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Nothing wrong with the filters in certain cases, just seems like K&N is the Bose of the filter market. Good marketing, overpriced, dubious claims of superiority, etc.
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Apr 9, 2013 00:25
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Good ol' R/R / Stator connector fire. Rewiring time. (yes, this bike is cursed.) BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 01:01
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Cursed? I could have sworn its name was Lucas.
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Apr 9, 2013 01:44
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BlackMK4 posted:Good ol' R/R / Stator connector fire. Rewiring time. Called it! :P I wouldn't say the bike is cursed, I'd say the brand is.
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Apr 9, 2013 01:53
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Oh well, I love Corsa (http://www.corsa-technic.com/) - OEM connectors for hella cheap.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:06
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Tried getting rid of the old fuel-stabilised pre-winter gas and replacing it with premium to see if that would solve my pinging problem, but no dice. Going to have to get into this, I think. On the upside, the new valves actually make the thing able to run without choke after about 10 seconds vs. a few minutes pre-rebuild, so that's a plus.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:56
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I went from my engine looking like this to looking like this  She'll yet live again! 
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Apr 9, 2013 07:44
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Is that clutch extremely large, or is the barrel relatively small? I haven't really dicked around with classic bikes and the proportions look weird to my modernised eyes.
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Apr 9, 2013 20:29
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Perfectly fine for a UJM-style engine.
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Apr 9, 2013 20:42
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The clutch plates are about the same diameter as a CD. Keep in mind that about half the engine still isn't installed...it gets a lot taller and bulkier looking when the head is on. That might make the clutch look more proportionate. I had to pop the cylinder block back off because I forgot the little O-rings that go around the base of the cylinder sleeves. They are a gigantic pain in the rear end to get seated properly, though apparently this is normal and expected from what I've read. If I don't get them seated, the block "floats" about 1.5mm above the base gasket, though it's possible that they would seat properly if I just stacked the engine up and torqued it down. Some people do that and report success. Anyone have a good suggestion for seating an O-ring into a groove that is just a little bit too small?
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Apr 9, 2013 21:09
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3M spray adhesive.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:56
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Sagebrush posted:The clutch plates are about the same diameter as a CD. Keep in mind that about half the engine still isn't installed...it gets a lot taller and bulkier looking when the head is on. That might make the clutch look more proportionate. You know what else gets taller and bulkier with some head?
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Apr 9, 2013 22:34
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Geirskogul posted:3M spray adhesive. I stacked the engine back together temporarily and tightened down the inner four stud nuts to about half their actual fastening torque, and that squooshed the cylinder block down just fine, so problem solved. But are you serious? Spray the thing with glue and literally just glue the O-ring into place? Is that a common thing? I could see how that works, but it seems really counterintuitive -- I was oiling it up to try to cram it inside. I would definitely think that glue would make it worse. Tamir Lenk posted:You know what else gets taller and bulkier with some head? 
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Apr 10, 2013 01:36
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Sagebrush posted:I stacked the engine back together temporarily and tightened down the inner four stud nuts to about half their actual fastening torque, and that squooshed the cylinder block down just fine, so problem solved. If you spray the ring itself and let it dry to a tack, then put it where it needs to go without oil, it sticks well. Bonus if it's an oil passage O-ring, because the first run of oil will wash away whatever real adhesive is left. If the O-ring itself fits well but simply falls out sometimes during installation, you can paste over it with vaseline. Another option is to alternately heat it in very hot air (heatgun maybe) then very (ice) cold water, if it's one of the brown "gas-resistant" oil rings. I'm an Optician and do this for those zyl (plastic) glasses frames where either the lens was ground slightly too small or the frame has stretched from inserting/removing lenses too much. Lenses popping out? Take the lenses out, heat the frame to very-near-melting with the hot air blower, dip quickly in cold water. Do this a couple of times and the frame has shrunk just enough to grip the lens tightly.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:44
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I've just always used grease to stick o-rings.
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Apr 10, 2013 02:59
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Ah, yeah, you've got it backwards. I wasn't having problems getting the o-rings to stick in place, I was unable to get the ring crammed into the groove it was supposed to fit in. I'd push it down in one place and it would pop up in another, and if I worked it around with a blunt screwdriver I'd end up with about half an inch of extra o-ring in a loop. Basically the ring was the right internal diameter, but a little wider than the groove. Got it seated eventually anyway, though.
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Apr 10, 2013 03:43
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What did I do to my ride today? I sold it.  I'll get a new one once I get all moved down to Seattle.
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Apr 10, 2013 11:29
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SeamusMcPhisticuffs posted:What did I do to my ride today? I look forward to your "I bought a new one!  " post in the coming weeks.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:47
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Geirskogul posted:Spray on glue Genius. Totally trying this next time I'm in that situation.
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Apr 10, 2013 15:44
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SB35 posted:I look forward to your "I bought a new one! It'll probably be more like in a few months, once the house sells.
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Apr 10, 2013 16:43
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 Ducati rotors on a yamaha.  the 600 rotors were too little after the front end modifications so I went to rotors from a 748
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Apr 10, 2013 21:54
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SeamusMcPhisticuffs posted:It'll probably be more like in a few months, once the house sells. Are you insane, going that long without a bike??? Someone get this man a bike, as soon as possible!
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Apr 11, 2013 11:23
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I bolted the side panels and panniers back on the KLR, removed the windshield, and took it on a shakedown cruise to work! Only one butt-clenching moment!
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Apr 11, 2013 14:05
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Odette posted:Are you insane, going that long without a bike??? Someone get this man a bike, as soon as possible! http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/mcy/3726738902.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3730749870.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/3729904715.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/3736299982.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/mcy/3736195014.html
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Apr 11, 2013 17:20
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Swapped the black painted side fairings with some ones in nice condition on CL for a more OEM look, bled the front brakes, went to the DMV and got it registered and title transferred to me, and drilled a new hole for my replacement license plate since the previous owner lost it somehow.   Gotta love having the vacuum bleeder.  
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Apr 12, 2013 00:07
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infraboy posted:Gotta love having the vacuum bleeder.
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Apr 12, 2013 01:15
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Fuuuuck I want one of those. They're magic. http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV683...c+brake+bleeder You can also get the non-kit version for 125$ It's a great tool to have, especially if you have a bunch of bikes. Kind of on par with having nice air compressor and impact gun.
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Apr 12, 2013 08:21
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infraboy posted:http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV683...c+brake+bleeder Whats a good non-Vacuum cheap bleeder for motorcycles?
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Apr 12, 2013 12:19
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Nice, this thing owns.
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Apr 12, 2013 13:30
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Hmm, for motorbikes you never need to pull as much fluid as that. I wonder if you could just bodge the same thing with a couple of check valves, a comically large veterinarian syringe, some tubing/fittings and a catch jar...
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Apr 12, 2013 14:01
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ElMaligno posted:Whats a good non-Vacuum cheap bleeder for motorcycles? 8mm wrench and some hose.
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Apr 12, 2013 14:38
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n8r posted:8mm wrench and some hose. And some speed-bleeder valves.
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Apr 12, 2013 15:26
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ElMaligno posted:Whats a good non-Vacuum cheap bleeder for motorcycles? I just picked up a standard bleeder from the local car parts store. Nothing fancy. It was like five or ten bucks for a plastic container with a bunch of hoses and nozzles. You still have to do the standard "open-pump-close-release" but having the proper hoses and a contained, now spill system is nice.
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Apr 12, 2013 15:50
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I'm a few days late, but I cleaned and greased the main ground, cleaned the neutral indicator and replaced the starter relay in an attempt to hunt down the starting issues I experienced with the Multi last year. I was also planning to change the oil, but nobody carries the loving filter, so I had to order it online. Guess I'll do that this weekend. Might bleed the brakes too, but apparently I have to remove the rear wheel to get the back brake, so I'll see if I feel like doing that.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:41
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Tamir Lenk posted:And some speed-bleeder valves. gently caress yes. I put Speed Bleeders on everything I own, soo good.
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Apr 13, 2013 16:02
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Speaking of which, I put speed bleeders on my SV last night, and now I can't get them to bleed. I had to drain nearly all of the brake fluid out of both systems to keep from getting fluid everywhere, and when I put all the SB in, I couldn't get fluid to cycle through. Can an excessive amount of air in the lines prevent normal bleeding?
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Apr 13, 2013 18:30
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Yes and when you pop the old bleed fitting off not much fluid comes out. I swapped mine to speed bleeders last week without an issue.
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Apr 13, 2013 18:34
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Paff. I was going to get a vacuum bleeder eventually, am I going to have to use one now to clear that out?
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Apr 13, 2013 19:06
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I zip-tied the indicator relay in place behind the instruments so it wouldn't rattle around. I hate when stuff rattles and I can hear it over the antisocial-loud pipe.
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Apr 13, 2013 19:09
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| # ? May 14, 2024 15:26 |
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Put the speed triple throttle tube on my street triple. Wow. I know it's not any faster or anything but it just feels way more alive. The bike just shoots forward in 2nd and 3rd with really light input. I didn't find it too bad at all in traffic or at low speeds either. Best 15 bucks I have ever spent on a bike.
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Apr 13, 2013 19:50
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