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DJ Commie posted:Its really a good idea to fit disk brakes and a vacuum brake booster, drums are hokey at best with barely any modulation, are completely ineffective when overheated, and have terrible heat rejection so they get hot and stay hot. Pretty much this. I had a '72 Nova with non-power drums on all corners and it was quite the experience. Sadly, I got rid of it before I could swap in some discs as I was but a lowly poor high-school student.
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Mar 1, 2013 19:36
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It's definitely something I'm planning to do, luckily with XCs the master cylinder and the brake booster are the same for cars with rear drums or rear discs. The only thing that I would need to modify is how the handbrake cable connects. Finding a rear axle with discs on it is usually an expensive search, I can use ones from XB-XF without too much trouble but because everyone that's restoring one of these cars wants one people don't like to give them away cheap. My front discs are going pretty well for now though, I don't think they've locked up on me yet.
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Mar 2, 2013 03:15
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Ansith posted:It's definitely something I'm planning to do, luckily with XCs the master cylinder and the brake booster are the same for cars with rear drums or rear discs. The only thing that I would need to modify is how the handbrake cable connects. Finding a rear axle with discs on it is usually an expensive search, I can use ones from XB-XF without too much trouble but because everyone that's restoring one of these cars wants one people don't like to give them away cheap.
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Mar 2, 2013 12:46
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Wreckers never have a shortage of XFs, anything before that is a bit hard to find now. The wrecker closest to me that wants crazy prices for everything has a lot of XA-XC that have just been sitting rusted out, one XD, one XE and probably about 20 XFs. Still, gently caress that place. Got a quick video for a friend a little while ago of how the exhaust sounds (he is obsessed with XBs, mainly because of Mad Max. He doesn't mind the XC though because of how similar they are). Bad phone recorder and I had it sitting too close so it doesn't sound too nice when I rev it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAhTxDZpqGE You can hear the holley sucking the air in when I go around to the front, I'm still surprised at how loud it is.
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Mar 4, 2013 15:35
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Since the XC uses the leaf spring setup for the rear end on the SWB sedans, the XF wagon should be compatible for the XC since it also runs leafs. The Fairmont Ghia wagon also has a standard LSD! Also for some miscellaneous parts, Rare Spares are now doing Falcon models from XK to XF (sorry if I have already said that)
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Mar 4, 2013 23:09
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That sounds like it'll be the perfect setup then, once i can afford it I'll see if I can grab one. I think you might have mentioned rare spares doing more parts now, I haven't seen anything new added but I'm keeping an eye on their site. Got some work done yesterday, someone gave me two Fairmont grilles and a spare set of headlights for free, I'm lucky because these things aren't easy to find in the condition these ones are in. I put one in, a GXL one which came painted black. The old grille  The right side headlight, it's not secure (shakes around while I'm driving), sticks out on the top and faces down to the ground. Has some holes in the chrome surround as well.  The right side mounting point, the left one is a bit better but still cracked  The new grille and spares  Everything out, didn't find any rust but the wiring was twisted and taped up for some reason - not sure why it was cut up in the first place.  The new one in   I'm really happy with how it looks, the black goes better with the green. Bonus shot of the chrome trim along the edge of the bootlid with fresh paint, the old stuff was almost all gone. 
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Mar 10, 2013 05:46
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I've been focusing on getting the cooling system fixed recently, I wasn't happy with how much water I was losing each day. I figured it would be a problem with the radiator because it's close to needing a replacement. For a while I've been able to hear air escaping from under the radiator cap when the thing starts to pressurise. I got a new cap because the previous new one I bought had gone pretty lovely, I got the filler hole cleaned up so the cap would actually seal and it worked out well. No more hissing after I turn the car off. I was surprised to find the next day that I'd lost 2L of water out of the radiator. The tank was holding the pressure properly now so I went hunting for leaks. A quick check around the bottom of the head and I found where the water is leaking from, I assume it only got worse when the radiator started holding the pressure properly. The worst spots I found were at the back and the front of the head. I'm not entirely sure what to do now, I do know that I'm feeling pretty good about my purchase of a full gasket kit and spare engine though. I'm pretty close to broke, just paid the rego on both cars. The idea is probably going to be pull the head off the spare, do something with it so it doesn't decide to do the same thing and then stick it on. This should also fix my problems with oil burning when I start the car up. This car will never stop causing me problems.
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Mar 25, 2013 13:36
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Ansith posted:
You have no idea.
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Mar 25, 2013 21:36
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General_Failure posted:You have no idea. I really don't. Things just keep adding up and I haven't even touched some of the rust in the panels that I wanted to fix ages ago. I've been going over what to do next with a few people. Here's the plan so far: Get the head off the spare engine, hopefully it looks okay on the inside, it definitely looks a lot better on the outside. Get it reconditioned, I might be able to do this on the cheap, someone has offered to speak to a guy he knows at a place that will do it who is looking for a barra head, this guy has a spare and he said he'd offer it up to get my spare head reconditioned, I have no idea what this will end up costing me or how good the end result will be but I figure in the end it's better than just lapping the valves and changing the seals. Put it all back together after that. Just to be sure though, I've been told due to how lovely my whole cooling system looks I should at least get a new water pump, thermostat, and get the radiator fixed (That or try and find some mounts for the crossflow radiator from a friend's 302 Fairlane that I was offered, not an easy thing to find though). I don't want the car to start overheating again and possibly damage a reconditioned head so I don't really have a problem with doing all of this. The end result will hopefully be no more coolant leaks, no more burning oil, and no more overheating while idling in traffic. I'm sure I'll have learnt a lot by the end of it too, taking off the intake manifold is as far as I've gone into pulling an engine apart.
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Mar 26, 2013 15:07
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I wish you luck! Fords will drag their sorry carcasses around for years with next to no maintenance, but if you try maintaining them they will eat you alive and spit out the broke and despondent husk. Parts are an addiction for them and once they have a taste their craving becomes immense. I hope you get it sorted for your sake. Looks like you are making progress at least.
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Mar 26, 2013 23:35
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Thanks, you're definitely right, I could have just left the engine bay alone after doing the steering and suspension and it would have been fine for a few years (probably not, it was leaking a lot of fluids early on). I'm taking the head off the spare engine tomorrow and hopefully fitting a new water pump and thermostat (pretty sure there's no thermostat in there at this point, the coolant starts flowing as soon as I start the car up), I think flushing the radiator a few times just to get the crap out is on the to-do list until I can find something else to put in. I'm thinking of going for the crossflow radiator rather than fixing mine up, just needs new mounts and the radiator support needs to be cut (the crossflow radiator is a fair bit bigger), it'll result in better cooling so why not. I'll make sure to get some pictures this time, I really need to stop being lazy about it, I'm sure it'd make this thread a lot more interesting because I'm sure you're all sick of me just listing the things that broke every couple of weeks.
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Mar 29, 2013 15:06
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Got the head off the spare engine today and did the cooling system today. My first time pulling off a rocker cover, the oil in the head must have been in there for 10 years too long, it didn't smell very nice at all. Also cast iron heads are heavy as gently caress, you definitely need two people to lift them.   In the end it all looked pretty decent and I didn't run into any trouble. After that I went over to another friend's place to sort out the water pump and thermostat. There's the nice orange colour to the insides. We ran water through it for a while until the water stopped coming out orange. We found that the thermostat was stuck open and was allowing water to flow all the time.  Here's the old water pump, it's interesting to see the difference between the old ones and the newer ones.   Surprisingly the old gasket came off pretty easily and the old thermostat housing was in great condition apart from the vacuum tree on the top which wouldn't come out and then we had troubles getting it to screw back down into place again.   The result? The engine stays cooler for longer and when it does get hot from sitting in traffic for too long it cools down a lot faster when the car starts moving. Once the problem with the head is fixed and a new radiator goes in hopefully that won't be a problem any more. The noise from the old water pump rattling around is gone now too, so all you can hear is the Holley sucking air. Looks like I'm going to be working on the head tomorrow, since the spare head looks to be in decent condition I'll just be replacing the seals and lapping the valves. Saves me from paying $700ish reconditioning the head, I'll probably throw the money I save into fixing the rear drums.
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Mar 30, 2013 14:18
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Sounds like you're making some good progress! The old water pump looked very, very tired. Good luck with the head reconditioning!
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Mar 31, 2013 02:07
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That pile of pushrods and rockers scares me - at least in SBC-land, you're supposed to keep track of which went where so that it can be returned to the exact valve it came off of 
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Mar 31, 2013 06:14
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I'm not sure why we decided against doing that, as I was pulling them out my friend mentioned that if we were being smart we'd keep track of them. At that point in the day the plan was to get the head reconditioned so I don't think it would have mattered too much but now that I'm just cleaning it up and lapping the valves it might have been a good idea to keep them all separate and numbered. I'm sure you'll at least be happy to know we numbered each valve so they'll be going back in the same spots. As you probably gathered, I started on the head today. It's all clean and now I'm just starting on lapping the valves, no cracks or any other damage but there was a lot of poo poo in the intake and the exhaust valves are a little bit burnt and lapping them isn't going as good as we'd hoped. The intake valves came out really nicely though so it's not all bad. I took a couple more pictures but I'll upload them tomorrow together with the shots of the finished product.
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Mar 31, 2013 09:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:That pile of pushrods and rockers scares me - at least in SBC-land, you're supposed to keep track of which went where so that it can be returned to the exact valve it came off of I didn't want to say anything. But in archaic boxerland it's the same too. Although I have mixed them up and after that it was just whatever. Dyslexic brained me. So no loose seats or anything? I forget do these even have seats or is it just a part of the head? Good luck and I hope your Ford appreciates the work you are putting into it.
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Mar 31, 2013 12:30
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Now I feel like I've done something really bad. I hope it'll work out with them all mixed up. The seats are part of the head (I think they are at least, I could be wrong but it did seem like they were part of it) but if you get a cast iron head reconditioned they'll set it up for unleaded and throw some inserts in to harden it up. I'm not really sure how it works but that's what I was told when I asked. Oh and I forgot to mention, the valve guides were perfect which was the main thing my friend was worried about when I told him I was just going with the cheaper option. Ansith fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Mar 31, 2013 |
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Mar 31, 2013 12:45
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Ansith posted:Now I feel like I've done something really bad. I hope it'll work out with them all mixed up. They bore out around the ports in the chambers on the head and if they are worth a drat, heat / freeze fit nice hard seats made out of something I forget the name of. Good stuff though. Hard as.
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Mar 31, 2013 13:51
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Finished working on the head on Monday, in the end it went okay but it really wasn't the best head to do this with. As you can tell from the last picture of the head there was a good layer of old oil and a lot of old gasket left on there. It ended up cleaning up pretty nicely, same story with the intake and exhaust ports, no damage.  It started raining shortly after we got done with that, the rain helped blend the colour of the bonnet with the colour of the front guards so I decided to take a picture. Oh and I repainted the front badge and put it back on the grille which you can see here. You can also see how badly I hosed up the bonnet's height by trying to get it to sit down properly.  We broke the valve removal tool taking out the valves, the tool got welded up (3 times, the welds really didn't want to hold) and we continued. Here's #6, and below that #1 (I think), #1 had been lapped and #6 hadn't. #1 was probably the best of all the exhaust valve seats, most of the other looked like #6 does in the picture even after being lapped.   After they all got done we wrapped it up and threw it in the boot where it's sitting right now. Hopefully it'll be going in this weekend. In preparation for that I also grabbed the spare rocker cover and gave it a quick clean.  I wasn't happy with it (oil was hiding a few paint chips so I thought it was better than it was) and I found some old sandpaper so I started sanding.  Ended up burning my fingers doing it so I stopped, bought some paint stripper and a wire brush to finish it off. I'll have that done tomorrow and hopefully get some paint on it, the only orange I could find was Chevy orange, it looks pretty close.
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Apr 4, 2013 15:21
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I got the rocker cover done today, I learnt a valuable lesson while doing it, paint stripper loving hurts if you get it on your skin. I woke up to a call from a place I had an interview at a couple of days ago telling me that I wasn't selected so I got straight into stripping the paint at 9am (I really wanted to sleep in but couldn't get back to sleep after being woken up). Took me a couple of hours to get it all with breaks in between when I got sick of the paint stripper flying off onto my arms and legs while I was wire brushing. End result was this:  I forgot to buy primer and didn't want to make a second trip so I just went ahead with the colour. Turned out better than I expected.  I can't wait to see it in the engine bay.
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Apr 5, 2013 09:07
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Ansith posted:I got the rocker cover done today, I learnt a valuable lesson while doing it, paint stripper loving hurts if you get it on your skin. Yeah, paint stripper will give you a nasty chemical burn. Wear pants and long sleeves with rubber gloves. Only way to go. That paint may look good now, but it may not stick well without primer. It might be fine, but don't be surprised. The rocker covers on my Olds look like poo poo right now because I didn't primer the aluminum before painting with wrinkle-finish, and it's flaking off the aluminum.
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Apr 5, 2013 21:13
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Darchangel posted:Yeah, paint stripper will give you a nasty chemical burn. Wear pants and long sleeves with rubber gloves. Only way to go. I was recommended the paint that I used and was told I didn't need primer, I did check and it's supposed to fine without primer. Hopefully it works out. Anyway, big update time! The magic sparkling oil that you find after you take off a rocker cover that hasn't been opened up for 35 years.  With the head off we found the problem with the head gasket.  Doesn't look too nice in there.  You could almost eat off it.  There we go, water leaking through a break in the gasket into cylinder #6.  The water leaking through kept it pretty clean.  That's better, cast iron heads aren't fun to get back on because you need two people to do it.  Mostly back together with the freshly painted rocker cover on, really does look a lot better.  Worked from about 2:30pm to 7pm on it and surprisingly apart from me screwing up installing the thermostat it went smoothly. The only real trouble was after we got it all back together and started we could hear a loose tappet ticking, I wasn't sure what it was because it was a problem before the swap but the sound would disappear after the engine got hot. After the swap it got a lot louder and doesn't seem to go away once the engine is hot. Other than that there's a noticeable increase in power and it does sound a lot smoother (apart from the ticking). Really happy with how it went.
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Apr 7, 2013 13:23
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What paint colour is that valve cover? It looks really nice.
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Apr 7, 2013 16:22
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What's the oil pressure like? I think the tappets on those motors are adjusted by oil pressure and if the motor is either running low on oil or pressure it will get noisy.
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Apr 7, 2013 23:45
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Well things have been apart. And unless I'm confused about engines I think the pushrods got mixed up. It's possible a lifter isn't inflating properly. Have you done an oil / ATF mix for a bit to try to free up any sticky lifters? You don't need two people to change an iron head. You just need to be prepared to sound like you're going super saiyan and be ready for the almost inevitable overbalance and faceplant into the rocker gear.
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Apr 8, 2013 00:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What paint colour is that valve cover? It looks really nice. Chevy orange, the brand is VHT. I think it's an American brand so I doubt it would be too hard to find. You Am I posted:What's the oil pressure like? I think the tappets on those motors are adjusted by oil pressure and if the motor is either running low on oil or pressure it will get noisy. My oil gauge on the dash is dead (also there's an XF oil sender in there right now because the correct one I bought broke) so I'm not entirely sure. It's possible that the oil pressure is low but while we were messing around with the oil senders we made sure it was giving us a good number, as for the oil level it's pretty close to full, I put some extra in after the head swap (and left the oil at my friend's place) but it still needs a little more. I probably should have just done an oil change after the swap. General_Failure posted:Well things have been apart. And unless I'm confused about engines I think the pushrods got mixed up. It's possible a lifter isn't inflating properly. Have you done an oil / ATF mix for a bit to try to free up any sticky lifters? This time around I did put everything back in the correct order, though they were all from the old head so maybe that's the trouble. I've been told to run some fresh oil through it and if that doesn't help to try some product that is supposed to help, can't remember the name of it. I'll see where new oil gets me. We pulled the head out while it was still decently hot, I was smart and held onto it with a rag and my friend went without and burnt his hand. One thing I couldn't imagine doing is getting the iron head on by myself while trying to line up the head gasket, once the head sits on it, it'll just slide around everywhere.
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Apr 8, 2013 07:15
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New oil + filter and some additive that should clean it out (and hopefully get rid of the ticking) today. I'm sure I'll have more to report on that in a few days. I might have to pull the rocker cover off and double check the rockers to make sure they're all tightened down enough. I really hope the problem is an easy fix because I really don't want to pull the head off again. Lesson learnt, do poo poo properly and don't rush it. Took a picture of the bay with everything back together today out in the sun. Really happy with the orange, has a decent shine to it. 
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Apr 9, 2013 11:54
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You might have some problem with some of the hydraulic lifters if you have heaps of ticking. Yes, you should have replaced them all when you had the head off. Yes, you need to take the head off again to replace them.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:50
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I've let a couple of people have a look and listen to how it's running and they're not too concerned with the ticking, but what's going on now will involve pulling the head off (and going even further) anyway so it looks like it's going to be fixed some time soon. After I was told the ticking wasn't going to be a problem I thought I was out of trouble but of course not. It's burning a lot more oil than it was before now, mostly under moderate acceleration (and by that I mean anything more than a slight push of the pedal). I pulled the plugs today, #2 had a decent amount of oil on it and #3 had a little as well. Here's the plugs that I pulled,  I've been told it's most likely going to be the rings causing the problem and that it's time to start saving some money. I might throw new bits where they're needed into the spare (I predict this will mean everything), stick the head on that and put it in.
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Apr 21, 2013 13:36
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IF it's burning oil now and wasn't before, and the only thing you've changed is the head, I'd be suspicious of the valve guides myself.
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Apr 21, 2013 15:20
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It's possible, in all honesty I haven't looked into it at all yet, it's all been me talking with a friend over forum PMs. The guides were a concern before we took the head off the spare engine but once we checked them they were pretty good. It did turn out that the spare head had been reconditioned at some point (makes sense with how good it looked). Also, it was burning oil before but it wasn't as bad and I think that turned out to be oil leaking through the gasket into the cylinders. I think my friend's reasoning for it being the rings is the increased compression from the new head just tipped it over the edge of loving up.
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Apr 21, 2013 16:17
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Pretty happy right now. While I was driving home from work today I noticed something - an absence of smoke trailing me as I accelerated. I made a few attempts to get it to start doing it again but nothing, not even flooring it while going up a hill was giving me any smoke (it would always struggle with this too). Along with this I noticed past the point where it would start smoking before it's giving me a lot more power now. Obviously at this point I realised that those old plugs were the problem and that smoke I was seeing was most likely unburnt fuel. It was stupid of me to think that was burning oil because of the pace it was consuming it wasn't exactly lining up to how much smoke it was making. I'm learning slowly! Those few minutes of the drive home today was a bit of a surprise for me, everyone tells me how lovely the 250 is and not having anything else to compare it to I sort of came to the conclusion that it was just meant to perform that badly. It really isn't that bad at all now that the thing is working, I'll assume that the plugs went bad from having the blown headgasket for 6 months and then transferring those plugs over into the new head didn't help.
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Apr 22, 2013 07:43
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The good times didn't last long. Decided to see if my friend had a vacuum gauge and a compression gauge. He had both so I went by his place yesterday to have a look at both. Pulled the plugs and found this:  1 and 3 look good, 2 had oil around it and 4, 5, and 6 have gone black from burning oil. 5 being the worst. The plugs are getting clogged up with oil and aren't creating a good spark and that's why it's not burning fuel. This makes sense because the smoke has been slowly returning over the past week since I put the new plugs in. The compression test didn't give great results either. We only did a dry test as we're pretty sure it's the rings at this point. #1 155 #2 105 #3 100 #4 90 #5 75 #6 140 1 is right on what I'd want, 6 is okay but everything else isn't looking great. Here's what we had written down for the vacuum as well, which is close to perfect. That might be the only good news from those tests. Neutral 19.5/steady In gear 15.5/slight roll +/- 0.5 What I'm looking at doing now is rebuilding the bottom end of the spare engine, putting the head I redid onto it and going with that. I have no idea how much this'll cost me yet.
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Apr 27, 2013 16:56
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Ansith posted:The good times didn't last long. Perhaps someone else can chip in on this but I'm genuinely surprised your vacuum readings are steady with such a compression variance. It's only a band-aid solution but if you want to keep running the car for a while before you do the work go up a heat range or two on the spark plugs. That'll help keep the poo poo burned off them.
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May 15, 2013 12:55
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My friend suggested the same to me but he just said I shouldn't bother since it seems to be running okay. I may as well go ahead and do it though because it's only getting worse, one question I do have though is should I do all the plugs or just the 3 that are the problem? I haven't been able to do much recently because I got around to selling my Camry to a friend, scored myself $1800 and he'll be helping pay for the things needed for a roadworthy. It's still sitting at my place but because it's not really mine any more I don't want to have to rely on it if I manage to break the XC, so I've just decided not to do things to it for now. I did retorque the head bolts about a week ago, I discovered right away why not to use a gasket kit from (most likely) the 80s. The rocker cover gasket was completely dried out and just fell apart as soon as it got pulled out. I also found out that retorquing head bolts is one of the most un-fun things you can do. Backing off the bolts and then torquing them in one slow and even movement? Might be okay unless you're reaching over into the middle of an engine bay made for a V8. I think I might have done two of the bolts in one movement, all the others I had to stop and reposition the wrench. The painful part of it all wasn't even retorquing the head, because the old rocker cover gasket was long gone I got myself a new one. The alarm bells started ringing when it was listed as a gasket for a 4 cylinder 4.0L Falcon, typos happen I thought, it's no big deal and it looked okay. Trying to fit it was a pain in the rear end, none of the tabs fit in the holes of the rocker cover and the gasket itself was a tiny bit too big which caused it to squash itself out of place. Once it was on and everything started (fixed my choke and idle mixture as well since it was running rich) I took it home and then continued on driving it the next day (which was my birthday as well, what a great time it was to find some bad news on the garage floor) until I found a decent patch of oil sitting under the car. The gasket hadn't sealed on the exhaust manifold side and I'd lost just under a litre of oil. I had to pull the rocker cover off twice to try and fix it, the second time got it pretty good, I can only see a couple of spots where it's leaking and it's only a small dribble every 50km. I'm really sorry if my stories are completely boring, I really wish I had more interesting things to post but the car is way too reliable, even with compression problems, oil leaks, burning oil, and spark plug problems it still runs fine. If it just decided to give up I'd be able to hurry along the rebuild. Side note, I finished my job at KFC today because I've been offered a real job that pays much better. I'm already certain all the extra money will be put into making the XC a comfortable daily.
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May 16, 2013 09:34
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Before you go ripping engines apart, redo your compression test and get an oil pot and put a squirt of oil down each plug hole and repeat the test again. A massive spike in compression pressure tells you the rings are worn and aren't sealing, but no change is a valve not sealing properly issue.
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May 16, 2013 15:19
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A wet test probably would have been a good idea but at this point I'm positive it's the rings. Even if the rings weren't causing the loss in compression I'd still need to pull the engine apart because that's the reason the oil is burning. If I actually had the gauge to do the test myself I would but it's my friends. It's something I'll have to buy, I'll have a look this weekend for one.
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May 16, 2013 16:52
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Do stores down there not lend them out like they do in the US? Seriously, do a wet test, the last thing you want to do is rebuild the bottom end and throw the head on to find that you still have problems.
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May 16, 2013 17:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do stores down there not lend them out like they do in the US? No. They don't. Considering the diagnostic tools are usually a lot more expensive it's a huge pain in the rear end. My compression gauge really stung, and my vacuum gauge was an old U.S. one I bought online. Hell, I even saved myself the best part of $100 recently by buying a timing strobe from the U.K. It's a racket. A wet test should help a lot. The lack of variance in the vacuum gauge is a little troubling to me though. However taking a bit of a step back it points towards rings. Valve issues make a vac gauge go wild. As for the plug temperatures, no idea but I'd be inclined to keep the set the same. You are brave enough to take on an Aussie Ford and keep coming back for more. You have my respect. Watch it though. I know I said earlier but give them a chance and they'll bleed you dry.
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May 16, 2013 23:40
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 08:27 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do stores down there not lend them out like they do in the US?
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May 16, 2013 23:41
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