as the car suddenly changes speed because it's not intelligent enough to apply throttle correction with even pedal input. Aside from the non-adjustable rear camber requiring abnormally high tire rotation frequency, and the sloppy car computer software, it's an all right machine, and hands-down not a bad looking car at all. I love the T5, it takes off like a scalded rat when the weather is cool enough. Anyway the car is going in for a warrantied transmission fluid change soon and we'll see. I'd like to see it kept around for a bit, but I'm anxious in that if the transmission is bent on destroying itself it will not be economical to keep this car. Hell, I even like the fuel economy (computer says 27.4 average).
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 15:05
|
|
|
mafoose posted:drat, that's too far for me. Love the color  Did you get it professionally painted or DIY?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 18:22
|
|
|
Anybody have any recommendations on boost controllers or will any do? Is it worth hooking up the water lines to my turbo? I feel like sourcing the coolant reservoir, hoses, and water lines will be the cost of just getting another 15g in the off chance oil cakes in it for some reason. v  vAlso, my car was leaking oil for a while and now it randomly stopped. I just don't know anymore. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 20:26
|
|
|
grillster posted:Hey Dobler, I've got a 2010 C70 with about 50k miles on it and the automatic transmission seems to be already on its way out. 2nd to 3rd shifts real hard, even if you're babying it, and the rev programming of manu-matic mode seems so careless that actually using it for another other than shifting between 4th and 5th will send a shock through the drive train as the car suddenly changes speed because it's not intelligent enough to apply throttle correction with even pedal input. Aside from the non-adjustable rear camber requiring abnormally high tire rotation frequency, and the sloppy car computer software, it's an all right machine, and hands-down not a bad looking car at all. I love the T5, it takes off like a scalded rat when the weather is cool enough. I don't have any info on the newer cars, I don't even know what tranny is in it. But I've heard that anything from 03 onward is pretty reliable, and it might be that it's just a solenoid pack or valve body that's bad, not requiring a complete rebuild. Check the forums on swedespeed for your car and also the S40/V50 forum which uses the same platform, and see what people are saying about the auto trannies. If they're generally reliable, then you just got a bad one and it ought to be able to be fixed permanently, which might make it worth it to fix. I really want a hardtop C70 but I'm too cheap to buy one yet.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 21:12
|
|
|
98 v70, how much of a pain in the arse is a headlight wiper motor change? Also if I get on the gas too quick after putting it in drive there's a hell of a clunk, motor mounts?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:98 v70, how much of a pain in the arse is a headlight wiper motor change? Also if I get on the gas too quick after putting it in drive there's a hell of a clunk, motor mounts? That would be my first thought...start with the upper mount first that one wears out pretty quickly. I talked to the guys at IPD and they said that the trans mount rarely goes but that top one is pretty common for failing. A lot of guys will put in a poly bushing instead of rubber but unless ALL your mounts are in top shape I wouldn't recommend it because you'll get a lot of vibration coming through. A hacksaw through the rubber is the quickest way to get it out and getting the new one in takes a lot of beating with a large mallet or some guys rig up a bearing press using some plumbing flanges, a few BIG washers, and a long carriage bolt.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2013 00:56
|
|
|
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/3653985613.html Good buy? Friend needs temporary transportation while he looks for another bike. I'm thinking "yes"
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2013 20:50
|
|
|
Damnit, have I got the only year of V70 (98) that needs a scan tool to rest the service light? A lit service light is an MOT fail nowadays.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
Yep. Sorry. You could also pull the bulb, do they check for that?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 20:38
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Damnit, have I got the only year of V70 (98) that needs a scan tool to rest the service light? A lit service light is an MOT fail nowadays. The 'check engine' or the 'service' light? Cause those are two diff things... Check engine means there's an actual code that's popped, the service light is just a dummy light set for a certain mileage. There's a way to reset it but I forget what it is, I use it as my warm up timer because it goes off after about 1m:30s. The check engine can be reset with any OBDII handheld scanner. Edit (from matt's volvo) Volvo 850 (1996-1997) and S70, V70 (1998) You need an OBDII tool that resets Volvo service light codes. See this service light reset forum thread for more. They run about $100 to 200 — or — take it in to the dealer or independent Volvo mechanic and have them do it. Call to see if they charge for this first. Note: I’ve read reports of people having success with having the local Shucks/Pep Boys/Checker auto parts store do it. S70 and V70 and C70 and XC70 1.Press and hold odometer reset button 2.Turn ignition switch to Run 3.After SRL flashes, release odometer reset button 4.Confirm by turning your Volvo off, then on again Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Mar 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 21:10
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Yep. Sorry. You could also pull the bulb, do they check for that? I'm not sure but that sounds like a lot of work, I might as well keep the service reminder light & buy the tool. Oxphocker posted:The 'check engine' or the 'service' light? Cause those are two diff things... Service. That's the reset pattern from my '99, it can be reset that way on the '97 & '99, not the '98.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 21:50
|
|
|
If you have skinny hands you can reach the bulb from below without removing anything but the lower trim panel by your knees. Otherwise yeah you have to pop the upper dash cap off, which is about a 20 minute job. Hardly worth the $100-$200 for a reset tool that does one thing. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2013 22:36
|
|
|
So I am tossing around the idea of buying a V70 or some other fairly roomy Volvo wagon as a second car and using it as a daily driver / road trip vehicle. I would like to spend under 6k on it and have a fairly reliable vehicle. I live in southern california so there's several large cities I can leverage to find the vehicle, I'm just not sure what I should be looking out for. From reading the thread, it sounds like the 98-00 XCs are to be avoided, as well as the 00-04 V70s in general. What do you guys think of the non R or T5 '98-00 V70s? I don't really need something to haul rear end in, I have a STi, I just want to haul dogs and other random bullshit. I'm looking for something that will run for a long rear end time as long as I keep up with maintenance.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 06:39
|
|
|
Bulletproof, get one. E: my little brother went out to buy a transit connect, came home in an 855 t5. Good man.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 21:23
|
|
|
So my 850 has started making a light grinding noise in the 2.5k+ range in first gear, usually right before it shifts. 1. How bad is this? 2. Would this end up being a repair or a large part (transmission) replacement? I'm aware that Volvo instructed people not to change the transmission fluid on these cars, so I'm only surprised that this is happening relatively early at 98,000 miles.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 21:47
|
|
|
That's not early, though. While they told people never to change it in the manual, the world realized quickly that that was stupid. AFAIK, the recommended service interval is 50,000 miles for a pan drop+fill (this is not the same as a complete flush, which would be bad).
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2013 22:01
|
|
|
98 V70 T5 is the two wheel drive with turbo and still has the mechanical throttle as opposed to the ETM of the 99-00' models. As long as a volvo mechanic clears it, should be plenty good to use as a second car. Things to check: Tailgate struts (common fail) Tailgate inner panel rattle (IPD sells a fix kit) Driver/Passenger door window modules Last replacement of PCV system/timing belt/water pump? Trans in good shape?
|
|
#
?
Mar 6, 2013 00:35
|
|
|
Oxphocker covered the worst of it, but I'd also recommend checking out the oil cooler hoses between the block and radiator if you look at a '98 turbo model, since those all seem to be failing at this point. Same way with the cam seals if there's a big oil leak on the driver's side of the engine. I honestly wouldn't be afraid of the '99-'00 models as long as they're not AWD. Yes, they have the electronic throttle, and they're not as DIY-friendly if you're looking to extract more performance from them, but the engine has some considerable improvements over the earlier models (the oil cooler setup especially if you get a turbo) and most of the electrical weirdness that they exhibit sometimes can be rectified if you replace the positive battery cables. As long as you budget a little extra to take care of deferred maintenance, whatever you buy should be fine if it's not a heap to begin with.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 03:26
|
|
|
Right on, thanks for the input guys. I will be sure to check out those wear items you mentioned Oxphocker. It's not gonna be a real quick thing since I already have another car I'm basically just keeping an eye on craigslist for the right one. Chances are I will be buying it in the LA area.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 04:05
|
|
|
keep in mind timing belt/water pump is on a 70k replacement schedule..and if you're going to go the the trouble of tearing into the engine and taking the manifold off, the PCV system is under all that so might as well do it all in one shot. IPD sells phenolic spacers for the manifold and a lot of other 98' turbo upgrade parts if you're looking to squeeze more out of the engine. I have the V70 R and it's a lot of fun at times.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 04:48
|
|
|
2 questions: I've tracked my fuel leak down to the transfer pipe that siphons fuel from one side of the tank to the other (over the driveshaft hump) but it's got special Volvo £-tastic fittings. Would I be okay to replace this with hose clamps & fuel hose? Also I've realised that when my headlight switch is at off the headlights are on but the dash is dark, this can't be right can it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 12:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 18:07 |
|
|
Cakefool posted:2 questions: I've tracked my fuel leak down to the transfer pipe that siphons fuel from one side of the tank to the other (over the driveshaft hump) but it's got special Volvo £-tastic fittings. Would I be okay to replace this with hose clamps & fuel hose? yes daytime running lights. Use the screwset on the headlight panel to adjust.
|
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 14:54
|
|