|
Sagebrush posted:Clubmans were literally designed so that you could get yourself into a racing tuck on what would otherwise be a standard bike frame set up for general purpose use, way back in the 1950s and 60s. If with your new clubmans you are scrunched up like this guy Also, clubman bars stated life as normal bars flipped upside down
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 01:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 08:46 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Interesting. Makes sense, but I'd never considered the practical difference. I assume you're referring to the hot-dip process as the one that makes the threads too large to fit regular nuts? I am making a cart of bolts listed as 8.8 (and a few 10.9 where 8.8 wasn't available for some reason) and zinc finish -- those will probably fit, right? I actually have replaced some of the case bolts (ones that stripped the first time I tried to take them out) already with regular black-oxide finish socket-head cap screws, but a few of those have already started to rust and I'm inclined to believe the reactivity series that says that zinc will be less corrosive than plain steel in aluminum. All the stock bolts appear to be zinc-plated, anyway, and there's probably a reason for that. Yes, I was referring to the hot-dip process. For bolts, "galvanized" is synonymous with "hot-dipped galvanized"; the electrolytic process of galvanization is more for stuff like sheet metal (traffic signs, streetlamp poles). The black oxide finish on "plain" socket head cap screws is actually there for the bolts to survive rust-free until being sold, and because heat-treated steel often has that gasoline-on-water sheen, which people find disconcerting, and lacking in uniformity. Oftentimes you'll see a coating of machine oil on these when you purchase them, which also serves to extend shelf life prior to being sold; definitely avoid these on your motorcycle. You should be able to get zinc plated socket heads cap screws, or hex head cap screws in an 8.8, a 10.9 or a 12.9. These are strength grades for metric fasteners; 8.8 is a bit harder than an SAE grade 5, 10.9 is more or less grade 8, and 12.9 is approaching or exceeding a grade 9 hardness. All of these should be available on Fastenal's website in broken (rather than package) quantities. Keep in mind to over-order for smaller fasteners, especially during the summer, as these orders are still filled by hand, and fans are pointed almost directly on the scales in the Indianapolis distribution center, which is from where these sorts of fasteners ship. The air from the fans makes fastener counts almost always get shorted, if the fasteners are little ones. Remember of course that the harder the fastener, the more brittle. For many applications, you actually want the fastener to stretch a bit, like a spring; this pre-stress on the more ductile fastener - when properly torqued - is what actually provides the fastening "power". There's a point at which the fastener no longer will tend to return to its original shape - this is when it exceeds its elastic limit (its "yield point") - and deformation occurs. More brittle fasteners have a much smaller range before they reach their fracture point. Here's a small discussion on fasteners.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 02:54
|
|
|
Thanks for all that info -- it's very useful. I got the zinc-plated bolts instead and feel much more confident about the whole thing. New chain tensioner rollers are here, and the bored cylinder block is waiting at the post office. I believe that is every single piece I needed; now all that's left is reassembly and reinstalling this engine into the frame 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2013 04:44
|
|
|
  Finalized the fork seals on the dumptruck of a R1. Made minor adjustments to the ergonomics of the fzr too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
Well today was a day of fail. I reinstalled the battery that had been on a battery tender JR all winter and the drat thing only had 22 cranking amps. So new battery installed. The R6 fired right up. I let it warm up so I can change the oil. My last oil filter box... Empty. gently caress. Drove all over town and no one has my filter. So I had to order some more online. Ugh. I want to ride.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 03:26
|
|
|
Go to Walmart or wherever and buy a Mobil1 M1-108.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 05:12
|
|
|
Put the head back on my XT225, set timing for the first time ever and it came out perfectly on my first try. Put the header, carb, tank on. Changed the oil, put the battery in and tried to start it but it wouldn't run. Crank crank sputter dead. It would run poorly for a few seconds at most then die, regardless of choke or throttle position. I killed the battery so I'll charge it up and try again tomorrow. I didn't change anything on the carb over the winter, but I did take a off few parts (float bowl, slide, main+pilot jets) to inspect them but found everything nice and clean, so I don't think that was it. The PO must have hosed with the mixture screw though because the cap is missing for it, and it was set to something like 5 turns out, when I believe it's supposed to be 2.5 to 3 turns out. I might gently caress with that tomorrow. I don't think it's bad gas because I put in fuel stabiliser when I put it away for the winter.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 05:56
|
|
|
Yeah that's waaaay too far out. Seat the screw gently, then take it out 3 turns to start with. Maybe run a fine copper wire through your jets just in case of unseen blockages.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 06:12
|
|
|
Thing is, it ran well before I tore it all apart.  I sure am glad I only have one carb.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 06:14
|
|
|
Hah, it always works out that way. I'm glad I only have one carb too, having to resync them and deal with vacuum hose b.s. after doing any serious work sucks.
Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Apr 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 07:00
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Go to Walmart or wherever and buy a Mobil1 M1-108. Seriously? That's the right one? They didn't have the Fram one. Is it more likely they have the Mobil one?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 13:27
|
|
|
Most bikes cross reference with cars - the M1-108 is a car filter that will work fine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 13:33
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Most bikes cross reference with cars - the M1-108 is a car filter that will work fine. One quick trip to the local auto parts store and now I have an R6 with clean oil and filter! Thanks again!
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 16:10
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:Well today was a day of fail. I reinstalled the battery that had been on a battery tender JR all winter and the drat thing only had 22 cranking amps. So new battery installed. The R6 fired right up. I let it warm up so I can change the oil. My last oil filter box... Empty. gently caress. Drove all over town and no one has my filter. So I had to order some more online. Ugh. I want to ride. I just put the battery in my DR350 and it wouldn't start either...It was indoors off the tender though, so I have it on the tender and I'll try and start it again tomorrow, but I don't have high hopes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 16:16
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Most bikes cross reference with cars - the M1-108 is a car filter that will work fine. They sure do Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference Chart
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 17:10
|
|
|
Just got in from the garage, got the bike running  Now to gear up and go for a ride!
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 19:05
|
|
|
Crayvex posted:One quick trip to the local auto parts store and now I have an R6 with clean oil and filter! Thanks again! I get all my oil change stuff at Autozone; I do go top-shelf and get the K&N cross-reference oil filter (in my case the HP-1003) because it has a hex nut on the end which makes it easier to get off.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
stevobob posted:Just got in from the garage, got the bike running Bike misfires/sputters heavily under about half-full throttle. I backed the mixture screw out half a turn at a time to where the PO had it and it didn't fix it. I'mm pull the carb off and see if my main jet is clogged I guess, I don't know a whole lot about carbs but I'll check it over at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 20:59
|
|
|
Babby's first ever oil change! Who wants some dark chocolate fondue?  
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 21:52
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:I get all my oil change stuff at Autozone; I do go top-shelf and get the K&N cross-reference oil filter (in my case the HP-1003) because it has a hex nut on the end which makes it easier to get off. If you're having to wrench off oil filters that you put on, you're doing it wrong.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
How many oil filters have you put on and taken off? Cause I've had ones I personally hand tightened require the wrench of god or a screwdriver thru the center.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
wallaka posted:If you're having to wrench off oil filters that you put on, you're doing it wrong. I only hand-tighten them and yes I lube the seal. I don't have to wrench them off; with 3000 miles worth of scuzz the filter picks up, the generally-oily hands I get when I'm changing the oil, and a warmed up engine, it simply makes getting the old filter off easier. Why make it tedious or painful when it's only a buck more?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 22:50
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:I get all my oil change stuff at Autozone; I do go top-shelf and get the K&N cross-reference oil filter (in my case the HP-1003) because it has a hex nut on the end which makes it easier to get off. I use the pure one 14610 on my bike because there was a deal on Amazon a few years back where I got a dozen for less than $30. Haven't quite used them all yet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2013 23:20
|
|
|
Ditched the factory can in favor of a Danmoto Titanium GP slip-on. I think it complements the no-nonsense looks of the bike pretty well and even with the baffle in, I'm real happy with the sound. And it was cheap.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 00:04
|
|
|
I seen worse. Man up, get some water and rust in there!
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 04:16
|
|
|
When I first took the oil out of my bike, literally thirty years after the last time it had run according to the inspection sticker on the fork, it was a lovely shade of olive green, and chunky like spoiled milk 
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 04:27
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:When I first took the oil out of my bike, literally thirty years after the last time it had run according to the inspection sticker on the fork, it was a lovely shade of olive green, and chunky like spoiled milk Yes but then it blew up
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 05:02
|
|
|
Two thousand miles later, yes. Clearly this was caused by the oil I took out before I even started it up  (though in the absence of any other explanation I'm assigning half the blame for the engine damage to myself and half to the PO)
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 05:21
|
|
|
nsaP posted:How many oil filters have you put on and taken off? Cause I've had ones I personally hand tightened require the wrench of god or a screwdriver thru the center. I don't know. It has to be close to a thousand, at least. I spent over two years of my life as a mechanic's apprentice and have done my own maintenance on my vehicles since I was 15. I have never had to resort to this with anything I've done. Maybe I'm just lucky, I don't know. I don't tend to get oil all over my hands when doing an oil change, though. That's why Jesus invented nitrile gloves, quick reflexes and good sense. K&N filters are twice as much as Pure One filters in my neck of the woods. And Pure One filters match the bike 
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 08:04
|
|
|
wallaka posted:I don't know. It has to be close to a thousand, at least. I spent over two years of my life as a mechanic's apprentice and have done my own maintenance on my vehicles since I was 15. I have never had to resort to this with anything I've done. Congratulations on being better than everybody else at taking off oil filters.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 08:16
|
|
|
wallaka posted:That's why Jesus invented nitrile gloves Man invented Nitrile gloves so women could keep their sensitive girly hands clean.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 08:48
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Congratulations on being better than everybody else at taking off oil filters. Sorry you're so bad at taking off oil filters. I've never had to screwdriver one either. All the bikes I have worked on they were very easy to get at and get plenty of leverage on a strap wrench. Some bikes make this job much harder than others.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 13:45
|
|
|
Halo_4am posted:Sorry you're so bad at taking off oil filters. How do you make the logical leap from "makes it easier" to "is required"? I've never had a problem with one I put on (friends and dealers, another story) but I guess planning to make it convenient for myself means I suck at it? Some of guys will jump all over any little spergy detail without taking the time to understand what you read. Keep the high quality content coming.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 19:36
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:How do you make the logical leap from "makes it easier" to "is required"? I've never had a problem with one I put on (friends and dealers, another story) but I guess planning to make it convenient for myself means I suck at it? Some of guys will jump all over any little spergy detail without taking the time to understand what you read. Keep the high quality content coming. Wait, so do you guys try to take the filter off by hand or something? I don't understand. Regardless of whether I put the filter on or someone else I always just get the oil filter wrench and go for gold. Is this seriously a contentious issue for people here? Or is it a slow news day or something.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 20:18
|
|
|
I was just being lovely because I thought that was a lovely response to a guy who was just giving their personal experience. The end cap does make it easier to get off, and if you're especially spergy it's nice to be able to put a torque wrench on it and get it exactly to spec when putting it on. Some people really can't help but tighten the poo poo out of their filters because they think a little loose will mean an unloaded engine. These are always another option that won't be filter specific. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-end-cap-oil-filter-wrenches-94096.html I'm pretty passionate about oil filters. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 20:34
|
|
|
My last bike was a giant pain in the rear end with its oil filter - the filter was surrounded over 180 degrees by a little pocket in the engine case so the strap style wrench wouldn't get around it and still turn, and deep enough so an end cap wrench wouldn't get enough bite on it. I had to bang a screwdriver through the one the dealer put on; after that my habit was the K&Ns with the nut. It's a pretty convenient habit BUT NOT NECESSARY BY ANY MEANS, YOU GUYS.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 21:24
|
|
|
screwdriver through filter crew represent
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 22:08
|
|
|
I guess my twiggy arms don't know their own strength when hand tightening. Edit: Those gloves are also useful for hiding your smoking from your girlfriend as my buddy taught me, lol 
nsaP fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Apr 8, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 23:03
|
|
|
nsaP posted:
 This may become very useful to me in the near future.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 08:46 |
|
|
Plasti-dipped my exhaust shroud and radiator guards the other day. The only color they had at Ace was white so that's what I went with. I love that there's no need for priming, and a clear coat is only for athestics. Just wash and paint. It's more forgiving than spraypaint, IMO. I'm not the most consistent when it comes to even application, and going at the shroud from multiple angles to get everywhere doesn't help. All in all, I'm pleased with how it turned out considering the amount of  I put in. No pics at the moment, but I'll post some later.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 00:12
|
|
