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Yakattak posted:It won't "void" it. They'll just deny the warranty claim if something goes wrong that could have been caused by it. Which being the ECU could be anything. The dealer can apparently see if the original map was changed but this is highly disputed. It's also disputed if it can even be used to prove anything. I think it is just a checksum difference but I could be wrong. 92 octane could be weird because AFAIK Cobb only has 91 and 93 octane maps for the off the shelf options. You'll notice a nice difference on stage 1 though. From what I have gathered, if they check your ECU, it will looks as if you have unhooked your battery when you flash/reflash. There is definitely a lot of conflicting information. I really want to get one for my '13 STi, but I am a worrywart and figure that if I flash the ECU, I'll get hit full in the face with the ringland issue the next day. The WRX doesn't suffer from the same condition, I hear, so you may be better off. What I do know is that a wet fart has to work better as a tune than what SOA saddled the STi with stock. Edit: Congratulations on the new car. I hope you get as big of a smile driving it as I do driving mine. 
War Bunny fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 04:00
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nm posted:No one waves in socal I live in SoCal and that is definitely not true. Especially in places like Big Bear.
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Apr 2, 2013 04:02
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AlexanderCarrillo posted:I live in SoCal and that is definitely not true. Especially in places like Big Bear. Maybe no one waves at stock looking subaru wagons (even GTs).
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Apr 2, 2013 05:44
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War Bunny posted:Accessport, ringlands Just buy one. They are sweet. One life to live. As a realistic mitigation, DD the car in S mode with the AccessPORT flash, it's 14.5 psi target. I think the people that blow their motors on stage 1 are in S# pounding it all day. ----- Extra-S is awesome and I am just here to say it makes as much of a difference as people have said. I was expecting to barely notice a difference in my 18k mile STi, but I did the tranny and rear diff with it Saturday and the difference is really nice. Smoother, feels way better, much quieter under engine braking (esp. 2nd gear), and the car just feels more lively with a transmission that wants to work. I haven't pushed it so I don't know how the diffs feel yet. Also at only 18 k miles, I had plenty of shavings on the magnets and the rear diff fluid was blacker than the blackest black, times infinity.
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Apr 2, 2013 14:31
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Am I safe to run 225/40/18 Yokohama s.drives on 18x8 +48 Rota Gravels? I'm terrible with this stuff. Also anyone used the s.drives? I've heard good things.
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Apr 2, 2013 15:27
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Just buy one. They are sweet. One life to live. As a realistic mitigation, DD the car in S mode with the AccessPORT flash, it's 14.5 psi target. I think the people that blow their motors on stage 1 are in S# pounding it all day. One life to live, and my wife would put an end to it if we had to pay out of pocket for a new motor.  . I did decide to splurge on changing my fluids over to Motul now that the break in period is over. Thanks for posting about your oil. Some people say its a waste, but I've always been one to change fluids out early and often for that very reason.
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Apr 2, 2013 20:13
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nm posted:No one waves in socal I got waves or headlight flashes all the time in my STI. Evo too. Can't wait til other Bricklin owners throw the peace sign on the streets.
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Apr 2, 2013 22:43
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, like I said, I'm probably just being overly paranoid. I'm at this point where I have to decide if I want to start putting more money into the '02 to keep it on the road (rust fixing, new tires, some suspension work) and I have this voice saying "you do this and 500 miles later the engine will blow!" My 02 spun a rod bearing after making ticking noises (though I can't hear if its similar, probably not as I can't hear it). I spun the rod bearing at a lapping day though. I wasn't down on oil that day, but I may have been before/before I got the car. It was a reason to put in a ej207 though, so now I have more power/more worries about funny noises because I know how much it costs to fix it.
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Apr 2, 2013 23:23
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What's the deal with subframe bushings - are inserts more than enough or is it worth it to pony up for the full replacement on a daily driven, sometimes tracked/auto-x'ed 3G WRX; also, am I correct in assuming whiteline has the current best offering or should I look at another brand? From what I've seen, the full replacement bushings are a giant pain in the rear end to work with, but I have access to a full shop with press, if needed.
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Apr 3, 2013 00:05
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Yeah completely replacing them is a pretty involved process. Whole rear x-member and suspension and diff has to come out and then you've got to figure out a way to get it into a press to get the old bushings out. It is worthwhile to replace/stiffen bushings in the rear end though because there are so many of them. four pretty soft mounts for the x-member, and then 6 more bushings per side that are all moving around when you load the suspension. So I would just go with the inserts. Whiteline and Kartboy make them but the whitelines have things in them that stick out and fill the voids while the KBs are just plain discs that fit between the x-member bushings and chassis. Also the 08-10) had softer bushings with more voids. What other suspension parts do you have on the car?
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Apr 3, 2013 00:23
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RCE yellows on Koni sport inserts, 25/22 Perrin sways with Kartboy endlinks What else can you recommend to take away from the handling slop? I've already got a pitchstop, group n tranny mount(don't really mind the NVH), and whiteline's posi shift kit ear-marked away for when I pull the trigger, so I figure I might as well handle all of this in one go. I'll be sure to hit you up with a parts list to see what you carry, after I finish moving and decide to go bushing crazy. McSpatula fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 00:58
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So I bought this http://www.safedrives.com/proddetail.asp?prod=APSRRC And two of these http://www.safedrives.com/proddetail.asp?prod=HA%2F741 And also some 50mm version of these.. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j...365033641754858 Oil money means I can finally live out my dream this year. I'm building a goddamn rally car out of my rolled 2002 Impreza Wagon, motherfuckers!
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Apr 3, 2013 01:02
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I really gotta ask - do Whiteline USA have anywhere near the number of bushing failures Australia seems to get? Noting another 3-4 ALK faliures in the last couple of weeks. Whiteline is becoming a poison name with the regular failures esp of ALK's
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Apr 3, 2013 01:09
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No. I have only seen it happen once ever and they guy had a new one from WL within a week.
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Apr 3, 2013 02:22
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So I started my project thread for the $600 Legacy I picked up over the weekend. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3541811 Getting some "holy shits" already. Come have a look!
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Apr 3, 2013 06:18
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MrZig posted:So I bought this Congrats. Charles from safe drives is awesome to work with. Did you get the JVABs used or from the JVAB guy? Also, Have fun with that cage kit, I've read that the fitment is poo poo from the main hoop forward.
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Apr 3, 2013 13:18
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I put in an order for a new set of 50mm's from John (the JVAB guy). The cage doesn't have to be perfect. I plan on writing this car off anyway! Cheap is the name of the game here. My next build will probably have a proper custom cage. And yeah Charles was awesome to deal with. He says he runs the Autopower cage in his car and it works good, so we'll see. I'm full on stoked about it though. I should be able to compete in October at Pacific Forest Rally!
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Apr 3, 2013 13:36
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MrZig posted:And yeah Charles was awesome to deal with. He says he runs the Autopower cage in his car and it works good, so we'll see. Has he crashed extensively with it? I wouldn't think there would be a way to determine "works good" without basically crushing the gently caress out of the car (see Evo crash from Pikes Peak).
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Apr 3, 2013 15:13
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I'm getting a cam grind from Deltacam for my RS. Do I want the 1000, 1500, or 2000 grind? I rallycross the car and daily drive it a bit.
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Apr 3, 2013 18:55
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McSpatula posted:RCE yellows on Koni sport inserts, 25/22 Perrin sways with Kartboy endlinks Now that you've done the struts, springs, and bars it's going to come down to bushings mostly. The ALK up front is a big one because the stock rear control arm bushing is very soft and tends to fall apart. Steering rack doesn't make as much of a difference as it did on the older cars but there is still a little bit of play there. So if it was me I would start with the ALK and rear subframe bushing inserts, the outer rear LCA bushings because they are fairly easy, and then gradually start replacing other bushings in the rear end. The biggest pain in the rear end are the upper a-arm bushings just because the bolts are so hard to get to.
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Apr 3, 2013 19:03
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daslog posted:I'm getting a cam grind from Deltacam for my RS. Just be aware that if you're running the stock ECU it will periodically throw misfire codes with more aggressive cams. And while you're in there you might as well do valve springs and stuff. I have direct experience with (stage III twin-cam, mind) TechWorks cams http://www.techworkseng.com/Products/Subaru_Engine_Cams.htm and springs - I was super-happy with them in my DD, with the caveat that I had to clear a misfire code every few weeks.
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Apr 3, 2013 19:58
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MrZig posted:I put in an order for a new set of 50mm's from John (the JVAB guy). John makes a great product, I just don't have the time or budget to go that route, maybe next year. As for the cage, it is a perfectly fine cage that will pass logbook when installed correctly, I have just read about a lot of fitment issues main hoop forward. If you have the talent to get it in and welded up and work around any issues, awesome. I knew I didn't have that talent, so I outsourced it. Those OMP seats are surprisingly comfortable. I got the brackets for them and welded the brackets in car.
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Apr 3, 2013 20:59
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Sockington posted:
And in that case, the cage was a heap of poo poo and it was luck the co-driver wasnt killed. Anyone who knew poo poo about rollcages would have seen that one coming. There are ways actually. Pro cage designers usually have pretty good modelling tools to "test" a cage and get a feel where crash energy is being directed, so before the cage goes in the car a designer can have a pretty good idea what'll do in the event of the worst happening The FIA does test designs to destruction for certification too, so you get a pretty good idea what actually works and what doesnt. If a cage design is FIA certififed, it'll work. It'll then come down to how well it's fabricated and there's non destructive ways to test that. But I think SiF is more talking about the chassis stiffening effects in this case.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:07
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Cat Terrist posted:But I think SiF is more talking about the chassis stiffening effects in this case. I'm just saying I've seen people say fitment sucks b pillar forward. It will pass logbook when you get it installed and let you go racing. As for how good it is keeping the non squishy things away from your squishy parts. I dont know I just press the loud pedal and pray I dont die.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:18
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Cat Terrist posted:And in that case, the cage was a heap of poo poo and it was luck the co-driver wasnt killed. Anyone who knew poo poo about rollcages would have seen that one coming. Yea, because no one on that professional race team had ever even seen a roll cage before before they slapped that one together. Didn't they plummet off a cliff and survive? Sounds to me like it worked pretty well, but who am I to argue with a roll cage expert who has intimate knowledge of the cage in that exact car? OH WAIT. Seriously, of all the dumbass know it all Internet pricks I have observed, you are the worst.
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Apr 3, 2013 21:38
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:
Haha, oh lord.  I'm pretty sure cage design is something CT knows well. I know I haven't spent a small fortune on rallying for the past xx years. IIRC, we talked about that crash in detail in another thread and there were some points that could have been reinforced. Also the passenger had a shittier seat than the driver. Sockington fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Apr 3, 2013 |
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Apr 3, 2013 21:40
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Yea, because no one on that professional race team had ever even seen a roll cage before before they slapped that one together. I feel like I'm missing something. Are we getting some cross thread shouting matches?
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Apr 3, 2013 22:03
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Yea, because no one on that professional race team had ever even seen a roll cage before before they slapped that one together. I'm not the only person voicing that opinion - and moreover they are better at the rollcage game than either of us, so go get all Internet Yelly at someone else.
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Apr 3, 2013 23:54
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Slow is Fast posted:John makes a great product, I just don't have the time or budget to go that route, maybe next year. I've heard the JVAB stuff is good. MAN he talks a lot too, like I heard it was bad but jesus he likes his own voice. Very entertaining guy to talk to though, for sure. I ordered seat brackets as well and I'm pretty stoked on the whole thing. Can't wait to build it all up.
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Apr 4, 2013 00:03
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MrZig posted:I've heard the JVAB stuff is good. MAN he talks a lot too, like I heard it was bad but jesus he likes his own voice. Very entertaining guy to talk to though, for sure. YUP. I didn't have time for that poo poo. I wanted to put my credit card into a web page and get a thing, none of this call a guy and talk about stuff kinda deal. I'm building up STi struts this year and I'll deal with him over the winter. I've already done most of my car build, so don't be afraid to ask me anything if you run into stuff.
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Apr 4, 2013 00:12
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Slow is Fast posted:YUP. Its funny because half the poo poo he talks about isn't even about cars at all. Also, he promotes fun RWD cars more so than Subarus. Calls them unreliable haha. Do you have any kind of blog/build page of your car? I'd like to see it all condensed. As far as advice - I'll probably ask questions here and there. I have a few rally buddies in town that have been doing it for years so I have a lot of knowledge to draw on. Plus my crew has serviced for a rally team before and they know their Subarus.
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Apr 4, 2013 00:16
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MrZig posted:Its funny because half the poo poo he talks about isn't even about cars at all. Also, he promotes fun RWD cars more so than Subarus. Calls them unreliable haha. While they're not "unreliable," per se, I do think it is similar to owning an Alfa Romeo. There's a "knack" you have to develop with the car if you're going to own multiple Subarus and not simply be rich and take them to the shop whenever something goes wrong. It's not as...extensive... as the one you'd need to develop to own an Alfa, but similar.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:14
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MrZig posted:Its funny because half the poo poo he talks about isn't even about cars at all. Also, he promotes fun RWD cars more so than Subarus. Calls them unreliable haha. Yes, I have a build thread on here + fb.com/sifmotorsports Just smash the space bar until you see blue car related stuff, although my legacy work is kinda relevant because it deals with rust, bad ej25s, and broken dreams.
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Apr 4, 2013 01:37
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So I bought this thing I'd like to put am more aggressive tire on it for back road/dirt road/two track shenanigans, and ideally to just have to worry about one set of tires on the car all year round. I was hoping for something like an All Terrain T/A. I'm not worried about pretty rims or road noise, just tires rubbing. I don't want to get hornswoggled by some douche at a tire shop, so I put it to you Subaru gentle persons, how do I address this problem?
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Apr 4, 2013 23:30
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Dirty Impreza seems to love the General Grabber AT2, so that might be an option.
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Apr 4, 2013 23:31
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the 225/60-17 size is loving killing me. That's why I am wondering about rims.
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Apr 4, 2013 23:38
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Yep, AT2s and/or a snow tire. Can you downsize rim to 16? Did you get rid of the STi?
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Apr 4, 2013 23:40
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When I die, I plan to be fired into the sun in my STi. I thought about getting a smaller rim and hopefully filling the gap with sweet sweet all terrain rubber, lol they are going to look like worse balloons than I have on there now. I'll start looking at the 16s. I am a little worried about the car becoming terribly wobbly, or messing up the speedo readings. edit: Tire Rack only wants to sell me 17s or 18s. edit Mk II: Ok, I am going to have to get out and pound the pavement on this one, I will put this very helpful information to good use. Thanks guys! burtonos fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 4, 2013 23:47
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burtonos posted:
Try building a winter tire package, more often than not they will give a downsize open.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:01
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Or just shop by size. You can get an older set of oe 16" alloys for dirt cheap on nasioc.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:13
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