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TaurusOxford posted:Maybe, but those are just straight up action figures. I was under the impression he wanted to put some work into actually assembling a kit. Who wants just an action figure? I'm seriously upset I only found out about these things now at 25. I would have LOVED these kits when I was 13 instead of building snap together model cars. It puts me into a weird zen state just having 10 part trees in front of me while marathonning a TV series on Netflix
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Apr 5, 2013 00:53
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Any tips for drybrushing with acrylics? Washes with them aren't a problem, but they dry so fast that drybrushing might give me problems.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:54
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I have a confession to make. For my first plastic models like 13 years ago when I tried out Warhammer I didn't have any sprue cutters and didn't know any better so I twisted the parts off the sprue. I'm so sorry.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:54
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ACanofPepsi posted:Who wants just an action figure? The people who are fans of robots that don't have model kits. See: Turn A fans. EDIT: On that note, how was the MG Turn A? If I ever get around to building a MG, I'd definitely like to start with the good old White Mustache.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:56
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muike posted:Any tips for drybrushing with acrylics? Washes with them aren't a problem, but they dry so fast that drybrushing might give me problems. I've never had an issue with drybrushing Tamiya acrylics, but you could try a thinner with a retardant (the Tamiya acrylic and lacquer thinners have this) or just find an acrylic retardant on its own. You need to remember that when drybrushing you want very little paint on your brush and you are pretty much just rubbing the nearly dry paint on the parts as is. Less is definitely more with drybrushing so you kind of want very little to transfer each pass of the brush.
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Apr 5, 2013 01:18
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BlitzBlast posted:The people who are fans of robots that don't have model kits. See: Turn A fans. It's a great kit. You can't go wrong, especially if you are able to appreciate the MS design.
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Apr 5, 2013 01:27
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Eh, I'm okay with having to properly build the thing, I just wasn't expecting it because I didn't really do gently caress-all research into gunpla before getting the kit from Fauxtool. I'm probably going to give it another go once I get more money that I can drop on stuff like sprue cutters and cement but for now it's just gonna sit on the AC unit in my dorm room.
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Apr 5, 2013 02:12
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Faltion posted:I've never had an issue with drybrushing Tamiya acrylics, but you could try a thinner with a retardant (the Tamiya acrylic and lacquer thinners have this) or just find an acrylic retardant on its own. Thanks, I've got Tamiya paint and I've never done drybrushing before so I figured I'd ask. And it's good to hear the Turn A is good because I'm a huge fan of the series and design. Maybe I'll pick it up at some point. I've been thinking about grabbing that, the Stein, Revil Rezel, and Jesta. The Jesta having a really dumb looking gun is probably going to save me those 30 bucks though.
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Apr 5, 2013 03:12
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http://tendoutoys.blogspot.ca/2013/04/g-creation-x-robot-kid-sd-genesic.html So who wants a third party SD Genesic GaoGaiGar?  Picture of an OOB build with comparison to D-Style GaoGaiGar
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Apr 5, 2013 04:13
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Man, you guys are really out to make him feel bad - this was his first try. 
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Apr 5, 2013 04:46
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My first tries were back when Gundam Wing was still airing and I still remember how much it hurt to pop parts off the runner. Then, like the primates in the beginning of 2001 thrust before the monolith, I grasped a tool, nail clippers. Now I'm really picky about my dumb plastic scissors.
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Apr 5, 2013 04:49
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So I'm picking up a couple brush pens for panel lining later this weekend so I can actually start assembling my Turn A kit. Opinion poll: which looks better on white, gray or neutral brown? I don't want black because most of the black panel lining I've seen looks tacky and cheap.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:33
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Fairly light gray, I'd say. Brown is more for reds and oranges in my opinion.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:37
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TaurusOxford posted:http://tendoutoys.blogspot.ca/2013/04/g-creation-x-robot-kid-sd-genesic.html If they ever, somehow, made a decent genesic gaogaigar model kit that wasn't a 400 dollar resin kit, I think I would die a happy man.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:43
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 I like how this picture turned out. I heard back from the contest people today and they just checked my email address against the one in their database and asked where to ship the prize. http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN924923 I`m pretty sure that`s what I won. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 05:42
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Congrats. With that giant rear end katana, that looks like it'll be fun to mess around with. In other, more obvious news, holy christ these things drain your wallet. I made a quick wishlist of MGs I'd like to pick up after Turn A, and the total cost is over $600. 
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Apr 6, 2013 05:46
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Want to give us a list? We can probably give you some recommendations for priority kits. 
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Apr 6, 2013 05:48
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Most of it's just UC protagonist suits (RX-79 2.0, Zeta 2.0, FA ZZ [not the mass produced one], Nu v.Ka, FA Unicorn, V-Dash v.Ka) because I am a boring person. My current plan is to buy them in chronological order, but I think it'll be a while before I can build up my spare change to the point I can safely start. If there's a MG that's perfect for beginners though, I might start with that. Lord knows I'll need all the practice I can get.
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Apr 6, 2013 06:02
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I assume you mean RX-78 2.0. That would probably be the best suit to start off with. Just to warn you, MG ZZ Gundam is a straight up brick due to its bulk. FA ZZ is going to be impossible to pose more than this: 
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Apr 6, 2013 06:08
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My buddy has the Sentinel FAZZ, and yeah, it's a brick, and aside from that, it's probably aged pretty poorly.
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Apr 6, 2013 06:10
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TaurusOxford posted:I assume you mean RX-78 2.0. That would probably be the best suit to start off with. Whoops, yeah. And if that's the case, I probably should get that before Turn A then. Hah, RX-78 was my first HG, and now it's going to be my first MG. quote:Just to warn you, MG ZZ Gundam is a straight up brick due to its bulk. FA ZZ is going to be impossible to pose more than this: Looking at the pictures on dalong, I can take off the FA parts to just have the Enhanced ZZ. I'm hoping that'll be more flexible. And worst comes to worst, I'm already used to having fragile pieces of junk that can't be posed well from the RG Zeta. 
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Apr 6, 2013 06:27
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Which sucks because the FAZZ is one of the best looking bricks to come out of UC.  I hope the MP version gets a kit of its own in the HG line at some point but I doubt it.
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Apr 6, 2013 06:28
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Can anyone recommend some good kits that use no or minimal polycaps? Doesn't have to be Bandai.
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Apr 7, 2013 00:42
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muike posted:Can anyone recommend some good kits that use no or minimal polycaps? Doesn't have to be Bandai. Master Grade Turn A Gundam.
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Apr 7, 2013 00:56
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Yet another reason to keep that at the top of my list.
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Apr 7, 2013 01:08
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I finally finished my MG Tallgeese; I thought it was going to be a quick build as I usually don't do much more than snap the kit together, but it needed more painting and monkeying around with than I had expected. The underside of a lot of the armor pieces are exposed and ugly (mainly the elbows, knees, and shield), so I painted those to match the inner frame. I filed down the faceplate a bit to make the eyes look more like a visor than the sunglasses look it had before, and sprayed Plastidip on the waist and inner shoulder ball joints to tighten them up and give them more friction since they don't hold the weight of their respective components with much confidence. I also cut down the middle waist armor piece a bit, since it blocked almost all of the upper waist joint's movement. Overall though I'm happy with the kit, there are a lot of clever bits of engineering and detail that are hard to appreciate by just looking at pictures on the internet. Here's the inner frame, I like how the thruster pods and shield have a frame as well:  
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Apr 7, 2013 01:27
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ACanofPepsi posted:
You said in an earlier post you won the MG Red Frame revised edition which is this one and it's amazing. It doesn't have the rifle and shield, but it does have two swords and the ridiculous backpack. That Tallgeese looks great. I've got a list a mile long too, but haven't had time or energy to build anything recently. Summer's coming up so hopefully I can get to work on Sinanju's frilly bits.
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Apr 7, 2013 02:21
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Looks really great! Somehow I forgot the Tallgeese is also a member[0] of the dongthruster club. [0] tee hee
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Apr 7, 2013 02:34
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Xy Hapu posted:I finally finished my MG Tallgeese; Are all those little red icons decals, or do they come printed on the plastic? If so, are they those water decals? I'm scared to try applying them. Great job, they all seem perfectly on-axis, which is why I ask if they come pre-printed on the plastic.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:33
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ACanofPepsi posted:Are all those little red icons decals, or do they come printed on the plastic? If so, are they those water decals? I'm scared to try applying them. Great job, they all seem perfectly on-axis, which is why I ask if they come pre-printed on the plastic. Those are waterslide decals, and why are you scared to apply them? It's hard to gently caress them up, and the manuals almost always come with a page showing you where every decal goes on the suit.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:36
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Thanks! The ones on the Tallgeese are actually a combination of dry transfers and stickers. They're a bit less forgiving than waterslides, which you can easily reposition, but it's not too bad. For the stickers I pick them up on the tip of a utility knife and apply them starting at some kind of reference point (if there's an edge I want the sticker to be parallel with, I start applying the sticker there and work my way down the rest of the sticker, making adjustments as necessary), then if it looks good I press the sticker onto the plastic with my finger or my dry transfer tool to make it 'permanent'. For the dry transfers I cut out the section I want to transfer and tape it into position, then rub it on with a dry transfer tool, making sure not to press too hard since that could push everything out of position. For both types, I paint a thin layer of semi-gloss clear paint on top to protect them, and I apply them before assembling the parts so the rest of the kit isn't in the way as I'm trying to jockey them into place.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:56
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EthanSteele posted:You said in an earlier post you won the MG Red Frame revised edition which is this one and it's amazing. It doesn't have the rifle and shield, but it does have two swords and the ridiculous backpack. You're correct this is the one I am getting. It's also worth quite a bit more money which I hope means a more complicated build. TaurusOxford posted:Those are waterslide decals, and why are you scared to apply them? It's hard to gently caress them up, and the manuals almost always come with a page showing you where every decal goes on the suit. I tried applying waterslide decals to an Eva model I built and it was just a shitshow front to back. I had it on the arm where I wanted it, then accidentally bumped it with a finger and ripped half the decal. They seem to be made out of cellulose or something, because it both ripped and folded in on itself almost like gold leaf. Anyways the model was from like 1996 and just sitting around a comic book shop so it might be a bad example, but it made me nervous to try it on other models because the decal I hosed up was the only one of it's kind on the decal sheet and it ripped so easily.
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Apr 9, 2013 02:00
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EDIT: Turns out HobbyWave is even better, so forget I ever posted anything.
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 03:48
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ACanofPepsi posted:You're correct this is the one I am getting. It's also worth quite a bit more money which I hope means a more complicated build. I got it on the recommendation of this thread and it was a real blast to build and I'm seriously considering getting the Blue Frame too.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:41
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Nice work on the Tallgeese! Didn't realize there is a Leo head in there could mean a MG Leo can't be far off.
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Apr 10, 2013 05:39
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Morgenthau posted:Nice work on the Tallgeese! It also helps that a lot of the Tallgeese plates are callec "Leo Frame".
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Apr 10, 2013 05:42
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With the Tallgeese being basically a fancy Leo, it would certainly seem smart on Bandai's part to make one especially since quite a few Wing fans seem to want one. In a similar vein with the MG Jesta coming out soon I am hoping that means we're going to see more Gundam UC grunt MGs in the future. Knowing Bandai we'll potentially see a MG Jesta Cannon. It's odd to me that we've got 3 versions of the ReZel, but no MG Geara Zulu, when the Geara Zulu could be retooled into its many variants as well and I know people are clamoring for a Rozen Zulu MG. Considering Gundam UC Episode 6 had only 1 new mobile suit (The Jesta Cannon) and Episode 7 potentially having none (my speculation) aside from Full Frontal's new mobile armor (which probably will be too large for a model kit), I'm sure they're going to have to start making some of the kits they've only made as HGs since it'll be a while before the Origin comes out or whatever series is next. If The Origin is produced and they start putting out The Origin versions of all the original 0079 kits am I alone in not really being interesting in slightly different-looking versions of what we've already got? I'm still holding out for a Ver ka Sazabi this year.
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Apr 10, 2013 06:35
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Faltion posted:If The Origin is produced and they start putting out The Origin versions of all the original 0079 kits am I alone in not really being interesting in slightly different-looking versions of what we've already got? What, don't you want another RX-78-2?
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Apr 10, 2013 07:26
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BlitzBlast posted:What, don't you want another RX-78-2? Don't you mean RX-78-02? In all seriousness though, I already got one of the rarer 1/100 RX-78-2 models so I would have no motivation to pick up the same kit with an optional shoulder cannon.
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Apr 10, 2013 07:29
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Banshee Norn getting a MG release seems pretty much given.
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Apr 10, 2013 08:40
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