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wormil posted:These are very nice, are the dark bands on the yellowheart just friction burned? Thanks. Yeah, the one on the rim is actually just a permanent marker!
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Mar 14, 2013 20:53
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Tempus Fugit posted:Super jealous. I've had a Roubo bench on my to-do for almost 2 years now and still haven't started it. I'm about this close to ordering a shitload of yellow pine for it too. How many hours do you have in it, do you think? You should do it. If you've got more money than time, though, go ahead and order all the hardware. Making everything from scratch is a pain some times. I wish I had built one years ago. I've been using it since it was just a top sitting on two saw horses. It's just so solid it makes every task easier. The leg vise is pretty handy, too, but I can't wait until I get the tail vise built. I couldn't even begin to guess at how many hours I have in it, but I'm sure there's at least 50 hours in it so far. I'm using a combination of power tools and hand tools to build it, though. It's also mostly white oak, so yellow pine should go much faster for the most part. My dad's been woodworking for his whole life, and the only time he ever had a bench like this was in school, so when he started using mine it made him jealous. I guess I'll be able to take all the things I learned from this one and make another.
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Mar 14, 2013 23:35
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Tempus Fugit posted:Finished the whisky cabinet I was working on and got it hung this weekend. Goddamn thing is huge. run a strip of wood in front of the LED rope light. It will back light everything and not draw your eyes to the lights. I did a Crown molding using LED rope light and you can see how you get a nice even lighting covering it up. 
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Mar 14, 2013 23:55
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JEEVES420 posted:run a strip of wood in front of the LED rope light. It will back light everything and not draw your eyes to the lights. I looked at that when I was building it. It looked a bit odd having that strip of wood just hanging there, but I might go back and do it. Good suggestion. I also want whatever is causing that tiny supernova in your bar.
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Mar 15, 2013 18:33
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One Legged Ninja posted:You should do it. If you've got more money than time, though, go ahead and order all the hardware. Making everything from scratch is a pain some times. I figure if I'm going to do it, I'll do it right and order some benchcrafted vices. I think you just convinced me to get started.
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Mar 15, 2013 18:38
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Tempus Fugit posted:I looked at that when I was building it. It looked a bit odd having that strip of wood just hanging there, but I might go back and do it. Good suggestion. I also want whatever is causing that tiny supernova in your bar. what about a curved/slanted piece of trim so that it slants from the roof back?
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Mar 16, 2013 01:01
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Here's the speakers I built for my girlfriend's birthday. The sides are oak and I hand cut dovetails for the joinery. The front and back are MDF, I used a router to countersink the drivers and bevel the edge of the faceplate. The back sits flush with the box, I put some pine bracing in the back with weatherstripping to flush mount it and seal it. I bought the drivers and internals from a local supplier, they were pretty cheap but sound pretty good, I want to change out the crossover because I just used some crappy calculator online and didn't spend the time to do it properly so they sound pretty bright, need to balance the sensitivity of the tweeter with the woofer.  I had to spend a bit of time to clean the dovetails up on the first box, on the second I was starting to get the hang of them  I still need to put a few more coats of clear on the MDF and spend some time sanding and buffing, I want to go for a mirror finish. Also need a few coats of poly on the sides, but I needed them for a party so here they are.  Close up of the dovetails.
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Mar 16, 2013 02:05
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Tempus Fugit posted:Have you ever played with something like Mylands Friction Polish?. You apply it while the piece is still on the lathe and it builds really fast. You can do a multiple coat application in about 5-10 minutes and it looks really good. I think shellac is tougher to work with than a lot of people think. Those two are really nice. The only thing that I have come across is Danish oil, the local store is somewhat limited in the supply and I have to order anything that's special from a webstore. Really not a problem except for postage and handling cost. The problem I have with shellac is that it closes to fast, or dries perhaps. With not being durable, does that mean that it's easy for the wood to get discolored, that the finish needs to be redone (frequently)? I don't know myself if using shellac on a candle will hold against hot wax dripping anyway. Thanks for the tip, I'll try to find out where to get them.
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Mar 17, 2013 10:15
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erephus posted:Those two are really nice. Aside from the Woodturner's Catalog I posted, I've seen the Mylands in both Rockler and Woodcraft stores, but there are other brands of similar stuff too, like Hut. For beeswax, I buy it at my local Ace Hardware for like $2. You're right, the wax does need to be reapplied every so often, the friction coats don't. Good luck
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Mar 17, 2013 18:36
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erephus posted:The problem I have with shellac is that it closes to fast, or dries perhaps. Are you using pre-mixed liquid shellac? It usually comes pretty thick. You can read more about it here: http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/mixing-shellac.aspx
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Mar 17, 2013 18:54
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So I recently discovered that I have access to a laser eengraver/cutter. It's awesome and I love using it so far! We're going to make a set of Catan tiles, based on a template someone else had made up. http://www.charliemooney.com/projects/settlers.php I'm going to copy it mostly to the letter, though I'm thinking about expanding it for the six player version (12 more tiles). So I'm about to buy some acrylic paints and sandpaper, so I can clean the carbon off and then do a thin wash of color. Is there anything I should use to finish the tiles after they're painted? I've never done anything like this before.
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Mar 19, 2013 17:15
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Guitarchitect posted:haha, I am starting to realize that - i keep reminding myself that I need furniture more than I need another tool! but making a nice little block plane won't be so bad, right? hehe Well if you make nice tools you'll make nicer furniture! Bad Munki posted:What is this bullshit? < I KNOW RIGHT. Tools > furniture. So.. our tool party is at your house right? Okay post your spoons now, and what spoon carving stuff you have, because I just ordered some forged stuff from Del Stubbs and I need all the details.
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Mar 19, 2013 21:43
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Not an Anthem posted:Well if you make nice tools you'll make nicer furniture! This is half true! I stumbled down that slope and am already halfway done my maple krenov block plane. Sigh. But yeah - I was getting to the point of adjusting the sole on the jointer, and my test-cuts revealed a most foul truth: my jointer knives are misaligned. If it weren't for the toolmaking I might not be in the process of truly fine-tuning my jointer... which should make the jointing of wood much easier/better, which will make for nicer furniture!
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Mar 20, 2013 01:37
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Not an Anthem posted:
Yes, "tool" party at my house. Oddly enough, that's the only spoon I've ever carved. I used a combo of a small carbide cutter ball on my dremel and then rasps and sandpaper to finish it. I enjoyed it, but for some reason have never done another  Those Del Stubbs Pinewood forge tools are supposed to be great, you should definitely post some photos when they show up. For some reason the spoon carving lead into relief carving ala Peter Follansbee and I've been playing with that ever since. I did a tool caddy with carved sides -  and have been messing with carving since. If you haven't checked out Peter Follansbee, he has a good blog and some really cool instructional videos through Lie-Nielsen. BTW, gently caress Lie-Nielsen, I should just have my paycheck sent directly to them and cut out the middle man.
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Mar 20, 2013 19:07
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Way rad. Saw that in the background of another image, and yeah Peter Follansbee is awesome! Del and him went to school together.
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Mar 21, 2013 16:06
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I'm gonna crosspost this here: It's for realsies time to buy a bandsaw. I talk about this about once a year around this time (my birthday) but this year, I have a shop roughly three times the size of my old one, and I'm going to be here for a while so I want to pull the trigger. Aside from the normal bandsaw stuff, my other primary use will also be to resaw logs/boards from various local hardwoods. With that in mind, I need a big resaw capacity, and I figure I'll need at least a couple horsepower. I would like to keep a budget of around a grand, although if I could get a hugely better tool for a couple hundred more, I could probably swing that. I think last time I was looking, this Rikon bandsaw got some good recommendations, although it's a bit light on the HP. I'm also considering this Grizzly or possibly this slightly bigger Grizzly, both of which I like the stats on more than the Rikon. Any thoughts, here?
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Mar 22, 2013 14:09
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I was actually looking at that grizzly (17") the other day. If you are going to be resawing logs I would go with the bigger of the two. My friends father has that same grizzly and loves it.
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Mar 22, 2013 14:35
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Just finished a headboard for my sister-in-law. There was a bit of miscommunication in the beginning, I thought she wanted it to be back, so I made it out of poplar. My intent was to ebonize it. But she actually wanted this color. I did a lot of experimenting with the finish, gel stains, water based, xylene based. Different combinations with and without seal coats. In the end I ended up using wood dye. It was really easy to apply, though I still had some blotching problems with the poplar. I had never upholstered anything before either so that was kind of fun. And a little box: 
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Mar 22, 2013 14:40
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mds2 posted:I was actually looking at that grizzly (17") the other day. If you are going to be resawing logs I would go with the bigger of the two. My friends father has that same grizzly and loves it. They have two versions of the 17", one is about $900 and the other is $1100. The differences being cast iron trunions, 5 1/2" inches more in one direction on the table, a cast iron fence, the nice tall resawing fence, and a couple other features. Which one were you looking at? I'm bummed I don't have a way to deal with unloading a >400 pound pallet from my truck at home. I'm just a few hours away from their BIG showroom (which they claim is the biggest machinery showroom in the world) and I could just pick the thing up myself and spend a day wandering through all their stuff, but then I'd be stuck trying to unload it myself at home, which would probably mean renting a fork and damaging something. 
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Mar 22, 2013 15:06
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Bad Munki posted:They have two versions of the 17", one is about $900 and the other is $1100. The differences being cast iron trunions, 5 1/2" inches more in one direction on the table, a cast iron fence, the nice tall resawing fence, and a couple other features. Which one were you looking at? My co-worker was actually in the market for a bandsaw this week, so I was looking at pretty much all of them on the market with him. He was looking at the Rikon you posted pretty hard but settled on a Craftsman(wtf). I was trying to sway him towards grizzly, just based off of my other friends fathers praises. If I had the cash to spend I'd get the heavier duty of the two, because why the hell not. Are you talking about the Springfield plant? I've never been but my grandpa sent me some pictures when he was there last year. It is fricken huge! Grab three friends to help you unload it.
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Mar 22, 2013 15:17
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The Springfield showroom is a paltry 120,000 sq. ft. The Muncy, PA showroom is a much more respectable 430,000 sq. ft. I hear tell some kids have gone in there with their fathers, and come out with their own grandchildren. http://www.grizzly.com/showrooms Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 15:30
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I literally laughed out loud at your post. Are there bandsaws still made in the USA? Or is everything made in Taiwan now?
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Mar 22, 2013 15:42
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Sounds like Taiwan and China, but so are all the other brands in my budget (at least so far as I'm aware) so I'm not too worried about that. v v
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Mar 22, 2013 15:47
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Bad Munki posted:I'm gonna crosspost this here: I have a Grizzly 14 inch, [http://www.grizzly.com/products/The-Ultimate-14-Bandsaw/G0555]this one,[/url] and I love it. I don't do a ton of resawing, so I didn't go for the bigger one, but what I do resaw I can do pretty effortlessly on the 14". I put a Kreg fence with a resaw guide on it and it's like butter. I think the Grizzly bandsaws could be the best saw for the money.
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Mar 22, 2013 17:37
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When you do resaw, what kind of stuff are you cutting? For instance, I've got a bunch of maple that is hard as a rock (I have no idea what type of maple it is, but it's by far the hardest maple I've ever dealt with), and some osage too, which can be a bitch to work with once dry.
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Mar 22, 2013 17:39
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In this video (which is the 6th part of a cool playlist), what has been done to the outside corners of the cabinet (visible at 2:27)?
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Mar 22, 2013 23:50
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zbn posted:In this video (which is the 6th part of a cool playlist), what has been done to the outside corners of the cabinet (visible at 2:27)? looks like a small beading router bit
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Mar 22, 2013 23:55
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So I took apart that DeWalt DW988 drill I got from my big box of power tools purchased off Craigslist. It was smelling like smoke so I did some research and discovered the culprit was likely to be worn brushes. After opening it up I confirmed that they did indeed look pretty worn so I ordered a replacement pair off amazon for $11 and just put them in last night. Here's a comparison:  Turns out power tool motor repairs are pretty easy. Here's hoping this thing has a bunch of years of life left in it... now to test out the reciprocating saws, and circular saw I got.
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Mar 23, 2013 00:06
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MMD3 posted:So I took apart that DeWalt DW988 drill I got from my big box of power tools purchased off Craigslist. The ones on the left don't look particularly worn?
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Mar 23, 2013 00:31
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Those brushes still had life left. They eventually wear down until they don't make contact anymore and then they need to be replaced. Burning smell might have been gunk getting burned up by friction
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Mar 23, 2013 01:00
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Bad Munki posted:I'm gonna crosspost this here: I have that same 17 inch Grizzly, it's a great saw. I just bought a bunch of knobs at McMaster Carr to convert it to tool free guides too, wish I had done that two years ago. I've done a lot of light resale work with my 1/4 inch Diemaster in the past because I didn't want to take the time to throw a resale blade on. I have no complaints on the saw. Buy it and enjoy. I use the heck out of it now, my old bandsaw was a 12 inch Craftsman that shook so bad it couldn't cut a straight line. The Grizzly was a pretty significant upgrade. Edit: I should add that at the time I bought mine, I was considering the "standard" model but ultimately decided to get the heavy duty version (the X2). I'm glad I did because with all the times I've grabbed the table to steer the saw around the shop on the mobile base, I don't have to worry about bending something when I move it around. The resaw fence is pretty nice too. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 02:16
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zbn posted:In this video (which is the 6th part of a cool playlist), what has been done to the outside corners of the cabinet (visible at 2:27)? Looks like a simple bead from a scratch stock
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Mar 23, 2013 02:24
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LordOfThePants posted:I have that same 17 inch Grizzly, it's a great saw. I just bought a bunch of knobs at McMaster Carr to convert it to tool free guides too, wish I had done that two years ago. I've done a lot of light resale work with my 1/4 inch Diemaster in the past because I didn't want to take the time to throw a resale blade on. Man, it's such a huge bandsaw, but I want it so bad. My only concern is that my garage is only wired for 110, and they say that at 110, it needs a 30A circuit, so I'd have to run ANOTHER circuit...after the dedicated 20A I ran for my tablesaw, I'm down to just one last breakout in my panel. So I guess I'd have a couple options: 1) Re-run the 20A as a 30A (with 10 gauge instead of 12) and replace the GFCI breaker with a bigger one, share it between the tools 2) Run another circuit and use up that last breakout in the panel, hope I don't need any more 3) Go nuts and put in a sub panel in the garage, might as well rip out a bunch of loving drywall and put poo poo behind the walls and do it right I'm tempted to do #3, honestly, because it'd mean my breaker panel for everything in the shop is right there, and while I was doing that, I could run air lines behind the walls and the like: I've got a rapid air kit waiting to be installed. However, I really don't want to patch a bunch of drywall, and the ceiling is textured which I think is dumb for a garage but there it is. #2 would probably be the easiest and could be done in a couple hours, but then I'm out of knockouts for anything else I want to add. #1 is probably my least favorite option, mostly because then I'd have cords going from the one outlet to both tools, seems like more of a hazard. Also, I only just recently finished running all that conduit and cable, I don't want to go back on that just yet. I suppose if I had a sub-panel put in, I could run it directly off of 220, which is what it comes prewired for. Then I could also re-wire my tablesaw up for 220 again and just go with that everywhere. I dunno. Either way, I can make this happen, and I think I almost certainly will, but maybe I'll get a quote for putting in a sub-panel because I don't feel like dealing with that myself, just because it'll make the whole thing take that much longer.
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Mar 23, 2013 02:40
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Bad Munki posted:Man, it's such a huge bandsaw, but I want it so bad. I don't want to make your life more complicated, but have you considered an old, American-made, used saw? I got a Walker-Turner 16" from 1940 or so for $200. Yeah, it took me a few months to restore the motor, strip, repaint, replace all bearings, and setup everything, but it's KILLER. Also, it's stylish as hell. Also it resaws a bit over 12", and with a WoodSlicer blade, it resaws clean enough for a handplane follow-up finish. I'm not suggesting you do what I did -- not many want that much of a project. I'm saying, though, that at your budget, you can often pick up a giant-killer of a 1960's Powermatic, a slick 1950's Craftsman, or many of the other big boys in ready-to-saw condition. Even those saws you listed require so much setup and tweaking that you may as well dismantle the whole thing anyway (is what I tell myself). EDIT: JESUS gently caress FOR EXAMPLE THIS loving PEACH OF A RESTORED SAW: http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=130248 That's the exact saw I have, with base, which I couldn't recommend more highly. Those wheel-cover doors? Cast iron, maybe 40 lbs. each. All iron everything DOUBLE EDIT POWER: Or maybe this pretty blue baby boy of a last-saw-you-will-ever-need? http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=130240 Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 03:26
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Cobalt60 posted:Even those saws you listed require so much setup and tweaking that you may as well dismantle the whole thing anyway (is what I tell myself). For what it's worth, that was not my experience with my Grizzly G0513X2. I spent more time wiring the circuit for it then I did setting up the saw. The first thing I did was try and resaw a 6" thick slab of hickory I had in my "smoker wood" bucket with the included (terrible) blade. The cut quality wasn't pretty, but the thickness was perfect. On an unrelated note, I bought a thing today:  It's an Incra Twin Linear router table. This is the older version of the fence system they sell now. I bought the fence, table, and an old 3HP Porter Cable plunge router that's actually made in the US for $420. Not a bad setup (the fence is amazing), although I wish it had above the table height adjustment. My only real complaint is before I bought it the workshop was completely full, so I had to move the newly built assembly table into another room in the basement to make room for this setup. My old router table was one of those stamped Craftsman setups, so this is a pretty big upgrade.
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Mar 23, 2013 22:16
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Bad Munki posted:The Springfield showroom is a paltry 120,000 sq. ft. The Muncy, PA showroom is a much more respectable 430,000 sq. ft. I hear tell some kids have gone in there with their fathers, and come out with their own grandchildren. Hot drat, I just looked up where this Muncy place is. Only a four hour drive from where I will be in two weeks. A trip to the Grizzly store is now on my to-do list. Wonder if they will ship to Australia...
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Mar 24, 2013 03:47
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Here's a dumb thing I did that I'm proud of. One of my best friends got married this weekend and he and I are both huge Star Trek fans, so for a wedding gift I made him a bat'leth—not just any bat'leth, but the Sword of Kahless. I printed out a reference picture with dimensions, freehanded one half of it on a sheet of OSB, cut it out with a jigsaw then traced both halves into a symmetrical whole and jigged out that one. I had intended to use some nicer wood, but time caught up to me and I ended up settling for some 1/2 inch plywood. It actually ended up looking pretty good once I stained it. "Hey, did anyone spoil your wedding gift yet?" "No, considering I don't have any idea what it is!" "Excellent." "Should I be worried?" "Only about where you're going to display it!" "Ugh..."Here it is on the day of the gifting in the trunk of another friend's car as we prepare to take it to the groom before the wedding with my pocketknife for perspective. I got the leather strips from Michael's the night before. If I remember right it's within one inch of scale, but I ended up taking a couple of liberties with the design. I had also wanted to do carvings, but, again, I ran out of time.  He told me I've set a new standard for gift giving. His wife is not a Trek fan. At all. edit: Now that I've got a pattern I'm planning to make another one... and maybe a matching set of mek'leth. toomanyninjas fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 04:51
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So I guess I'm bit late to planer party, but I picked up this little guy at the Webster flea market the other day:  It appears to be a Shelton (?) #4 planer. It's pretty good shape already, but I look forwards to cleaning it up some more, via the magic of electrolysis! :sci101: Also, a bit of a cross-post from the restoration thread, but I have older toolboxes I've meaning to take to the powdercoaters and so I was taking pictures of them for some before and afters, and I realized man do I have a lot of sanders:      (I even have the original pricetag for this one!)  And a small parade of other tools to be cleaned:      I,uh, might be a bit of a Craftsman fan... (And that's not even the whole collection)
ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 22:15
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Good looking plane. Must have received some extreme use... That blade is very short.
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Mar 27, 2013 06:40
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pageerror404 posted:Good looking plane. Must have received some extreme use... That blade is very short. It looks like it's missing either the chip breaker or the iron. I'm guessing the original chip breaker/iron combo was lost, and somebody retrofitted a plane blade to work with the integrated blade advance mechanism.
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Mar 27, 2013 17:22
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