|
daslog posted:Sounds like you have the infamous Subaru Rod knock. Your engine is in the process of spinning a Rod bearing is what it sounds like to me. This is correct. And it's bad in your car. It's safe to drive until it blows up. But start saving up now for a rebuild or salvage motor, it's only a matter of time.
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 20:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 15:55 |
|
|
daslog posted:Sounds like you have the infamous Subaru Rod knock. Your engine is in the process of spinning a Rod bearing is what it sounds like to me. This is why you check your oil every fill up. You should never "run low" especially on these motors. Suspect the PO did it too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 21:05
|
|
|
It's like a piston version of a rotary. Oil consumption by design  I have the all aluminium Mishimoto radiator. No complaints about quality other than a crappy cap that you can easily replace.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 23:00
|
|
|
I have a Koyo. It is also fine, though the price is a bit much for a non-tracked car.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 23:03
|
|
|
There isn't a koyo or mishimoto specifically for the forester. I would think something from another car might fit but I can't say for sure. I need to figure out the same thing for my own car one of these days. Both sites have dimensions http://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-radiator-performance-aluminum.html http://koyoradracing.com/products/radiators.asp?make=Subaru If you measure your core we could probably figure something out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 00:34
|
|
|
BatDan posted:I have recently started having a new frightening sound coming from my Saabaru. Perhaps someone can help me identify what the problem might be? It's winter and I have had to stop driving the car which sucks because this thing is so much drat fun in the snow. And we have plenty of snow here in Cleveland. Ive been though this twice already and I can assure you it is new engine time.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 00:44
|
|
|
Billy Tully posted:Ive been though this twice already and I can assure you it is new engine time. I figured as much. When I heard the noise I immediately suspected a bearing failure. It seems it may be time to educate myself on rebuilding a wrx engine. I don't like the idea of putting all the effort required to swap in a used engine that may also fail soon. I have the factory service manual so I think I'll need to take a look at that to see what's involved. A lot of resources on the web all discuss modifying the engine for more power. My other car is a miata I autocross so the power in the Saab always feels massive. I think it'll all stay stock except for things that improve reliability. Eh this is gonna suck and be expensive no matter what. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 00:59
|
|
|
Latest issue on my 2004 Wrx wagon: no A/C as of today. Worked fine when last used in December. Pretty sure the defrost has been run more recently but the wife drives this car mostly and she can't recall. The little green LED comes on steady when pushed, like normal but the compressor does not move. The fuse in the cabin was fine and I tried swapping the relay with one of the fan relays with no change. With the a/c "on' I checked the voltage going to the relay and got about 13.5 volts. I really don't know what I do next short of taking it to the mechanic. I understand the compressor will not engage with no 134a in the system but I don't know how I go about checking that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 01:04
|
|
|
BatDan posted:I figured as much. When I heard the noise I immediately suspected a bearing failure. It seems it may be time to educate myself on rebuilding a wrx engine. I don't like the idea of putting all the effort required to swap in a used engine that may also fail soon. It's going to be ALOT easier to swap in a used or new 2.0 shortblock and call it a day. Daslogs thread goes into discussion of building a subaru block, splitting the case etc). Something I personally wouldn't do. Your other options besides 2.0 swap. Brand new 2.5 STi block and have your heads CNC'd out. If you want to do a poverty give no fucks build build you could mess with 2.2NA and your wrx heads.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 01:17
|
|
|
ABS light on my '96 Outback came on. What easy things should I check before dropping it off at the shop and spending big bucks? I have heard the relays sometimes go, anything else?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 02:28
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:It's going to be ALOT easier to swap in a used or new 2.0 shortblock and call it a day. Daslogs thread goes into discussion of building a subaru block, splitting the case etc). Something I personally wouldn't do. Geez, a brand new 2.0 shortblock appears to be over $1700. Rebuilding my own shortblock must be cheaper than that. How hard can it be? I'll have to check Daslog's thread.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 03:58
|
|
|
Ok this thread has made me paranoid. My rex makes a light ticking at around 1500-2000ish rpm. Is it just everyday run of the mil boxer piston slap? All 3 of my cars have made similar noises.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 10:22
|
|
|
Chiwie posted:Ok this thread has made me paranoid. My rex makes a light ticking at around 1500-2000ish rpm. Is it just everyday run of the mil boxer piston slap? All 3 of my cars have made similar noises. What oil are you using and what is your oil consumption like?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 11:08
|
|
|
10-40w at the moment. That said I'm moving up to 15-50w when I service it this weekend. Right now it doesn't seem to be drinking oil. I'll keep track of it from the next change. (1st change for the car since I brought it, owner had it serviced right before I picked it up.)
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 11:58
|
|
|
While I would recommend changing oil to see if it has a positive effect on the noise, I would recommend against going with such a heavy oil. Such heavy oils are really only appropriate in engines that see high temperatures, not daily drivers. Try another brand of 10W-40, or another oil popular in the WRX community, such as Rotella T6 5W-40 or Mobil 1 0W-40. More than likely your engine is fine, Subaru calls it a "nondestructive noise" IIRC. Going with a thicker oil to stop the noise is barking up the wrong tree and can cause lubrication problems (thinner oils lubricate and cool the engine better). People do have success simply switching brands.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 13:48
|
|
|
Why would you run any oil weight besides what Subaru recommends?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:09
|
|
|
daslog posted:Why would you run any oil weight besides what Subaru recommends? tick tick tick tick tick
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:23
|
|
|
I'd like to ask you guys your opinion on a problem I have before I start throwing parts at it. 4-5 days ago we had a foot of snow, I drove about 10 miles through said snow completely unplowed and now my 99 RS has completely random hesitation/sputtering in closed loop. I checked for vacuum leaks, couldn't find any. Checked almost every wire for a short, including fuses. I found the wire connector for my front o2 sensor melted a bit and 1 of the 3 wires is exposed. I taped it off and hung it out of the way as a temp fix, I also found that the connector to my coil pack has an exposed wire on the wire harness, of which looks like it's been pinched. Taped that off as a temp fix as well. The coil pack wire issue looks really old. I then found that my exhaust bolts kind of rattled their way loose at the heads (precat flange) could the snow have gotten in there and hit the front o2? I reset the ecu cleaning the grounds etc and i'm still waiting for the monitors to finish cycling, so far i'm waiting on catalyst and evap to finish and I have a p0130 o2 sensor code. I've read mixed things about front o2 sensors causing hesitation and some say it simply can not cause hesitation. Could it? Could the unsecure bolts of the precat to header flange cause a missfire from back-pressure? I've replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs so far, the only things I can think of to do would be replace o2 sensor, coil pack, spark plug wires and repair the damage to the wire harness to the coil pack. Mind you this hesitation is absolutely random as all hell. I can drive 30-40 miles without it happening a single time then bam out of no where it does it. Or I can try to pull out of my driveway and it sputters, losing all power but not wanting to stall out at all.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:33
|
|
|
Saerjin posted:I'd like to ask you guys your opinion on a problem I have before I start throwing parts at it. Front O2s can cause weird poo poo to happen. Rear ones don't really do much.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:52
|
|
|
Hi 99 RS buddy! My 99 RS had a new O2 sensor from Rock Auto. It was bucking and hesitating like crazy. Eventually it threw an O2 preheater failure. Replacing the O2 sensor with an NGK one fixed it all.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:59
|
|
|
daslog posted:Why would you run any oil weight besides what Subaru recommends? Some times I drive in 34 to 40 degree celsius ambient weather during summer. I would rather be careful and it's currently running 10-40w mobile at the moment Neptr posted:While I would recommend changing oil to see if it has a positive effect on the noise, I would recommend against going with such a heavy oil. Such heavy oils are really only appropriate in engines that see high temperatures, not daily drivers. Try another brand of 10W-40, or another oil popular in the WRX community, such as Rotella T6 5W-40 or Mobil 1 0W-40. Cheers, if the ticking stays with the heavier motul competition stuff I'll look into mobil 1.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 15:03
|
|
|
daslog posted:Why would you run any oil weight besides what Subaru recommends? Because Jamal told me too  And if you followed everything Subaru says, your OCI would have hosed your turbo engine during a few years ago (7500mile change iirc).  I'm kidding about the Jamal part, but I run 5w40 T6 in my wagon since it lightly consumes oil and the 40weight part only effects an up-to-temperature engine while remaining thin at startup.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 15:14
|
|
|
I know 10w-30 and 10w40 are recommend on 2004 WRX STI for temps from -4 degrees F up to the top of the scale (104 degrees). However, the newer models (starting in 2011 based on your model) are requiring 0W-20 for Non-turbos and 5w-30 for turbos. I expect to hear horror stories on these cars as people don't follow the specs. These engines are being engineered for these weights because of fuel economy regs, and I wouldn't want to be the guy that blows it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 15:33
|
|
|
Saerjin posted:I've read mixed things about front o2 sensors causing hesitation and some say it simply can not cause hesitation. Could it? In my experience, yes, and if you're getting a code for it, it probably needs to be replaced anyways if you have to pass an inspection at some point.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 15:42
|
|
|
daslog posted:Hi 99 RS buddy! That's what I was thinking too. Rockauto has denso as well, which I do believe denso is OE for Subaru. I also failed to mention my cat is gutted and I have a non fouler spacer in the rear o2 to avoid a code. I wasn't sure if the poor seal on the flange was the root of my cause, I think it is though in damaging the front o2. Thank you for your input. Going to order a new o2 today.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 15:47
|
|
|
Saerjin posted:That's what I was thinking too. Rockauto has denso as well, which I do believe denso is OE for Subaru. I got mine at Advance Auto parts for 60~70 bucks. It came with a one year warranty as well. My Cat's are gutted too. Where did you get the spacer from? I need to buy one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 16:00
|
|
|
daslog posted:I know 10w-30 and 10w40 are recommend on 2004 WRX STI for temps from -4 degrees F up to the top of the scale (104 degrees). However, the newer models (starting in 2011 based on your model) are requiring 0W-20 for Non-turbos and 5w-30 for turbos. Subaru says you can top off your 0W-20 with 5W-30. I wonder how much they consider a top off to be.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 16:03
|
|
|
On of Subaru's mistake is that they expect their engines to burn some oil. People don't check their oil anymore, and if they burn more than a quart over 7500 miles then there is going to be a problem.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Mikemo my 08 Legacy has the same problem and as someone mentioned the cause is most likely bad solder in the board that works the airbag lights in the console overhead. I'm going to do that repair "soon" and will update here when I do (photo steps are available on a Subaru forum you can find). It's clear to me that's the issue because those lights work sporadically.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 16:50
|
|
|
daslog posted:if they burn more than a quart over 7500 miles then there is going to be a problem. I wish I could make it that far between top ups. Over the course of THREE oil changes (3000miles between), I've gone through an extra 4L of Rotella.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 17:17
|
|
|
daslog posted:I got mine at Advance Auto parts for 60~70 bucks. It came with a one year warranty as well. Ah my friend! In for a treat. Go to Advance, look for Spark Plug Non-Fouler. Comes in a pack of 2... Package should say P0420 at the top left, the brand I used was called "Help! Spark Plug Non-Fouler 18mm" Take a 1/2 inch drill bit (I think that was the size) and completely bore out one of the two non-foulers. Be sure not to damage the threads on either end. Then screw the bored out one into the virgin non-fouler but be very careful as it will shear easily (learned this from experience) that said, i'd buy 2 packs of them and return one if you don't use it, or just save it for another time. Once they are both screwed together, screw in your o2 sensor and throw it into the cat! Doing it this way will save you $10-40 depending on where you buy one and does the exact same thing. For a more secure spacer, weld the two non-foulers together for a lifelong endevour. I didn't bother doing that, just added security since the threads are somewhat weak since you drilled out the first non-fouler. This also allows for very easy removal of the o2 sensor in the event that you need to replace it, just remember to be very careful you don't shear the non-fouler by over torquing. Hope that helps! p.s did you get a universal o2? Saerjin fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 17:51
|
|
|
That works. thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
For the older EJs, the manual recommended different oil weights for different conditions, from 5w30 all the way up to 20w50 for "extreme temperatures and towing." Somewhere along the way, likely in order to improve fuel economy, they've gone down to 5w30 across the board (I'm ignoring the new FA/FB). However, nothing changed mechanically in the engine. Oil passages, oil pump, bearing clearances, etc are all the same as they always were. However, a wrx for example revs the engine higher, has more oil demand for the turbo and avcs compared to say a 99 Legacy. So, in my opinion, every turbo subaru should be using 5w40 synthetic (unless all you do is commute during the winter in alaska). If you're doing some sort of racing you really need to have that in the car. Some people go to heavier oils such as 15w50 or 20w50 for high powered track cars, but you need to be monitoring oil pressure and temperature if you go that far. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 18:25
|
|
|
I get less waves from Subaru owners in my WRX than I did in my 2.5RS. I don't like this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 22:57
|
|
|
Neptr posted:I get less waves from Subaru owners in my WRX than I did in my 2.5RS. I don't like this. At least they stop asking if your car is for sale. gently caress OFF THE CAR ISN'T FOR SALE
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 23:04
|
|
|
I've basically stopped waving because all the 08+ Imprezas/WRXes/STIs don't bother returning my wave, instead preferring to pretend that their sedan with a giant wing on the back is somehow cool and not awkward and quirky.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 23:12
|
|
|
daslog posted:That works. thanks! Wanna hear a funny story? I just took off my cat to diagnose the rattling issue i've had lately. Apparently when I gutted it, there were two metal rings inside the precat that were not removed thus banging around because I guess they just got loose... Probably hitting my o2 sensor 50 million times. Gonna have to cut it open remove them and weld it back shut...
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 23:31
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I've basically stopped waving because all the 08+ Imprezas/WRXes/STIs don't bother returning my wave, instead preferring to pretend that their sedan with a giant wing on the back is somehow cool and not awkward and quirky. Giving myself homework. I will wave at all subarus this week and see how many wave back with a followup trip report.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 23:57
|
|
|
I got a wave in my 09 today on I95 from a guy in a 12 or 13.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 15:55 |
|
|
I used to wave, but people tend to want to race or drive like maniacs just because I bought the same car as them, so now I ignore everyone.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 01:37
|
|