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slap me silly posted:Also your electrician has no class. eddiewalker posted:
In the electrician's defense, I bought the wall plates. I just wish he had called me when he realized they didn't fit, instead of taking them out of their packet, installing them, and proclaiming a job well done. In my defense, those were the only wall plates that match what the rest of the kitchen uses that were available in the hardware store. I will scour that leviton site for the larger version! If they don't match, I am sure the buyers will have my head.
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Apr 5, 2013 19:31
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Associate Christ
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Namarrgon posted:Some bathroom floor tiles make a hollow sound when tapped. They've done so ever since they were installed (not very long ago). I know this is bad, but how bad exactly? Itself, it's not a huge deal, but it's indicative of a larger problem. It sounds hollow probably because it didn't bond to the thinset when it was installed. If it's not bonded, it could pop off, which may or nay not (but probably will) eventually happen. The REAL question is why it didn't bond in the first place. That means whoever did the install screwed up somewhere. They didn't follow directions. That's about as specific as I can be, because this could be caused by not being sure the floor is level, mixing the thinset too thin, not using enough, not backbuttering the tiles, improper climate for installation, etc etc. Basically, doing it wrong.
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Apr 5, 2013 19:42
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Maniaman posted:The rear of my office building is a huge unfinished warehouse space with no insulation. In the summer it will end up being close to 100 degrees back there with probably 90+% humidity. There's almost no air movement, and it can really make the building start smelling funky. There's a garage door in the back, but I can't leave it open for security reasons. A huge unfinished, humid, stagnant warehouse... Probably a couple fan aren't going to do it. Better than nothing, but what you want to look into is an air exchanger. They run anywhere from a couple hundred bucks to a couple thousand. I just installed one in a home a few months ago. The home was straw-bale on slab construction and they had zero ventilation in there because of it. An air exchanger did the trick, and I think we got it done for about $300 in material.
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Apr 5, 2013 19:47
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Killing Flies posted:Itself, it's not a huge deal, but it's indicative of a larger problem. It sounds hollow probably because it didn't bond to the thinset when it was installed. If it's not bonded, it could pop off, which may or nay not (but probably will) eventually happen. The REAL question is why it didn't bond in the first place. That means whoever did the install screwed up somewhere. They didn't follow directions. That's about as specific as I can be, because this could be caused by not being sure the floor is level, mixing the thinset too thin, not using enough, not backbuttering the tiles, improper climate for installation, etc etc. Basically, doing it wrong. No I am fairly certain it was because they hosed up installing it. We already had them redo part of the floor because they hosed up the first time. Thanks for the information.
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Apr 5, 2013 19:50
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I live in a house that was built in the early 1900's. I love it for its charm: the built-in cabinets, creaky wood floors, ornate vent covers, etc. However, living here means also dealing with some of the ridiculous "updates" done by previous inhabitants. Namely, this abomination: (Ignore the power cord, though that's bad, too.) There are three of those terrible decorated tiles in my kitchen backsplash, all of them cut off on the bottom. I don't want tear out the whole backsplash just to get at those monstrosities, so does anybody have any experience sanding designs off of tile? Or should I paint over them? I worry that I won't be able to match the white, or cover the design, or get them to look at all uniform. I found someone else's backsplash painting project, but again, she wasn't worried about matching or uniformity. Help!
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Apr 5, 2013 22:05
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Melicious posted:I live in a house that was built in the early 1900's. I love it for its charm: the built-in cabinets, creaky wood floors, ornate vent covers, etc. However, living here means also dealing with some of the ridiculous "updates" done by previous inhabitants. Namely, this abomination: Personally, I kind of like those. But I can guarantee you that what you're proposing is going to result in something that looks 1000x shittier than a few tiles that don't quite match in color. Just pop those babies out and replace the whole tile. You can remove just one tile, you know, no need to redo the whole thing. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,20051584,00.html
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Apr 5, 2013 23:57
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The problem is that the tiles run beneath the backsplash :/ A quick temporary solution, until you have the time, energy, money and will to remove/reset the countertop (which is not hideously difficult, especially if you have two people) would be to peruse tiles online or at your local hardware/tile etc outlet, buy a couple you like, and either hang them like little pictures over the offending tiles, or hot-glue 'em over with a couple dots, enough to hold them but easy to pop off later.
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Apr 6, 2013 02:40
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PainterofCrap posted:The problem is that the tiles run beneath the backsplash :/ Ohh I see it now. I thought that bottom row was cut and resting on the counter trim, not that the trim was on top of it.
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Apr 6, 2013 18:30
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Is there much give in the back of the counter? If there is, I'd crack the tiles, and take a chisel to the portion that stuck behind the countertop, then go out at with a pair of needle nose pliers then try and slide the new tiles in place.
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Apr 6, 2013 22:30
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Not sure if I should post this in the wiring thread or not. I live in a historical district and my home was built in 1880, pure brick and plaster. I'm mounting some security cameras to watch over my property and parts of my block, as we've had some loving junkies coming into our peaceful neighborhood and gently caress around with people (heroin is getting pretty popular here lately). My question is what is the best way to get the wires from outside of my house to the inside? As it stands I was just going to run them in through a window on the 3rd floor which we pretty much only use for art projects and to stand on the roof to watch fireworks every time the Reds win a game. Though I know this will look all janked from the inside and my wife will hate it, despite only seeing it occasionally. It will only be 3 or 4 Ethernet cables, as I'm using IP Cameras that run on POE power, so not a whole lot of cable really. So, any ideas? I really don't know much about homes, building them, or any of this stuff. If it was a computer I'd be fine, but construction type poo poo I'm kind of at a loss really. edit; Apparently the normal method is to drill through the brick (I have to drill through the mortar with the historical home thing), through the plaster, and into the home, then seal it up and make sure there's a cable loop outside for any water issues. Is this going to be my best bet? RizieN fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 7, 2013 |
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Apr 7, 2013 16:12
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Not exactly a fix-it question, but this should be a good place to ask. Can anybody recommend a good wire stripper that works for very fine wires? I'm only trimming about 1/8" off the ends of the wires, so one of the clamp & pull ones probably won't work. I've been using a pair of crappy diagonal cutters and I'd like to get something better.
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Apr 8, 2013 03:47
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If you get ones like this (attached pic) with a hole that is exactly the right gauge, you'll be in good shape. If that's not good enough, your other two options are heated clamps to melt the insulation off or a Schleuniger.
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Apr 8, 2013 04:52
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RizieN posted:Not sure if I should post this in the wiring thread or not. I live in a historical district and my home was built in 1880, pure brick and plaster. I'm mounting some security cameras to watch over my property and parts of my block, as we've had some loving junkies coming into our peaceful neighborhood and gently caress around with people (heroin is getting pretty popular here lately). Bingo, you got it. You'll need some masonry bits and a drill, preferably a hammer drill but not absolutely necessary for mortar and plaster. The mortar-drilling rule is actually practical too since mortar is a lot softer than brick. It will be easier to drill from the outside in, even 3 floors up. To go all the way through a wall, work out a rough idea of where the hole will go using a landmark both indoors and outdoors like a window. Avoid drilling near anything that you can see on the indoor side of that wall like electrical or plumbing. Use a foot long drill bit wide enough for all 3-4 cable runs and drill all the way through the wall. You might need something like some tape and a straightened out wire coat hanger to help you pull the cables through the hole. Seal up the hole with some silicone caulk once you're done. Use some outdoor-grade cat5e for your cameras. You will also might need a smaller masonry bit for attaching some anchors to any brick. Stapling your cable to outdoor walls might be tedious but you should do a good job so your wife doesn't complain.  For brick they have 2 types, screw down and nailed. The screw types are just like they sound. You drill out a hole for the anchor and screw them in. If you're wondering about how to nail into brick, the nail types use really thick, short nails that you wedge the tip into the gap between the brick and mortar then nail down. They don't work if your mortar is really brittle or the mortar is set too deep from the brick face.SkunkDuster posted:Not exactly a fix-it question, but this should be a good place to ask. Can anybody recommend a good wire stripper that works for very fine wires? I'm only trimming about 1/8" off the ends of the wires, so one of the clamp & pull ones probably won't work. I've been using a pair of crappy diagonal cutters and I'd like to get something better. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17877946 It says it's good to 24#, but I've used mine all the way down to 30# before. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 17:05
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Does anyone have recommendations for a laser tape measure? It's for my dad who's a real estate agent. I just want something simple so he can quickly measure room dimensions. If it can calculate the area of the room automatically that would be a bonus. I've found a few models at Home Depot and Lowe's but they're heavy duty contractor models that are overkill for what he needs.
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Apr 8, 2013 17:05
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Mr. Apollo posted:Does anyone have recommendations for a laser tape measure? It's for my dad who's a real estate agent. I just want something simple so he can quickly measure room dimensions. If it can calculate the area of the room automatically that would be a bonus. You'll have to spend around $100 for one that isn't complete crap. The cheap ones are very inaccurate.
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Apr 8, 2013 17:22
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Melicious posted:I live in a house that was built in the early 1900's. I love it for its charm: the built-in cabinets, creaky wood floors, ornate vent covers, etc. However, living here means also dealing with some of the ridiculous "updates" done by previous inhabitants. Namely, this abomination: Is this a quick temporary fix, or are you going for a long-term solution? If it's long-term, do it right and remove the old stuff. You can carefully dismantle the counter to make enough room to get the work done. Just get yourself a cold chisel, maybe use a dremel, and pop those tiles out. Cut the new tiles to fit (many stores will cut tile for you, or rent you a wet saw) and install them per instructions. I'm guessing this is not that sort of situation, though. In that case, you have a couple options. I wouldn't recommend sanding off the design. I'm guess that's a common 4 1/4" white ceramic tile. If you take the glazing off, you'll be left with an unfinished surface, and you can't reglaze it without baking it, and if you're removing it to bake it what's the point? Painting is an option. You'll want to make sure you prep the tiles really good first and make sure they're grease free. I think an expoxy binding primer will be needed as well, but your research will probably tell you more. As for matching color... Well, it's white. If it's a specific off-white you can see if you can figure out the color using a color matcher online, or pop a tile off a more accessible area and take it into a store to have it professionally mixed. I'd say if you're going to do the painting option that you paint all the tiles then there's no worry about color matching anyway. Lots more work though, obviously. Another possibility is putting up a temporary peel and stick backsplash. I've picked the damned ugliest one I could find to show you, but they're like this: http://www.amazon.com/Brylanehome-P...acksplash+stick They come in a ton of different designs and stuff just look around. I wouldn't recommend this as a long-term fix, but hell it'd probably get you through a couple years if it had to. I don't know how well it adheres to tile, so you might need to take extra steps, like scuffing up the surface of the current tile. Either way, hope this gives you some ideas.
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Apr 8, 2013 21:33
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Seeing as it is time to bust out the bikes again, my friend and I wanted to undertake some manner of bike modification project. We landed on trying to attach an electric hub motor to our bicycles. The problem is, other than some very basic knowledge and experience, we don't know where to start. We have mounted a two stroke engine to a bike before, so we have an understanding of placement and implementation, at least. Our issue lies mostly in the construction of the motor itself. Does anybody have a link to a good enthusiast forum for this sort of thing? Or good guides or literature on electric hub motor construction? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Apr 8, 2013 22:48
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Mr. Apollo posted:Does anyone have recommendations for a laser tape measure? It's for my dad who's a real estate agent. I just want something simple so he can quickly measure room dimensions. If it can calculate the area of the room automatically that would be a bonus. I have been using the $99 Bosch from Home Depot for about two years now and it's sturdy, dependable, reliable, and accurate, and that's with heavy use (2-3 houses a day, five days a week, 3 to 10-rooms per house).
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Apr 9, 2013 01:27
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kid sinister posted:Bingo, you got it. You'll need some masonry bits and a drill, preferably a hammer drill but not absolutely necessary for mortar and plaster. The mortar-drilling rule is actually practical too since mortar is a lot softer than brick. It will be easier to drill from the outside in, even 3 floors up. To go all the way through a wall, work out a rough idea of where the hole will go using a landmark both indoors and outdoors like a window. Avoid drilling near anything that you can see on the indoor side of that wall like electrical or plumbing. Use a foot long drill bit wide enough for all 3-4 cable runs and drill all the way through the wall. You might need something like some tape and a straightened out wire coat hanger to help you pull the cables through the hole. Seal up the hole with some silicone caulk once you're done. Thanks! I got the cameras all set up, and luckily where the floor of the third floor meets the ceiling of the second they had run a telephone cable, so there were these kind of hooks on the side of the house that I used for the Cat5 cable, nice and snug and you can't even tell its there unless you're trying to. Now I'm all secure and ready to prosecute when some junkie fucks with my property. I ended up just using anchors and the normal screws that came with the cameras.
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Apr 9, 2013 03:51
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Corla Plankun posted:If you get ones like this (attached pic) with a hole that is exactly the right gauge, you'll be in good shape. If that's not good enough, your other two options are heated clamps to melt the insulation off or a Schleuniger. That's the type I was looking for. I probably could have been more clear with my question. Are there specific brands/models that you would recommend? There's a world of difference between some shitpile dull strippers from Wal-Mart made with garbage steel and ballpark sized holes and a nice pair with very accurate holes and sharp high quality steel. From a rough eyeball measurement the wires I'll be stripping are around 30-34G stranded. I'm not sure what the insulation is made of. Mostly, it is just what I would think of as regular insulation, but some of them are that semi-clear stretchy stuff.
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Apr 9, 2013 05:22
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Old West posted:Seeing as it is time to bust out the bikes again, my friend and I wanted to undertake some manner of bike modification project. We landed on trying to attach an electric hub motor to our bicycles. The problem is, other than some very basic knowledge and experience, we don't know where to start. We have mounted a two stroke engine to a bike before, so we have an understanding of placement and implementation, at least. Our issue lies mostly in the construction of the motor itself. Does anybody have a link to a good enthusiast forum for this sort of thing? Or good guides or literature on electric hub motor construction? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just installed a BionX kit for a customer and it was an easy install. There are some other kits for sale as well with laced up electric hub wheel, throttle and controller
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Apr 9, 2013 17:52
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SkunkDuster posted:That's the type I was looking for. I probably could have been more clear with my question. Are there specific brands/models that you would recommend? There's a world of difference between some shitpile dull strippers from Wal-Mart made with garbage steel and ballpark sized holes and a nice pair with very accurate holes and sharp high quality steel. From a rough eyeball measurement the wires I'll be stripping are around 30-34G stranded. I'm not sure what the insulation is made of. Mostly, it is just what I would think of as regular insulation, but some of them are that semi-clear stretchy stuff. I have a pair from Klein Tools that I've been pretty impressed with so far.
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Apr 9, 2013 18:10
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SkunkDuster posted:That's the type I was looking for. I probably could have been more clear with my question. Are there specific brands/models that you would recommend? There's a world of difference between some shitpile dull strippers from Wal-Mart made with garbage steel and ballpark sized holes and a nice pair with very accurate holes and sharp high quality steel. From a rough eyeball measurement the wires I'll be stripping are around 30-34G stranded. I'm not sure what the insulation is made of. Mostly, it is just what I would think of as regular insulation, but some of them are that semi-clear stretchy stuff. Klein and Greenlee are two brands I would recommend. I believe my strippers are from Greenlee, but I also have Klein tools in my bag. I have nothing but good things to say about them. Edit: whoa ok I just noticed you're stripping really fine wires. I wouldn't personally try to use hand strippers for that. I think a poster above mentioned thermal strippers. That would be a better way to go. Even a lighter or curling iron might be better in a pinch. Killing Flies fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 20:38
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dwoloz posted:I just installed a BionX kit for a customer and it was an easy install. There are some other kits for sale as well with laced up electric hub wheel, throttle and controller Excellent, I will look into it. Thank you for the recommendation.
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Apr 9, 2013 21:07
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I recently ordered enough pickets to finish a privacy fence. Apparently they just delivered them despite: 1) Never calling to set up a delivery time 2) Pouring rain 3) Not having anyone home to sign off on the delivery (presumably the driver did?) The pickets are only 5/8" thick pressure treated lumber. What's the likelihood of a great deal of them warping due to being out in the rain all day?
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Apr 10, 2013 21:20
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Shame Boner posted:I recently ordered enough pickets to finish a privacy fence. Apparently they just delivered them despite: If I were you, I'd secure the boards up before they start to dry out too much. Pressure treated resists rot, but they'll still warp when they start to dry out. How much depends on a lot of factors, which I can't really judge without seeing them. Even then it would be a best guess. But basically you can expect pressure treated to warp about as much as KDL. On the other hand, a lot of pressure treated is still wet when you get it, unless it was sitting in the store for a while. Like I said, I'd screw it down before it dries out.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:48
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Alternatively, ask them to deliver you a new batch or call your credit card company to dispute the charges since they didn't deliver what you expected.
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Apr 11, 2013 16:33
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I have just moved to a country that really likes to build its houses with concrete (Switzerland). While I've gotten fairly comfortable with anchors and such for really heavy stuff. But if I'm putting something light up, like a light picture, can I use one of those thin nails and hammer it in? I'm thinking not but it also seems like overkill and a bit rougher on the wall to go full-drill on it. Also I've seen places around this country that have used those nails, but I wanted to be 100% sure before showering myself in concrete chips.
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Apr 13, 2013 19:33
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Depends on the concrete, more importantly how thick is your plaster? I live in a terrible concrete house & can hang pictures with nails into the plaster.
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Apr 13, 2013 22:05
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I'm hoping this some masonry experts around this thread. I've had some water coming in a few spots on my cement block foundation when it rains really bad. So I dug them up and repointed them. I thoroughly cleaned out the gaps, sprayed them out with a water let and used Quickrete masonry and a bag to apply it with a tuck pointer to clean it up. Does that sound right or am I wasting my time? (I have to do another big section tommorrow). Also, should I just use hydraulic cement to reface the blocks where they've worn away? Should I use a particular type of paint to finish it?  Really I'm just looking for someone to tell me if this looks like a decent enough job.
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Apr 13, 2013 22:52
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So I've decided to renovate another room in my house and have run into some issues that I want to check out before moving ahead. As you can see I've taken off some ceiling tiles (I crushed some up and inhaled the dust, they don't smell like asbestos) and have stripped some textured wallpaper. The ceiling is going to be getting some drywall and here is the issue. MSPaint!  1. Where do I start to lay the drywall? Do I start on the top (flat) ceiling and work my way down, or do I start on the slope and work down/up...etc. 2. When the drywall is meeting at an angle, do I need to make angled cuts (probably not, right?)? 3. Should I use regular drywall tape, or something special for angled joins in the ceiling and where it meets the wall? Also, what is the best way to ensure a straight line where the drywall meets the flat ceiling and the wall at the bottom? The bottom piece of stripping was put on crooked, and made the tiles crooked in turn, so I pried it off and will replace it with a piece that is on straight, but I'm still not sure the tried and true method of getting this to not look wavy or angled. Thanks!
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Apr 14, 2013 02:36
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I hope this is the right thread to ask this. I have an uncommon Samsonite wheeled hardside suitcase, a variant of the Oyster. One of the smaller castor wheels has a couple of chunks taken out of it, and it causes the whole luggage to vibrate loudly when it's pulled and has started damaging the castor mounting from the vibration. I can't find replacement castors for this model, and I don't want to replace the luggage because it locks really securely (I leave it unlocked when I'm flying, for the TSA, but otherwise it's locked). Is there a substance I can use to repair the rubber tire on the caster wheels? I'm not gentle on this luggage so it'd need to be something pretty hardwearing; I've looked into industrial rubber repair putty for conveyor belts but I can't find it in quantities less than a pound.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:28
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Not sure about fixing it, but how about replacing it? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REPLACEMENT-...=item1c275ad653
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Apr 14, 2013 04:32
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One Swell Foop posted:I hope this is the right thread to ask this. I have an uncommon Samsonite wheeled hardside suitcase, a variant of the Oyster. One of the smaller castor wheels has a couple of chunks taken out of it, and it causes the whole luggage to vibrate loudly when it's pulled and has started damaging the castor mounting from the vibration. I can't find replacement castors for this model, and I don't want to replace the luggage because it locks really securely (I leave it unlocked when I'm flying, for the TSA, but otherwise it's locked). Is there a substance I can use to repair the rubber tire on the caster wheels? I'm not gentle on this luggage so it'd need to be something pretty hardwearing; I've looked into industrial rubber repair putty for conveyor belts but I can't find it in quantities less than a pound. Never done it myself, but I've heard of people using in line skate wheels to replace worn suitcase wheels. There are a couple of YouTube videos demonstrating this, although the wheels don't look identical to your luggage.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:37
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Thanks for the replies; I'm not sure about finding a replacement, I've already tried a couple of authorized Samsonite repair shops and they can't find replacements for this model. I'll contact that ebay seller but I'm not too hopeful. Regarding the skate wheels, I think these particular wheels are too small, they're only about 4cm in diameter. Ideally I'd like a recommendation for rubber repair, I was thinking milliput or something similar but I don't think it would adhere well. Alternatively, I could mould in a milliput filler, take it out when it dries, then epoxy it back in, and maybe even wrap some kind of tape around it for security. Any additional advice would be appreciated though. One Swell Foop fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Apr 14, 2013 |
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Apr 14, 2013 04:57
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Re: drywall, I know you put the ceiling up first, beyond that I'm not much help.
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Apr 15, 2013 00:08
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wormil posted:Re: drywall, I know you put the ceiling up first, beyond that I'm not much help. I've heard that from two sources now, so I guess I'm good to go as soon as I can find someone to hold the drat stuff up.
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Apr 15, 2013 01:38
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Build a deadman! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWWlHr3Kkrg
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Apr 15, 2013 01:57
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Ahh gently caress. The sink in our fancy new kitchen is clogged... I think. It happened after using the sink disposal, which is something I've never dealt with before. I think there is a clog beyond the point where the two sink drains meet, as when I turn on water and run the disposal, everything gets shot up into the other sink. When you turn it off, it drains out of the 2nd sink and comes up into equilibrium with the disposal sink. Gross. I guess I am going to google how to fix this (it is 10pm and I just want to go to bed :/ ) but if anyone has advice, I would love to hear it. I only put carrot and potato skins in there and it seemed happy enough to grind them up  .edit: And apparently you are not supposed to put potato skins in a disposal. Huh. I have tried vinegar and boiling water. I can seal the non-disposal side and plunge the disposal side, but the clog will not budge. I don't have a seal/plug that will block the disposal side, if it would matter... other people fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 03:17
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bollig posted:I have just moved to a country that really likes to build its houses with concrete (Switzerland). While I've gotten fairly comfortable with anchors and such for really heavy stuff. But if I'm putting something light up, like a light picture, can I use one of those thin nails and hammer it in? I'm thinking not but it also seems like overkill and a bit rougher on the wall to go full-drill on it. Also I've seen places around this country that have used those nails, but I wanted to be 100% sure before showering myself in concrete chips. For what it's worth when we hung pictures or heavier stuff on our walls in Switzerland (brick & poured concrete house) we drilled a hole with a masonry bit & hammered in either a plastic or wooden plug, then used either a screw or a nail. When we move out we filled the holes with masonry caulk or mixed brick dust (drilled out an old brick) with white glue. Kaluza-Klein posted:Ahh gently caress. The sink in our fancy new kitchen is clogged... I think. The only things I've heard NOT to put down a disposal are coffee grounds and celery (fibrous stuff that wraps around the shaft) My last ditch before opening the drain would be to fill both sinks to the top & the start up the garbage disposal. If that doesn't work you'll have to drain it, pull the trap & check it; if that's clear, then snake the line below the trap. Unless you have access to the drain line from below (i.e. in the basement), you'd have to call a plumber. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 15, 2013 04:45
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