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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've basically stopped waving because all the 08+ Imprezas/WRXes/STIs don't bother returning my wave, instead preferring to pretend that their sedan with a giant wing on the back is somehow cool and not awkward and quirky. Sorry, they didn't tell me I was supposed to do that when I took delivery.  EDIT: blargle posted:I used to wave, but people tend to want to race or drive like maniacs just because I bought the same car as them, so now I ignore everyone. This too, though I have more dads in minivans try to pull on me for some reason.
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Mar 12, 2013 01:40
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I am scrapping my 99 2.2L SOHC (California so MAP) engine and wondered if people need anything. I have most of it, 7 good injectors, and the engine is good and the cylinders look great except for cyl #3 has a nasty burned exahust valve. The valve seat looks okay and could probably just have a valve lapped in for cheap. I have two engines worth of bolts, and tons of random fitting/clips/wiring/etc if anyone needs anything. Just pay some small amount of money and shipping, its all in great shape! I also have a black and a green power LH side mirror, front and right side front power window motors and rails, and some interior parts.
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Mar 12, 2013 01:53
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Grab me a piston for my desk. I want EJ22 goodness.  A random bag of bolts probably wouldn't be untoward either.
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Mar 12, 2013 02:08
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I would pay you to just comb junkyards in Cali and mail me bags of factory plated metric bolts. Just strip all those golden beauties from their resting places so they can be abused in the salts of Ontario.
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Mar 12, 2013 02:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Grab me a piston for my desk. I want EJ22 goodness. +1 on that. I'd pay for a cool paper weight - filthy or otherwise.
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Mar 12, 2013 02:58
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blargle posted:I used to wave, but people tend to want to race or drive like maniacs just because I bought the same car as them, so now I ignore everyone. I usually wave when they're coming towards me. Everyone's been pretty nice. I've only once gotten someone to race me, and it was a modified SRT-4 Caliber 
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Mar 12, 2013 03:07
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I drove next to a cute blonde with a new STI in traffic for miles yesterday. She didn't look or wave.
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Mar 12, 2013 03:17
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I didn't know I was supposed to wave. I thought that was for Jeep Wranglers and Harley Davidsons and bicyclists who aren't up their own rear end about having a more expensive bike than you. I'll keep an eye out and wave.
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Mar 12, 2013 03:29
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DJ Commie posted:I am scrapping my 99 2.2L SOHC (California so MAP) engine and wondered if people need anything. I have most of it, 7 good injectors, and the engine is good and the cylinders look great except for cyl #3 has a nasty burned exahust valve. The valve seat looks okay and could probably just have a valve lapped in for cheap. I have two engines worth of bolts, and tons of random fitting/clips/wiring/etc if anyone needs anything. Just pay some small amount of money and shipping, its all in great shape! Any chance you have ABS parts? I need the two relays on the top.
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Mar 12, 2013 03:31
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Count me in for a piston. I need something to balance out the Dr Who crap and compliment these guys on my desk at work:
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Mar 12, 2013 03:33
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toplitzin posted:Count me in for a piston. I need something to balance out the Dr Who crap and compliment these guys on my desk at work: My significant other thought it would be hilarious to tease me in saying she got me a STI for Christmas... Only for it to be that red Hotwheels car!
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Mar 12, 2013 03:35
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I have an 09 and I always wave back I do get a wave from a guy in a blue 350Z that has the opposite commute as me almost every day though
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Mar 12, 2013 05:06
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jamal posted:For the older EJs, the manual recommended different oil weights for different conditions, from 5w30 all the way up to 20w50 for "extreme temperatures and towing." 5w40 Lubro-moly (I suspect other higher-end syns would be fine) does well at high track temps. Still keeps good pressure at 130C -- also, the UOI showed it was fine. I need an oil cooler. . . . (I don't do track days in the summer now) 5w30 pentosyn was a bit thin above 110C. On the 2005 LGTs, subaru recommends 5w30 for most temps and 10w40 for hot temps. 5w40 covers both. ---- No one waves in SoCal. Everyone here is a jerk edit: gently caress boost leaks forever. nm fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Mar 12, 2013 |
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Mar 12, 2013 05:15
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nm posted:There's nobody else to wave at in SoCal. Everyone here is a jerk Fixed that for you. Apart from the meets here and there, it's a loving mission to find another subaru on the streets of LA.
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Mar 12, 2013 05:27
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Does anyone know where to source fog light "lenses" for my 2011 STi? They both cracked; I'm think as a result from being hot on the bulb side and snowpacked on the outside. They work fine though. Any warranty chance? Clearly no rock impacts. Also I don't wave, most WRX owners look retarded.
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Mar 12, 2013 16:42
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Does anyone know where to source fog light "lenses" for my 2011 STi? They both cracked; I'm think as a result from being hot on the bulb side and snowpacked on the outside. They work fine though. One of mine was clearly shattered by a rock and the other was just cracked and I couldn't claim warranty on either. I think your SOL, which sucks because they're an expensive part.
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Mar 12, 2013 17:56
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Gigi Galli posted:One of mine was clearly shattered by a rock and the other was just cracked and I couldn't claim warranty on either. I think your SOL, which sucks because they're an expensive part. Do you remember what parts you bought? I am not paying for another complete kit...
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Mar 12, 2013 20:10
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One of the foglights on my 06 is a Chinese bodyshop replacement that cost like $20 as opposed to $250. It looks almost exactly the same and it's not like I use the drat things anyway.
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Mar 12, 2013 20:31
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Does anyone know where to source fog light "lenses" for my 2011 STi? They both cracked; I'm think as a result from being hot on the bulb side and snowpacked on the outside. They work fine though. I don't know if the fog lamp lenses are the same size on the wrx vs sti, but this worked for me when I needed to change a cracked lens not too long ago. According to my dealer, it's a known issue, but SOA won't touch them for whatever reason. IIRC, you're pretty much stuck with buying a brand spanking new lamp assembly if you want to fix it using dealer-sourced (somewhere around $150-250/pair but don't quote me on that) parts.
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Mar 12, 2013 21:35
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Hey look what I did today:
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Mar 12, 2013 22:54
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Anyone who's done shifter bushings, did you notice a small (but noticeable) NVH increase in regards to trans whine?
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Mar 13, 2013 02:39
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Yep. I also get the occasional rattle.
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Mar 13, 2013 02:43
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jamal posted:Yep. I also get the occasional rattle. I have yet to hear an Impreza 5 speed that doesn't rattle at high RPM in 3rd.
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Mar 13, 2013 02:45
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If you can still hear the transmission at high RPM in 3rd you're not doing it right. Because Awful.apk seems to have eaten it, here's my contribution to the high mileage Subaru club.  Original engine I think... not original trans because I swapped it for one that didn't sound like a rock tumbler.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:46
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Awful Betamax works with the new forum much better.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:53
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It was Betamax. It took my attachment, let me finish up my post and then doesn't seem to have done anything after I posted it. First time I've ever tried the attachment feature though, so who knows. We'll find out if it spontaneously makes the post in the middle of the night or something.
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Mar 13, 2013 05:06
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I swapped it for one that didn't sound like a rock tumbler.
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Mar 13, 2013 06:26
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I just bought a new WRX. It's my first new car and I'm pretty drat stoked about it. Some things--should I abide by the manual's easy break in procedure, or should I do what that one internet guy says and drive the hell out of it? Also, I remember old turbo engines needed to be left running for a minute or two to let them cool down before shutting them off. Should I be doing this with my WRX? I've only revved it up to 4K at this point--it feels like a rocket ship compared to the Accord I was driving previously. The dealership was asking a lollertastic $5K over MSRP as a "regional supply surcharge"--I talked them down to MSRP with little to no effort. In fact, it was so easy that I regret not talking them down further. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 07:14
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il serpente cosmico posted:I just bought a new WRX. It's my first new car and I'm pretty drat stoked about it. a) Unless you are HAMMERING the car (and by that I mean genuine on the track go like hell), you do not need to idle down. There is a water tank above the turbo that stops the old turbo car issues. The best way to cool down after a hard drive is to reduce speed and coast / idle about for a km or two anyway. b) The recommended run in out of the mouth of Subaru to me was drive it like you stole it but dont go over 4000-4500 rpm. I have heard nothing to contradict that and that's exactly what I did. That tends to get confirmed a fair bit as a valid break in method. On running in, the engine actually wont be at it's 100% best until you get about 20,000kms on it - It's always been the nature of boxer motors to take a while to really free up
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Mar 13, 2013 07:32
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Cat Terrist posted:a) Unless you are HAMMERING the car (and by that I mean genuine on the track go like hell), you do not need to idle down. There is a water tank above the turbo that stops the old turbo car issues. The best way to cool down after a hard drive is to reduce speed and coast / idle about for a km or two anyway. Thanks! I can't wait to get past the break in to really let it rip. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 08:14
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Don't miss your first oil change!
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Mar 13, 2013 12:04
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daslog posted:Don't miss your first oil change! The maintenance manual says to do it after the first 7.5K. Should I be doing it earlier?
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Mar 13, 2013 12:21
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il serpente cosmico posted:The maintenance manual says to do it after the first 7.5K. Should I be doing it earlier? I know tuners say 1k miles for motor swaps I think it's the same since you have break in oil.
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Mar 13, 2013 12:37
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il serpente cosmico posted:The maintenance manual says to do it after the first 7.5K. Should I be doing it earlier? What? Really? I'd be changing oil at no more than 1500km from new. New motors tend to have metal particles from bedding in bits circulating and that's not a good thing for a long time. Part of the breaking in procedure is flushing the crap out of the engine. 7.5K really sounds just too long for my liking. 1500kms should be where you do first service. (What is true on Subarus is that you switch to synthetic at 7.5K's, because otherwise the motor doesn't get the chance to bed properly. Well, any car shouldn't go to synth until first oil change but with a boxer motor's tendancy to take a while to bed in, it's more important)
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Mar 13, 2013 12:55
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McSpatula posted:I don't know if the fog lamp lenses are the same size on the wrx vs sti, but this worked for me when I needed to change a cracked lens not too long ago. If they don't warranty them this is likely what I'll do. Heuberger Subaru will sell the parts at 25% off, making it 200 bucks. No deal. Edit: break in discussion When I bout my STi new I mostly kept it under 4k tpms but went almost to redline once and above 4k a couple times. I guess I just drove it normally. That said, i was always in "intellegent" mode which means it never got 100% throttle till over 1k miles. Since then the car has been autocrossed (first event at 1500 miles), commuted in, and driven in all conditions and burns almost no oil. Maybe a fifth of a court between some but not all oil changes. Also I use Amsoil SSO 5w30. The jury seems to be out on what the factory fill is, but I did my first oil change at 981 miles with Subaru synthetic, then switched later to the Amsoil. A local Subaru guy that I generally trust said that the Subaru synthetic is actually quite good. I don't remember the name of the manufacturer he gave me, but it's out of Japan and supposedly one of the best. I still use the Amsoil since at this point it's tried and true, but just some thoughts. I can't really confirm what cat was saying about the motor taking a while to reach 100% output wise, but I do know that my gas mileage steadily improved till about 11k miles. Then winter gas and tires came and I don't think the data set is useful past that. In my mind that lends credibility to his comments. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Mar 13, 2013 |
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Mar 13, 2013 14:40
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What would cause a boost leak to just disappear randomly? I had a boost leak occur on Monday. No vacuum loss. It was clearly a boost leak with a loss of boost (from about 1200kpa to 700 kpa max), weird activity under throttle, etc. Planned to find it on saturday This morning is was acting weird and then I gave it a bit of gas on an on ramp, everything sorted out and now it runs normal. The gently caress? Maybe a bypass valve issue? Dunno if it will come back. Only drove a few miles. No codes, no running issues besides just boost disappearing.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:27
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Cat Terrist posted:What? Really? I'd be changing oil at no more than 1500km from new. New motors tend to have metal particles from bedding in bits circulating and that's not a good thing for a long time. Part of the breaking in procedure is flushing the crap out of the engine. I was surprised by the 7.5K figure as well--I haven't owned a new car before, but I did recall my friends and family who have owned new cars had always done an oil change pretty early on in the car's life. I'll get it changed after break in.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:30
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The 7K is what Subaru does for all their cars now.
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Mar 13, 2013 20:59
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I wish I'd sent my oil off now for analysis at 7.5k so I could contribute more than just saying that I didn't change my oil till 7.5k and nothing has blown up yet! NASIOC seems pretty divided on the issue but it's what the manual recommends so it'll at least be covered by warranty if something does gently caress up.
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Mar 13, 2013 21:06
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I'm torn also. You have an oil filter which takes care of the particles, but there are going to be way more of them for this oil change compared to (hopefully) every other one from here on out. It's only a few bucks to do it, so just pay the money for peace of mind.nm posted:What would cause a boost leak to just disappear randomly? Do an actual leak test. It doesn't sound "clearly" like a boost leak.
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Mar 13, 2013 21:45
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