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Swapped my snow tires onto the car last night because of the 5" of snow we got today, and more is supposedly on the way. 
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Apr 12, 2013 01:36
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I'm thinking of doing the Mini in this blue I like that one too. Maybe add just a little bit of toner to darken it up a tiny bit.
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Apr 12, 2013 01:52
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DropShadow posted:Swapped my snow tires onto the car last night because of the 5" of snow we got today, and more is supposedly on the way.
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Apr 12, 2013 02:01
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Finally did my first oil change on the Ion. After a bit of head scratching trying to find the oil filter, I finally realize  it's that plastic cap right by the intake.. right there in front. The oil that came out was  worthy. AutoZone had a $29.99 special on 5 qts Mobil 1 + Bosch oil filter, though that only covered oil filters up to $6.99... mine was $12.99, so I had to pay the difference. Still, with the filter, I wound up paying what the oil alone usually sells for.Noticed what looks like either a bit of a leak or a lot of spilled oil over the years on one corner of the valve cover (right by the filler cap). Blasted it with some brake cleaner, I'll take another look at it next oil change. I'm  totally in love with cartridge filters now, aside from the price (you'd think they'd be cheaper since there's no metal casing). Didn't spill a single drop.This weekend it gets new coolant. Got some AutoZone brand Dex-Cool, I'm giving serious thought to taking it back and getting Prestone - which carries a GM certification. $2 difference. I may tackle the serpentine belt too, it's definitely original.. and looks rather worn.
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Apr 12, 2013 02:26
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Coronet XX posted:Those wheels are magnificent, I adore them. Thanks, but they're just 18" replicas I use for my snow tires.
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Apr 12, 2013 03:13
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some texas redneck posted:I'm What's the price difference like? I'm definitely jealous of that setup, did the oil on my NC MX-5 and got that poo poo absolutely everywhere before, during and after having to use the screwdriver method to remove the old filter. It seriously looked like I just poured oil on the ground and said fuckit, I was so embarrassed 
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Apr 12, 2013 04:06
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Y'all need to get a set of these: We use em at my shop, they work wonders if you can get even a slight grip with them. Personally I hate cartridge filters, mostly because I have experience with just how retarded manufacturers can get with placement. Like Mazda with the MZR motor, where it's covered by the undertray, except for a convenient access hole... which is offset by like 4 inches from where the filter is so it's useless. Or Toyotas, which use a very particular oil filter socket to get the housing off, not part of the standard set - we've had to special order it, and it keeps going missing which is a huge pain in the rear end. Oh, and on all the ones that are placed under the car (aforementioned Mazda and Toyota, Cadillac CTS, etc.) they WILL dump oil all over you, even worse than a canister filter which at least has a drainback valve. Volkswagen ones are particularly nice, in that when the motor shuts off oil pools in the housing to above the level of the threaded portion, meaning as soon as you unscrew it it dumps all over your hand; or you can just let it drop and splash about 2/3 a quart of oil everywhere. Oh sure, some of them have a little drain valve you can stick a tube into to drain the oil out first, but it's usually covered by a screw plug which, due to underuse, is inevitably siezed to the point that the whole housing will turn before the plug breaks loose. And THEN you get to deal with the O-rings, which can be a bastard if they've got >5000 miles on them (not uncommon these days); Mercedes puts 1 big oring and 3 tiny little ones (<1/2 inch diameter) on there. Next to that, give me a canister any day. It's fins if you crush them a bit on removal, they're cheaper than cartridges, and the only real issue is double-gasketing if the old gasket sticks to the flange, which is a non-issue if you so much as glance up there, and easily preventable if you wipe a thin fim of oil on the o-ring of the new filter. I've never seen a really adequate explanation of why cartridges are so preferable.
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Apr 12, 2013 04:50
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:What's the price difference like? I'm definitely jealous of that setup, did the oil on my NC MX-5 and got that poo poo absolutely everywhere before, during and after having to use the screwdriver method to remove the old filter. It seriously looked like I just poured oil on the ground and said fuckit, I was so embarrassed Retail prices seem to be in the $8-15 range, even at WalMart. They're a lot cheaper online, but the oil was $35.99 if I bought it by itself.. or $29.99 if I bought a Bosch filter with it* (up to $6.99, so I paid the difference, bringing it up to $35.99) So... Even for a cartridge filter, it's stupid easy to get to once you realize you're not looking at a motor mount Fucknag posted:Personally I hate cartridge filters, mostly because I have experience with just how retarded manufacturers can get with placement. Like Mazda with the MZR motor, where it's covered by the undertray, except for a convenient access hole... which is offset by like 4 inches from where the filter is so it's useless. Or Toyotas, which use a very particular oil filter socket to get the housing off, not part of the standard set - we've had to special order it, and it keeps going missing which is a huge pain in the rear end. I guess I'm jumping on the cartridge love train because mine is right there and easy to get to.. and doesn't spill oil everywhere.  It's a drop-in type with a screw on cap, you might spill a couple of drops if you're in a hurry. It's the thing circled in red in this awesome Photoshop: Engine cover has to come off, but on this car that consists of "remove oil filler cap, grab cover, lift". The guy who rang me up at AutoZone did tell me "we don't stock the tool you need to remove the cover, the only places I know of that carries the tool are Sears and the GM dealer". It's... a 32mm socket. And a bigass crescent wrench works just fine, it's just a plastic cap with an o-ring. You can even order filters with a replacement cap.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 05:12
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some texas redneck posted:Retail prices seem to be in the $8-15 range, even at WalMart. They're a lot cheaper online, but the oil was $35.99 if I bought it by itself.. or $35.99 if I bought a Bosch filter with it. So...   (cartridge filters are amazing and all cars should have them)
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Apr 12, 2013 05:20
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Fucknag posted:Volkswagen ones are particularly nice, in that when the motor shuts off oil pools in the housing to above the level of the threaded portion, meaning as soon as you unscrew it it dumps all over your hand; or you can just let it drop and splash about 2/3 a quart of oil everywhere. You see that orange part there?  Push it in with a screwdriver and it'll make a pop sound & it will lock into an open position. Have your drain-pan ready before you do that though. Make sure to close it before you refill with oil. Never deal with oil spills again from a VW. Devyl fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 05:21
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Black88GTA posted:
Oh hey you can skip the "remove  The housing is actually cast into the engine block on mine; I'm not sure how I'd feel about a remote filter like that, at least in terms of worrying about a hose saying "nope", anyway. Looking at it from a serviceability view makes it awesome though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 05:22
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I'd prefer a remote style cartridge filter like that BMW, but I'll take a TJ oil filter over most of the other abominable locations. Definitely get some oil filter pliers, gently caress strap wrenches forever.
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Apr 12, 2013 06:22
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Can't beat the FRS/BRZ for ease of oil filter access: 
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Apr 12, 2013 06:26
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Previa_fun posted:Can't beat the FRS/BRZ for ease of oil filter access: We'll see who's laughing come spark plug time. 
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Apr 12, 2013 06:34
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Today I drove it for a bit and looked for coolant leaks. Checked the fluids, did the tyre pressures, loaded up the car with what I deemed the bare necessities for a drive. 30L water, misc. hoses. electronic coil. timing strobe. Multimeters 1x analog 1x digital. Socket and spanner set. heavy gauge steel cable with eyelet ends and D shackles. Enough ratcheting tiedowns to cut a car in half. Glue. Stag sealant. Jumper leads. Electrical tape. Shifter. Pliers and side cutters. Small alligator leads. Service manual. Oil. Brake fluid. Ether spray (remember I'm picking up a car on a trailer) tarp and I'm not sure what else.
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Apr 12, 2013 07:42
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some texas redneck posted:cartridge love train Neat, so it's super convenient and about the same cost as a higher end can style filter, can't really beat that can you? Curiously I want to ask if anyone has any experience with these? - http://www.qwikvalve.com/ - After the absolute mess I created last time I'm totally down for an 'easier solution'...so long as it doesn't leak/fall apart/pop out ect...
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Apr 12, 2013 08:01
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some texas redneck posted:Retail prices seem to be in the $8-15 range, even at WalMart. They're a lot cheaper online, but the oil was $35.99 if I bought it by itself.. or $29.99 if I bought a Bosch filter with it* (up to $6.99, so I paid the difference, bringing it up to $35.99) So... Mine is a little harder to get to with the supercharger in the way but it is still pretty to get to with a 32mm socket. I got the K&N filter that's good for 15,000 miles.
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Apr 12, 2013 10:42
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EightBit posted:I'd prefer a remote style cartridge filter like that BMW, but I'll take a TJ oil filter over most of the other abominable locations. I haven't been a lube monkey since 2005, is it straight into the side of the engine or parallel to the block like the XJ/MJ/ZJ? It's easy to accidentally short out the starter B+ terminal on those, or if you do it from above, snap off the oil pressure sender... my personal favorite for oil filters is the YJ, where there are no control arms in the way and the filter's right on the side of the block instead of on an adapter parallel to it, with about a mile of working space all around it. Reach down, or up, and spin the filter off, done.
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Apr 12, 2013 13:38
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kastein posted:I haven't been a lube monkey since 2005, is it straight into the side of the engine or parallel to the block like the XJ/MJ/ZJ? It's easy to accidentally short out the starter B+ terminal on those, or if you do it from above, snap off the oil pressure sender... my personal favorite for oil filters is the YJ, where there are no control arms in the way and the filter's right on the side of the block instead of on an adapter parallel to it, with about a mile of working space all around it. Reach down, or up, and spin the filter off, done. It sits normal to the block. I can't imagine being clumsy enough to break stuff while reaching for the filter; the worst offender for working space is the oil dipstick tube and the heater hoses. Trying to come at it from below is an exercise in pain tolerance, you have to snake around control arms and the exhaust. My arms are too short to do that anyway, and I don't like getting hot oil on my face.
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Apr 12, 2013 19:32
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kastein posted:I'm honestly not sure. If you unplug the sender, does it stay the same or move to the other end of the scale? How about if you test-wire the lead for the sender to ground? If I unplug It, there's no change. Haven't shorted the wire yet. I'm going to put an ohmmeter on the sender to see what's up. As an added bonus, the temp sender just started wigging out. It'll suddenly go right past full hot and point straight to the right, then bounce back, sometimes, to the actual temp. Unplugged the sender and the temp gauge goes to the lowest temp, so the sender is grounding out for some reason. Yay lifetime warranty BWD stuff. Bet the oil pressure sender is bad out of the box, too. Something I noticed when I changed the oil is that the filter comes straight out of the block. I thought there we supposed to be a 90-degree adapter, or is that only the 4.0? For ease of filter changes, I love my RX-7s. Filter is right on top like that BRZ. And the spark plugs are easy to reach. 
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Apr 12, 2013 19:50
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For some reason, BMW seams to be pretty good about DIY'ers servicing their own cars. Well every thing pre F-XX is fairly easy to service, and for some reason, every thing that fails or needs done is always relatively easy to do. I rotated tires around on the caddy today after I redid the whole suspension and every thing.... god drat this car rides a million times better.
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Apr 12, 2013 20:44
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EightBit posted:It sits normal to the block. I can't imagine being clumsy enough to break stuff while reaching for the filter; the worst offender for working space is the oil dipstick tube and the heater hoses. Trying to come at it from below is an exercise in pain tolerance, you have to snake around control arms and the exhaust. My arms are too short to do that anyway, and I don't like getting hot oil on my face. Yeah, the YJ is the same, I can't imagine being that clumsy either. XJ/ZJ/MJ setup (yay unibody frame rail being drat close to the block!):  The filter's basically parallel with and only a few inches from the sender, so if you have to use a strap wrench or even a lot of muscle and your hand, there's a drat solid chance of bashing into the sender when it comes loose. It's a plastic body with the metal end housing crimped on, so hitting them wrong usually results in a cracked housing. When I was a quicklube grease monkey nearly a decade ago we kept new jeep senders on hand because one got busted every couple weeks. Better to have one there to throw in than to have to keep a customer waiting in their car while you send someone to the parts store.
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Apr 12, 2013 23:24
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Previa_fun posted:Can't beat the FRS/BRZ for ease of oil filter access: I did the oil in a friends 2012 forester a few weeks ago. The filter is front and center like that. The drain is so far forward that I didn't even have to jack it up to drain it. That was a breath of fresh air after having to remove a wheel on my own car to get to the filter. Even then it pukes oil all over the subframe.
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Apr 12, 2013 23:37
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:I did the oil in a friends 2012 forester a few weeks ago. The filter is front and center like that. The drain is so far forward that I didn't even have to jack it up to drain it. Is it by any chance a V6 Honda or Nissan? Because regardless, gently caress those cars.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:11
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 Slathered leatherique on the interior today. The weather is warming up and the seats dried out faaaast.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:30
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Drove it to Worcester, verified I do in fact have deathwobble on the way there, realigned it, did what I went to Worcester for, drove it home, much less deathwobble. A little more adjusting and I think I'll have it kicked.
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Apr 13, 2013 03:47
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Built a new camera mount for the front of the Forester rather than using the inside one on the passenger seat. Its right over the headlight and I just used the bolt for the air intake so hopefully it doesn't shake too much. It rests on the headlight so I dont know if that will help or just make noise, the rubber seal on the hood holds it down pretty well. I really need a gopro. All painted. Made a mount for my CB antenna while I was at it.    I stole the hood location idea from INTERNETRACECAR, I was going to put in on the roof rack but it would have hit the garage door and sucked. I'll see how sturdy my handiwork is tomorrow on the highway.
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Apr 13, 2013 03:52
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I don't expect that to work well without a single bit of ground plane.
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Apr 13, 2013 04:42
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Mine is a little harder to get to with the supercharger in the way but it is still pretty to get to with a 32mm socket. I got the K&N filter that's good for 15,000 miles. I was considering ordering a bunch of Wix filters from Rockauto (and probably a few replacement covers), but AutoZone regularly throws Mobil 1 on sale... if you buy a filter at the same time (otherwise, full price). From what I've seen, they usually pair it with either a Bosch or K&N filter. Unless I buy, say, a case of Wix filters, it winds up costing the same to pick up everything at once as long as I wait for a sale, possibly even cheaper. Seeing as I'm only driving about 500-600 miles a month now, I really don't see any real benefit to ordering a dozen filters. Won't hurt to keep an extra cover or two around though, they seem kinda flimsy.
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Apr 13, 2013 05:36
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Dun dun DUN! Awful photo. but I picked it up.
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Apr 13, 2013 13:07
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holy gently caress! congratulations, I thought it would never happen.
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Apr 13, 2013 14:24
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General_Failure posted:Dun dun DUN! Dude, yes. From all your posts, it seems like this was the hardest part you'll ever have to deal with. Also, those wheel are awesome.
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Apr 13, 2013 14:25
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General_Failure posted:Dun dun DUN! Holy poo poo, congratulations. I pretty much figured something lovely was going to happen and you wouldn't get this one/make it home. I expect to see englishrussia-wtf-level photos on a regular basis now as you work on this thing.
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Apr 13, 2013 14:38
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Installed new bumper and side skirts.
-A n i m 8- fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Apr 14, 2013 |
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Apr 13, 2013 20:28
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General_Failure posted:Dun dun DUN! Neat! How old are those tires?
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Apr 13, 2013 20:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Neat! How old are those tires? Leftovers from the previous big bang. Well okay the mid '90s I think. Motronic posted:Holy poo poo, congratulations. I pretty much figured something lovely was going to happen and you wouldn't get this one/make it home. The hardest part of the whole trip was getting it off the trailer at home. It managed to get wedged on the side of the trailer. The less said about loading it the better. It was easy but tense. I just idled it up in low 1st and killed the power when I thought it was where it should be which was a literally blind guess but I got it right enough. Plus I learned that with the hand brake engaged it can drag its back wheels. Whoops. The trailer I got from the plant machinery place instead of the normal trailer place was as gigantic and overbuilt as you'd expect. Could have just about fit two of them on it. I was worried about pulling it down there let alone back again loaded. My fears were unfounded. The car did well. In fact suspiciously well. An average of 15.5L/100km. I only got through a shade over a tank for the near 600km trip. If you are into the automotive photo equivalent of gore it won't disappoint. The basics are all good but it's a real mess. Fucknag posted:Dude, yes. From all your posts, it seems like this was the hardest part you'll ever have to deal with. Suzuki rims. I like them and the offset makes them look mean. Mechanically I'm not happy about that fact but aesthetically I am. kastein posted:holy gently caress! congratulations, I thought it would never happen. Nor did I. I'm really not sure it should have. I think it was more of an act of pathological stubbornness than commonsense. Thanks, by the way. I have to take gigantor the machinery hauling trailer back today and go on another trip tomorrow so I probably won't even look at it for a few days. If I can find the previously mysterious to me other bits of the one man bleeder I'll bleed the clutch.
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Apr 13, 2013 21:42
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Pulled the exhaust manifold off a 20 year old jeep without breaking a single bolt or stud. 
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Apr 14, 2013 01:20
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Ozmiander posted:Pulled the exhaust manifold off a 20 year old jeep without breaking a single bolt or stud. Are you related to CommieGIR?
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Apr 14, 2013 01:21
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Honestly, I'm not all that surprised. I've pulled a few dozen of those bolts and never broken one, probably a dozen of those studs and only broken one... and it was while putting it back together. On the back. On a 6 cylinder, in an XJ. While putting it back together to get its inspection sticker. AKA there was absolutely no loving space or time to work, and it broke off flush with the head. It's still in there, in the beater XJ, no CEL, passed inspection, no fucks given.
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Apr 14, 2013 02:31
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I successfully lost my brake fluid cap today  . I think I know where I left it, but I'm still annoyed that I lost the thing I promised myself I wouldn't lose.
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Apr 14, 2013 03:32
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