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nm posted:Spark plugs on EJ257. Do they really last 60k mi? Mine did pretty well considering. I figure ill try and stick to 60k instead of 70 this next time around... 
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Mar 2, 2013 12:39
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I'm finally going to replace my up pipe with a GrimmSpeed piece. Should I get new OEM gaskets or aftermarket? E: The turbo->down pipe gasket and the exhaust manifold gaskets are what I need, according to the GS install video. The other gaskets come with the up pipe. Neptr fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Mar 4, 2013 |
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Mar 4, 2013 20:37
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Neptr posted:I'm finally going to replace my up pipe with a GrimmSpeed piece. Should I get new OEM gaskets or aftermarket? I'd get the grimmspeed gaskets...
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Mar 4, 2013 23:44
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My wagon has been throwing a fit of P1443 EVAP code. Where do I even begin with it? It seems to happen most below 32*F. After clearing the code, the car will be an absolute bitch to start up. (06 2.5i Impreza). It'll crank for a half dozen seconds, I'll re-try and it'll fire up.
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Mar 5, 2013 03:11
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Sockington posted:My wagon has been throwing a fit of P1443 EVAP code. Fun. Vent Control Solenoid . It controls whether the evap system is vented to atmosphere through the charcoal canister or sealed off. The system runs the diagnostic by closing the vent control solenoid and the ECU monitors how the tank pressure changes or something like that. Basically, you get to clean all that poo poo out. Have fun! On my 99, the who mess vents into the rear frame rail and that often gets clogged. Not sure how it works on a 2006. Also, check your gas cap.
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Mar 5, 2013 03:44
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When I bought the car, it immediately through a gas-cap code on the way home. I noticed the inside threads of the fuel filler were quite rusty for a 2006. I cleared the code,replaced the cap, and it never returned. When winter rolled around, this started happening a whole lot (couple times a week?). Wonder if I already need a new filler neck 
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Mar 5, 2013 12:14
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2006 and the filler already looks this rough.
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Mar 5, 2013 12:52
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Do the filler neck and the flappy valve on the back of it and it should solve all your issues.
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Mar 5, 2013 14:37
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Looks ok to me. I would be surprised if the problem was with filler neck, but what do I know?
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Mar 5, 2013 14:38
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Make sure to coat the new filler neck in tasty tasty POR15 and maybe rockguard before you put it in there. I doubt it's the filler neck, I'd guess something in the charcoal/evap system just because that's easier to fix. Torn/missing hose, you know the drill.
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Mar 5, 2013 15:19
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Make sure to coat the new filler neck in tasty tasty POR15 and maybe rockguard before you put it in there. I was thinking the canister at first since the hoses are right behind the rear wheel. Figured a chunk of ice or something pierced the rubber (doing donuts or driving like an rear end), but it looked good at the time. Until it warms up, I'll just drive with the code reader. I'll take a good look at the hoses and connections in a couple weeks. My major fear is that the P.O. actually hosed up something on the motor re-install, but it was 4+months later until the codes started appearing. As for my previous overheating issue, everything's been OK since I unplugged the compressor. I hope to pickup some gauges to check pressures with income tax. I just have to resist the urge to buy some used STi seats from Toronto to cushion my rear end better.
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Mar 5, 2013 16:14
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My '05 LGT limited has a horrible seating position, at least for my build. I'm 6' tall and mostly torso, so with the seat as low as possible and properly upright/forward, my head is wedged against the roof. Part of the problem is the sunroof eating up headroom, but it's the huge panoramic wagon one, which is awesome. I don't really want to shell out a ton of money for a new seat, so do you guys think an automotive upholstery place would be able to reshape it without making it (even more) uncomfortable, or am I just boned?
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Mar 6, 2013 02:20
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Who wants an OG Subaru incomplete project car for $15k? Anyone?    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums//showthread.php?t=2476032
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Mar 6, 2013 02:40
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McSpatula posted:Are tranny cocktails (uncle scotty's, etc) really worth the trouble over finding extra-s(and on that note, does anyone have an extra-s hookup in Los Angeles)? I'm about to hit 25k miles on the 08 WRX, and am planning on taking care of the 30k service ASAP. The subaru dealership in Glendale sells them by the quart for I think $12.50 each. I bought some a few months ago. VVVV--- Same here. I test drove an 02 with a sunroof and I'm 5' 11" and I felt uncomfortably close to the roof. Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 6, 2013 |
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Mar 6, 2013 03:30
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Scrambles posted:My '05 LGT limited has a horrible seating position, at least for my build. I'm 6' tall and mostly torso, so with the seat as low as possible and properly upright/forward, my head is wedged against the roof. Part of the problem is the sunroof eating up headroom, but it's the huge panoramic wagon one, which is awesome. This is why I got a non-limited. You lose like 2in with the sunroof in that car.
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Mar 6, 2013 03:41
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toplitzin posted:Who wants an OG Subaru incomplete project car for $15k? Oh my....... that's some good work on that car.
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Mar 6, 2013 04:09
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He has done an incredible job on that machine. I doubt I could live up to it.
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Mar 6, 2013 04:26
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Sockington posted:My wagon has been throwing a fit of P1443 EVAP code. That sounds a lot like what was happening with my Mazda with the evap system. It was really difficult to start after filling up, actually, but doesn't ever vent to atmosphere as it's a California model. I had it fixed under warranty so I don't remember exactly what was wrong.
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Mar 6, 2013 12:25
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My wife's '10 Outback just had the airbag system fault light come on last night. I noticed earlier this morning that the passenger side airbag won't arm when someone is sitting in it. I called the dealer from where we bought the car (used, 45k miles) and they told me that my wife and I probably aren't heavy enough to arm it. So I had my father in-law who is well over 300 pounds sit in it, bounce up and down etc. and it still didn't arm. Google leads me to believe that this is a fairly common problem but I don't see very many results in how to fix it. I'm hoping it's just the sensor under the seat that I can fix myself. It's worth noting that when we first bought the car it had a problem with the fuel gauge not moving above full, but has now started working again. With the airbag light on, does that render the whole airbag system useless, or is it limited to the passenger dash airbag? I really don't want my wife to roll the dice while driving around with our one year-old.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:15
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The airbag weight sensor on my WRX trips at about 30 lb so that dealership is smoking a lot of crack.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:17
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Mikemo Tyson posted:With the airbag light on, does that render the whole airbag system useless, or is it limited to the passenger dash airbag? I really don't want my wife to roll the dice while driving around with our one year-old. Trace your wires, and put the kid in the back seat.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:19
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I had an airbag light come and go on my 04 WRX years back. The dealer traced it to chewed insulation on a sensor wire somewhere, which made sense as my car had a bad infestation after my dad parked it in the bottom of his yard while I was at sea for 9 months. It seems the mice and rats have a fondness for Subaru wire insulation.
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Mar 6, 2013 19:38
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I remember reading something about crappy solder joints on the display up by the rear view mirror on the Outback, might be similar for others. My GIRLFRIEND's car has this problem with the airbag light coming and going on the dash and not picking up that there's a passenger in the passenger seat. I'm going to try and pull that thing and see if there's anything I can do for it. It's about two screws to check so why not.
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Mar 6, 2013 23:12
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Anyone want a pitch stop for cheap? Was made by AFI turbo, and is basically the same as an agency power stop. It generates a pretty good amount of noise so I went back to stock. Thinking like 40 shipped.
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Mar 7, 2013 04:07
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I'll throw it on the rally car for 20 bucks 
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Mar 7, 2013 15:08
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I'm getting down to the nitty gritty on my upcoming WRX purchase. Looking at a new 5 door, Base WRX package ( no premium/limited). They run MSRP around 25 and some change. The one in particular i'm after ( because it has been in their inventory since December ) has an extra 500 bucks or so in options. (Exhaust finish, Cargo Tray, Autodimming mirror). They're asking 27,300. Truecar, without options, puts a median price at 25,855 + the 500 in options so 26,355. Im trading in a paid off vehicle that will fetch a minimum of 4k in trade value, so no negative equity, and I will likely bring my own financing. I'm thinking of offering 26, trading mine in, and see if it sticks. There are two other subaru dealerships within 3 hours drive of here that are in larger markets. Assuming an invoice 25k ( they probably got it cheaper than that ), think 26 is a fair offer. Am I missing something here?
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Mar 7, 2013 20:46
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Consider waiting for the 2014, since you will be owning a 1 year old used car if you buy it now. The way to get the best price is to get an offer from one dealer and bring it to another dealer to see if they will beat it. Do this on the day before or the day of the last day of the month. (I can't stress how important that is)
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Mar 7, 2013 21:03
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Slow is Fast posted:I'll throw it on the rally car for 20 bucks Add $5 for the flat rate box and you have a deal. I feel like I'm driving a luxury car around without it. Well, minus the lovely ride and wind noise from the ski racks.
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Mar 7, 2013 21:35
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jamal posted:Add $5 for the flat rate box and you have a deal. miiiinnnneeeeee (paypal'd)
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Mar 7, 2013 22:08
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daslog posted:Consider waiting for the 2014, since you will be owning a 1 year old used car if you buy it now. That actually fits my timeframe. Am I right in thinking that invoice on these officially runs about 2 grand under MSRP minus destination charge?
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Mar 7, 2013 23:24
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If you do the pit-dealers-against-each other routine, you need to do a lot of footwork. But it's worth it. You might want to start out with 4 or 5 dealers, as many dealers will drop out way early in this 'bidding' process.
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Mar 7, 2013 23:35
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Farking Bastage posted:That actually fits my timeframe. Am I right in thinking that invoice on these officially runs about 2 grand under MSRP minus destination charge? Truecar shows the invoice vs. msrp information for every car on their site: http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/subaru/impreza-wagon-wrx-pricing/
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Mar 7, 2013 23:41
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Totally TWISTED posted:Truecar shows the invoice vs. msrp information for every car on their site: http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/subaru/impreza-wagon-wrx-pricing/ Ok. I did not know if their listed invoice prices were an estimate, or based in truth. Sorry for being so cynical, but I honestly thought that a REAL invoice price posted online would be a lot more than they really have in a car. Again being cynical, if/when a car salesman tells me the invoice price on a vehicle, I assume there's still 2 grand or so in rebates im not being informed about. Yes these guys need to make at least some profit on a sale( keep the lights on and all ), but I don't see it necessary for a dealership to make 25% off selling my trade(in my case they will), plus making another 20% off the retail sale. Again the reason I don't' trust invoice prices is because of the back end rebates I know happen. If you make a couple grand off me by selling me a car, that's fine. However, I have absolutely no intention of providing a 20% profit on the sale, and another 30% profit on selling my trade in PLUS whatever kickbacks the bank gives you on a dealer financed loan, which I know happens. In a great deal for the seller, that's an overall 45% profit in of itself when all is said and done. The dealer needs to make a profit, I fully understand that, but not on both ends of one deal in excess of 20%. Farking Bastage fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 01:08
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Farking Bastage posted:Ok. I did not know if their listed invoice prices were an estimate, or based in truth. Sorry for being so cynical, but I honestly thought that a REAL invoice price posted online would be a lot more than they really have in a car. Again being cynical, if/when a car salesman tells me the invoice price on a vehicle, I assume there's still 2 grand or so in rebates im not being informed about.
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Mar 8, 2013 01:22
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So the belts started squeeling today, stooped to see what was what and had a large steam coming from the hood. Coolant everywhere, squeezed the hose (circled in green) and had bubbles all the way across (circled in red) where the plastic piece meets the metal part of the radiator. Just to confirm, I need a new radiator, right?
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Mar 10, 2013 19:23
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I have recently started having a new frightening sound coming from my Saabaru. Perhaps someone can help me identify what the problem might be? It's winter and I have had to stop driving the car which sucks because this thing is so much drat fun in the snow. And we have plenty of snow here in Cleveland. The Car: 2005 Saab 9-2X Aero 100350 miles (timing belt due soon. I've been the owner since about 55000 miles) Has an old accessport but is otherwise completely stock. Used with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic, regular oil changes every 5000 miles approx. Symptoms: You might need to turn the volume up a little to hear the sound it makes well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN2-Ca8aW78 From inside the car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeLl7UzNca4 From outside the car The noise is a kind of intermittent hammering dependent on engine RPM. It sounds much more significant in person than it does on the video. If I touch something solid on the engine I can feel it happening as well as hear it. The noise seems to be coming from dead center on the engine. The noise worsened quickly over the course of a couple days a couple months ago and I have since stopped driving the car. When it happened I think that car was around a quart or so low on oil. This also happened at about 5000 miles since my last oil change. My phone app was reminding me that my next oil change was due when this occurred. I have not yet changed the oil. The car seems to be more difficult to start now and the engine seems to stop more quickly when I turn it off, as if there is slightly more drag in the engine. Could be my imagination/paranoia. Power when driving is not noticeably different. It seems to be worse when the car is fully warmed up. Other possibly related facts For the last several thousand miles the car had been making a light "tapping" noise that occurred at above 2500 RPM only under light throttle. At full throttle and under deceleration the noise goes away. I figured it was just a valve tapping or something. It is possible that this new noise is the same thing just much more severe. The period of this sound seems similar, however the light tapping noticeably came from the passenger side of the engine. I have an audio file of that noise somewhere that I can dig up. Also at the same time I noticed that intermittently the air coming in the vents will become cold when idling at a light, but hot air returns when I start driving again. The overflow coolant tank is a little low but not empty. I can see coolant in the radiator and in that reservoir above the turbo. I recently warmed the car up after it had been sitting for a while and moved it into the garage. I moved it out of the garage where it had been sitting for a few days and noticed a pretty decent sized spot of oil that appears to have leaked out of the passenger side of the engine. It never leaked oil prior to this. Based on this information, does anyone having any ideas what the problem might be or at some things I can do to help me troubleshoot this issue? I really miss being able to drive this car. 
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Mar 10, 2013 19:27
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piss boner posted:So the belts started squeeling today, stooped to see what was what and had a large steam coming from the hood. Coolant everywhere, squeezed the hose (circled in green) and had bubbles all the way across (circled in red) where the plastic piece meets the metal part of the radiator. Just to confirm, I need a new radiator, right? Oh boy do you.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:28
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BatDan posted:I have recently started having a new frightening sound coming from my Saabaru. Perhaps someone can help me identify what the problem might be? It's winter and I have had to stop driving the car which sucks because this thing is so much drat fun in the snow. And we have plenty of snow here in Cleveland. Sounds like you have the infamous Subaru Rod knock. Your engine is in the process of spinning a Rod bearing is what it sounds like to me.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:36
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Faerunner posted:Oh boy do you. Thanks. Anyone know where I can find an all-metal one? Or the part # for an all-metal one?
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Mar 10, 2013 20:10
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| # ? May 21, 2024 18:32 |
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For all metal ones, I've usually seen mitsumoto radiators being all metal, as well as koyo, I don't have experience with them so I can't really tell you much more about them.
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Mar 10, 2013 20:49
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