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SkunkDuster posted:That looks awesome! Can you get any more pictures of the interior? Does the license plate have any significance or did you just use the default decals? It is cool to see more planes, trains, and automobiles in the thread. It would appear that I am a huge retard and didn't take any pictures at all of the finished interior as it was waiting for the body to be done. Unfortunately, there's no real good way to get any other shots of it. Just know that it's flocked and uses all the kit parts. Well, except for the rear side windows. I managed to knock them both out while gluing the interior to the body. I panicked at first, but then just thought "gently caress it. They're rolled down." The license plate is just one of the kit plates. The other was something along the lines of "64 GTO" which I find stupid.
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Mar 10, 2013 23:40
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George Zimmer posted:Sounds about right! And yeah, Pledge/Kleer dries plenty hard. Seeing as how you're a wargamer, Citadel paints spray very well if you haven't tried it before. I'm a Vallejo man but that sounds great anyway, glad I can just varnish and enjoy :-)
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Mar 10, 2013 23:47
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N17R4M posted:I had no khaki paint
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Mar 11, 2013 02:24
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I'll fix that after the next trip to the model shop. 1:72 scale by the way.
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George Zimmer posted:Interesting. Pretty much every Tamiya paint I've sprayed has had a flat-ish finish. Maybe it's something in my thinner, I just use water from the tap. Tamiya XF-series are flat. X-series are gloss. Both have come out that way consistently for me. Try using the Tamiya thinner, or isopropyl alcohol, and see if either of those improve the results.
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Mar 11, 2013 03:09
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SkunkDuster posted:It turned out looking almost exactly the same as silver paint out of a rattlecan. I'm guessing the problem is that they recommend using a gloss black enamel basecoat for polished aluminum and I used gloss black lacquer. I polished the hell out of the basecoat using automotive polishes and cleaned it very well before applying the Alclad, so it wasn't a result of the basecoat being dirty or not glossy enough. It could also be a result of using a siphon fed brush which requires higher PSI than what they recommend. I'm going to wait until I get a gravity fed brush, then buy the recommended enamel basecoat before I try again. There was also a problem of this strange blemish on the side of the fuselage below the canopy that bore a striking resemblance to the thumbprint of my left hand. I use Alclad gloss black base and about 14 PSI and it looks great for Alclad Chrome.
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Mar 11, 2013 13:24
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Arquinsiel posted:Protip: Airfix "1:72" is actually HO/OO scale, which is more 1:76.2. Even then, their stuff varies wildly in that range, and a lot of it is from the 50's. The Jeep is a particularly tiny kit IIRC. That would explain why this looks to be to scale:  The kit is relatively new, it was a set containing a base (Nissanhut, sandbags etc), a buttload of soldiers, a P51 and the jeep + trailer. Slowly working on the base, going to pick up a tiny tank to add to the diorama tomorrow, as well as all the paints I'm missing.
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Mar 11, 2013 16:17
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Nah, the BOX is new. If you look at the copyright stamp on the various bits you'll see the date it was made first.
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Mar 11, 2013 16:26
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I'm painting a tank for the first time in about 16 years (or any military model for that matter) and I'm finding I'm being overwhelmed by all the different information I'm finding on the web. I ran across a technique called color modulation I am considering trying, but I'm not sure if it is anything more than very selective shading. Also I'm not really sure how to approach filters and washes (which to do first) or really what the differences are. I'm going to continue doing research, but wanted to hear any tips you guys have on how you approach painting and especially weathering armor. I am doing a modern-style tank visibly similar to an abrams and am going to avoid doing any rust effects because I think it is overdone (that and I don't recall any of the abrams and bradleys I worked around while being in a cav unit, being very rusty at all), but I do want it to look like the unit has been in heavy use in a fairly dusty environment. Also in terms of things like pigments, are MIG the end all, or are there other brands I should look out for?
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Mar 14, 2013 20:39
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I'm starting modelling since I've worked in the LMS for 2 years now and never done it. I have some Zvezda stuff for their wargame thing that I'm painting tomorrow but thought I'd pick up some cheap sale kits to practice on as well. Why didn't I believe the guys in work about how terrible anything but the newest Airfix kits are? Terrible plastic, terrible fit, terrible mold points, terrible sprues. The only thing they haven't cocked up is the instructions. (And possibly the decals, but I'm gonna try painting this Grumman Widgeon/Gosling a non standard livery just to practice some form of camo and weathering because why not it was £1.50, so I'll never use the decals.) Jesus. Not buying anything from them again unless it's one of their fresh molds from last year onwards. (Or unless it's something weird/unusual and stupidly cheap.) Also, seconding that most of Airfix's 1/72 is to OO gauge. A lot of the time it's okay, and you can get away with it randomly, but if everything else you have is 72nd then a couple 76th things may look out of place, kit dependent
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Mar 14, 2013 22:33
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Nonsense, Aifix kits are wonderful! The older the better! They're poo poo, I just like them.
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Mar 14, 2013 22:50
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They have some nice kits, including some nice stuff coming out this year (and their new molds are pretty great, the panel detailing on the Vampire looks amazing and I think it has better plastic but I could be wrong) We have quite a few customers waiting on the new 1/72 bomber resupply set. It's only gonna be £17 odd, and if the molds are decent it could be really popular.
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Mar 14, 2013 23:02
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Airfix is one of my favorite model companies right now. Their new mold 1/72 models are generally well engineered and build into really good looking models out of the box. You just need to be aware that you are buying a sub $10 model kit most times. Plus it's more aesthetic apeal than accuracy, I think. Hence super deep panel lines that aren't even close to scale, but paint up really good. They aren't Hassegawa or Tamiya, but they purty up real good. Also their old stuff is very "airfix", so try to stick to the newer stuff: http://www.airfix.com/airfix-products/new-models-for-2011/aircraft/ http://www.airfix.com/airfix-products/new-models-for-2012/aircraft-172-scale/ http://www.airfix.com/airfix-products/new-for-2013/aircraft-172-scale/ I have built a number of the models in these lists, and they really are nice, for a quick fun build. If I were to have a friend looking to get into the hobby, I would recomend one of these in a heartbeat.
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Mar 15, 2013 06:38
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I agree, I've got their new Harrier GR 9 and Folland Gnat kits and the detail there is awesome. I like their deep panel lines though. Fine ones can disappear after a coat of paint or two, and they save me the time of having to rescribe them myself. One kit I would recommend as well is their TSR.2 kit, which any aircraft lover should build if not for the beauty, the sheer  of it.http://www.airfix.com/airfix-produc...age=&sortorder= Oh and don't let that Anime stuff on the box put you off, there are provisions and decals in the kit to let you build a normal TSR. Of course you're welcome to build the Anime version with rear end-in-the-air pilot figures too if you like. I'm just saying!
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Mar 15, 2013 10:59
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Does anyone still make Robotech models? I've been looking on Amazon and eBay and basically don't know what I'm looking at. I was hoping to stay under $30 and buy it from someone in the US.
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Mar 16, 2013 00:32
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Deeters posted:Does anyone still make Robotech models? I've been looking on Amazon and eBay and basically don't know what I'm looking at. I was hoping to stay under $30 and buy it from someone in the US. Not to my knowledge. Bandai still pump out a gazillion gundams in each different variety, but I haven't seen any Robotech that isn't just a toy in years. I hope to be proved wrong though. Also, so I can claim to have contributed something, I started painting a thing! (no small detail, like the shovel, and the tracks still need done.) I fully regard this, however, as a pretty good start for someone who has never done it before  http://i.imgur.com/dYGa5Q3.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FyrOtuX.jpg (linked instead of embedded because I'm not sure if it'd stretch the tables.) e; and in one of those "you can't see it for looking too close at it" moments, the panzer 2 track mechanism probably shoulda been done ni the armour colour like I did with the panzer 3.
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Mar 16, 2013 01:15
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Deeters posted:Does anyone still make Robotech models? I've been looking on Amazon and eBay and basically don't know what I'm looking at. I was hoping to stay under $30 and buy it from someone in the US. I would get you a link but I am running out the door. Search for Macross instead of Robotech.
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Mar 16, 2013 01:44
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Deeters posted:Does anyone still make Robotech models? I've been looking on Amazon and eBay and basically don't know what I'm looking at. I was hoping to stay under $30 and buy it from someone in the US. Come join us in the Gunpla thread, we love Macross too: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3472857 Hasegawa and Bandai are the two biggest manufacturers I believe.
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Mar 16, 2013 02:04
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Deeters posted:Does anyone still make Robotech models? I've been looking on Amazon and eBay and basically don't know what I'm looking at. I was hoping to stay under $30 and buy it from someone in the US. Depends on what you mean by Robotech. The TV show was based off of 3 different series. The most popular was Macross and those kits usually go into and out of production and can probably be found in the US see this for kits in Japan- http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/list/693/0/1 . The second series was Southern Cross and kits were available of the armor but not right now. Third TV series was Mospeada and there are some things available - http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/list/693/0/1 (These were also the Monogram Go-Bot kits from the 80's) The Revell models were from Macross - see above, Orguss - http://www.1999.co.jp/search_e.asp?Typ1_c=109&scope=0&scope2=0&itkey=orguss and Dougram - http://www.1999.co.jp/search_e.asp?Typ1_c=109&scope=0&scope2=0&itkey=dougram. Good luck on the Orguss and Dougram stuff that's been out of production for years Have you tried the Gunpla thread, they may know some good sources - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3472857&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 On another topic, if you have a Target near by, they have a gift card with a snap together bi plane - http://www.target.com/p/snap-apart-plane-gift-card/-/A-14321643#prodSlot=medium_1_5 It builds up pretty nice.  
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Mar 16, 2013 02:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnWOqp_hyiY Large scale japanese madness
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Mar 16, 2013 10:44
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MarxCarl posted:Robotech Stuff I was mainly looking for the Macross ones. I kind of want to do a Skull Leader veritech and a Jolly Rogers F-14 together. Thanks for the info. In the mean time, I've been working on a Saturn V, which is the first model I've done in a few years and the first one I've really tried on. I've learned that masking straight lines was harder than I thought. 
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Mar 16, 2013 22:45
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God drat it, foiled by primer, again! I finally ran dry on my favourite Dupli-Color primer. They seem to have done away with their light-grey primer now and only have dark grey, which doesn't work in many cases. I just tried the latest from Krylon, and their grey is too dark as well, and the coverage wasn't great either. Am I seriously going to have to go back to using Tamiyas extremely pricey Fine Surface Primer?! FUUUUUUUUUHHHHHH.....
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Mar 16, 2013 23:02
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Do you have an airbrush? Vallejo grey primer is a nice light grey.
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Mar 17, 2013 08:51
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I do, and I'm toying with the idea of going with an airbrush primer, but those things are usually even less of a value than a Tamiya rattle-can. I might try the Vallejo and GarageKit Colors primers though just to see how they fare.
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Mar 17, 2013 14:59
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we literally can't keep the black or grey vallejo primer in stock in work. The white sticks around a little bit but we sell the other 2 inside of a fortnight of getting it in. Unfortunately, head office is saying we need to wait for our next main vallejo order to get more :/
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Mar 17, 2013 15:38
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Deeters posted:I was mainly looking for the Macross ones. I kind of want to do a Skull Leader veritech and a Jolly Rogers F-14 together. Thanks for the info.
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Mar 19, 2013 19:20
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Does anyone have any experience here with Anigrand? They have a few really nice kits that me and the guys in work are eyeing up (I'd especially like to build the Lun, though given I'm so new to the painting, not sure I could do it justice) because they have such unusual stuff.
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Mar 19, 2013 20:07
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So why the stupid thread titled? Nobody is such an idiot tha...quote:I also highly recommend this (though not on your holos!) Oh. Never mind. 
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Mar 19, 2013 22:48
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While I never "huffed glue" as a kid, I can't say I disliked catching a whiff of that glorious Testors glue when I was working on a model.
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Mar 20, 2013 01:08
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:While I never "huffed glue" as a kid, I can't say I disliked catching a whiff of that glorious Testors glue when I was working on a model. Orangey! 
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Mar 20, 2013 13:49
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Orangey! Is that a new kind they have? When I was kid, Testors glue smelled like brain-melting chemicals.
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Mar 21, 2013 02:33
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There were (are?) two types of Testors model glue. The stuff in the orange tube that smelled good and Orangey and the stuff in the blue tube that smelled like brain melting chemicals. I always thought that Squadron Green Putty smelled pretty good, too. Must be the toluene.
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Mar 21, 2013 12:06
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Must be new then. When I was a kid, Testors just had the orange-tube, but there was no orange-smell, just the smell of your brain dying.
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Mar 22, 2013 03:23
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Testor's should sell their clear liquid cement only; it's all I've ever used. It works brilliantly and smells horrible, why would you do anything with it besides glue plastic?
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Mar 22, 2013 03:44
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Faltion posted:I am doing a modern-style tank visibly similar to an abrams and am going to avoid doing any rust effects because I think it is overdone (that and I don't recall any of the abrams and bradleys I worked around while being in a cav unit, being very rusty at all), but I do want it to look like the unit has been in heavy use in a fairly dusty environment. Nice! I look forward to seeing what someone with real life experience with AFVs can do. As for weathering, I'm still very much learning as I go. There is a ton of techniques out there; I think the main thing is to get some practice in. One thing I've noticed about those magazine/online articles from the crazy good people is that they seem to have an instinct about how all of these little techniques go together for the best effect. And it's not something you can explain, it just comes with experience. Another thing I'd say (and this is rarely mentioned on modelling web sites) is trying to get your artistic eye in as to what works or not. This is more straight-up art class stuff than strictly modelling technique, and I think its what the best modellers have. I know I've seen a build diary for a 1/72 Jadgtiger built, and the guy started with the period-correct color primer and worked up from there, but in the end it just didn't look right. I got myself a MIG pigment recently, and I'm impressed. They do mud and dirt quite well. I also find that Tamiya paints have a bunch of colors that work well as mud, earth, etc. Also, I'd say most people in this thread agree with you about some people going overboard with weathering on AFVs, especially WW2 AFVs. Somebody a few pages back said that the WW2 tanks being pulled out of Estonian swamps today are in better condition than some of the examples you see kicking around the 'net. Anyway... Revell Germany 1/72 T-72 m1. I can already hear EE saying "not the right green!" So, uh, let me say I was trying something new with color and it didn't work: I wanted the light green over a dark green wash for a faded look. I think it still looks sun faded, but not quite what I pictured. Scale modelling! WE LEARN THROUGH DOING Also, getting high off lacquer thinner for inspiration With East German markings.  I wanted to do a wash to create faded look, but it didn't really work. I also tried two other techniques for weathering that worked better. (The big spotlight and the other, smaller ones are IR illuminators. In the '60s and '70s when night vision equipment was still weak, both eastern and western tanks used IR spotlights to illuminate things in the dark.  The T-72: a low tank with a big ol' gun.  The fuel tanks were weathered with the classic hairspray technique.  I used a new technique for the mud: first, using an old paint brush, slap on irregular patches of masking compound. Then, spray a wash of mud or dust over everything. Then, remove the masking compound. It creates a patchy appearance. This probably works best on desert vehicles, but I'd like to think it doesn't do too badly with mud either. A mistake I managed to fix: I accidentally broke the main barrel on the machine gun. I replaced it with a bit of steel wire.  Everything you need to know about why Main Battle Tanks happened. Take the speed, maneuverability, and ubiquity of medium tanks, and the firepower and armor of Heavy tanks, and bingo! You get Main Battle Tanks.  No idea why, but Russian tanks often carry a bit of wood around with them. 
Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 22:14
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Nebakenezzer posted:No idea why, but Russian tanks often carry a bit of wood around with them. Cool looking tanks!
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Mar 22, 2013 22:33
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Ensign Expendable posted:
I can't tell if this is playing on Marxist dogma or Saturday morning toy commercials. This terrifies me.
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Mar 23, 2013 07:10
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Nebakenezzer posted:Words Thanks, this kit I'm working on is really important to me for sentimental reasons so I'm really trying to not overdo it, but I've been really enjoying it as it's really different from working on all the gunpla I build. I've been looking through Armorama and other sites a lot recently and learning a lot of different techniques. I'm really feeling like less is more in the case of weathering. For anyone who has painted a desert color scheme, which color is more suitable: Tamiya's desert yellow, buff, or that JSDF brown? Also if anyone is interested I dumped all my photos I took a couple years ago from the 1st Cav museum into an album. My photography is god awful because I had just started learning photography at that point, but I hope it helps anyone. I'm planning to go back sometime soon, when the weather is nice and it's not midday and focus shooting the various forms of weathering present.
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Mar 23, 2013 08:17
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Atten: Canadian goons For the rest of this weekend, these guys in Calgary and I think Edmonton are having a spring sale. 25% off all kits - you're welcome. I bought a 1/72 Drakken and a 1/72 He 219 'Owl'
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Mar 23, 2013 19:46
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Jonny Nox posted:I can't tell if this is playing on Marxist dogma or Saturday morning toy commercials. This terrifies me. I was going for the Enemy at the Gates "the one with the rifle shoots, the one without a rifle follows" vibe.
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Mar 23, 2013 19:51
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Ensign Expendable posted:I was going for the Enemy at the Gates "the one with the rifle shoots, the one without a rifle follows" vibe.  Also, let me say that your avatar/title is awesome.
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Mar 23, 2013 19:58
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