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Pierzak posted:No, but I guess I wasn't clear enough. I meant glue the cockpit parts etc., paint everything, glue it into place so you don't have to reach into inconvenient places with a brush (wait that came out wrong). Ah I see, my bad. I thought you meant gluing up the whole fuselage before painting the cockpit.
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Mar 2, 2013 16:46
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My husband just started building his first model, and I kind of want to make one too. Problem is, I have a very specific model I'd want to make: 1964-1966 Dodge Dart or Plymouth Valiant. Does anyone know if something like that exists?
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Mar 2, 2013 19:12
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dopaMEAN posted:My husband just started building his first model, and I kind of want to make one too. Revell/Monogram more or less holds a monopoly on scale muscle cars, so I'd check their selection. Virtually all hobby shops/stores stock them.
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Mar 2, 2013 21:23
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George Zimmer posted:Revell/Monogram more or less holds a monopoly on scale muscle cars, so I'd check their selection. Virtually all hobby shops/stores stock them. Also, completely baffling and surprisingly, Michaels Craft stores always have a fairly large selection of model cars in their stores. Right next to the artisan fairy craft glitter and Bored Housewives Incorporated Scrapbooking Kits.
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Mar 2, 2013 21:46
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Reading this thread bring back many fond memories of being a boy and spending Christmas days surrounded by the sweet, welcoming scent of paint thinner and plastic adhesive. Now I kind-of want to build a kit again, for nostalgia's sake and maybe to see if I can do better than slapping it together with gluey fingerprints. How would you all rate the market in comparison to 1999; and are there any newcomer companies that I ought to be on the lookout for? Preferably I'd probably prefer to start on something smaller, possibly within the 1:72 or 1:48 scale. The Tamiya t-55 looks like an awesome beast, but a bit too expensive for something that currenty feels like a whimsy. Any goon opinions on kits that would be fun and friendly to returning hobbyists or newcomers?
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Mar 2, 2013 21:47
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The market in plastic model kits is stronger than ever. Quality is much better overall, and there are an endless supply of kits to choose from. If you're looking at armor modeling, you can't go wrong with Dragons main line of kits. They have some of the best engineered kits out there, and they often include many aftermarket accessories and photoetch right in the kit. And if you want inspiration, see if you can get your hand on an issue or two of AFV Modeller magazine. It's basically an armor model porn mag, with amazing pictures of the highest quality armor models out there, completed by masters in the hobby. You'll probably only find it at really dedicated, awesome hobby shops, so you may have to order them online. I say a little prayer every day to Plastic Model Jebus that we've got more than a few really decent hobby shops here in Vancouver. Having quality kits and materials on hand is so great when the alternative is lengthy waits for internet ordered items. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Mar 2, 2013 |
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Mar 2, 2013 21:56
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Oh, hey! You're from Vancouver? I'm in... Surrey.  Moving to the Lower Mainland since I 'outgrew' the hobby certainly hasn't helped. I miss being able to run around the corner with my pocket money in my bright neon 90's adidas wallet.
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Mar 2, 2013 22:10
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Also, completely baffling and surprisingly, Michaels Craft stores always have a fairly large selection of model cars in their stores. Right next to the artisan fairy craft glitter and Bored Housewives Incorporated Scrapbooking Kits. I don't know if they still do, but even Walmarts in my area used to stock them. It's a shame if they don't, it could bring the hobby to alot of people that don't have a local hobby shop.
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Mar 2, 2013 23:09
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Space Wizard posted:Oh, hey! You're from Vancouver? I'm in... Surrey. If you want to go for a bit of a drive, Burnaby Hobbies has an amazing selection of model kits, tools, reference materials, paints, etc etc. It's probably the best hobby store I've been to in the Lower Mainland, and they'll have absolutely everything you'd need to get you back into the hobby. They also carry those hard to find issues of AFV Modeler too. I usually go to On-Track Hobbies in Port Moody, because of proximity. They're mainly focused on trains, but they still have a fairly large selection of armor and air, and they have a fairly decent selection of paints and tools. They also have quite large selection of Woodland Scenics products as well, so they're useful for basing supplies too.
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Mar 3, 2013 03:02
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Space Wizard posted:Any goon opinions on kits that would be fun and friendly to returning hobbyists or newcomers? The first kit I built when I came back to the hobby was a Tamiya car; and its quality and engineering were outstanding. Aside from that, I'd look for something that you a) would really like to do, and 2) has a paint job you can do with what you have.
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Mar 3, 2013 04:05
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Anyone know of anyone who does kits of some of the more interesting tanks out there? I am thinking Tanks of the interbellum / early WWII. For example : T-35 or any of the Vickers tanks (Mediums Mk. I - III, Independent).
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Mar 3, 2013 10:25
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Dragon make an interesting one of these in 1:72 that I've been looking at and wondering if the pricetag is worth it. If you go tiny you can find a huge pile of random stuff, but otherwise off the top of my head Airfix still do JB Model's Vickers Light Mk VI which is a fun kit, and Italieri do a Pz I.
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Mar 4, 2013 01:36
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Unkempt posted:AIrfix Seafire FR47, 1/48th. I started this about a year ago meanining to finish it in a weekend, but then, you know, life. Anyway, done now. Nice build man. Correction you may want to make: you've got the landing gear (undercarriage) swapped left to right. It should have a forward rake. The long lobe of the gear door faces forward on a Spitfire, and the oleo scissors point aft. Those are supposed to be real nice kits, I've always meant to build one. Jonny Nox posted:Does anyone know where I can get better decals for the Revell F/A-18c? The modernized A-models currently flying should be pretty much indistinguishable from -Cs. Before the modernization, the big external difference was a couple of antennas on the vertical tails, which are probably unnoticeable in 1:144 scale. You can tell if the reference photo you are looking at shows a modernized bird if it has the birdslicer antenna array in front of the windscreen. Comprehensive nerd list, no pics http://www.ipmscanada.com/ipms/Reference_%20Article/Aircraft/Aircraft_Page/CF18Hornet.html
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Mar 4, 2013 03:00
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compressioncut posted:The modernized A-models currently flying should be pretty much indistinguishable from -Cs. Before the modernization, the big external difference was a couple of antennas on the vertical tails, which are probably unnoticeable in 1:144 scale. I still want to build a Lo-vis USN F/A-18C in 1/144.
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Mar 4, 2013 04:12
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Do you have the kit in hand? A description I found says it comes with USN markings http://www.hlj.com/product/rev64001 (same kit in a bubble pack with paint). Might be SOL for aftermarket.
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Mar 4, 2013 06:20
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Yep, it does too. I even know where they write it on the box, so I don't know how I missed that. Would have bought the kit a long time ago, had I noticed that. Oh and the store across the street from work doesn't have one right now, of course.
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Mar 4, 2013 19:53
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No Pun Intended posted:Anyone know of anyone who does kits of some of the more interesting tanks out there? I am thinking Tanks of the interbellum / early WWII. British : -Very early interbellum: I've heard Emhar's Whippet/MK.IV were mediocre. -Early WWII: I've seen various medium/light tanks on display at shows, never a heavy like the T-35 though. Maybe there's a 1/72? French: -Tamiya's Char B1 is excellent as are most aftermarket kits for it. -Bronco Models Hotchkiss h38/39 is a superb kit as well. -One of my friends has an super detailed Renault FT-17 tankette and a neat little S-35. Can't recall the makers, I'll ask if you're interested. Soviet: -Lots of light tanks like the BT-7 from Russian companies, most have poor tooling and are flawed, but I've seen some gorgeous conversion work. Avoid unless you're in for a big project/challenge. German: -Tristar makes the best Pz.I by far imo. Included are some neat Spanish and Chinese decal markings iirc. Chech/German. -Tristar's LT vz.38 is awesome. -e: wrong kit Unrelated: Do any of you have experience with modelshipways/modelairways 1/16 (WWI) airplane kits? They look gorgeous, but I've read very mixed reviews. I'd love to build a full skeleton wooden Wright Flyer. e:thanks \/\/ alcyon fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 4, 2013 21:55
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I can't speak to their airplane kits, but Model Shipways boat kits are considered some of the best in the industry. I would think their quality there would also extend to the airplane kits.
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Mar 4, 2013 22:48
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I heard Zvezda's limited edition T-26 was good, but good luck finding one.
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Mar 4, 2013 23:18
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If you're using the touch-n-flow system, always remember to hold it at the base when attaching the filler bottle. Otherwise it *will* snap into pieces. Just a friendly reminder. 
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Mar 7, 2013 02:44
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Speaking of touch-n-flow, I actually managed to buy one from a local store but it's only the tube, no filler bottle. Is there a way to fill it without one or should I start looking for another kit?
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Mar 7, 2013 13:04
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I kept pics of a lot of the models I built when I got back into building in the late 90's-early 2000's so I'll start posting a few. This A7 Corsair II is one I actually kept (sold the rest on Ebay) and it still sits in my office on a shelf to this day.  UH-34  F4U-1D Corsair 
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Mar 7, 2013 19:46
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Does anyone have experience with printing their own water slide decals? I want to do an Itasha style car, and that's the only way I can think to get all the dumb animes on it. The only examples I could find were either one color, or plain logos.
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Mar 8, 2013 05:47
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My university got a 3D printer I can use. Is there some website that has models I can print out (in .stl format), or do I have to model it myself?
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Mar 8, 2013 21:59
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I'm happy to see all the planes being posted over the last few pages. I would like to contribute, but I made a couple of very critical errors on a 1:48 Hasegawa P-51 after getting back into modeling after 25 years and am not at all proud of the results. Either I am retarded, or getting a realistic metallic finish with Alclad II aluminum is a hell of a lot harder than it looks. I hosed it up pretty good and that killed all my motivation. That model sat on my bench untouched for 6-7 months before I admitted to myself that I was never going to finish it and dropped it in the trash. My next model on deck is a fairly simple 1:48 Hasegawa F6F Hellcat with a standard blue/light blue flat color scheme. I have an F-104 Starfighter (Man on a missle) in the box as well, but I think I am going to go with a camo color scheme instead of bare metal until I figure out how to get a good metallic finish with Alclad. I wasn't a great modeler in the first place and getting back into this is harder than I thought it would be. I hope to put together a few more simpler WWII planes (F6F Hellcat, F4U Corsair, B-24 Liberator, B-25 Mitchell) and then move on to two of my favorites - F-15 Eagle and an AH-64 Apache when I have more confidence. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Mar 8, 2013 |
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Mar 8, 2013 22:28
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What exactly were the problems with the Alclad? You really need to airbrush on Alclad (if you weren't already) to get a good metallic finish, and Alclad really benefits from a glossy base to go over.
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Mar 8, 2013 23:09
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It turned out looking almost exactly the same as silver paint out of a rattlecan. I'm guessing the problem is that they recommend using a gloss black enamel basecoat for polished aluminum and I used gloss black lacquer. I polished the hell out of the basecoat using automotive polishes and cleaned it very well before applying the Alclad, so it wasn't a result of the basecoat being dirty or not glossy enough. It could also be a result of using a siphon fed brush which requires higher PSI than what they recommend. I'm going to wait until I get a gravity fed brush, then buy the recommended enamel basecoat before I try again. There was also a problem of this strange blemish on the side of the fuselage below the canopy that bore a striking resemblance to the thumbprint of my left hand. edit: I was just looking on the web and found a post by a guy that says he uses a lacquer base coat with great results, so maybe it has more to do with the air pressure being too high. I'll just have to experiment on some plastic spoons until I get it right. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Mar 9, 2013 |
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Mar 9, 2013 08:32
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Ensign Expendable posted:My university got a 3D printer I can use. Is there some website that has models I can print out (in .stl format), or do I have to model it myself? Try the 3D printing thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193 Any watertight 3D model, polygonal or surfaces, can be printed on a 3D printer. STL is an open interchange format, and it's trivial to create an STL from basically any other CAD model. Programs like Rhino, Maya or 3DS Max will do the conversion for you.
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Mar 9, 2013 09:21
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Sagebrush posted:Try the 3D printing thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193 The only one I know how to use is Google SketchUp, and it can't save in STL. I tried Blender, but the learning curve seems pretty steep.
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Mar 9, 2013 18:07
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Finished up the '64 GTO that I posted some progress of earlier in the thread. Here's an album: http://imgur.com/a/IW4mP
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Mar 10, 2013 15:29
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That looks awesome! Can you get any more pictures of the interior? Does the license plate have any significance or did you just use the default decals? It is cool to see more planes, trains, and automobiles in the thread.
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Mar 10, 2013 16:07
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Now that I've got an airbrush, I want to build up car and plane models again - all I have are acrylics for wargaming models, are these good to get a nice gloss on cars? Are there any issues about the hardness of acrylic vs enamels? I have gloss, matte and satin varnishes so I'm hoping I can use acrylics just fine.
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Mar 10, 2013 18:36
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Not anywhere as pretty as your models, but here's a WIP Airfix Diorama I'm working on. Clicky: 1 2 3
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Mar 10, 2013 18:38
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That's a pretty nasty looking Jeep, well done. It would probably look better if the seats weren't the same colour as the mud though.
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Mar 10, 2013 18:44
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Ensign Expendable posted:That's a pretty nasty looking Jeep, well done. It would probably look better if the seats weren't the same colour as the mud though. I had no khaki paint  I'll fix that after the next trip to the model shop. 1:72 scale by the way.
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Mar 10, 2013 18:52
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krushgroove posted:Now that I've got an airbrush, I want to build up car and plane models again - all I have are acrylics for wargaming models, are these good to get a nice gloss on cars? Are there any issues about the hardness of acrylic vs enamels? I have gloss, matte and satin varnishes so I'm hoping I can use acrylics just fine. Acrylics pretty much always have a matte/flat finish when airbrushed. You could always use a clearcoat though. Future is an especially popular acrylic clear and goes well over decals. Do you plan on polishing? If you do, you'll want to use something harder than standard acrylics. Acrylics are fantastic, however, for virtually every other part of the car besides the body though. It's all I use for interiors, engines, chassis, etc. The smooth finish achieved with an airbrush works especially well for interior detail. Enamels have a very long curing time which makes polishing them a headache, so I never use them personally.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:09
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George Zimmer posted:Acrylics pretty much always have a matte/flat finish when airbrushed. You could always use a clearcoat though. Future is an especially popular acrylic clear and goes well over decals. Do you plan on polishing? If you do, you'll want to use something harder than standard acrylics. Acrylics are fantastic, however, for virtually every other part of the car besides the body though. It's all I use for interiors, engines, chassis, etc. The smooth finish achieved with an airbrush works especially well for interior detail. Enamels have a very long curing time which makes polishing them a headache, so I never use them personally. Thanks for that - I think polishing will be a bit too much for me to bother with, I mainly want models of my favorite cars to display, that's all. So it sounds like I'll just want to get the right paint match and varnish as needed then? I'm in the UK and have started using Pledge/Kleer floor wax to varnish my wargaming models, so if that can take the constant handling it'll be plenty durable for a display-only model I'm sure.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:20
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George Zimmer posted:Acrylics pretty much always have a matte/flat finish when airbrushed. That's not really true though. Acrylics will only have a matte finish if the paint manufacturer has specifically added a matte medium to their paint formulation. Many, if not most artists acrylic manufacturers will use a neutral medium somewhere between matte and satin, and the glossiness of the paint is largely dictated by the pigments used in each individual color. So you'd find that even among the range of a single manufacturers paints, different colors having varying levels of glossiness. A Liquitex Blue might be far glossier than the Liquitex Orange, depending on the specific pigments in use. Add on top of that many manufacturers may make very glossy or very matte paints in general, but not even mention this on the labels. Liquitex tends to me more matte, Golden is usually satin, and then you have companies like Createx that have different paint lines and don't list which are glossy or matte, even though Createx different lines vary quite a bit. Their standard paints are matte/satin, but the Wicked Colors are extremely glossy, and many people would never know that until the bought it and tried it out.
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Mar 10, 2013 19:27
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:That's not really true though. Acrylics will only have a matte finish if the paint manufacturer has specifically added a matte medium to their paint formulation. Many, if not most artists acrylic manufacturers will use a neutral medium somewhere between matte and satin, and the glossiness of the paint is largely dictated by the pigments used in each individual color. So you'd find that even among the range of a single manufacturers paints, different colors having varying levels of glossiness. A Liquitex Blue might be far glossier than the Liquitex Orange, depending on the specific pigments in use. Interesting. Pretty much every Tamiya paint I've sprayed has had a flat-ish finish. Maybe it's something in my thinner, I just use water from the tap. krushgroove posted:Thanks for that - I think polishing will be a bit too much for me to bother with, I mainly want models of my favorite cars to display, that's all. So it sounds like I'll just want to get the right paint match and varnish as needed then? Sounds about right! And yeah, Pledge/Kleer dries plenty hard. Seeing as how you're a wargamer, Citadel paints spray very well if you haven't tried it before.
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Mar 10, 2013 22:47
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Posting more Jeeps, you can never have enough Jeeps.  The missing headlight is, uh, battle damage.
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Mar 10, 2013 23:04
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