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I adopted my 4-year old dog Tegan just about a month ago, and just in the past week she's taken to destroying all of her stuffed toys. She had a stuffed bear and a chicken that she began tearing the stuffing out of, so she's not allowed to have those unsupervised anymore. She doesn't try to eat the stuffing or anything, and I've been sure to clip the seams off if they're coming loose so she doesn't eat them... Yesterday she was given one of those tough stuffed toys that's not made of cloth, but she started ripping that apart within 10 minutes. I even tried one of those limp toys that has no stuffing, but she decided to tear it open anyway to remove the squeakers. She's a corgi, so I understand that she's just doing what her breed does, but it's getting exasperating. She won't chew on her rubber bone or her Kong, she really prefers the stuffed toys, even if they're just hollowed-out husks of cloth. Are there any SUPER STURDY stuffed toys that I could look into, or am I better off letting her chew on old rags? I suppose "rip" is a more accurate term for what she's doing than "chew" at this point. Edit: I should also mention that she does have a designated tug toy that we play with 3-5 times a day and she doesn't have access to otherwise. The culprit in question, with one of her victims: 
Millions fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Mar 29, 2013 |
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Mar 29, 2013 16:53
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Millions posted:I adopted my 4-year old dog Tegan just about a month ago, and just in the past week she's taken to destroying all of her stuffed toys. She had a stuffed bear and a chicken that she began tearing the stuffing out of, so she's not allowed to have those unsupervised anymore. She doesn't try to eat the stuffing or anything, and I've been sure to clip the seams off if they're coming loose so she doesn't eat them... Yesterday she was given one of those tough stuffed toys that's not made of cloth, but she started ripping that apart within 10 minutes. I even tried one of those limp toys that has no stuffing, but she decided to tear it open anyway to remove the squeakers. In my experience, there really aren't any sturdy stuffed toys. Some last longer than others, but there's no magical ones that my dog doesn't rip to shreds. She loves pulling out stuffing and squeakers, but is also perfectly happy to rip apart stuffingless toys. Eh. What we do is we rotate toys and my dog only gets to play with newer toys with us (tug and fetch so she doesn't have a chance to start ripping it apart) and once a toy gets old or battered from regular play, we let her rip it apart. My dog also won't chew on rubber stuff, but she likes knuckle bones and antlers, which are good for their teeth and not too unhealthy like rawhides or stuff like that. Also stuffed kongs are good, freeze whatever you put in it to make it last longer. I would try those for chewing needs and otherwise just manage the toys to increase their longevity and keep her interested.
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Mar 29, 2013 17:01
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Kiri koli posted:My dog also won't chew on rubber stuff, but she likes knuckle bones and antlers, which are good for their teeth and not too unhealthy like rawhides or stuff like that. I thought it was recommended not to give your dog actual bones?
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Mar 29, 2013 21:36
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Generally speaking: raw, non weight bearing bones = good, cooked bones = bad.
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Mar 29, 2013 21:52
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You don't want to give dogs cooked bones because they can splinter and cause problems but raw bones are fine.
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Mar 29, 2013 21:54
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Can I get some recommendations? My knowledge of animal anatomy is poo poo.
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Mar 29, 2013 21:58
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Thwomp posted:Can I get some recommendations? Depends on dog size, but chicken necks seem to be a pretty commonly recommended here. Just make sure your source is good. Don't do grocery store meat.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:02
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Triangulum posted:You don't want to give dogs cooked bones because they can splinter and cause problems but raw bones are fine. But for those who don't want gross raw bones on their upholstery (since it is inevitable), pet stores sell bones that are treated/cooked in such a way that they won't splinter but are not disgusting and dripping with bacteria...that is, until your dog slobbers all over it. They're like $3 for a beef rib or knuckle, and have a bit of meat left on them, which is great for distracting dogs for a few hours. Plus, if you get the hollow kind, once your dog snarfs all of the marrow out you can fill them with peanut butter and freeze them just like a kong, but they're much sturdier (my boyfriend's dog just chewed the end off her Kong to get to the peanut butter).
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Mar 29, 2013 23:20
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Whether they're raw or cooked or "safe" pet store bones, you should still be careful. Dogs can and do break their own teeth chewing bones of all varieties, especially when you give big load bearing bones (like pet store marrow bones or gigantic knuckle bones) to smaller dogs. I've also seen way too many dogs with bones stuck in their esophaguses to ever feed bones without close supervision, but that should really go for any treat (or toy) that's small enough to swallow and not easily crunchable.
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Mar 30, 2013 01:47
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I go with pig hooves for Tater -- those distract him for a good while and impossible to swallow. Petsmart has them for like two bucks and Tater makes them last about a month. Makes his breath all bacony though, yikes.
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Mar 30, 2013 06:45
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I have brought home a 10 week old italian greyhound female. I also have a 5 year old male chihuahua. The chihuahua hates the new puppy. Constant stare downs, growling + snapping, shaking, and not acting at all like himself. The puppy is now 12 weeks old, so over the past 2 weeks.. nothing has changed. Any advice?
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Apr 2, 2013 16:34
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How did you go about introductions?
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Apr 2, 2013 16:57
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ridiculous dinosaur and myself added a new member to our family today. Meet Gizmo!  Adopted him from a mother of two who unfortunately couldn't afford to keep him anymore after her husband passed away.  She cried when he had to leave her, but was glad that he could have a good new home!
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Apr 7, 2013 02:34
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This puppy's face is calling to me.   So cute, but so high-energy and expensive.  (Also from CL, so its provenance probably isn't great.)
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Apr 7, 2013 05:15
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I adopted Cash on Wednesday and he's starting to develop some bad separation anxiety. He was fine until around yesterday/today. I'm wondering if me being home for the weekend is what contributed to it. I know to leave a dirty shirt and not make a big deal of coming and going plus a tasty treat, but today he's really starting to follow me from room to room. He used to just chill on the couch while I was on the computer or walking around the house, but now he's right behind me on the floor and I don't want it to become a habit and want him to gain some independence. He's driving my boyfriend crazy. He says he just sits at the door waiting for me and barks at the door. I should have my boyfriend give him a tasty treat when he calms down and is quiet right? I don't have much on his background. He was with the Humane Society for a good month and they got him from a shelter before he came there so I don't know how long he's been without human contact. cheese eats mouse fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 00:17
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My bad wrong thread!
theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 01:39
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How do you go about finding a reputable breeder? Right now I'm trying to look for a chihuahua breeder (just browsing) and realized I have no idea how to weed out the bad sites without going through them all and reading each page. Just curious if there is a good resource out there because at the moment, I am just googling 'chihuahua breeder and looking through directory lists like the AKC and breed club ones.
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Apr 8, 2013 02:04
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cheese eats mouse posted:I adopted Cash on Wednesday and he's starting to develop some bad separation anxiety. He was fine until around yesterday/today. I'm wondering if me being home for the weekend is what contributed to it. I know to leave a dirty shirt and not make a big deal of coming and going plus a tasty treat, but today he's really starting to follow me from room to room. He used to just chill on the couch while I was on the computer or walking around the house, but now he's right behind me on the floor and I don't want it to become a habit and want him to gain some independence. This could be settle-in time. You might practice coming and going. Give him a frozen Kong, then leave, wait 60 seconds, then come back in. Repeat a couple of times and try to desensitize to it. He probably hasn't picked up on your usual leaving cues yet, so I don't think there's value in working on those. Also, if it's just you leaving and your boyfriend is still around, why isn't he doing anything to keep the dog occupied? Malalol posted:How do you go about finding a reputable breeder? Right now I'm trying to look for a chihuahua breeder (just browsing) and realized I have no idea how to weed out the bad sites without going through them all and reading each page. Just curious if there is a good resource out there because at the moment, I am just googling 'chihuahua breeder and looking through directory lists like the AKC and breed club ones. That's the only way I know to find them. If you have contacts in dog sports or things like that, that can be a good resource as well. Doesn't apply to you though, it sounds like.
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Apr 8, 2013 02:26
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Malalol posted:How do you go about finding a reputable breeder? Right now I'm trying to look for a chihuahua breeder (just browsing) and realized I have no idea how to weed out the bad sites without going through them all and reading each page. Just curious if there is a good resource out there because at the moment, I am just googling 'chihuahua breeder and looking through directory lists like the AKC and breed club ones. Yeah do what you're doing and make sure they test for luxating patella. The breeder of my two Chis did do some showing and had some beautiful looking dogs, but didn't do the testing...and well it's probably hard to find Chihuahuas that don't have luxation to some degree it is still good to find a breeder that does the testing. I'm glad/lucky my two only have very mild luxations that haven't caused them any issues so far, going on 7 and 5 years old. You probably know this already, but run away if they use terms like "teacup" or "deer head" and to a lesser extent "Apple head" and beware of "gimmicky" colors like blues and merles- they are usually ugly as hell because they are bred for color and not type anyways. UltraGrey fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 03:24
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^ yep..I havent gone through any sites marketing that.. they all had warnings against that..though some looked like deerheads- would a "reputable" breeder be doing this? Because on the other end of the spectrum, theres some freaky looking domeheads. The other issue is the stereotypical 90s website that hasnt been updated for 2 years deal
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Apr 8, 2013 03:46
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Whenever I'm looking for a good breeder I just search through the OFFA breed listing and google search the most tested ones to see if they're nearby.
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Apr 8, 2013 07:18
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So not sure if this is the right thread but here goes. I have 2 pups.... A American Eskimo who turns 1 year this month and a black lab/corgi mix thats 1 1/2 years old. They are quite playful My fiance is insisting that we get a cat instead of a 3rd dog, despite how much I love dogs and want a bigger one, so we are settling on a Maine Coon cat that is 3 years old. When we are introducing the cat to the dogs we were already planning doing most of the steps outlined in the main post but curious if anyone else has any suggestions on other things to try/prepare for if they've introduced cats and dogs to each other. We are aware that we HAVE to keep the gate/separated from each other at first as the last thing I want is my dogs trying to play a little roughly with a cat adjusting to a new house/family.
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Apr 8, 2013 09:44
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MrFurious posted:This could be settle-in time. You might practice coming and going. Give him a frozen Kong, then leave, wait 60 seconds, then come back in. Repeat a couple of times and try to desensitize to it. He probably hasn't picked up on your usual leaving cues yet, so I don't think there's value in working on those. Also, if it's just you leaving and your boyfriend is still around, why isn't he doing anything to keep the dog occupied? It's more when he's sleeping. I'm up early for work, but boyfriend is up later and gets up around 12. I was just gone a few hours doing laundry this weekend and he told me what was happening with the dog with him sitting at the door crying and he started following me around the house yesterday.
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Apr 8, 2013 14:19
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Malalol posted:^ yep..I havent gone through any sites marketing that.. they all had warnings against that..though some looked like deerheads- would a "reputable" breeder be doing this? Because on the other end of the spectrum, theres some freaky looking domeheads. Well considering "deer head" is the exact opposite of the breed standard and they are strictly a companion breed it makes sense to me that most decent breeders would aim for a somewhat dome-shaped head and more blunt muzzle. And if you want a poorly bred ( I'm meaning 'not bred to standard') Chihuahua, there are usually plenty of those in rescues in shelters. Of course, there are always breeders that take things to extreme and think a dome head means protruding eyeballs and blunt muzzle means no muzzle at all. So yeah you'll still have to be on the lookout for that sort of thing to avoid. Most of the chihuahuas that do well in shows seem to be decently put together to me at least. Also don't limit yourself to a breeder that is only within driving distance, many breeders will ship through airlines...I actually had both mine shipped to me and it worked out well. Usually they will wait until the pup is a little older too, 9-11 weeks in order to ship, which is great since I wanted my dog to have plenty of time with mom and litter mates.
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Apr 8, 2013 15:31
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 One of these little potatoes will be coming home with me in 8 weeks! I'm super excited.
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Apr 9, 2013 18:13
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MrFurious posted:Good - For the record, I hate retractable leashes. When you are walking with your dog, you are training them to stay within a fixed area around you, whether that's in a loose heel at your side or in a short radius. If that distance is constantly changing, you are setting them up for failure due to inconsistent criteria. Are retractable leashes completely terrible? My back yard isn't fenced, but the long lead I got gets tangled so easily. I've been using a retractable for a few days since it gives my dog a little room to wander when it's time to pee and I'm hoping that if I use different leashes he'll be more likely to catch on that if I'm using a certain leash it's pee time and that he should stop trying to get me to take him for a walk. The longer lead is probably better if I really want to let him play in the yard, but it's a pain and I don't want to use it all the time. There's also a park area like 20 feet from my house that might be nice to give him a little more room on.
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Apr 9, 2013 20:41
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The issues with retractable leashes are: - you don't get a nice loose leash on them and the dog gets accustomed to pulling - the handle makes them ungainly and they're difficult to manage with treats, clicker, a purse, shopping bags, whatever - 15 feet safely straight out in front of you can become 15 feet out to the side and in traffic in the blink of an eye - they're difficult to retract should the situation call for it, like coming up on a dog who doesn't like other dogs in its face - your dog gets arbitrarily stopped at different distances depending on things it can't observe/predict That said, I will walk my dog on a retractable leash from time to time. I do it because she's 99% under vocal control and we're just out on a meandering walk. I attach it to a harness, on which she's allowed to pull a little bit so she doesn't grow accustomed to pulling on a collar. You could probably use one on a harness in your situation, but be careful.
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Apr 9, 2013 22:03
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a life less posted:The issues with retractable leashes are: This is more of a "My yard isn't fenced and even if it was he could climb it as soon as he felt like leaving" situation. I want control on walks, but I don't mind him moving further away from me when he's sniffing around in the yard or when he wants to run back towards the door. He's on a 4 foot leash the rest of the time and I still worry about him getting into trouble.
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Apr 10, 2013 00:05
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Dogdoo 8 posted:Are retractable leashes completely terrible? My back yard isn't fenced, but the long lead I got gets tangled so easily. I've been using a retractable for a few days since it gives my dog a little room to wander when it's time to pee and I'm hoping that if I use different leashes he'll be more likely to catch on that if I'm using a certain leash it's pee time and that he should stop trying to get me to take him for a walk. The longer lead is probably better if I really want to let him play in the yard, but it's a pain and I don't want to use it all the time. There's also a park area like 20 feet from my house that might be nice to give him a little more room on. Yeah, I hate retractable leashes for walking, but I love it for the backyard. If we didn't use a retractable for my boyfriend's dog, we'd either have to follow her around within a 6' distance or let a longer leash drag all over the ground. She can't be unleashed back there because despite it being fenced, she always makes a beeline straight for the large gaps at the bottom. I'd say it's good for large areas, but keep a shorter one for walks.
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Apr 10, 2013 00:25
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Dogdoo 8 posted:This is more of a "My yard isn't fenced and even if it was he could climb it as soon as he felt like leaving" situation. I want control on walks, but I don't mind him moving further away from me when he's sniffing around in the yard or when he wants to run back towards the door. He's on a 4 foot leash the rest of the time and I still worry about him getting into trouble. If it's just in the yard, a tie-out (or tie-out on a trolley) would work without the pulling aspect or typically the tangling potential of the nylon long lines. Then there's a clear visual cue: you aren't holding the leash so y'all aren't going for a walk.
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Apr 10, 2013 00:31
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Engineer Lenk posted:If it's just in the yard, a tie-out (or tie-out on a trolley) would work without the pulling aspect or typically the tangling potential of the nylon long lines. Then there's a clear visual cue: you aren't holding the leash so y'all aren't going for a walk. That might work if I keep an eye out. For all his smarts, my tiny genius is frequently wraps the 4 foot leash around his neck, let alone any sort of longer lead.
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Apr 10, 2013 00:46
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Can someone give some general tips on potty training our puppy? I just picked him up today and he's 9 weeks old I was told that they tend to digest food very quickly, and we should bring him to the designated poop place (at the moment either outside or a bunch of newspapers in our basement in the corner) about 10-15 minutes after he eats. Well I fed him twice today. The first time I waited 30 minutes with him outside and he didn't seem to want to go. He later went 3 hours later in one of the rooms. The second time he ate he peed almost immediately after eating. Then he squatted to poop and managed to get a small one out before I scooped him up and brought him to the newspapers where he just stared at me. Apparently he was done. Is there something I can do to 'encourage' him to do his business when hes on the newspapers? I'm going to do regular timed feedings to hopefully put his business on a schedule. Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 05:25
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I got my first dog, a Pomeranian puppy, about two weeks ago. I had been reading up on dogs for years, read the OP and the recommended materials, saved up a rainy day fund, and thought I was ready. So far in two weeks I have managed to let him pee in the house upwards of 20 times, and have watched him go from blissfully ignorant to now very fearful of other dogs due to three bad experiences (two times large dogs barking and rushing him around our apartment complex, one bad Petsmart class). I'm beyond agonized, fearing that I'm ruining this little dog. I've tightened up dramatically on the potty schedule, only allowing him out of his pen for 15-20 minutes after he has peed. When it hits the mark, he either goes back into his pen (with potty area) or back into his crate. This finally worked 100% for two whole days, and then tonight he just peed a dribble on my carpet within 2 minutes of peeing out in the grass. I feel like such a failure, and that I've ruined him now. I don't know what I need to be doing. Dunbar's method seemed so foolproof, and I'm just mucking it up over and over somehow, ugh! Additionally, even though he hasn't had more than his first shots, I understand from reading a bunch of articles that socialization at this age is important. My vet recommended the Petsmart classes, but said she would wait until he had all four sets of shots if it was her dog. Against her advice, I went ahead and took him to what I thought was a puppy kindergarden class at Petsmart, where my very young puppy could play off leash with other very young puppies and get social experience. I was wrong, and it was horrible. I thought they cleaned their floors after every class. The trainer said offhand they cleaned it once a month. And she asked us to take our puppies out into the store aisles (where tons of other dogs have been) to practice sitting. There was only one other 12 week old lab puppy there, and a 1year old dog. The lab puppy was easily four times the size of my dog, and a normal barking rowdy pup. My poor dog was absolutely terrified, so the trainer asked for his leash and DRAGGED my dog along the floor like a mop, closer to the barking puppy, out in the middle of the floor! I was so shocked and upset that I wasn't quite sure how to even react, but I told her right then that I wasn't comfortable with her dragging him, and she returned his leash. He hid under my chair and I didn't know what to do. The trainer got out a spray bottle and started spraying the other puppy every time he barked and loudly telling him NO, etc. I'm now scared that I've exposed my puppy to diseases on a dirty store floor, and hella upset that I took him there. Today he cowered under me just from hearing dogs barking faintly in the distance. Now, I desperately want my dog to have GOOD experiences with other dogs, and don't know how to do this. I don't have any friends with dogs, and don't know who to trust trainer-wise. Does anyone have experience with a real puppy kindergarden in the Dallas area? Is my dog going to die from dirty floors? Am I going to die from over thinking my lovely dog parenting?! Edit: I forgot the most important part. Hudson at 9 weeks:  Hudson at 10 weeks:  Squid fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 05:32
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One other thing with retractable leashes is that both my vet and my puppy trainer said they'd seen serious leg injuries to both dogs and humans caused by the thin super-strong cords slicing flesh open  Also, you guys might remember that I posted in here a couple of months back about how my miniature dachshund puppy Schnitzel would refuse to walk on hard surfaces, but was fine on grass. I'm happy to report that whatever issue he had with the hard surfaces seems to have been resolved, as he's now very happy walking along next to my wife and I on whatever surface we want. Although I'll miss the hilarity of him running in a wide arc around ground obstacles, it's great that we can now walk him pretty comfortably without having to continually coax him. The only time he has trouble on the leash these days is when he has to stop being the centre of attention (ie leaving behind the crowd of people who've gathered around him - this happens a lot). I don't really know exactly what solved the problem, but I'd guess it was just a combination of treat and vocal encouragement, getting a bit older, getting more used to both the leash and the strange objects outside. We're both really happy that he's grown into a friendly, happy and outgoing puppy. Even the people at the monthly Dachshund gathering we take him to commented on how he was really social and friendly for a Dachshund!
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Apr 10, 2013 08:11
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Squid posted:Now, I desperately want my dog to have GOOD experiences with other dogs, and don't know how to do this. I don't have any friends with dogs, and don't know who to trust trainer-wise. I don't know if this is Wildly Inappropriate but I'm local to you and have a puppy. I'd be happy to meet somewhere neutral and let Hudson have a chance to have some food stuffed in his face while he's in proximity to another dog his age and give him some time to get comfortable with Sage around. Sage is going to be a bit bigger than him (14 weeks, roughly 22ish lbs) but he's been played nice with smaller dogs some already. I haven't found a kindergarden that is focused on socialization, if anyone else knows of one I am all ears also. There's one I was planning to look into at the start of May but haven't given them a call to find out more yet. I'll let you know if they turn out to be what we want. I feel a little bit awkward offering suggestions for puppies. They develop so fast and I've only ever had adult dogs before Sage/the spice cabinet so I want to suggest "look at that" games, and stuffing really high value treats in his mouth when he's around other dogs, so that he learns to associate them with good things, but maybe there's something more puppy specific.
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Apr 10, 2013 09:05
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Away all Goats posted:Can someone give some general tips on potty training our puppy? I just picked him up today and he's 9 weeks old Are you serious? There is a relatively extensive house-training guide in the OP. Including don't use pee pads or newspapers except for very special situations. Squid posted:So many words Okay, let's start with the housetraining problems. If the guide isn't working for you, I'd like to know exactly what you're doing and where it's failing. If it needs tweaks, I can put those in, but I suspect this is something different. If there are truly no obvious warning signs (not cues that you're missing) before the puppy has an accident, or if he's peeing extremely frequently in small amounts, you need to get him checked for a UTI at the vet. Failing that, feel free to contact me with a complete schedule of the day for your puppy and we'll see if we can't figure out where it's broken. As far as trainers go, I just did a quick search with the links in the OP. There are at least 4 KPA graduates registered in the Dallas area. I would strongly recommend that you contact each of them. Even if some of them don't really offer regular classes or puppy classes, they're likely to be in touch with someone who is. Every KPA I've met so far has been a very strong trainer, so I feel pretty comfortable recommending them highly. In regards to your vet's words, most or all of the vets out there will say the same thing, because their responsibility is keeping your dog alive, and they are concerned about situations exactly like what you described. I would NOT recommend returning to that Petsmart for any reason, and if you're truly upset you could probably write a letter to their upper management, because that's not what they're supposed to be teaching these days. For what it's worth though, my vet gave me the same advice long ago, and I wish I had ignored it and started socializing in safe situations right away, so I still think you should seek some healthy puppy classes. If the fear continues, seek a behaviorist or a trainer with experience with that sort of issue. You can also check out some of the books listed in the OP here and in the OP of the training thread, but I wouldn't start trying to treat it on your own unless you've been doing a lot of homework. Good luck, and hang in there. MrFurious fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 14:56
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Squid posted:Is my dog going to die from dirty floors? Am I going to die from over thinking my lovely dog parenting?! Also I know I'm in the minority here with this opinion, but you can house train your puppy using newspaper. I know, because I've successfully done it three times. If you have the energy to put in the effort to follow the very good housebreaking instructions in the OP, definitely do so and your pup should learn in a snap. If you praise for going on paper, take him out frequently and throw a puppy party with treats every time he goes outside, he'll probably learn pretty quickly too. In my opinion it's more about the individual puppy (some of them seem to WANT to hold it when indoors, even when very young) and the effort you put in than the method you choose. Incidentally, this goes for most training: consistency is key, no matter what you do. Good luck and enjoy your puppy! He's only little for a short while 
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Apr 10, 2013 18:08
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Rixatrix posted:Also I know I'm in the minority here with this opinion, but you can house train your puppy using newspaper. I shouldn't speak in absolutes like that, and I agree with you that it can be done. I just see a LOT of people come in to puppy classes and they are having problems with house training because they are using pads or newspaper ineffectively. They are all laypersons who don't have a background in training and mostly just want their dog to stop peeing on the carpet.
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Apr 10, 2013 18:24
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MrFurious posted:Are you serious? There is a relatively extensive house-training guide in the OP. Including don't use pee pads or newspapers except for very special situations. Sorry, I word searched for "potty" training instead of house training. Didn't see anything about why newspaper are bad either. My friend has his dogs use newspapers without much trouble. What IS the right method for using newspaper? Also I thought the 3 hours between feeding and reliving himself was really strange, as every other time its been much shorter time inbetween. Training for pee seems to be harder of the two...He gets access to water at all times meaning his pee is kind of unpredictable. edit: VVV I was told puppies should ALWAYS have access to water but now I think about it I guess that doesn't make much sense. If you can keep food from them, why not water too, right? Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 21:19
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| # ? May 14, 2024 21:54 |
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Away all Goats posted:Training for pee seems to be harder of the two...He gets access to water at all times meaning his pee is kind of unpredictable. Easy solution: restrict/control access to water until he is potty trained?
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Apr 11, 2013 02:21
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