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I apologize if this has been covered, but how do people feel about using plastic organizers as cages for tiny snakes? I mean these: I've only ever seen one person use them (he had a ton of small animals and used them for all of them to save space). I don't see how it's that much different then a cage, but I can't find anything about them. But if they were set up exactly like a normal container, would it be fine? I'm not planning on getting a snake (as much as I would love to have one, I already have my rats to take care of) but I'm really curious.
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Mar 30, 2013 19:03
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Look up "rack systems" and "snake racks". You'll find it's really common and a great way to save space if you have a lot of snakes and can be used with heating tape. I've noticed they're better at holding humidity too.
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Mar 30, 2013 19:42
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The bulb in my beardie's heat lamp broke yesterday morning, and unfortunately the part of the bulb where it says the wattage was rubbed off, and I couldn't remember what I'd used last time, so I got 60W bulbs and 100W bulbs. The trouble is I had to leave to go home about an hour after replacing the bulb and I didn't have time to try them both and check the temperatures. In the end I decided to put the 100W bulb in, since I thought it would be worse if he was too cold and unable to digest his food. I did measure the temperatures when I left and they were spot on, but I don't know if it would have heated up more or not. I heard today from my friend who is looking after him that he's spending all his time in his hide so it's probably too hot for him, but I don't want to ask her to change the bulbs in case it's then too cold and he won't be able to digest properly. I could ask her to change the bulbs and measure temperature and all of that stuff but it could get complicated/time consuming and I did tell her all she'd have to do was feed him on Sunday and change out his greens, so I don't want to start asking her to do all of that as well. My boyfriend will be back on Monday, would my beardie be okay in a too-hot vivarium until then or should I ring up my friend?
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Mar 30, 2013 20:54
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Ghost Party posted:I apologize if this has been covered, but how do people feel about using plastic organizers as cages for tiny snakes? I mean these: Those are too flimsy. I would not trust one of those to hold snakes. You're looking for something more like the rack systems for sale here: http://www.animalplastics.com/
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Mar 30, 2013 21:13
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minema posted:The bulb in my beardie's heat lamp broke yesterday morning, and unfortunately the part of the bulb where it says the wattage was rubbed off, and I couldn't remember what I'd used last time, so I got 60W bulbs and 100W bulbs. The trouble is I had to leave to go home about an hour after replacing the bulb and I didn't have time to try them both and check the temperatures. In the end I decided to put the 100W bulb in, since I thought it would be worse if he was too cold and unable to digest his food. I did measure the temperatures when I left and they were spot on, but I don't know if it would have heated up more or not. I heard today from my friend who is looking after him that he's spending all his time in his hide so it's probably too hot for him, but I don't want to ask her to change the bulbs in case it's then too cold and he won't be able to digest properly. I could ask her to change the bulbs and measure temperature and all of that stuff but it could get complicated/time consuming and I did tell her all she'd have to do was feed him on Sunday and change out his greens, so I don't want to start asking her to do all of that as well. My boyfriend will be back on Monday, would my beardie be okay in a too-hot vivarium until then or should I ring up my friend? I'd error on the side of too cool if it's only for a few days. a couple cool days won't kill it, but a few days way too hot might.
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Mar 30, 2013 21:14
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Big Centipede posted:I'd error on the side of too cool if it's only for a few days. a couple cool days won't kill it, but a few days way too hot might. Ahhh okay. I was worried about him not digesting properly if it's too cool, is that not a concern if it's only for a few days?
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Mar 30, 2013 22:21
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I ended up getting a hold of my crested late last night and he was actually very chill once I got him, as I should have expected I guess since he was really easy to handle in the store, I was just being paranoid I think because I didn't want to get him too stressed out since he is just now adjusting. I didn't hold him long or anything because the room I have him in is a bit messy right now and I'd hate for him to get underneath my recliner or something and climb inside it, however unlikely that is, so I'll probably gecko proof the room a bit today just in case he does somehow get away from me. Unfortunately the Dracaena he likes to sleep in is not doing so well so I may have to take it out, hopefully he can find a spot he likes in one of the Pothos I have for him if it comes down to that. He also has a new spot on his bamboo he likes to perch on at night but unfortunately he keeps pooping from it, directly over his food. I was planning on picking up a just a couple crickets today to see if he likes them, if I just grab a couple of them to see if he eats them at all do I need to worry about doing the dusting/gut loading just this once or should it be fine? he eats CGD every night now pretty regularly, even right in front of me.
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Mar 30, 2013 22:35
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My cresteds like wax worms better as a treat, they go nuts for them and its a good way to fatten them up a little. And seconded on the flimsiness of the plastic tubs - the problem is that even small snakes will have the muscle power to bow that plastic out enough to slither free, all it takes is a centimeter or two. I've seem some people have luck zip tying screen over the top of each drawer but it makes everything a huge pain in the rear end.
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Mar 30, 2013 23:40
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I've always seen the racks done in such a way that the top is basically covered by the shelving itself and all the holes were drilled into the sides of the container instead.
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Mar 31, 2013 00:36
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When I fed Nyx (the new leopard gecko) today, live crickets off of tongs, after the second one she kept opening her mouth really really wide and doing this serpentine thing with her body. I've never seen any of my three leos over the years do this. Is this normal? Just working that cricket down? Or something I should be worried about? 
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Mar 31, 2013 02:08
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Trilineatus posted:My cresteds like wax worms better as a treat, they go nuts for them and its a good way to fatten them up a little. Wax worms are super fatty and should be used really sparingly though from what I've read. So yeah, treat is a great word for them but I dunno. My cresteds never got on the worm train. Give'em dubia or crickets and they'll slam them like nobody's business. They just step on worms (and then stand there completely oblivious).
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Mar 31, 2013 02:22
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Bruc posted:I was planning on picking up a just a couple crickets today to see if he likes them, if I just grab a couple of them to see if he eats them at all do I need to worry about doing the dusting/gut loading just this once or should it be fine? he eats CGD every night now pretty regularly, even right in front of me. Not dusting crickets once won't hurt him. Dr. Clockwork posted:When I fed Nyx (the new leopard gecko) today, live crickets off of tongs, after the second one she kept opening her mouth really really wide and doing this serpentine thing with her body. I've never seen any of my three leos over the years do this. Is this normal? Just working that cricket down? Or something I should be worried about? Yeah she's just working stuff down her gullet. My AFT tend to do that if chomp down roaches too fast.
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Mar 31, 2013 02:33
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Who here was breeding chahouas?
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Mar 31, 2013 04:02
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Greycious posted:Not dusting crickets once won't hurt him. Good to hear, I'll pick a few up Monday and see how he likes them. The past few days he has been eating like a madman, I usually give him about a quarter teaspoon of CGD mixed with a half teaspoon of water and he has some left when I go to refill it 2 days later but the last couple days he has eaten it all each night. I'm still not 100% sure it's a he mind you but based on pictures I have seen it looks likely, I'll have to get a pic next time he's hanging out on the glass and have you experts check it out. Now if only he would stop pooping in his food, I've been fortunate enough to be around both times he's done it and switch it out before he has a chance to potentially eat it but I can't imagine that would be good for him if I wasn't around. On a side note I appreciate all the help you guys have given me in this, I know it's an easy animal to care for but I am a big worrier when it comes to stuff like this and you've all been very helpful.
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Mar 31, 2013 07:45
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Bruc posted:Good to hear, I'll pick a few up Monday and see how he likes them. The past few days he has been eating like a madman, I usually give him about a quarter teaspoon of CGD mixed with a half teaspoon of water and he has some left when I go to refill it 2 days later but the last couple days he has eaten it all each night. I'm still not 100% sure it's a he mind you but based on pictures I have seen it looks likely, I'll have to get a pic next time he's hanging out on the glass and have you experts check it out. Now if only he would stop pooping in his food, I've been fortunate enough to be around both times he's done it and switch it out before he has a chance to potentially eat it but I can't imagine that would be good for him if I wasn't around. No problem. Cresties are a great species to keep, and you'll enjoy watching yours grow. Try moving its food dish out from under any perches and it won't poop in the food as often.
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Mar 31, 2013 07:54
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My friend has changed the bulb for my beardie so hopefully he'll be okay now. Just in case, what are some signs of dehydration I should ask her to look out for? Apparently he is out of his hide today and doesn't have a black beard at all so I guess those are good signs? Edit: Apparently he just ate a massive load of crickets as well. 
minema fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Mar 31, 2013 |
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Mar 31, 2013 12:59
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 What an odd place to sleep...(the flash woke her up because I'm dumb). We moved Nyx into her own tank yesterday because of territorial/feeding problems in the big tank. She seems to be settling in okay, but we found her like this this morning. Sound asleep, up in the air on the cool side of the tank. The temp on the warm side is only 80. I'm hoping that she settles into her new hides now that she isn't competing with Freya, but she still likes to hang out in the open most of the time.
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Mar 31, 2013 13:46
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Big Centipede posted:Who here was breeding chahouas? I have a PI pair but they've only laid a single egg so far.  I know someone else here breeds them though...I believe it is nesbit
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Mar 31, 2013 14:52
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Here's our bearded dragon, Rex, in my gf's hand when we got him last June: Here he is now at 17" long:  I had lizards when I was a kid (anoles, and water dragons). Taking care of Rex has been so easy in comparison. It's really amazing how fast he grew. He's also very agreeable to handling and likes to hang out on my shoulder or chest while I watch TV. SinistralRifleman fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 04:55
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 Is this a bullfrog? And what do I do with it? So I "Rescued" some tadpoles from a feeder tank because they can't get sold so they die in there and well..I really dont know what to do with the frogs. I think the other one I have is a southern leopard frog. No interest from other people in them really, maybe I can offer them up as food for snakes? But would be bad if they had parasites in em.
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Apr 1, 2013 06:12
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Does anyone here have any experience identifying septicemia in yellow bellies? He's gone a bit pink in between the plates on his plastron but I'm getting a poo poo ton of conflicting info online as to if that's something that just happens to lighter shelled turtles, which I don't buy, and early signs of blood poisoning. Either way, we're off to an exotic vet tomorrow to get him checked out, but it's closed for the bank holiday today and bricks are being shat here. Edit: Just to be clear I'm not asking anyone to take the place of a vet or anything, I'm just worried about the little guy. Shoehead fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 1, 2013 |
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Apr 1, 2013 17:14
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My toad finally broke his hunger strike with a big fat juicy superworm. Thanks for the reassurances!
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Apr 2, 2013 17:04
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The vet was super nice and gave them the all clear, we're still keeping an eye on them though. I also should be getting a new dock on thursday for one of them, so it's all good here. 
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Apr 2, 2013 19:39
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Hey guys, I decided to get a beardie. He's baby and I got everything all set up and ready for when he arrives. Except, one thing. Do I have to feed him crickets? Is there any way I can feed him something else, or will I be stuck buying a lot of crickets forever? I hate those little fuckers.
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Apr 3, 2013 00:13
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cubivore posted:Hey guys, I decided to get a beardie. He's baby and I got everything all set up and ready for when he arrives. Except, one thing. When he's a baby, possibly. But feeder roaches are a lot cleaner and healthier for them! Also as he grows he will need more veges and less protein, so depends on how big your baby is.
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Apr 3, 2013 01:03
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So I'm using some steralite containers to hold a few of my snakes that need higher humidity and heat lamps just do not mix well with humidity. I started making holes in the first one with a drill, but the drill died halfway through. I'm now going infomercial black and white and poking holes with an ice pick yelling THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY. Is there a better way, or am I doomed until we get a new drill?
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Apr 3, 2013 14:08
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Wood burning tools work. I just prefer a drill so I can cackle madly and make vrrumvruum noises with it.
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Apr 3, 2013 14:26
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Pew! Pew! posted:So I'm using some steralite containers to hold a few of my snakes that need higher humidity and heat lamps just do not mix well with humidity. I started making holes in the first one with a drill, but the drill died halfway through. I'm now going infomercial black and white and poking holes with an ice pick yelling THERE HAS TO BE A BETTER WAY. A cork screw or a pen knife maybe? Or should the holes be much bigger?
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Apr 3, 2013 15:28
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Corkscrew might work, but a penknife I think would be too big. I think the holes I have currently from the drill are an eighth of an inch, the ice pick is slightly smaller so I have to make more holes with it. I'm basically trying to make them small enough so that if something the size of a baby corn snake were in there it wouldn't be able to push its head through (it's a ball python right now that's going in there but I might be using those later on for different snakes). e: Apparently my ex-roommate took some of my wood burning tools, what a pain. 
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Apr 3, 2013 15:36
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You can just heat up the ice pick or heat the tip of a lovely screwdriver and use that to poke holes.
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Apr 3, 2013 18:39
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So I bought a dumerils boa at a show probably...six months ago, maybe 7 or 8. The guy said the baby had fed and shed and I believed him. I know dums have a high rate of going off food. I have kept his tank in the proper conditions and I don't even handle him because he won't eat. I have offered him a food item once a week every week since I got him to try and get him to eat. I tried F/T, live, pinkie mice, pinkie rats, fuzzy mice, fuzzy rats, anything I could try. I asked for advice a month or so ago and was told to try chicks or african furred mice but neither of those items are available anywhere in my area (even though it was Easter, I expected to find chicks). Anyways, I did any and every combination of things to get him to eat. I was okay with him not eating because he was still moving around and drinking. The last three weeks however he has really started to show signs of starvation. He is limp and barely moves, his scales are all wrinkly like he has too many for his body, and I just really started freaking out. The vet suggested to force feed him since there is nothing virally or bacterially wrong with him. I was always told that force feeding is a LAST RESORT. FInally last night I was heart broken that I might lose him and decided to force feed a tiny pinkie mouse. He is so weak he didn't put up much of a fight and once I got the head and shoulders into his mouth he finally decided to swallow on his own. I put him back in his cage and covered it because I know it was stressful. Any advice on what's next? I know he is very weak and I want him to get healthy but I also don't want to kill him with stress. Should I try to offer prey to him in a few days and hope he eats on his own? Do I try to force feed another time if he doesn't? Is there a good chance this is too little too late? Any help would be much appreciated. I try to tell him to live up to his name, Hannibal, and start eating poo poo but he doesn't want to obey. (Pic was taken a couple of months ago so this is not what he looks like now...this was when he still had some sort of bulk on him. 
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Apr 3, 2013 19:24
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Sweet CupnCakes posted:So I bought a dumerils boa at a show probably...six months ago, maybe 7 or 8. The guy said the baby had fed and shed and I believed him. I know dums have a high rate of going off food. I have kept his tank in the proper conditions and I don't even handle him because he won't eat. I have offered him a food item once a week every week since I got him to try and get him to eat. I tried F/T, live, pinkie mice, pinkie rats, fuzzy mice, fuzzy rats, anything I could try. I asked for advice a month or so ago and was told to try chicks or african furred mice but neither of those items are available anywhere in my area (even though it was Easter, I expected to find chicks). Anyways, I did any and every combination of things to get him to eat. I was okay with him not eating because he was still moving around and drinking. The last three weeks however he has really started to show signs of starvation. He is limp and barely moves, his scales are all wrinkly like he has too many for his body, and I just really started freaking out. The vet suggested to force feed him since there is nothing virally or bacterially wrong with him. I was always told that force feeding is a LAST RESORT. FInally last night I was heart broken that I might lose him and decided to force feed a tiny pinkie mouse. He is so weak he didn't put up much of a fight and once I got the head and shoulders into his mouth he finally decided to swallow on his own. I put him back in his cage and covered it because I know it was stressful. I didn't notice this earlier... What is its setup like? Dums like to burrow into the substrate and ambush their prey. Give it enough substrate, let it burrow down and put a PK rat in front of it and leave the room. If it doesn't eat that, try it with a live rat fuzzy or hopper (just do what you can to keep an eye on things without disturbing anything).
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Apr 5, 2013 05:13
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Here's my newest little guys Correlophus sarasinorum  
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Apr 5, 2013 05:18
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Cowslips Warren posted:When he's a baby, possibly. But feeder roaches are a lot cleaner and healthier for them! Also as he grows he will need more veges and less protein, so depends on how big your baby is. Its literally a case of the older they are, the less they can be arsed chasing down insects and the more appealing stationary vegetables are. My beardies around a year old and its JUST starting to eat veggies, but still smashes crickets whenever i give em to it.
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Apr 5, 2013 14:59
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Update on my boyfriend's turtles that I had no idea needed UVB until this thread: they are doing well! Although they're undersized, I've given them a huge plastic tank (easier to clean than the glass one, at least I think so and way bigger) and a bunch of room and basking spots. They tend to crowd under the UVB, but I don't blame them for that. I'm hoping to make some ramps so I can make the water deeper as well, right now there's not a lot of "diving" room. Seem to be doing okay otherwise. 
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Apr 5, 2013 17:09
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So my friend has a male Red Eared Slider. She is wondering if it would be a bad thing to have Malaysian Trumpet Snails in the tank as a clean up crew. Would the turtle try to eat them and become impacted or something?
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Apr 5, 2013 23:22
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I need some turtle help. My uncle was in a car accident and is in the hospital, and my family is watching his box turtle until he recovers. The thing is, the accident was about a week and a half ago, and we are just now getting the turtle, meaning that during that time its water/cage hadn't been cleaned and it hadn't been given fresh food. I noticed an open sore on its neck, but it isn't bleeding or infected. Otherwise, he seems perfectly healthy; his eyes are clear and he's moving around fine and ate the lettuce I gave him. My question is, do we need to take him to the vet or will the wound heal by itself once he's properly taken care of? (Note: I know nothing about turtles.) Edit: Among the various turtle supplies my father brought back from my uncle's place were several flat rocks, some with rather sharp edges. My mother thinks that he cut himself on one of these. Action Yak fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 01:45
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Ferremit posted:Its literally a case of the older they are, the less they can be arsed chasing down insects and the more appealing stationary vegetables are. Ugh, lucky. Mine is an rear end in a top hat who refuses to eat more than a bite or 2 of his veggies. I have to sit there and wiggle it around like it's alive before he even decides that maaaybe he'd might like a bite. Adults need more veggies than protein so it's stressful!
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Apr 6, 2013 16:12
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Action Yak Police posted:I need some turtle help. Some human antibiotic ointments are okay to use on reptiles, this stuff was recommended for light abrasions/cuts by the vet I used to take my reptiles to for care at PetSmart(the one Banfield vet I've ever felt comfortable with, actually, the guy had a whole room of various reptiles at home that were in fantastic shape), and if you can get ahold of it silvadene cream is so safe you can even use it on eyeballs if necessary. Silvadene cream is awesome, it's very gentle and safe to use on most anything but does a number on everything microbial.
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Apr 6, 2013 19:29
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Kilersquirrel posted:Some human antibiotic ointments are okay to use on reptiles, this stuff was recommended for light abrasions/cuts by the vet I used to take my reptiles to for care at PetSmart(the one Banfield vet I've ever felt comfortable with, actually, the guy had a whole room of various reptiles at home that were in fantastic shape), and if you can get ahold of it silvadene cream is so safe you can even use it on eyeballs if necessary. Awesome, thank you! I'll definitely pick some of that up. Big Centipede posted:If the wound appears to be healing, I'd leave it alone. Edit: I'm pretty certain it was those sharp-rear end rocks. My uncle probably just grabbed whatever was in his backyard. I'll replace them with less deadly stone as soon as I possibly can. Action Yak fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 22:21
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