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Down to the construction really. I can get 5ghz in rooms adjacent to our router, and it's an old antenna/chipset time capsule, so it's not the greatest. I usually just use it for bridging stationary devices.
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Apr 12, 2013 22:33
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Fil5000 posted:Have you tried firing up inSSIDer to see what other networks you've got around you? 3 isn't a great channel anyway from what I understand, you're best off on 1, 6 or 11 (picking whichever of those has the least traffic near you). Upping the transmit power also generates more noise, so that might have been causing you to see the network but not be able to connect. Channel 3 is empty. Channel 1 and 6 have seven APs. Tomato says 11 also has two, but I'll try it.
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Apr 13, 2013 03:25
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KingKapalone posted:Channel 3 is empty. Channel 1 and 6 have seven APs. Tomato says 11 also has two, but I'll try it. The channels overlap, so channel 3 overlaps channels 1 through 6. Channels 1, 6 and 11 don't interfere with each other so they're most often used. 
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Apr 13, 2013 03:44
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I just added another ddwrt wireless AP in the attic to my existing ddwrt router which is downstairs. I was having trouble connecting from my bedroom and now it works seamlessly up there. I do have one problem though. I have 3 wansview IP cameras which connect wirelessly, two downstairs and one up in my daughters bedroom. Tonight, I noticed that the camera keeps becoming unresponsive for a minute or two before coming back. I'm assuming that its jumping between the access points and getting confused-- it's not exactly the greatest IP camera in the world. My question is if there's a way to make it 'stick' to one of the APs (the attic one in this case) without changing the ssid of one of the APs
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Apr 14, 2013 05:10
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Is there any opinion on either of these two routers, running DDWRT? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...#scrollFullInfo http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=33-704-136&ParentOnly=1&IsVirtualParent=1 I've got a Belkin N300 at the moment, was running Tomato but seemed to freeze up/crash if I transferred a lot of files through the wired gigabit ports. I put DDWRT on it instead, and it likes to instead stop responding on the IP address to access the router, and occasionally just quit loading some websites instead. I'm aiming for TL-WDR3600 at the moment unless the other one is a lot better.
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Apr 15, 2013 00:03
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I'm running an old linksys wrt54g, stock firmware. We're generally an apple household, and don't usually have problems. The network is secured with WPA2 aes. The problem: a laptop (sony vaio) running win7 can't connect to the network. It shows the network, you can select it and say connect, it says connecting for a minute, then it just closes that dialog and never asks for the password. The laptop is only about 4 years old, any ideas? It doesn't even provide an error, it's just like it gives up.  e: The wireless adapter on the laptop in question is an atheros ar9285. I tried right-clicking on the network to bring up properties and entering the password there, but it still won't connect. ee: If I disable security altogether, it connects, although it strangely calls the network "Alfheim 2" after connecting instead of "Alfheim," which is what it is actually called. There is no "Alfheim" listed, so I don't know where the "2" is coming from. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 03:42
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Bad Munki posted:I'm running an old linksys wrt54g, stock firmware. We're generally an apple household, and don't usually have problems. The network is secured with WPA2 aes. The problem: a laptop (sony vaio) running win7 can't connect to the network. It shows the network, you can select it and say connect, it says connecting for a minute, then it just closes that dialog and never asks for the password. The laptop is only about 4 years old, any ideas? It doesn't even provide an error, it's just like it gives up. Press the windows key and type "manage wireless", press enter, delete any "Alfheim" entries, then connect again to the WPA2-protected AP and it will ask you for a password and connect properly.
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Apr 15, 2013 05:51
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Thanks! I'll give it a try once the owner of the laptop in question is up and about.  e: Excellent, it worked wonderfully! Thanks again. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 13:47
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Hello, I have an ageing but still decent Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 My broadband was recently upgraded to 60Mbit, and vanilla Tomato 1.28 wasn't cutting it any more: the best speeds I could get WAN-LAN were about 30 MBit. I flashed Tomato RAF K-2.6.22 MIPSR1 and I can now get almost - but not quite - the maximum 60MBit. I was wondering if anyone knew which Tomato fork is likely to give the best WAN-LAN throughput? I'm fairly happy with RAF's performance, but I'd switch if something else is likely to be better. Thanks!
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Apr 15, 2013 15:54
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Rexz posted:Hello, It appears your router doesn't support 802.11n. It's probably time to upgrade and switch to N to ensure maximum throughput. Though this point is moot if your device(s) don't support N
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Apr 15, 2013 23:07
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Ok, one other question. My understanding is that the lifespan for a modem and router is typically one year. I can absolutely attest to this with the three AT&T 2-Wire DSL units I went through. (One or two may have been a power supply failure.) Is this (one-year life expectancy) a fair assessment? Also, my old DSL modem sometimes got warm (a 2-wire gateway) but my Motorola SB6180 modem runs hot by comparison. You can feel the warmth coming out the top of the unit. It's not at the point where the plastic gets soft, or it hurts to touch it, but the Motorola Surfboard seems to run really warm. It doesn't appear to have any problems like crashing/locking up or restarting. (If it does do it, it does it when I'm not there.) It just runs pretty warm. I did some searching and there was a hint that the cable tuner actually gets fairly warm. (It does have to recieve data, transmit data back up the cable line, and do some significant DSP on the signal to get the data out, and quick.) My Netgear router by comparison is always cool. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 23:34
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It's highly variable. Good stuff often lasts until you toss it, cheap stuff may not make it that long if you have heavy traffic. Where'd you hear this?
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Apr 15, 2013 23:42
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Dogen posted:It's highly variable. Good stuff often lasts until you toss it, cheap stuff may not make it that long if you have heavy traffic. Where'd you hear this? I can't quite remember, to be completely honest. Now my parents have a cable modem for Road Runner that's lasted about two years so far with no problems. I think I'm probably worrying too much. It's not hot enough to hurt my hand, I can hold it by the hottest part for as long as I want to. I'm checking with some of the electronics gurus in another thread. Come to think of it, I've had some other small electronics (like the WD TV HD) that seem to run much warmer than I'd expect them to without a problem. On a completely different note, I tried to setup QOS on my Netgear WNR2000v4 and it basically crashed my router. Couldn't get any internet connection, had to reboot the router and quickly turn it off. No clue what I did wrong but I'm hesitant to try it out again. ADDED: Current modem stats: Frequency 837000000 Hz Signal To Noise Ratio 41.4 dB Power Level 2.1 dBmV Upstream Value Channel ID 3 Frequency 32200000 Hz Power 42.2 dBmV The upstream power seems high, but my understanding is that that less than 55dBmV is acceptable, lower the better. I saw another posting that mid-40s is very, very common and acceptable. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 00:13
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So, apologies if this has already been answered, but I didn't really see anything about it in the OP or the past couple of pages: Are there better and worse wireless networking cards out there these days, or are they pretty much all the same other than protocol? Is one wireless N card as good as another? I haven't had to buy one in quite awhile, but I'm about to move, and my new roommates probably don't want me running networking cable all over their house (which is my current solution, and why I haven't had to buy a wireless card for seven years). I mostly use my computer for surfing the internet, streaming video (Netflix, Hulu, etc.) and gaming, all of which benefits from a reasonably robust connection, so I'm willing to drop some cash on it if I'll see a serious improvement. The network is off of one of Comcast's higher-end residential plans, running a Cisco-Linksys E3000 Wireless-N router with Tomato installed; not sure what the modem is, but I think it's a Motorola combo unit (I intend to shut off the wi-fi for that once I get the router up and running). I'm running a pretty decent desktop with Windows 7 64-bit and available PCI slots, if that matters.
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Apr 16, 2013 05:53
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SeaborneClink posted:It appears your router doesn't support 802.11n. It's probably time to upgrade and switch to N to ensure maximum throughput. Though this point is moot if your device(s) don't support N I'm connecting with a wire, so no problem there.
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Apr 16, 2013 10:14
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Thanatosian posted:The network is off of one of Comcast's higher-end residential plans, running a Cisco-Linksys E3000 Wireless-N router with Tomato installed; not sure what the modem is, but I think it's a Motorola combo unit (I intend to shut off the wi-fi for that once I get the router up and running).
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Apr 16, 2013 16:28
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Cox just turned on DOCSIS 3 to my node. I have a a DOCSIS 2 modem. My speeds are great off peak and OK to good on peak. I stream a lot video during on peak times, Netflix, Amazon, etc. As I undertand DOCSIS 3 can multicast across channels, I am thinking that if I put a DOCSIS 3 modem in my house that would mean it would be able to negotiate better aggregate speeds during on peak times due to being able to split its communications across four channels versus relying on the overhead of a single clogged channel. Off peak speeds would be the same. Am I right in this thinking? If so, what is a good DOCSIS 3 modem?
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Apr 16, 2013 18:13
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Thanatosian posted:Are there better and worse wireless networking cards out there these days, or are they pretty much all the same other than protocol? Is one wireless N card as good as another? I haven't had to buy one in quite awhile, but I'm about to move, and my new roommates probably don't want me running networking cable all over their house (which is my current solution, and why I haven't had to buy a wireless card for seven years). I mostly use my computer for surfing the internet, streaming video (Netflix, Hulu, etc.) and gaming, all of which benefits from a reasonably robust connection, so I'm willing to drop some cash on it if I'll see a serious improvement. Have you looked at moca? If your primary internet machine is a desktop it might work out better for you than wireless.
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Apr 16, 2013 20:23
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Turnquiet posted:Am I right in this thinking? If so, what is a good DOCSIS 3 modem? I just picked up the default SB6180 that Cox sold fed into a Netgear Router. No fuss, no muss.
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Apr 16, 2013 22:31
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Turnquiet posted:Am I right in this thinking? If so, what is a good DOCSIS 3 modem?
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Apr 16, 2013 22:54
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spoof posted:The channels overlap, so channel 3 overlaps channels 1 through 6. Channels 1, 6 and 11 don't interfere with each other so they're most often used. I tried the various channels with no luck. I also turned off WMM like someone suggested.
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Apr 17, 2013 03:59
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Is there a good tool available to monitor my internet connection uptime? Something that can ping a few known good hosts and plot when those pings come back or not would be perfect.
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Apr 17, 2013 06:22
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Hi, I'm looking for "the best" VPN service that I can have DD-WRT autoconnect to. It can be in the US, I don't do anything illegal, just looking for privacy and speed/reliability. I can clarify further if needed, but that's a start. Google has revealed many providers, but I have no idea who would be trustworthy.
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Apr 17, 2013 16:41
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Dalrain posted:Hi, I'm looking for "the best" VPN service that I can have DD-WRT autoconnect to. It can be in the US, I don't do anything illegal, just looking for privacy and speed/reliability. I think I saw hostvpn.com in the SAMart; so far I've been very satisfied with them.
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Apr 17, 2013 16:46
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I'm looking for a router that has DD-WRT support and a real-time clock (with battery). I need an NTP server that can still serve time accurately after a power outage that also knocks out the internet connection. I'm looking online but real-time clock support doesn't seem to be something that they put on the spec sheet very often (maybe because it's rarely included). I know the Cisco stuff has this capability, but I'd like to avoid that expense, if possible (unless it's sub-$400 range or so)
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Apr 18, 2013 04:05
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gold brick posted:I'm looking for a router that has DD-WRT support and a real-time clock (with battery). I need an NTP server that can still serve time accurately after a power outage that also knocks out the internet connection. I don't know of any SOHO router that has a battery-backed RTC. The closest thing I can think of is an alix2d13, which you can use the x86 version of DD-WRT with. It only has 100Mbit interfaces though. You're probably better off running NTP on a PC if one is available.
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Apr 18, 2013 04:20
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gold brick posted:I'm looking for a router that has DD-WRT support and a real-time clock (with battery). I need an NTP server that can still serve time accurately after a power outage that also knocks out the internet connection. Wouldn't it be easier to just run an NTP server off a raspberry Pi or something attached to a constantly charging agm battery? A 50 dollar battery and a 20 dollar 12 volt smart charger will give you practically 2 days of run time without power.
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Apr 18, 2013 05:29
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I'm going to be moving into a house soon and would like to know if I'm going to have any issues doing the following: -Have the cable come in through the basement and have it hooked up to a cable modem down there. -Hook the cable modem to a wired router. -Have CAT5e or CAT6 ran from that point in the basement to the following locations: a media server that will be very close to the modem/wired router setup, a different room in the basement that will have a desktop and a networked laser printer (there will probably be a wired switch in this room), to the family room upstairs behind the entertainment center (for WDTV, 360, etc. Will probably have another switch here), and to a spot somewhere in the middle of the house on the first floor to a wireless router (specifically a D-Link 855 Extreme-N router) to provide wireless for the rest of the house, including the 2nd floor. (I'd have the modem hooked up to the wireless router but I don't think I'd get any decent reception on the second floor if I did.) My big concern lies with how I'd hookup the wireless router. Assuming I can use the wireless router in this way, I think I would need to have DHCP enabled on the wired router in the basement and disabled on the wireless. Then how would I connect the wireless router to the wired portion of my network? Through the internet port or one of the ports on the switch? Is there any other special settings I'd need to enable on the wireless router? I'd want all the wireless devices on the network to connect to the wired devices on the network (especially the media server). If that won't work, what kind of hardware would I need to look at to get wireless in the house? I already have most of the hardware described above except for the wired router. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to get there. I'd need at least 4 Gigabit Ethernet ports.
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Apr 18, 2013 13:03
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UndyingShadow posted:Wouldn't it be easier to just run an NTP server off a raspberry Pi or something attached to a constantly charging agm battery? A 50 dollar battery and a 20 dollar 12 volt smart charger will give you practically 2 days of run time without power.
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Apr 18, 2013 14:16
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Dayne posted:I'm going to be moving into a house soon and would like to know if I'm going to have any issues doing the following: I have a pretty similar setup and I ran a pair of Cat5e upstairs from the basement to the wireless router, one for WAN/Internet and one for LAN. You don't need a wired router as the wireless will still be the main DHCP server, but this setup uses a switch on the LAN side of the router in the basement. With this setup, you don't need any special routing or configuration on the router's end.
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Apr 18, 2013 14:47
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Dayne posted:My big concern lies with how I'd hookup the wireless router. Assuming I can use the wireless router in this way, I think I would need to have DHCP enabled on the wired router in the basement and disabled on the wireless. Then how would I connect the wireless router to the wired portion of my network? Through the internet port or one of the ports on the switch? Is there any other special settings I'd need to enable on the wireless router? I'd want all the wireless devices on the network to connect to the wired devices on the network (especially the media server). This will work just fine, I have a very similar setup. Basically your wireless router is just an AP in this setup, so disable its DHCP, make its DNS server just a forwarder, and give it a static IP that won't conflict with the DHCP range on the wired router. Plug the cable into the LAN port on the wireless router and it make sure client isolation is off. It /should/ just work. Dayne posted:I already have most of the hardware described above except for the wired router. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to get there. I'd need at least 4 Gigabit Ethernet ports. The Mikrotik equipment is popular for a purely wired solution. 4-port Gbit is kind of unusual and they do have those.
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Apr 18, 2013 18:36
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gold brick posted:I think something like that will work. If I were to have a dedicated device on the network, purely for NTP, I think there are RTC modules for the Pi that use the little watch battery to keep time after an extended power outage. I was just looking to keep everything on one device, if possible, to simplify things. Or stick a GPS receiver out the window?
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Apr 18, 2013 19:23
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Dayne posted:My big concern lies with how I'd hookup the wireless router. Assuming I can use the wireless router in this way, I think I would need to have DHCP enabled on the wired router in the basement and disabled on the wireless. Then how would I connect the wireless router to the wired portion of my network? Through the internet port or one of the ports on the switch? Is there any other special settings I'd need to enable on the wireless router? I'd want all the wireless devices on the network to connect to the wired devices on the network (especially the media server). Plug into one of the LAN ports or disable routing and plug into the WAN port. Turn off DHCP serving and AP isolation or whatever D‐Link calls it.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:46
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Just bought an Asus N66U - anyone successfully got DD-WRT working on this?
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Apr 19, 2013 22:17
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Man, I just spent my day doing just that. I got dd-wrt on the N66U and, in addition to the primary WLAN, set up a second WLAN with a different subnet than the main LAN with it's own IP address, DHCP, and AP isolation. It's a really cool setup, and the router's range is really impressive. Let me dig through my notes... I could maybe save you some headaches. Tapedump fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 20, 2013 |
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Apr 20, 2013 04:27
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My problem is i currently get my internet 125 feet away from my house in shop which has metal siding. I then have it going to a wireless router, and then underground to a long set of cables with 2 couplers due to cable lengths. From there it connects to a switch. Occasionally i will lose this connection, wierd thing though is the link lights will remain on however the connection doesnt work. Resetting the swithc will fix it but at a random time after the connection will go bad again. Burying another cable isnt realy an option. Is a nanostation the right answer to my problem and if so which one to get?
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Apr 20, 2013 19:15
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Seemingly dumb question, but I'm confused and haven't done networking in a couple of years. I have a cable modem/router/wifiAP that I want to disable everything except the modem portion. There's a checkbox for the wifi, but is the "routing" portion 'Enable DHCP Server'? I'm just trying to hook the thing up to the WAN port on my dedicated router/wifi station.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:12
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Zeitgueist posted:I have a cable modem/router/wifiAP ... What make/model?
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Apr 21, 2013 00:14
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Arris DG860
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Apr 21, 2013 00:15
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Turnquiet posted:Am I right in this thinking? If so, what is a good DOCSIS 3 modem? lonter posted:Just bought an Asus N66U - anyone successfully got DD-WRT working on this? Try the shibby tomato built if there's no DD-WRT on it yet.
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Apr 21, 2013 02:48
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