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Yeah, good times. Makes me look forward to a grown-up bike, though. That sort of distance on a 250 is a bit like this: The helmet's doing fine. There's a couple of chips in the shell and some of the sharpie has faded, but I'm going to sand back the clearcoat and touch up the design with lightfast poscas soon. Should be A+ for moar dumb adventures.
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Apr 19, 2013 02:59
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I kinda wish that was one of those 3D pictures
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Apr 19, 2013 06:26
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Disassembled everything, took the engine out, took off the camshaft cover, removed the camshaft sprocket bolts and loctited them in place and torqued them down so hard I felt like I was going to give myself a hernia. Put the cover back on and reinstalled everything into the bike. Two and a half hours of work for two bolts, but I feel much better about the engine's reliability now. Still waiting on that clutch pushrod oil seal (which is definitely what is causing the oil hemorrhage from the sprocket cover -- there's way too much play between the seal and the shaft). Hopefully it'll arrive tomorrow and I can get this buttoned up and go for a ride 
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Apr 20, 2013 01:56
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 Appears my bike is losing oil and has been a few days from the drips on the garage floor. I haven't done my spring change of it yet so hopefully it's just leakin from the filter and isn't something worse.
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Apr 20, 2013 20:25
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I got a thing from a place.  I picked up my frame from the powder coater! I got really excited and hauled it into my room with the rest of my parts and threw a few bits onto it to take some really, really poor quality and grossly over sized pictures. I now have most of a motorcycle assembled in my attic! I'm going to go paint the lower triple tree now so I can throw some forks on it tonight. I'm going to get it mostly assembled in my room so I can make a wiring harness in a well light, heated area.
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Apr 20, 2013 23:14
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How do you get it out of the attic when you're done?
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Apr 21, 2013 00:38
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Sagebrush posted:How do you get it out of the attic when you're done? Same way it got in. A wicked jump. I mean, carried in pieces. It'll be a loose assembly, I'll take it downstairs in major assemblies and torque it all together downstairs. I'm still refilling my forks up here, though, smell be damned.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:50
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Drilled holes in it... Well mostly I just watched as Nerobro drilled holes in it. Appropriate weighted straight rate springs from RaceTech and their cartridge emulators have made the straight line bike able to take a corner. It was a bit below 40 on my ride home yesterday so I didn't spend too much time finding the new limits of the bike, but drat what a difference over 80's damping rod tech. Finding new ways to save weight by removing some of unnecessary parts.  Then drilling holes in a perfectly good motorcycle:  We also lowered the bike down an inch. The tales of Nero's ability to lower a bike are not overstated :P
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Apr 21, 2013 13:38
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Commodore_64 posted:I got a thing from a place. Cool. I see you're running SZR wheels for a less 'vintage' tire size?
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Apr 21, 2013 14:59
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Got it out of storage today  Took it out for a bit of a cruise and 15 miles in, clutch cable snaps  Fortunately Emergency Roadside Assistance got me back home. Actually kinda glad I pay like $5/year on that!
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Apr 21, 2013 22:54
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High Protein posted:Cool. I see you're running SZR wheels for a less 'vintage' tire size? I'm unsure if these wheels were shared by other models, but I was under the impression on 87-89 1JK models these where the stock wheels. http://www.algonet.se/~anils/The_Bike/SRX_87_-89_/srx_87_-89_.html
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Apr 22, 2013 00:49
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SB35 posted:Got it out of storage today Practice driving around without ever using the clutch. It will help next time this happens. It may put a bit of wear on the gearbox/starter/battery, but it's a useful skill. Know where your clutch switch (if any) is, and how to disable it, too.
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Apr 22, 2013 05:35
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Kinda hard to go from neutral to first and take off without a clutch though.
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Apr 22, 2013 06:41
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Nah, it's an easy four step process. 1. Rev it up 2. Stomp down hard 3. Hang on tight 4. Replace transmission
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Apr 22, 2013 07:01
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Got the Duc running out of storage with a new stator, regulator/rectifier, all new heavier wires between stator/regulator/starter/battery/ground, chain/sprockets, new exhaust hangers not made out of aluminum so they won't sag and hit the swingarm, and a rotor spacer that's supposed to throw more oil on the stator so it doesn't fry itself again. Starts up fuckin great with those new wires. Starter barely turned before. Couldn't believe how well it ran, with old gas and poo poo. Still feeling a weird clunking on the left footpeg under hard acceleration at certain RPMs in certain lean angles. Still can't figure that out. Guess I'll check chain tension again.
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Apr 22, 2013 15:17
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Halo_4am posted:We also lowered the bike down an inch. The tales of Nero's ability to lower a bike are not overstated :P I did some more work on Sunday. I made a license plate mount for my WR250. And proceeded to fall over at two stop signs because I couldn't get my foot down properly. And I rode the GS650 to work today. Yey motorcycles right? Next comes doing the valves and valve cover gasket on the GS650.. My pants have oil on them.
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Apr 22, 2013 15:39
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Nerobro posted:proceeded to fall over at two stop signs because I couldn't get my foot down properly. OK, maybe the lowering abilities were overstated a little. 
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Apr 22, 2013 17:45
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Got the sidecar on the road on saturday. Need to get some video soon. Carbs still need some tweaking, still need breather hoses and catch can installed, and the bodywork is still off. Front axle loosened up halfway through and caused quite a wobble. Got the axle fixed and did some loops around a big parking lot. Driver steered wrong by surprise and knocked me off balance and I ended up sitting on the side wheel for a second which almost threw me forward off the bike. Neither of us wearing any gear. P awesome. Oh and discovered after one carb was pissing gas right onto the exhaust header. Here it is in test run trim.  And I bought a poster for the shop in honor of our first racing sidecar.  Yeah that's the MST3k movie. Original 1968 poster. That's gonna be me. Hard rider mounted on burning steel.
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Apr 22, 2013 18:45
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Commodore_64 posted:I'm unsure if these wheels were shared by other models, but I was under the impression on 87-89 1JK models these where the stock wheels. Ah nice, didn't know about that. Those wheels are a good thing though, when I needed a new front tire I could only find a single one that fit (BT45). Those tires were pretty dang cheap though.
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Apr 22, 2013 18:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Got the sidecar on the road on saturday. Need to get some video soon. Carbs still need some tweaking, still need breather hoses and catch can installed, and the bodywork is still off. Front axle loosened up halfway through and caused quite a wobble. Got the axle fixed and did some loops around a big parking lot. Driver steered wrong by surprise and knocked me off balance and I ended up sitting on the side wheel for a second which almost threw me forward off the bike. Neither of us wearing any gear. P awesome. Oh and discovered after one carb was pissing gas right onto the exhaust header. Sweet trailer tire.
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Apr 22, 2013 19:12
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nsaP posted:
I looked closer into this and couldn't see any evidence of leaking from the filter or the drain hole, but there was a lot of crap around the sprocket. I'd just tried this new lube http://www.lowes.com/pd_403805-75041-10500_0__?productId=3697086 and it seemed thinner when I applied it, and thinking back I was also put on a poo poo ton and waited a while to wipe off the excess. I think a lot of that stuff just flung around the sprocket area and picked up a lot of the gunk that was in there, and was slowly dripping and coating other parts of the motor. I hadn't taken the sprocket cover off since last year to be honest. I changed the oil with some Rotella T and it seems to be fine beside my shop contracting the Hulk to crank down the filter and drain bolt. I did have a minor "poo poo poo poo poo poo" moment when I started it up and drips came pouring down, but it turned out to be water that was in the exhaust.
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Apr 22, 2013 20:37
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I continued working on the Buell, prepping it for the cross country trip that is now... 5 weeks away.  Replaced the rear bearing, which meant buying a blind bearing puller, and lots of ice to help break free the axle that the shop decided they needed to wear out an impact wrench tightening, had to freeze the axle, and use a 4 foot breaker bar to get the rear wheel off. Then it was a matter of throwing on a new renthal low rise bar, rebuilding the front master cylinder, and replace the lovely stock levers.   I am pretty sure the new levers moved the pivot point, because the clutch feels snappier, the brakes are literally thousands of times better, the old master cylinder was so bad I really only had 3 stages of brakes, it would just hang until you forced it past the dry part. Now I have actual control, instead of having to modulate the rear just to not slide the bike at a stop sign. The bearings died at the welder when I was having the brackets made up for my Givi bags. Maybe I am getting old, but I don't know why you would want a bike with no storage space any more, these things are great.
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Apr 23, 2013 12:49
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nsaP posted:seems to be fine beside my shop contracting the Hulk to crank down the filter and drain bolt This is why I do my own oil changes. Every shop torques poo poo down way too hard. First time I did my own oil change I had to crack the drain bolt loose with a 36 inch breaker bar. The manual specifies (IIRC) 15nm 
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Apr 23, 2013 14:33
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Yeah, same here. I try to do everything I possibly can myself. The shop I bought my bike from used an impact tool to put the steering head nut on my bike. Even with a breaker bar I couldn't budge it. I just took it over there and had them remove it and re-torque it to the correct 60 ft/lbs.
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Apr 23, 2013 15:06
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ReverendCode posted:I continued working on the Buell, prepping it for the cross country trip that is now... 5 weeks away. I have five weeks until mine as well. Still need to replace my intake seals before I go.
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Apr 23, 2013 16:26
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clutchpuck posted:I have five weeks until mine as well. Still need to replace my intake seals before I go. you are starting with a touring model though, I am making one out of the lightning. I think I may end up staying with the race map, unless I learn enough to get some better fuel economy out of the tune, throttle response is spot on. (even better since I disassembled the throttle tube and cleaned it out) I just wish I got a bit more than 130 miles before the idiot light came on. (3.4 gallons used)
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Apr 23, 2013 16:29
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clutchpuck posted:I have five weeks until mine as well. Still need to replace my intake seals before I go. Are you gonna do it with or without dropping the engine? I replaced mine with the blue ones on this page http://www.jpcycles.com/harley-parts/james-gaskets/intake but honestly it didn't make that much of a difference; idle is still slow to drop from ~2000 rpm. Decreasing the idle speed supposedly helps but I don't want to go lower than 1050. ReverendCode posted:you are starting with a touring model though, I am making one out of the lightning. Interesting that you're running the race map with the stock exhaust, but honestly the stock exhaust's torque curve is better for on the street. Race sounds much better though.
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Apr 23, 2013 16:41
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Woot!  What's up 5 weeks to go cross country trip buddies? I leave Jun 6th for my cross country trip. Flying to GA to pick up the Concours with my wife then ride back to CA 2 up with about 5 family members on different biekz. It's going to be a rolling redneck family reunion.As for what I've done to stay on topic, I've bought parts. So fair I've gotten a backrest, passenger peg extensions, a corbin saddle new boots/gloves/pants for my wife, some new pants for me and helmet coms. All I need now is some rain gear for her, a new jacket for me and a cellphone mount for the bike.
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Apr 23, 2013 16:42
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theperminator posted:Kinda hard to go from neutral to first and take off without a clutch though. That's why you disable the appropriate switches and use the starter + pushing in 1st gear to get the motor running as you take off. You then just plan as much as possible to not stop anymore. If you can get down into neutral for a stop, you can usually push the bike and get going fast enough that you're close to 2nd gear's speed at idle, too.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:04
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ReverendCode posted:you are starting with a touring model though, I am making one out of the lightning. You look pretty well set-up with those Givis. Only thing I'd add to that if you don't already have it is a bungee cargo net. I'm doing hotels the entire way, which is new to me on these sort of trips. No camping gear or cooking stuff and laundry machines on the far-end means I only really have to pack one week's worth of clothes. I might even be able to go pannier-less with a dry bag on the tail and my tank bag on the airbox. It would be nice for that west Texas I-10 haul; the Pelicans are solid air brakes at those speeds. As for fuel economy, you get about what I get with the EBR Drummer mapping. Comparing the race map to the Drummer's, it's almost the same in the cruise range, which is pretty lean. I don't think you can get much better MPG on this bike.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:09
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:That's why you disable the appropriate switches and use the starter + pushing in 1st gear to get the motor running as you take off. You then just plan as much as possible to not stop anymore. Yeah that. Starter motors are enough to move the engine, which is enough to move the drive, which is enough to move the vehicle. It's sometimes absurd to think about, but I've abused starter motors in this way more times than I care to admit. I've loaded a non-running motorcycle and a station wagon up ramps and into trailers using nothing but the starter. Beats the hell out of pushing.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:10
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ReelBigLizard posted:This is why I do my own oil changes. Every shop torques poo poo down way too hard. First time I did my own oil change I had to crack the drain bolt loose with a 36 inch breaker bar. The manual specifies (IIRC) 15nm xd posted:Yeah, same here. I try to do everything I possibly can myself. The shop I bought my bike from used an impact tool to put the steering head nut on my bike. Even with a breaker bar I couldn't budge it. I just took it over there and had them remove it and re-torque it to the correct 60 ft/lbs. Indeed, I usually do too, but it was in the shop for tires anyway so I had them do a few of the routine things because "why not?". Well next time I have a "why not?" eh. The only pipe I could find to use as a breaker bar is 6 feet long so it was a bit excessive, but it did mean that I didn't have to push too hard on the end of it. The filter was already covered in all my chain oil in addition to being cranked on something awful. I had to put a screwdriver thru it and turn it as far as I could 3 times before I could hand turn it. Some of the carnage. 
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Apr 23, 2013 18:31
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Impressive. I've never seen a two screwdriver job before. Screwdriver bros 4 life.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:34
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nsaP posted:Indeed, I usually do too, but it was in the shop for tires anyway so I had them do a few of the routine things because "why not?". Well next time I have a "why not?" eh. The only pipe I could find to use as a breaker bar is 6 feet long so it was a bit excessive, but it did mean that I didn't have to push too hard on the end of it. The filter was already covered in all my chain oil in addition to being cranked on something awful. I had to put a screwdriver thru it and turn it as far as I could 3 times before I could hand turn it. Some of the carnage. I tried this on my first, post-factory tightened, oil change on my Versys. The screwdriver just ripped through the filter. Managed to get it done with a filter wrench and a lot of swearing.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:13
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I was attempting to install some aftermarket levers on my 954 when I found that the clutch lever pivot bolt was pretty much seized up in there and my attempts to remove it either stripped the head or the slot for the flathead screwdriver, so I just said gently caress it and ordered a replacement perch from ebay that came in yesterday, Honda makes it a little more work in that you have to remove the grip and the switches to get the perch off. Using compressed air to remove the grip was magic, if I didn't know about it I probably would still be cursing and sweating getting the grip off but wedging the air gun in there and giving it pressure inflates it just enough to make it slide off easily, thankfully the previous owner didnt glue it in. And for whatever reason one of the previous owners put dirtbike style grips on it, so I'm changing those soon as well.  Almost there.  Done! 
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Apr 23, 2013 19:47
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High Protein posted:Are you gonna do it with or without dropping the engine? I replaced mine with the blue ones on this page http://www.jpcycles.com/harley-parts/james-gaskets/intake but honestly it didn't make that much of a difference; idle is still slow to drop from ~2000 rpm. Decreasing the idle speed supposedly helps but I don't want to go lower than 1050. I'll probably buy those James gaskets if I find an intake leak. That's the last thing I can check in an effort to work out the pinging that happens in certain situations, I've done everything else. If I don't find a leak then I most likely am going to reluctantly have a pair of O2 sensor bungs put in the header and tune it on a dyno to the tune of $300 that I'd rather spend on the trip. I think that slow drop is intentional though - helps the bike cruise along smoothly at low rpm. When I was running on the messed-up mapping that came on the bike, it dropped from 2k down to idle like a rock but the engine was also annoyingly jerky and snatchy below 3k.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:13
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Left it at the dealer to get new tires put on it.
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Apr 24, 2013 10:29
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Finally got it back on the road  Combination of waiting for parts, installing lockset, needing to get ECU reflashed (even after being told numerous times it wouldn't need doing) etc etc means I was off the road for 6+ weeks. Bike feels like a rocket, yey 
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Apr 24, 2013 11:15
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Fixed the one thing without which I would never normally dare to ride on London's roads - the horn. Slightly odd - it was working yesterday (when a cyclist dived out in front of me) but tonight (when a kid stopped in the middle of the road to answer his phone) it didn't and I hurt my throat as a result. Multimeter said that the horn was only receiving .3-.6 of a volt, with the voltage varying depending on how much pressure was on the button, so I guessed the button was the problem (and it was certainly the easiest thing to check). I opened up the control thingy (it's called a console in the manual, which seems a bit grandiose for something with 2 rocker switches and two buttons), and sure enough the contacts were furred over. Water seems to be able to get in through two small holes on the bottom of it, either side of something that looks a bit like a flash hotshoe underneath the "console", which I think might be for attaching the extra controls for the data logger on the RSV4, which shares controls with the Shiver. Anyway, blasted it with contact cleaner and it's now safe for me to return to the battlefield. Believe it or not (apart from battery issues which are pretty much self-inflicted) this is the very first electrical issue I've had on the bike in coming up to 4 years. Suck it, Triumphailures.
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Apr 25, 2013 19:24
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New kicks! I have fixed my Tire Problem! Previously:   Now:  And since this wouldn't be an M42 post without an amateur hour feature... Yesterday I grabbed a new front turn signal from a dude parting out his ninja, since mine wasn't working properly cause of that second day drop. I got connectors, hooked that poo poo up, and it was working perfectly. Yes!!! Today, I made a stop at a hardware store to get some kerosene for the chain...I put the sidestand down, slowly leaned the bike over, and it kept leaning. Until it fell and mashed up my brand new light.  It still works properly, it's just cracked.  Sometimes I wonder how I'm even able to breathe without choking on my own tongue.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:21
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