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kafkasgoldfish posted:Interesting, my experiments with that filament produced a much more matte finish: What temperature did you use for that piece?
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Apr 12, 2013 23:41
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techknight posted:What temperature did you use for that piece? Pretty sure it was 210. Although who knows if my 210 is the same as your 210. Even then, I've taken mine up to 220-230 and didn't see anything nearly as dark or glossy as yours.
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Apr 13, 2013 00:01
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Chickenbisket posted:I think if you just scrub the hobbed bolt with a good stiff brush and wipe it down with some acetone and a paper cloth you should be good on there. You might want to try adjusting the pressure on the filament as well. While the pressure being too low can cause the hobbed bolt to slip and grind into the plastic I've found that having it too tight can also case it to act a little funky. Thanks, this information was super useful and I was able to get my first successful print because of it. The three key things were: Scrub the hobbed bolt with acetone, an 80 C print bed, and then do the ABS plastic soup on the print bed.  edit: And my printer stopped working. Googling it, it looks like my power supply is bad, someone has the same problems here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2026/solidoodle-stopped-working/ Red light on printer, power light on PSU is very faded. Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Apr 15, 2013 |
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Apr 14, 2013 23:11
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New Zealand's Customs Minister says: people 3D printing piles of weed and stacks of ecstasy tablets will defeat our border protection strategies. http://www.radionz.co.nz/news/national/132626/3d-printers-a-border-security-threat-minister 
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Apr 18, 2013 02:30
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Sagebrush posted:New Zealand's Customs Minister says: people 3D printing piles of weed and stacks of ecstasy tablets will defeat our border protection strategies.
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Apr 18, 2013 03:10
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Anyone know some decent baseline Slic3r settings for printing a blunt? Mine keep coming out made of low resolution plastic. The MDMA pills printed out great but I'm not getting any kind of buzz.
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Apr 18, 2013 08:50
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You should ditch Slic3r it's way out of date. I find KISSlicer makes my blunts much smoother.
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Apr 18, 2013 09:08
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fondue posted:You can do that now? Hot drat, what can't you do with one of those makers? I'm going to print myself a lady! Don't laugh, we're almost there with those bone and tissue printers.
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Apr 18, 2013 13:25
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Young Freud posted:Don't laugh, we're almost there with those bone and tissue printers.
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Apr 18, 2013 13:48
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I've personally had more luck with genetic modification than 3D printing. You just need to splice stuff until you've got something like aphids carrying the THC and cannabinoids, and then screw with the prey collection and web-spinning structures of the "brain" in something like a garden spider to get them to spin joints out of the little guys (pro-tip: find a species where you can exploit its young-feeding preparations). Haven't tried doing an all-in one setup where its venom is replaced by THC though... and that whole meth-bee thing that the guy on reddit did, doesn't instill confidence in the prospect. Seriously though, I think that guy has the right idea, in terms of starting to figure this stuff out now... we would have laughed about the concept of kids and grandmas stealing theater-res hollywood movies back in the 28.8K modem days. He's still silly for thinking that it can be controlled like border protection though. 
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Apr 18, 2013 13:51
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Young Freud posted:Don't laugh, we're almost there with those bone and tissue printers. Not really
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Apr 18, 2013 15:56
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As usual, the only ones who understand something less than Hollywood/The News are the people making laws about it.
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Apr 18, 2013 16:06
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I've recently finished my (more or less) self-made 3d printer. Been having a good time printing doohickeys. What I'm wondering though - what slicing software do you guys find preferable? So far I have been using Slic3r, but I'm getting kind of tired with how it's almost impossible to see if my parts are correctly oriented.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:58
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I like Cura a lot, so try that if your machine can read the files it produces.
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Apr 18, 2013 22:18
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Astrolite posted:I've recently finished my (more or less) self-made 3d printer. Been having a good time printing doohickeys. What I'm wondering though - what slicing software do you guys find preferable? So far I have been using Slic3r, but I'm getting kind of tired with how it's almost impossible to see if my parts are correctly oriented. How do you mean correctly oriented? I use Slic3r, but not on its own, that would be terrible. Instead I use Repetier-Host: http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-host/ It handles loading .stl-files, scaling and orienting them, slicing them with Slic3r, inspecting the resulting G-code and then printing.
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Apr 18, 2013 23:32
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Astrolite posted:I've recently finished my (more or less) self-made 3d printer. Been having a good time printing doohickeys. What I'm wondering though - what slicing software do you guys find preferable? So far I have been using Slic3r, but I'm getting kind of tired with how it's almost impossible to see if my parts are correctly oriented. KISSlicer works well for some models and I tend to default to Cura for others. However, Cura is now being developed by the Ultimaker guys so I am not sure how well it will serve other printers.
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Apr 18, 2013 23:45
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Astrolite posted:I've recently finished my (more or less) self-made 3d printer. Been having a good time printing doohickeys. What I'm wondering though - what slicing software do you guys find preferable? So far I have been using Slic3r, but I'm getting kind of tired with how it's almost impossible to see if my parts are correctly oriented. Any details/pics? Just put my order in for a Rostock Max, can't wait for it to arrive! Been lurking their forums for the past few months, seems like these guys keep on updating/fixing little things bit by bit but it seems mature enough. Proceeds from selling my Oculus rift went straight to that, that thing was neat but I got so dizzy no matter how I calibrated it. I got sick alot in car rides as a kid, something wonky with my inner ear I guess.
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Apr 19, 2013 02:31
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Fatal posted:Any details/pics? I know John over at SeeMeCNC, and a couple of friends of mine have bought and assembled Rostock Max kits. They're great printers, but it takes a hell of a lot longer than they claim to put them together, there are a lot of fairly tedious steps, and calling the instructions "mediocre" would be generous. Have fun with it, once you get it dialed in, it should be a great printing platform for you! SeeMeCNC also sells Chinese PLA with some interesting properties. It's cheap, pretty, extrudes at a lower temperature than anything else I've seen (I extrude it at 165C), and sticks to the platform like glue.
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Apr 19, 2013 04:48
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That's what I've read too. I guess just this week they've started CNCing the arms post-injection so that's done now. Little things here and there (LCD controller included with adapter, Onyx included, etc), at least they're happy to constantly improve the design instead of letting it stagnate and then release V2 (which I'm sure will happen some time).
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Apr 19, 2013 06:32
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Super excited. Just got my Reprappro tricolor Mendel up (only single color built thus far, other two hot ends and extrusion gears will be built soon...) and working after a ~2 week build (a few hours each night after work) and ran my first prints this afternoon. I was surprised that the only thing I got wrong out of the whole build process was the polarity of the LED on the heated bed (I couldn't find indications on the circuitboard to indicate orientation). After wiring it all up this morning, everything worked perfectly apart from the heated end which I disassembled and reassembled which fixed whatever filament feed problem I was having. First print was the frame vertex recommended by the build guide and that came out pretty well apart from my extruder gear needing to be tightened because it wasn't feeding properly towards the end of the print. Looks like now I need to dial-in z-axis height a bit and see what else I can optimize. I've done all testing with the pronterface software, but I've seen folks talking about using other software to drive their printers and would be curious to know what everyone recommends.  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr  Reprappro tricolor Mendel build by Senior Kabong, on Flickr I've got a video of the first print here too: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kabong/8664190432/in/set-72157633284730332/ \m/ o.O \m/ Kabong fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 22:00
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I saw something called the RigidBot on Kickstarter, and it looked pretty nice: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1650950769/rigidbot-3d-printer?ref=live For roughly the same price as a Printrbot, you could get a machine with a steel frame and an LCD control panel. If they reach $1 million, they'll even throw in a heated bed. Any thoughts on that? I was thinking that when I finally decide to get a 3D printer, that would be an awesome choice for what I intend to do with it.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:16
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Their demo prints, the ones that are supposed to be the paragon of quality, look like poo poo. I don't know if its the machine or the tuning, but ... yeah. Go with a Mendel90 
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Apr 23, 2013 23:08
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I've got a prusa 2 that I've been contemplating upgrading for a while. Can't decide on Mendel90 or prusa i3. Anyone care to share some opinions on how the two compare?
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Apr 23, 2013 23:22
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Nophead is a smart guy and I like his designs, more than the Prusas. 
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Apr 23, 2013 23:39
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Why is a heated bed important?
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Apr 24, 2013 00:35
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fondue posted:Why is a heated bed important? It keeps prints from warping. It's more of a problem with ABS prints, although I've got warping on PLA. I was right, it was uneven cooling. The fan wouldn't go over those sections and the temperature difference caused warps. After I added a "tower" on the edges, it stopped warping on the main print area.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:45
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The new power supply for my 3D printer arrived today. I've been trying to print, and now I'm having trouble with the plastic getting stuck on the spool. I was even able to make it over 50 layers into a 63 layer print, and it still eventually got stuck. Any tips for keeping my spool in a position that it can feed the printer easily?
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Apr 24, 2013 08:22
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I feel like I'm really close to getting this Mendel working decently, but no cigar quite yet. My biggest problem right now seems to be what I can only describe as z-axis binding/drift over time. I printed some calibration parts and all of my x and y measurements are spot on and my z are usually good as well. The problem I have is that over time it seems to start dragging the nozzle through the part as it prints. This is visible here where I was testing repetier-host and slic3r (left) vs pronterface (right) [the bottom/legs of the repetier-host/slic3r print looking like crap against the pronterface print is a whole other thing I'll have to monkey with...] : Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr The pronterface print was looking great until it got to the top of the legs, then it promptly started dragging the nozzle through the body. Here are a few things I've been able to print successfully: Calibration parts  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr x-axis endstop  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr frame vertex (bottom was first print, extruder gear wasn't tightened, fixed it on print above)  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr mount for cooling fan (hoping this might help with PLA cooling?)  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr To try and address the z-axis binding issue, I took each smooth rod out of the x-axis one at a time, popped out the grey collars/inserts and sanded down the inside to give more clearance for the collars/inserts to slide on the smooth rods. That doesn't seem to have fixed my issue, so I'm still testing things... I'm also going to try printing the 50mm tower tomorrow to see if I can confirm whether or not the z-axis/dragging nozzle through print mostly occurs as the print heights increase or not. Chainclaw posted:The new power supply for my 3D printer arrived today. I've been trying to print, and now I'm having trouble with the plastic getting stuck on the spool. I was even able to make it over 50 layers into a 63 layer print, and it still eventually got stuck. Any tips for keeping my spool in a position that it can feed the printer easily? I'm also curious to know what everyone is using to manage their spools as well. I'm currently planning to build one of these (just waiting for the ball bearings to arrive): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21446
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Apr 25, 2013 05:38
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Most the filament I buy comes without a spool so I printed up a few spools I found on Thingiverse. They came out alright but they didn't have any kind of mount that suited my needs so I just threw together a spindle for them to revolve around and a small lockring that would keep it from falling off and printed that too. Has been working great for several lbs of plastic. Haven't had any tangles or feed problems since. 
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Apr 25, 2013 09:43
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Good news, I'm pretty sure that I found my problem: heat. I always notice that my prints are warm (or hot) to the touch when I take them off the bed, while prints that I would take off the makerbot replicator 2 at work would be cool to the touch immediately when printing was completed. I also remembered reading posts about how active cooling could increase the quality of small parts, so I hauled a big fan in front of my Mendel and did a test of cooling on vs. cooling off (.25 layer height, 205 degree hot end, 60 degree bed). The results are pretty obvious:  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr The part on the right printed perfectly at 50mm and is of a quality that I'm quite happy with! I'm kind of surprised that active cooling isn't standard equipment, or at least that there isn't some size 40 font part of the build instructions that mention this. Next step isto install a 40mm fan (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:75078) and see how that goes. Assuming this print quality holds up, which I'm hopeful that it will, my last thing to figure out is how to manage spools. I'm currently planning to build one of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21446. I'm quite open to suggestions if anyone has a more elegant solution. edit: Finally able to print a decent quality robot, victory!  Untitled by Senior Kabong, on Flickr Kabong fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 01:16
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Something I've found as a stop gap between having active cooling, is that there's usually a setting where you can set a minimum amount of time to spend on each layer. This lets the part air cool, which I've found helps on smaller parts, although an actual fan would probably be better. I'll probably add a fan to my printer eventually, but in the mean time I've tried just messing with software settings, so this works in the mean time.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:06
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poo poo with a 3D printer you could print a custom fan shroud that would cool exactly what you wanted with no inadvertently cooled parts (like the bed during starting). My mind is loving blown I need to build one
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Apr 26, 2013 02:12
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The Solidoodle comes with a spool holder. It seems like it wants to be horizontal, but gravity pulls it down so I'm having it stay vertical (picture also includes my amazing cardboard enclosure) Aside from my issues, I have gotten a bunch of cool prints out (SD card included for size scale) 
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Apr 26, 2013 06:52
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I have a bunch of flashcarts for my consoles, one of which is already 3D printed (my FlashBoy Plus). I just bought a Turbo Everdrive and want to 3D print a nice case for it (which several people have done before), and also difficult because HuCard/SegaCards are really thin and tiny!   And the Turbo Everdrive:  I also saw these that someone posted on the ASSEMBLERgames forum, but you need to log in there to see pics so just in case I re uploaded them: http://imgur.com/u0KA76E,IkBnw5v,BQLGgxl http://imgur.com/Xae3xWx,L88RR5N If anyone's interested in doing something like this, hit me up! I'm trying to learn 3D poo poo better, even though I don't have access to a printer of my own, so I'd like to (at least try to) design it myself in CAD. I'd be happy to just get one for my own cart, but I'd also be really interested in getting between 10 and 20 so I could resell a few and send some to other goons with Turbo Everdrives. AFAIK the only guy who makes them on ASSEMBLERgames does them at his own leisure and is based somewhere in the Europes.
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Apr 26, 2013 18:26
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We had some clear plastic and clear rubber loaded into the Objet 500 at work the other day, so I made a new set of plugs:
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Apr 26, 2013 18:42
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 Wanna sell me some of those?
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Apr 27, 2013 17:26
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peepsalot posted:I've got a prusa 2 that I've been contemplating upgrading for a while. Can't decide on Mendel90 or prusa i3. Anyone care to share some opinions on how the two compare? I've been thinking about updating my prusa 2 as well, does anyone have any experience with the prusa i3?
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Apr 28, 2013 05:04
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So, solidoodle owners, would you recommend it?
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Apr 28, 2013 15:46
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My B9 Creator ships out in the next few days!  I can't waiiiiiiit
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Apr 28, 2013 16:41
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ACID POLICE posted:
I'm afraid we've switched back to white plastic and black rubber in the Objet 500, so no more clear ones for now.  If anyone's in Toronto, we're doing another Toronto 3D Printers meetup at Site 3 tonight. We may even have a chocolate-printing RepRap on display!
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Apr 29, 2013 17:46
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