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meatpimp posted:And if he had the crank taken down .020", it would rev to 9000rpm... once. But aren't those numbers too tight for normal production manufacturing? Keeping a .020mm seems awfully tough, or maybe I am not up on current manufacturing tolerances. Lathes can be ridiculously accurate especially with something with the diameter of a crankshaft. We machine rings for thrust reversers for the G650 that have an ID of 51.2" nominal and we only get +/- .010".
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Jan 23, 2013 16:36
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10 thou? That's a football field! We sometimes have to hold .0002" I heard plastigage is no replacement for mics.
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Jan 23, 2013 23:02
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mafoose posted:10 thou?
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Jan 23, 2013 23:08
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Pretty sure King and ACL race both have +.50mm bearings. http://www.aclperformance.com.au/MazdaBEngineBearings.htm
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Jan 24, 2013 00:20
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Brigdh posted:You forgot the seat and seatbelt hardware Aka 17mm 
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Jan 24, 2013 02:08
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jamal posted:Pretty sure King and ACL race both have +.50mm bearings. Those are for a BP engine, not a F20/22 though. It looks like the F engines are only "STD, 025, .25" as far as sizing goes on that ACL site. Specifically, http://www.aclperformance.com.au/HondaF20-F22CBearings.htm that's what I was looking at. EDIT - And it looks like king only offers bearings for the F23 from the accords. On those however they offer a wide range. http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/PanelView.aspx?mfamily=609 (I'm not guaranteeing that's an exhaustive search as it looks like King doesn't have the best layout) Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Jan 24, 2013 |
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Jan 24, 2013 05:08
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Oh sorry, I should have probably read this a little more thoroughly. Are these right? http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/EnginesView.aspx?engine=F22 My King distributor lists them in sizes up to 1.5 over. I can't figure out if they have them in the HP and XP series in that size though. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jan 24, 2013 |
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Jan 24, 2013 05:47
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jamal posted:Oh sorry, I should have probably read this a little more thoroughly. OP needs to call and talk to a person, the web is great but no substitute.
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Jan 24, 2013 07:52
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I went with some King bearings I found on eBay. We'll see how they work. No updates because I went to Sno*Drift and re-evaluated my life.
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Jan 29, 2013 00:19
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Good luck with the rebuild dude, but I gotta say there's no way I'd buy an S2000 with a DIY rebuild. You should just keep it and drive the drat thing, all those old cars you're looking at are going to drive like utter poo poo in comparison.
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Jan 29, 2013 01:21
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revmoo posted:Aka 17mm 7/16" 20tpi is the thread size/pitch, it might have a 17mm head, but its entirely possible that 17mm is really a 11/16" head. My seatbelt hardware is ususally 14mm heads, but my Australian built Mercury Capri has 15mm heads on its 7/16-20 bolts, and I've had real 17.00mm heads on seatbelt hardware too. Airplanes had seatbelts far before cars, and that is where that standard came from!
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Jan 29, 2013 19:54
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leica posted:Good luck with the rebuild dude, but I gotta say there's no way I'd buy an S2000 with a DIY rebuild. You should just keep it and drive the drat thing, all those old cars you're looking at are going to drive like utter poo poo in comparison. I actually agree with this, even though you are doing a great job and with all this documentation i don't think you will have a problem selling it to someone who wants it, but you should keep it. Your putting a lot of work into this. AcidRonin fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 20:58
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All I want to do is work on this dumb car but life is decidedly throwing a wrench in that plan. EDIT: I should probably put something about cars in here. I threw the valves in about a week ago and they came out great. Waiting for one dumb little valve retainer half to come in to finish that up. The bearings should be at the house. This weekend I'll probably start drinking heavily and working on it. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Feb 2, 2013 |
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Jan 31, 2013 16:56
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Bearings arrived on 1/25 and I've been waiting for them at the wrong address. Picking them up today hopefully, though I'm working a lot of overtime so updates realistically won't be until Monday. It's these guys or a new crank. 
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Feb 6, 2013 14:51
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So what's the news on those bearings?
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Feb 15, 2013 19:59
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whiskas posted:So what's the news on those bearings? If it were good news I think he would have ran here to tell us all! Now I fear he's curled up in the fetal position crying
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Feb 16, 2013 09:35
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Or he's driven it off a cliff and is in jail for insurance fraud. Edit: WITH the bad bearings installed.
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Feb 16, 2013 20:29
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Feb 16, 2013 22:51
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^^^ That was where I was going to take it if the engine weren't salvageable. I feel that it would've been a much more interesting failure if we had gone that route. Bearings went on great. They were King bearings and the plastigauge came out uniform and on the tighter end of the specification. Finding a gap range between 0.0012 and 0.0021 inches in the factory service manual gave me some ease. I'll post the pictures once I wake up some.
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Feb 18, 2013 14:09
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New valve retainer cotter thing and knock sensor should be here today. Gonna put a solid afternoon's work on the engine then finally have a mega-update full of pretty pictures for everyone. Work's going well, mainly due to the fact that I'm either transferring to something more technical or leaving for a different job. Engineering majors: Don't go into Project Engineering. Do something technical.
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Feb 22, 2013 14:29
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Adiabatic posted:Finding a gap range between 0.0012 and 0.0021 inches in the factory service manual gave me some ease. Inches? Again?
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Feb 23, 2013 13:58
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meltie posted:Inches? Again?
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Feb 23, 2013 14:33
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Even F1 engines aren't machined down to less than a micron, if that's not inches or he's not misplaced a 0 I'd be amazed.
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Feb 23, 2013 15:58
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The clearance range in the service manual was in millimeters, with inches in parentheses. I'm not sure why I keep going back to inches. Possibly something to do with the plastigauge being set up for inches. The millimeters have some false precision and/or rounding error. Edit: Here's the page: 
Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 24, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2013 03:22
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Okay I've jerked y'all around enough without any steamy payoff. Time for pictures! I rebuilt the head, but the photos were lost when I switched phones. It was pretty uneventful. This is the culmination of that:  Here’s a shot of the state of the lower end, where I left off:  New bearing half still on the rod after plastigauging:  A shot of the rod, the bearing half, and the journal:  Rod cap with bearing half and assembly lube. It’s like oil but sticky, and will stay on the bearing through the oil priming process:  Second bearing going on:  Two rods connected:  All four connected and crank spun 90°:  Spun it again to make sure everything’s free and loose:  Engine turned right-side up, checking the piston movement:  Back upside down, bolted the baffle back on:  Chaining the oil pump back onto the nose of the crank:  Tensioner and guide back on the oil pump chain:  Cam chain and cam guide/tensioner back on:  Timing cover back on overtop the cam chain:  Shiny clean oil pan:  Oil pan on:  Another view, with the timing cover and the oil pan:  Engine turned right-side up again:  $130 in parts: (the missing valve cotter and a new knock sensor)  Head gasket:  Head on the block:  Another view:  All 10 head bolts in. They required 22 ft-lbs torque then 3 (THREE!) 90° turns:  Cam chain idler gear on. Timing is a breeze on this engine:  Working on it some more this afternoon.
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Feb 25, 2013 16:23
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Or not. Moved a bed and drove a Rav4. Wednesday maybe?
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Feb 26, 2013 13:53
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Holy hell it looks like an engine again. Rocker arm VTEC assembly thing back on. This was a pain to put down all at once, and required lots of small victories and cussing. Shout-out to the cams and the bad rod in the background:  After slathering the entire thing with assembly lube, I bolted the cams back on and satiated its oil-lust with 10W-30:  After some valve adjustment, I finally got to put the pretty red valve cover back on after a couple months of it looking sad on the cardboard “workstation”:  Another view. Well looky here, no more touching engine internals!  Oh wait, I forgot the tensioner. What a pain that was. It required a set screw and the threaded hole to the right of this picture was its mode of egress:  Worth noting that I didn’t put those two bolts on the tensioner the first time around, and when I pulled the set screw it ejected the assembly stage left at an alarming speed. Here’s a close-up of the inside of that hole, as well as my “set screw”:  Bonus picture: my crank handle used to turn the engine on the civic. I was doing a valve adjustment on it: 
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Mar 4, 2013 15:47
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So I was looking through craigslist for an E30 to replace this ridiculously boring Civic and.... http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/3621767213.html I had a 90% swapped M30 E30 before and this sounds like the same amount of basket-case, but I think I need it.
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Mar 4, 2013 19:11
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Adiabatic posted:So I was looking through craigslist for an E30 to replace this ridiculously boring Civic and.... One of us! One of us!
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Mar 4, 2013 20:07
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Cool swap, but christ what awful everything else. That's a 75% done swap at best, its not street legal since important things like headlights don't work, and it can't be driven since it doesn't even have a fan?
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Mar 4, 2013 21:54
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DJ Commie posted:Cool swap, but christ what awful everything else. That's a 75% done swap at best, its not street legal since important things like headlights don't work, and it can't be driven since it doesn't even have a fan? My old E30 had an M30 from a 5-series "swapped" into it when I bought it. Major things of note when I got it: It should have overheated because the coolant was never bled of air. It should have overheated because the thermostat was in backwards. It should have overheated because the head bolts were finger-tight. It didn't overheat because it was running pig rich, despite having no less than 4 post-TB vacuum line bungs open on the intake manifold. Also the heater core lines were backwards, somehow denying the cabin of any heat. The radio, rear door locks, odometer, speedometer, tachometer, horn, rear left window, and parking/brake lights were inoperable. I don't know how but it had working power mirrors... There were no seat belts up front and the guy sold it to me with a steering wheel you could wobble against the column about 4 inches in either direction and a bungie cord attached to the passenger handle held the shifter from falling onto the driveshaft because the dude couldn't figure out how to attach the plate to the chassis. Best car I've ever had. I need that more in my life. Screw pretty little roadsters.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:49
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Moxie Omen posted:One of us! One of us! My favorite bit is the Toyota branded steering wheel. 
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Mar 5, 2013 14:51
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Great now I want to buy an E30 and swap things into it. Automotive ADHD.
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Mar 5, 2013 16:51
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This is an excellent rebuild thread, nice job Adiabatic. I've always wanted to see a detailed rebuild of an F20C. I have a question though. Why would you go from an s2000 to an E30? Is it just something you want to do or do you have a specific plan in mind for an E30 BMW that you can't accomplish with an s2000?
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Mar 7, 2013 16:21
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Thanks skyline! It's a bunch of things... I bought the S2000 with autocross and track days and all that in mind. I found out I don't like racing cars nearly as much as I like building and repairing them. The S2000 never breaks down (unless you don't check the oil, obviously). Beater cars and non-pristine cars are a lot less stress than something you have to constantly check for dings and park way out in the middle of nowhere. The monetary value and the value I put on a car are way different. I like AI because they seem to have this same mentality. I also can never decide what I want, and so I'm going to rent a garage/lot and buy some cheap stuff, see what I like, sell the rest off. Maybe make some extra cash if I get lucky. Thoughts currently keep cycling through a swapped E30, a Triumph GT6/Spitfire or something small and horribly british, a motorcycle I can learn on like a Honda Nighthwk, and a deuce-and-a-half. It's more the journey than the result, currently.
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Mar 7, 2013 20:42
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Deuce and a half clearly.
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Mar 7, 2013 21:24
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Deuce and a half to recover the gt6, a match made of necessity.
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Mar 7, 2013 21:37
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If you do that, you're going to need a 5 ton, say an M816 wrecker, to recover the deuce and a half. I'm not sure what you'll need to recover the wrecker, but it might involve a sizable wallet.
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Mar 7, 2013 21:39
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Luckily, all four are cheap enough that I don't have to whittle the list down much. Something about obnoxious parallel parking and whistler turbos makes me think the deuce will become a reality.
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Mar 7, 2013 21:52
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Make the 5-tonner a mobile workshop, repair rather than recover.
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Mar 7, 2013 23:43
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