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il serpente cosmico posted:What snow tires do ya'll like? I'd like to go with studless ones. I'll rarely be driving in snow around town, but I do drive up to the mountain a lot during the winter to go snowboarding. The roads are typically packed snow / slush, so I'm not too worried about ice performance. It also rains a poo poo-ton here, so wet pavement performance is a big plus. Any reason I shouldn't just grab a set of steel rims? I've got the General Altimax Arctics and they've been godly. They're 205s so super thin. I've never slipped or slid when not intended and they've been pretty good just on bare pavement. I'd get steelies or some used WRX 16s.
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Mar 20, 2013 19:10
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I have studded Arctics on two of the four cars I run. Even studless they're excellent. I've actually felt guilty when I pitch the car into a corner that I know is icy and watch the guy tailgating me nearly lose it trying to follow my line. The top five Subarus from the last season of rallycross I was running all had Arctics, minus one guy with studded KW22s. Steelies are probably a pretty good option, they like to bend instead of shatter like alloys when you run them into a curb and help deflect force away from the more expensive parts of the car. I just buy takeoff OEM alloys though. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 20, 2013 |
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Mar 20, 2013 19:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't have a rear skidplate on either car, but I could see how a diff protector would be valuable if you had something more expensive/rare than a 3.9 R160. Thanks. I ordered the rear one as well because money grows on trees or something.
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Mar 20, 2013 20:00
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I currently drive an '11 WRX with about 20k miles on it as a daily driver. This was my thought process yesterday: Man, I kinda want to get rid of this, it's killing me on gas with my commute. Let's look at that new CrossTrek, it's neat looking. *Spec out a CrossTrek, look at financials* I'm gonna check out some dealer stock, oh hey, there's exactly what I'd want. Hmm, 148 horsepower, that's gutless but I do want better fuel economy... Three hours later... Purchase Confirmed! Your cobbtuning.com Order Confirmation! I finally got around to buying an Accessport instead, I love my car too much to chuck it to save a few bucks in gas a week.
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Mar 21, 2013 13:03
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You'll get improved fuel economy with the stage 1 flash, funnily enough.
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Mar 21, 2013 13:47
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Gigi Galli posted:You'll get improved fuel economy with the stage 1 flash, funnily enough. Don't bank on it being a huge difference to be honest. Yes, it may have bumped me up 1 MPG, really the best plan is to upgrade to a 20G turbo, and never hit boost ever. I did see a difference in the economy tune though.
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Mar 21, 2013 14:00
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Yakattak posted:Don't bank on it being a huge difference to be honest. Yes, it may have bumped me up 1 MPG, really the best plan is to upgrade to a 20G turbo, and never hit boost ever. I did see a difference in the economy tune though. Well yeah, I didn't say it was significant. I got between 1 and 2 depending on the way I was driving.
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Mar 21, 2013 15:26
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Shrapnac posted:I currently drive an '11 WRX with about 20k miles on it as a daily driver. This was my thought process yesterday: They are announcing a Crosstrek hybrid next week 
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Mar 22, 2013 00:13
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CharlesM posted:They are announcing a Crosstrek hybrid next week No thanks, keep that poo poo with Toyota where it belongs
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Mar 22, 2013 00:18
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CharlesM posted:They are announcing a Crosstrek hybrid next week Hybrids are stupid, that just reaffirms my decision to just make my current car better.
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Mar 22, 2013 16:50
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BoostCreep posted:I figured this might enrage some people here. I saw this on Saturday at a local junkyard. Buy the whole thing now. Been loving mine, Its done over 6 months of work and hasnt blown a headgasket yet, a subaru first.
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Mar 23, 2013 13:28
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Does anyone happen to have a good cheat sheet when it comes to ecu logging and what everything should read? I just got into data logging and trying to learn the good normal parameters.
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Mar 23, 2013 13:55
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kaws! posted:Buy the whole thing now. Been loving mine, Its done over 6 months of work and hasnt blown a headgasket yet, a subaru first. Because head gaskets weren't the issue with the SVX 
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Mar 23, 2013 15:06
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Saerjin posted:Does anyone happen to have a good cheat sheet when it comes to ecu logging and what everything should read? I think it depends on the car but honestly contact a tuner (not necessarily in your area) like ECS or EFI Logics and ask them. They see it everyday and aren't some guy on the Internet who's WRX peaks 15 psi because the stock boost controller sucks. Also I know ECS will let you email them a datalog and they'll look it over for you.
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Mar 23, 2013 15:17
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Since it's still freezing cold here in the upper midwest I and a bunch of friends went out onto the lake to fool around and a random guy with a subaru outback showed up and started jumping his car. He got a pretty good amount of air time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnA2YiTSRvM
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Mar 23, 2013 17:43
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I got a P0030 code last week (2005 STi). I looked it up and it's the front O2 sensor, so I ordered one from the dealer and replaced it today. I took it out and noticed that it was a bit ashy; no big deal, car has a lot of miles. When it was completely out I touched the metal sheathing and it was wiggling around pretty good. Is this normal for a bad front O2 sensor? All I could think of was it breaking loose and chewing up my turbo 
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Mar 24, 2013 15:25
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Does anyone in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area have a preferred Subaru shop? Our 2003 Forester needs a new front right ball joint, so I went ahead and ordered both but I don't have a garage or a pickle fork and the strength to do it myself. This is the first time I'll be bringing parts to a mechanic to put on, what's the best way to do this? Just bring it in with the parts in the passenger seat and let them know I've got my own?
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Mar 24, 2013 16:12
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Maybe this is more of a "negotiating for a used car" question, but here it goes. Since my 2008 WRX was totaled (grumble) I've found a promising 2010 online. The ad claims it is the Premium edition, but it lacks the main features of that package (no front seat heaters, no audio controls on the wheel, no disc changer in the audio head unit, no sunroof) however it does have fog lights. I pointed this out politely to the owner via email, he sent me some Subaru link which only reinforced my claim. After a couple tame emails back and forth, he is still pretty insistent that it's a Premium package car. This of course is relevant, because if it's not a Premium, that chops about $1100 off the value of the car. I'm headed down to see the car and talk to the guy in person this afternoon. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to drive home the point? I suppose I can just stick firm to a price I think is fair based on what version I know the car to be. But it would be much simpler if we were negotiating with the same assumptions about the vehicle in mind.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:11
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See if you can get the VIN and run the carfax which should prove you are right and then the seller will concede or just refuse to sell to you and look for an idiot to sell to.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:27
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Cellular Suicide posted:Does anyone in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area have a preferred Subaru shop? Our 2003 Forester needs a new front right ball joint, so I went ahead and ordered both but I don't have a garage or a pickle fork and the strength to do it myself. They're not a subaru shop per se, but Metric Auto in woodbury always did my subaru right.
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Mar 24, 2013 19:54
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daslog posted:Yea or Nay on the Rear Skidplate? I'm a huge fan of the primitive skidplates - have a front and rear on my 09 STI that get good use whenever I take it off road. I've heard so many large rocks bounce off them now (and seen the dents) that I really wish I could just get aluminum plating for any vulnerable part of the underside of the car. Different topic, but any Arizona Subaru drivers should, by the way, check out crown king road where it hooks up with the I-17 near black canyon city. Best gravel/dirt around - wide enough for a semi trailer to get around in the beginning, well maintained (minimal washboard), and an absolutely beautiful drive that will take you up 8000 feet over 20 miles. Plus, there are accomodations and a nice grill/bar at the top of the mountain the road takes you to, frequented by off-roaders since there's no paved access road. Most of the trail has visibility of the road ahead as far as a mile or two, and since it isn't heavily populated (except during the times of year when there's a chili cookoff at the top of the mountain - April 20th is the next one), you can really push the car without fear for anyone's life but your own. I made a video that I'll put on youtube sometime soon - lots of nice broad turns you can slide around, and drivers out there are of the same mind (plenty of the lifted trucks I saw were at least somewhat sideways through the turns coming down). Google maps entry of where the road starts: Bumblebee Rd and I-17 BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Mar 24, 2013 |
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Mar 24, 2013 20:02
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bawfuls posted:Maybe this is more of a "negotiating for a used car" question, but here it goes. I was in a similar situation with an Integra 8 years ago. It took a carfax to drive the point home, though I didn't end up buying the car.
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Mar 24, 2013 22:55
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bawfuls posted:Does anyone have any suggestions for how to drive home the point? Show them this? http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/wrxsti2010.html#std
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Mar 24, 2013 23:23
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that link is helpful, thanks. Just got back from checking out the car, and everything looks good though there was one potential issue. The car has 32k miles and is on its third clutch. The first one apparently had to be replaced within 100 miles, which Subaru did for free. The second however was replaced at 21k. The guy had all his service records which showed among other things that Subaru picked up the labor cost on the second clutch job. That does imply they thought it wasn't just burnt out from this guy driving lovely. Should I be concerned about this car going through clutches? Maybe it's the dealer doing crappy work, in which case this new one might die early as well?
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Mar 24, 2013 23:42
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Shrapnac posted:I currently drive an '11 WRX with about 20k miles on it as a daily driver. This was my thought process yesterday: Correct decision made.
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Mar 24, 2013 23:48
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bawfuls posted:
Yes. I really doubt it's a mechanical fuckup and I have NEVER heard of a lowish km Subaru trashing clutches without some dickhead driving going on.
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Mar 25, 2013 00:25
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Cellular Suicide posted:Does anyone in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area have a preferred Subaru shop? Our 2003 Forester needs a new front right ball joint, so I went ahead and ordered both but I don't have a garage or a pickle fork and the strength to do it myself. I'm partial to RS Motors in Burnsville (and I live in the north burbs). They know what they're doing and won't rip you off. They've also recommended that I bring my own parts in the past, and I did exactly what you said above.
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Mar 25, 2013 00:33
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes. I really doubt it's a mechanical fuckup and I have NEVER heard of a lowish km Subaru trashing clutches without some dickhead driving going on.
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Mar 25, 2013 01:00
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bawfuls posted:Well if its not a mechanical gently caress up and is indeed driver error, then I shouldn't worry about it being an ongoing issue if I'm the one driving it. Maybe, but I'd question the long term health of a car that saw abuse like that. Internal wear on the trans due to bad driving/launches to motor wear/tear from related bad driving.
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Mar 25, 2013 01:37
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bawfuls posted:Well if its not a mechanical gently caress up and is indeed driver error, then I shouldn't worry about it being an ongoing issue if I'm the one driving it. This should tell you something.
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Mar 25, 2013 01:46
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My STi clutch made it through 45000 seriously abusive miles and didn't give out until I started to run an fp green hta turbo at 23 psi with methanol injection making well over 400 wheel horsepower on a pretty low reading dyno. And even then, it still sort of worked. That guy burning up those clutches frightens me. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 01:54
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I have only seen a couple of clutches get destroyed in a really short period of time and it was always some dipshit who had no idea how to drive. Sooo I would look for a different car. Even if the new clutch is fine, there could be damage to the syncros and engagement dogs that ill present itself later. Plus it could have a broken ringland or something.
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Mar 25, 2013 02:26
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bawfuls posted:Well if its not a mechanical gently caress up and is indeed driver error, then I shouldn't worry about it being an ongoing issue if I'm the one driving it. Oh hell no, you are looking at an abused car. That's not good, ever. I raced my 06 and before the oil pickup broke, it had done 122,000 kms. A lot of them very VERY hard. When the original cluch came out, it was good enough to be reused. A car with multiple cluthc changes is a mainetence timebomb
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Mar 25, 2013 02:39
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Pulled up to a four way stop today. Me in the Saabaru, and a loving WRX at every other line - one each of the squircle-lights, hawkeye, and 2008 or 2009. loving PacNW.
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Mar 25, 2013 05:29
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How the hell do you burn up a clutch in 20K miles?
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Mar 25, 2013 06:08
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Apparently some people slip the clutch from 4000rpm all the way across the intersection every time and use the clutch to hold the car on hills. A "hard launch" for me is like 2500rpm.
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Mar 25, 2013 06:18
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il serpente cosmico posted:How the hell do you burn up a clutch in 20K miles? Some people rest their left foot on the clutch instead of using the more popular dead pedal or brake pedal options and yes you read the first part of this sentence correctly.
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Mar 25, 2013 06:36
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Saerjin posted:Does anyone happen to have a good cheat sheet when it comes to ecu logging and what everything should read? Generally you want to ensure you are not knocking and the ECU is allowing full timing. Subaru has a unique knock control strategy, the Romraider forums has a very good description of how it works. If you have a Tactrix cable Learning View is a good free PC app for checking the general learned knock and fuel trim history of your car and in what RPM and load sectors the ECU is pulling timing. Bad Noodle wrote a tuning guide called subie newbie tuning guide I think, that has some good info. The more parameters you log the lower the resolution your log ends up being, you would want the bare minimum necessary for each log. You would also log different parameters for different scenarios. EG: boost tuning versus AFR or timing etc. What year model etc is your Subaru? How are you logging?
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Mar 25, 2013 07:58
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(((k))) posted:Generally you want to ensure you are not knocking and the ECU is allowing full timing. Subaru has a unique knock control strategy, the Romraider forums has a very good description of how it works. If you have a Tactrix cable Learning View is a good free PC app for checking the general learned knock and fuel trim history of your car and in what RPM and load sectors the ECU is pulling timing. Bad Noodle wrote a tuning guide called subie newbie tuning guide I think, that has some good info. The more parameters you log the lower the resolution your log ends up being, you would want the bare minimum necessary for each log. You would also log different parameters for different scenarios. EG: boost tuning versus AFR or timing etc. What year model etc is your Subaru? How are you logging? I am using a China Vag-Com cable with ecuExplorer (I do have romraider, however I can not get definitions to work - I didn't put a lot of effort into it yet though as ecuExplorer appears to be decent enough) It's a stock 99 2.5RS, only mod is gutted cat with a rear o2 spacer. Good news is from your suggestion, both knock correction and knock something else report 0. Off the top of my head I know my idle is steady 10 timing. I'll check out that thread for sure, I know absolutely nothing about logging and it's information other than what a good portion of the voltages should be. Of which was able to allow me to correct my TPS yp 4.5v.  What concerns me though is I do hear a feint pinging or clink sound, which I thought could have been knock but wouldn't that show up on the logger? It's not a very harsh sound, just a subtle dink or something.
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Mar 25, 2013 14:02
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My 02 H6 Outback Sedan doesn't want to start. It sat for a day then when I went to start it it fired briefly then stopped. It cranks seemingly fine so I think it's fuel related. I can hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key. The pump fuse is fine. I've already taken the day off from work and will look more into it once it gets light out (and warmer). Any other ideas what to check or is there an ideal line to remove to see if I have fuel at the engine? edit: checked more fuel stuff and it's all fine so I guess it's on the spark side. The battery wasn't outputting much after the cranking so I jump started it. It cranked for a long time and I tapped the gas pedal a few times then it kicked over. Maybe I need new spark plugs or maybe it's the battery itself. The H6 plugs don't look very fun to replace... AzureSkys fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 14:04
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