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Pierzak posted:What's with the liveries? Anti-tobacco-ad laws or something? Yeah. Some places treat scale models as kids' toys for a double whammy if you have tobacco marketing stuff anywhere near them.
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Apr 8, 2013 12:45
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BTW, I'm interested what do people who're bothered by Nazi/communist insignia do with the models? Paint them without markings? Use different (which?) markings? Paint the planes as a renovated contemporary aerobatic unit? Something else? I'm curious. ed: and now I want to assembled a WW2 German plane demilitarized/tuned/painted in bright colors as an airshow/aerobatic piece. What are you making me do threaaad 
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Apr 8, 2013 13:52
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The thing with the tobacco/anti-tobacco liveries is that some of them are legit. I know some countries ban tobacco advertising outright, hence the GO!!!!!!! liveries for V. Rossi's Yamahas. I will admit though, it's lovely when it's done to a model and doesn't reflect the real thing. Edit: Also, that ^^^ is a cool idea. Or maybe a Redbull livery?
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Apr 8, 2013 14:05
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Just finished a 1:35 T-72A, using the Tamiya kit with a modified upper hull and Miniarm turret. Now I've just got to relearn how to paint. Do you guys usually prime before painting?
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Apr 8, 2013 14:12
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Warbadger posted:Just finished a 1:35 T-72A, using the Tamiya kit with a modified upper hull and Miniarm turret. Now I've just got to relearn how to paint. Do you guys usually prime before painting? Yep. Tamiya makes a good primer, but any sorta hobby primer will do, I think. Jonny Nox posted:Speaking of which, does anyone put swastikas on their models? I've never seen a factory kit ship with decals for them included but I've seen decal sheets of just swastikas. I leave them off on anything I build since I display my models and don't really want symbols associated with racism and fascism around my house, thank you very much. I know how you feel, but I think I might start in the future. I feel a little silly working really hard to get to a certain level of realism, and then leaving the national markings off of the tail. I mean, if Warbadger here uses period correct soviet-era markings for his T-72, is anybody going to think he's a communist who supports putting people in gulags? Once, I was browsing a modelling site and somebody had posted a little diorama of some paper panzer (E100, I think) and the caption was 'Back to Moscow, 1947'. Its maker posted below 'oh, all these next gen tanks were so cool. If only the war had lasted two more years!' A Nerd wishing World War Two lasted longer, so more German tanks would see service. Can you believe this poo poo?
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Apr 8, 2013 14:38
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Pierzak posted:BTW, I'm interested what do people who're bothered by Nazi/communist insignia do with the models? Paint them without markings? Use different (which?) markings? Paint the planes as a renovated contemporary aerobatic unit? Something else? I'm curious. You could probably make an air racing P-51 pretty easily. Regarding tobacco sponsorship on racecar liveries, yeah, pretty much no major manufacturer includes them. Aftermarket decals do, however, and most serious racecar modellers will get them anyway.
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Apr 8, 2013 16:00
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Pierzak posted:That approach in the modeling/game companies actually bugs me quite a lot. Yes, 3rd Reich was horrible, Hitler was horrible, millions of people died in death camps, we know it already. If I make a tiny German plane with the proper historical markings on it doesn't make me a Nazi. But no, let's bend over to political correctness because See I used to think the same, but really Hitler was a horrible man who's administration killed millions of people in death camps and the swastika was the symbol of that ideology, not that nation. Pierzak posted:BTW, I'm interested what do people who're bothered by Nazi/communist insignia do with the models? Paint them without markings? Use different (which?) markings? Paint the planes as a renovated contemporary aerobatic unit? Something else? I'm curious. I'm cool with national insignia of "evil empires" on my models, so I'll build them out of box. I've come from too much time painting fantasy wargame miniatures, so I look to paint for aesthetics over historical accuracy. That being said, it it were a model of something like the Bismark, with it's enormous nazi flags painted onto the fore and aft decks, I would be a lot more conflicted. And you need to build Aeroflot versions of German light bomber now  do it....fake edit: I was looking for a hypnotoad emote, but all i could find was  Yes that's godwinning.
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Apr 8, 2013 16:15
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It was mainly the iron cross, and somehow no one gets offended that that still is on German tanks in some form. But hey, let's just pretend the details never existed, like a certain mini manufacturer (forgot which one) with a German halftrack covered with a half-folded Nazi flag so the swastika isn't visible and they can sell in Germany. If you don't want to offend people, why put a huge "IMANAZI" cover on that vehicle at all? 
Talk about red cloth-waving 
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Nebakenezzer posted:Once, I was browsing a modelling site and somebody had posted a little diorama of some paper panzer (E100, I think) and the caption was 'Back to Moscow, 1947'. Its maker posted below 'oh, all these next gen tanks were so cool. If only the war had lasted two more years!'
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Apr 8, 2013 16:38
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Jonny Nox posted:See I used to think the same, but really Hitler was a horrible man who's administration killed millions of people in death camps and the swastika was the symbol of that ideology, not that nation. That's where we're different. I will fight tooth and nail against PC laws, which remind me way too much of the other regime. We've had political correctness for 40 years of Soviet domination, thank you. To me the most important thing is to be aware of the history and how they (and others) could gently caress a bunch of countries and millions of people so it doesn't happen again, which is all too easy to forget when people focus on a symbol. quote:And you need to build Aeroflot versions of German light bomber now ed: To end my derail, does anyone have any links for models of fighters-turned-aerobatic-planes and other demilitarized hardware like JN's suggestion above? I'm curious how much work would it actually involve. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 20:07
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Pierzak posted:ed: To end my derail, does anyone have any links for models of fighters-turned-aerobatic-planes and other demilitarized hardware like JN's suggestion above? I'm curious how much work would it actually involve.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:31
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I personally have no interest in making military models because war machines are terrible things, I'd like to forget they exist, not fetishize them. Doubly so for the killing machines of horrible regimes and conflicts. I'd no sooner build and display a nazi tank than I would a model of a concentration camp. So I try to model positive things instead, like pretty buildings and choo choo's. I'm sure most people modeling military stuff just think they are cool looking machines, but if you ever really get into some of these modeling forums the people are super creepy. There's always a huge number of people utterly obsessed with german stuff and take it to a creepy extreme while always trying to hold up a public face of not going over some line into having a full on nazi fetish. You know the guy, builds tons of nazi vehicles and little soldiers. Loves to play as a nazi in video games. Always regurgitates the "clean Wehrmacht" myth and goes on and on about how he's NOT a nazi but respects all soldiers (specially german ones with their kewl tanks and uniforms!!!!). He'll play Hearts of Iron II always as germany and write detailed fan-fiction about his game and edit in the correct german flags and symbols, simply for historical accuracy you see. He'll cosplay as a (fat) SS officer and always go on about how it's JUST cosplay and nothing political. He'll have nazi flags in his house, just because he's interest in history though! A big part of the ban in germany to to help avoid this sort of white-washing and fetishization of the nazi's. I'm not really a big fan of the censorship my self, and I really don't worry about germany forgetting any time soon, but I can understand the rationale behind it.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:49
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Pierzak posted:ed: To end my derail, does anyone have any links for models of fighters-turned-aerobatic-planes and other demilitarized hardware like JN's suggestion above? I'm curious how much work would it actually involve. Swanny converts a USAF OV-10 Bronco into a California Department of Forestry forest-fire spotting plane: http://www.swannysmodels.com/OV-10AD.html Bolkovr fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 22:10
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I hate making interiors, I HATE making interiors. Usually I just stick a photo behind the glass or a cm or two back from the glass and it's good enough, but sometimes you need an interior...     I've also been working with a product called ez-line which is amazing. I've never found a better product for making things like power lines. It's very fine, very stretchy, yet when limp forms perfect even droops, no kinking.    
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Apr 8, 2013 22:49
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Wow, that's amazing!
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Apr 9, 2013 01:41
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Here's a kit I finished up about a week ago. It's Fujimi's much sought after Ferrari 250 GTO. I was really surprised I found it in stock at http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/, it was sold out everywhere else and commanding ridiculous prices on eBay. I am really, really impressed with this kit. The detail was incredible for a kit with no PE parts and was also very faithful to the original car, right down to the tube frame chassis. This is the first Fujimi kit I've built and I'll definitely build another. I'll try to take some pictures in natural light, it reflects the paint much, much better.  
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Apr 9, 2013 03:03
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YES! This is what I wanted. So here's my (very humble) contribution. All works in progress. (click for needlessly large) Airfix Bf110 C-2 Just finished: Major Decals Next up: Stencils (see sheet underneath) euugghhh Canopy (even more euuuuuggghhh) fix paint around decals and on wheels antenae and bomb racks weathering bombs Commentary: Hey I don't even see enormous mold lines or seams! Told you airfix makes a great kit I know the blue on the bottom is very wrong. Don't actually care, it's pretty.   Here are ones that I've also been working on: Dragon F/A-18F (ready for fist decal pass) Revell F/A-18C (Ready for masking) Dragon Tornado F.3 (Assembling, hilariously bad cockpit)  edit: Pierzak posted:
Meh, hosed up my challenge. (Aeroflot was Soviet and I'm dumb) I meant the later 30s planes that Germany was trying to pass off as civilian designs. bf110, Ju52, etc. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 04:36
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George Zimmer posted:You could probably make an air racing P-51 pretty easily. Just for the hell of it, I've really been kicking around the idea of painting a P-51 Mustang in Richard Petty's livery, and then either a Charger or 1968 Daytona up like a P-51 Mustang complete with metal skin, panel lines, and rivets. The plane probably wouldn't be that hard, but I'm going to need a lot more experience under my belt with Alclad, carving panel lines, and doing rivets before I would attempt the car.
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Apr 9, 2013 04:53
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SkunkDuster posted:Just for the hell of it, I've really been kicking around the idea of painting a P-51 Mustang in Richard Petty's livery, and then either a Charger or 1968 Daytona up like a P-51 Mustang complete with metal skin, panel lines, and rivets. The plane probably wouldn't be that hard, but I'm going to need a lot more experience under my belt with Alclad, carving panel lines, and doing rivets before I would attempt the car. That would be awesome, you should do it! Here are some outdoor pics of the 250 GTO:      Pretty sure I'm the worst photographer ever.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:50
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If you like the planes but don't like the swastikas, there's always this sort of thing: http://theaviationanorak.blogspot.com/2011/04/picture-for-today-is.html Unkempt fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 01:08
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Had this 1986 El Camino sitting about for ages (it's a US AMT model my ex rescued from her dad's garage, Box date is from 1991), second go at building a kitcar after doing a BMW 635CSI in January, but that didn't need painting, only decals. Finally finished it today:   Took around 10 hours to paint. Sparayed Humbrol matt white primer over various sub assembled parts (next time I'll paint the chairs separately), then base painted Liquitex Burgundy on all black parts for warmth, and cadmium yellow on the body. Gloss black and the silver drybrushing are Vallejo airbrush colours.    Next stage was basically endless colour washes of burgundy/red mixes, black/burgundy from the base up then solid/drybrushing unbleached titanium down from the roof, with colour grad washes of yellow/orange inbetween. Decals added, 3 coats of gloss acrylic varnish, then a fair bit of bodging into place and some superglue, because it's not the greatest of molds to be fair and the chassis wouldn't hold flat/flush otherwise. I'm happy with it, the rough strokes were intentional (if not unavoidable seeing as I don't have an airbrush), does look a lot brighter in real life, but that's cameraphones for you. First bit of model painting I've done since my old Warhammer days, and that's nearly 20 years ago. I'm going to have to shave the hood down too, it's not fitting very well due to varnish build up. Next on the list, Datsun 280ZX painted in Electramotive Devendorf colours from the 80's, because I like G1 Transformers.
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Apr 10, 2013 01:24
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Primed the T-72A and built a T-64B. Do you generally have to thin paints when painting by hand? 
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Apr 16, 2013 22:59
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Warbadger posted:Primed the T-72A and built a T-64B. Do you generally have to thin paints when painting by hand? It all depends on the paints and the surface you're painting on. Some paints will definitely need thinning, others work great straight from the bottle. A drop of flow release/enhancer can help as well with giving a smooth coat. My personal preference is to use paints straight from the bottle with a drop of flow release. I like the paints a bit thicker, but I load the brush very lightly and almost use a semi dry-brush technique. The thick paints helps it adhere better, but the lightly loaded brush and dry-brush technique ensures it goes on in very thin coats. I would tests your paints out on a spare piece of primed styrene, or even better a spare piece of the kit you're building. Find a consistency that works before you start laying down finished coats on the actual model.
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Apr 16, 2013 23:20
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Warbadger posted:Primed the T-72A and built a T-64B. Do you generally have to thin paints when painting by hand? Nice Tanks! I find thinning depends on the particular paint. For example, I find this shade of aluminum I use needs to be thinned to be realistic. Experiment to see what looks right.
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Apr 17, 2013 00:02
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If they're Tamiya paints, yes they have to be thinned while brush-painting. A little 91% rubbing alcohol will do.
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Apr 17, 2013 14:37
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I'll probably be using Mr Color (Mr Hobby?) paints.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:16
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Jonny Nox posted:YES! nice I love twin-engine heavy fighters!
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Apr 18, 2013 00:51
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Bolkovr posted:If they're Tamiya paints, yes they have to be thinned while brush-painting. A little 91% rubbing alcohol will do. I do seem to model different to everyone else though so ymmv.
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Apr 18, 2013 01:07
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Has anyone ever dabbled in the larger 1/16 scale tanks? There seems to a be a HUGE difference in prices between the manufacturers, with some $100+ and others $500+, and I'm not really sure (in my limited research so far) what accounts for such a discrepancy in price in similar models of the same scale. Beyond that, any particular brands to avoid in the 1/16 scale, or any that are far and away better than others?
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Apr 18, 2013 02:41
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As I understand it, some are built with motorisation in mind and some are not.
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Apr 18, 2013 04:34
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Arquinsiel posted:As I understand it, some are built with motorisation in mind and some are not. True, but those ones seemed to be $700+. There were several static 1/16 models for $500+ though, which was where my confusion lies.
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Apr 18, 2013 04:44
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At a push I'd guess it's the ratio of metal to plastic parts then. I'd really have to start opening boxes to see if there's actually a good reason for the price difference or not.
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Apr 18, 2013 05:42
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More tanks!  This cheapo Revell kit comes with a surprising amount of equipment and even the spare road wheel, but I added on some of my own stuff. I also didn't have any American crewmen (the ones that come with the kit are some of the lowest quality figures I have ever seen), so I substituted in Soviet ones. Let's pretend it's a Lend-Lease Sherman. The tracks are vinyl, but they are glue-able, and I managed to get them to sag with some creativity.  Action shot! 
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Apr 19, 2013 05:07
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drat soviets and their not reading the manual, the shame of it all! A red star on the turret would finish it off nicely as a Soviet Emcha, they didn't really bother with fancy pants markings on their lend-lease stuff like the British did.
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Apr 19, 2013 05:24
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I didn't have any decals, and free-hand attempts didn't end well. Google Images doesn't show any Lend-Lease Shermans with stars on them (aside from other models), so a star-less Sherman is still historically accurate.
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Apr 19, 2013 05:36
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Yeah but it'd look pretty and be a nice contrast. Most of the stuff on Soviet tanks seems to be disputed as to how common it actually was, with the things like "Za Stalina!" being discounted as propaganda etc. Arbitrary numbers on the turret also seem to be somewhat common in photos, but I've never been able to work out what they mean (unlike the obliging Germans, who hilighted important tanks...).
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Apr 19, 2013 05:43
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Arquinsiel posted:Yeah but it'd look pretty and be a nice contrast. Most of the stuff on Soviet tanks seems to be disputed as to how common it actually was, with the things like "Za Stalina!" being discounted as propaganda etc. Arbitrary numbers on the turret also seem to be somewhat common in photos, but I've never been able to work out what they mean (unlike the obliging Germans, who hilighted important tanks...). The numbers are unique IDs so that Soviet tankers can identify eachother visually. There is no system to Soviet ID numbers, as they intentionally kept them random so that you couldn't identify the unit/rank/etc.
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Apr 19, 2013 15:12
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Ensign Expendable posted:Action shot! I like the mud effect you have going there. How did you do it?
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Apr 19, 2013 18:07
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The globs of mud on the front of the tank and underneath the mud guards are made of Tamiya putty, followed by liberal application of brown, with bits of desert yellow in places. To get the realistic splashing effect, I took a terrible worn out old brush with very few hairs left that were sticking out every which way, dipped it into paint just a little bit, and painted the edges of the mud splotches.
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Apr 19, 2013 18:56
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Occasionally when I buy kits, I buy 'em just because they look like fun, or are of a fun subject. So BOOM  Here is a build Diary for this 1976 AMC Gremlin X. Made in Wisconsen and (atten Cdn. Goons) Brampton, Ontario, in the same plant that now makes the Chrysler 300C, the Gremlin is the V-8 version of AMC's 70's economy car. No, it's not mirthmobile in Wayne's World; that's the AMC Pacer, which even though it was made later than the Gremlin was decidedly worse. First step in building a kit: washing. They use a chemical in injection molding to remove the sprunes from the mould, and that gets on the plastic and can interfere with the paint.  While you are letting that dry, I took the transparent parts and dipped them in future floor polish, then placed them covered by a paper towel for 24 hours. That cleans up any scratches on the windows, and makes the clear parts easier to work with. While you are waiting, slap primer on that sucker. Then, it's straight assembly. Tools needed: some sandpaper (I mostly use 800 grit, available at your local hardware store) a wire cutter for snipping parts (ditto) and a hobby knife. Note on the kit: it's by a company called Round 2, which has a bunch of old Brands [like AMT and MPC] they've put into production after restoring the old moulds. I was not expecting much, but was pleasantly surprised. While it doesn't have the fantastic engineering of, say, Tamiya, all of the parts are well done, especially the chrome bits, which manage to look like metal instead of chinzy plastic [think Revell.] While practice fitting and sanding to make things right is standard, this is pretty minor compared to the stuff I've encountered on Revell Kits I've built.  I used my airbrush to paint the underside. I spotted some things that had to be redone with filler, and forgot about one or two bits. The underside of the interior tub, for example, is visible in the driveshaft tunnel, so that will have to be painted black.  Re-sanded the rear axle after applying a little grey Tamiya filler, as you could see the join.  A little squadron filler to fill in a few chinks in the engine bay.  The instructions were fairly general, but the kit doesn't have a huge number of parts, so it is no problem.  Also hand-painted the engine-transmission unit a steel color. Looking at online resources, I couldn't figure out if there were any special colors for the engine block - it almost looked like AMC painted the engine block a body color. Anybody know what's correct?  Still haven't picked the body color yet. The kit comes with stripes of a few colors. One nice thing about a car as opposed to an obscure kraut aircraft: finding real world info is surprisingly easy.   '70s color combos 
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Apr 22, 2013 01:54
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I finally finished a few kits the last few weeks. Here is a 1/49 Monogram Mosquito that I made as a night-fighter. Here is a 1/700 type IX C u-boat  z37 destroyer 1936a Class destroyer. Collided with destroyer Z32 on 1 January 1944 and badly damaged. Decommissioned on 24 August and scuttled the same day in Bordeaux. Scrapped in 1949. This was a 1/700 scale kit.   Malifaux minis - Somer Teeth Jones (A cajun goblin) and a robot. I don't play the game but I really like the minis.  Malifaux Mad Scientist kit  Two pack of Pz38H735f Tanks. I painted them gold because I used to play World of Tanks and the tank was initially only available if you bought it using in-game gold. It was a great way to grief players. 
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Apr 22, 2013 02:25
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